[Version 2 Release] RaspberryPints - Digital Taplist Solution

[RandR+]

So in the Taps settings I have this? Do these settings look ok?

Those setting look good. I would use 3,4,5,6

There is no calibration for the count per liter you just need to put in a value pour and see what you get then repeat until it is right. start with 7000 and go from there

No you don't need to change anything in the Hardware I/O its just for display so you can see what you have plugged in.

 

[RandR+]

No, my previous version had two columns of 4 each. I ran the tap numbers across the bottom and it correlated with the handles

Ah, the tap number across the bottom can be done in the index.php the two columns needs to be down in /includes/beerListTable.php

Its something I do want to do to save space just haven't got to it yet

 

[LBussy]

Because I'm tired of hunting for links, I have created two redirects for these projects.

To install:

curl -L install.rpints.com | sudo bash

(Redirected to @RandR+ 's install script which allows you to choose between his and Tobor's version.)
For support:

https://support.rpints.com

(redirects to this thread.)

 

[5SonsBrewing]

It took me quite a while (few days after work) to figure out how to get RaspberryPints on Jessie on a RPi 3B and get the latest BJCP 2015 list and correct the font for the umlauts with Kolsch etc, and then I came across this thread and decided to load NOOBS v3_2_1 onto a reformatted SD Card and install full Raspbian (latest). I then ran RandR+ interactive install script installing RandR+'s version of Rpints (no flow meters yet). PHENOMENAL job @RandR+ and whoever else was involved in this. This is EXACTLY what I was looking for.

 

[troyp42]

Those setting look good. I would use 3,4,5,6

There is no calibration for the count per liter you just need to put in a value pour and see what you get then repeat until it is right. start with 7000 and go from there

No you don't need to change anything in the Hardware I/O its just for display so you can see what you have plugged in.

Cheers mate, thanks for the help.

So when adding a temp probe do I connect the probe to the PI or the Uno and which pin should the signal wire go to? And do I use the 4.7k ohm pull up resistor?

 

[troyp42]

Hi guys, So with regards to flow meter placement Im using a fridge freezer as my kegerator and was going to mount my flow meters against the front of the compressor hump. Its on a 45 degree angle and my 2 front kegs sit forward of this however the line length from the keg to the flow meter would be almost 3 feet by the time I route the lines neatly. Is this too long? From what I have read we want the flow meters less than a foot from the kegs. Is this correct?

 

[day_trippr]

I recommend locating the flow meter as close to the keg Out post as possible. A few folks have tried putting them near the faucet end and had lots of pour quality issues.

If you zoom into this shot you can see I have about as little beer line in front of the meter as possible while keeping everything pretty much inside the keg rubbers. Note I'm using 4mm ID EVAbarrier tubing, 6 foot lengths for most of the runs (my Saison is on a 9' run) and there isn't much more than a loop of extra line and still make it from keg up the tower to the beer shanks...

[Note this was taken at the end of a long day of converting my keezer over to the EVAbarrier tubing so you'll likely see bubbles in the beer lines as everything by then was quite warm]

Cheers!

 

[LBussy]

And this is the perfect time to share the best ... the ONLY beer line length calculator to use:

https://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/

 

[troyp42]

I recommend locating the flow meter as close to the keg Out post as possible. A few folks have tried putting them near the faucet end and had lots of pour quality issues.

Cheers!

So youve had no problems with having ýour flow meters just sitting loose on top of the kegs? I was going to maybe mount them to the side of the fridge but the line length would still be around 1-1.5 foot long. Ive just recently switched to 4mm ID EVABarrier lines as well. (You gotta love the tap shank to push in fittings) and am running one at 3 metres and another at 1.5 metres to see which is the best line length. Will try the third one at 2 metres (6 foot) then decide which works the best and modify the other 2..

Cheers mate.

 

[day_trippr]

Aside from attaching them to the lid liner there isn't anything close to a hard point inside a collar-less keezer
Anyway, zero issues having them nested atop the kegs.

Yes indeed, converting almost every beer and gas line connection in my humble brewery to push-to-connects was an epiphany in coolness.
A pricey one, but worth it, imo...

Cheers!

 

[troyp42]

Aside from attaching them to the lid liner there isn't anything close to a hard point inside a collar-less keezer
Anyway, zero issues having them nested atop the kegs.

Yes indeed, converting almost every beer and gas line connection in my humble brewery to push-to-connects was an epiphany in coolness.
A pricey one, but worth it, imo...

Cheers!

Im not using a keezer, Im using a fridge/freezer. But will keep them loose to start with and see how I go. If they get in my way I might be able to mount them to each side of the fridge wall. Its not as far from the kegs as I first thought.

 

[day_trippr]

I believe once you've lived with a bunch of kegs in a compartment and swapped a few in and out you'll find having the meters nested atop each keg will be easier to handle than the alternatives. In spite of what may appear to be chaos I can swap kegs in a couple of minutes...

Cheers!

 

[ba-brewer]

I have a box of snakes with a coil over the serving kegs. A short section between the disconnect and meter works well for me. Some day I will make it more organized but it is manageable as is.

@troyp42 it looks like you have a kegland's mini keg in your setup. How is that working for you?
I have a couple small ones and the beer always seems to get oxidized. Only a couple time did that not happen. Beers were carbed and conditioned in the keg for a total of 4 to 6 weeks. I now know what they mean by cardboard taste.

 

[troyp42]

I have a box of snakes with a coil over the serving kegs. A short section between the disconnect and meter works well for me. Some day I will make it more organized but it is manageable as is.

@troyp42 it looks like you have a kegland's mini keg in your setup. How is that working for you?
I have a couple small ones and the beer always seems to get oxidized. Only a couple time did that not happen. Beers were carbed and conditioned in the keg for a total of 4 to 6 weeks. I now know what they mean by cardboard taste.

I got it from Small batch brewing not Kegland (Even though I live about 15 mins from both Kegland and KegKing who are both in Springvale in the South east suburbs of Melbourne) But yeah same thing Kegland sell. I havent noticed any oxidation but have to admit I usually go through the beer in that keg in a week or so. I actually have another 2 full sized corny kegs and use that small 5 litre and the 9 litre as extra kegs when Im out of kegs. I suppose if I filled it with a NEIPA I might notice some oxidation?

 

[day_trippr]

Yeah, if there's one style that is most susceptible to O2 degradation it's clearly the New England style IPA.
But...if one is totally OC about post-fermentation exposure, a respectable shelf life can be achieved...

Cheers!

 

[ba-brewer]

I got it from Small batch brewing not Kegland (Even though I live about 15 mins from both Kegland and KegKing who are both in Springvale in the South east suburbs of Melbourne) But yeah same thing Kegland sell. I havent noticed any oxidation but have to admit I usually go through the beer in that keg in a week or so. I actually have another 2 full sized corny kegs and use that small 5 litre and the 9 litre as extra kegs when Im out of kegs. I suppose if I filled it with a NEIPA I might notice some oxidation?

Thanks. The HBS I got them from said no one else has had an issue but also thought most people only use them for short term storage. They were non-NEIPA beers by the way.

 

[troyp42]

Yeah, if there's one style that is most susceptible to O2 degradation it's clearly the New England style IPA.
But...if one is totally OC about post-fermentation exposure, a respectable shelf life can be achieved...

Cheers!

1st NEIPA I did, I fermented in my SS Brewtech chronical and dry hopped via my O2 free dry hopper device. I purged my keg with Co2 from fermentation and was very happy with myself. Then transferred and forgot to purge the O2 in the transfer hose. It was great for 2 weeks then turned to brown....

 

[troyp42]

Thanks. The HBS I got them from said no one else has had an issue but also thought most people only use them for short term storage. They were non-NEIPA beers by the way.

I wonder what it is that causes them to oxidise the beer then?

 

[day_trippr]

1st NEIPA I did, I fermented in my SS Brewtech chronical and dry hopped via my O2 free dry hopper device. I purged my keg with Co2 from fermentation and was very happy with myself. Then transferred and forgot to purge the O2 in the transfer hose. It was great for 2 weeks then turned to brown....

Crazy, right? It's like brewing a grenade - one mistake and KABOOM! Game ovah!
I was sloppy on my first one and watched the result. Now I'm crazy anal about post-fermentation O2 exposure, and actually had a batch of Orange Julius go from the end of June to December and this was the last pour:

For reference, this shot is from a different, MUCH younger keg of the same recipe:

Not much difference there...

Cheers!

 

[ba-brewer]

I wonder what it is that causes them to oxidise the beer then?

Not sure. One thought was with a smaller volume of beer a little oxygen is more significant. I wonder about the o-ring seal too, the top and keg go metal to metal.

 

[troyp42]

Crazy, right? It's like brewing a grenade - one mistake and KABOOM! Game ovah!
I was sloppy on my first one and watched the result. Now I'm crazy anal about post-fermentation O2 exposure, and actually had a batch of Orange Julius go from the end of June to December and this was the last pour:


View attachment 662295


For reference, this shot is from a different, MUCH younger keg of the same recipe:

View attachment 662296

Not much difference there...

Cheers!

Looks like that one aged well. Only a slight darkening.

 

[troyp42]

Cheers mate, thanks for the help.

So when adding a temp probe do I connect the probe to the PI or the Uno and which pin should the signal wire go to? And do I use the 4.7k ohm pull up resistor?

Bump.... Can someone help us out with his one please? Do I plug into the Uno and just use any GPIO? Im using 3,4,5,6 for my flow meters so can I use 7 for the temp probe?

 

[day_trippr]

I believe @RandR+ incorporated some part of my ds18b20 temperature logger program, which is a Python script that runs on the host RPi, and uses GPIO4 (GPIO header pin 7) for the One-Wire data connection. The probes should connect to RPi 3.3V and GND pins as well.

Give that a try and see what happens...

Cheers!

 

[troyp42]

I believe @RandR+ incorporated some part of my ds18b20 temperature logger program, which is a Python script that runs on the host RPi, and uses GPIO4 (GPIO header pin 7) for the One-Wire data connection. The probes should connect to RPi 3.3V and GND pins as well.

Give that a try and see what happens...

Cheers!

Thanks mate, will try that.

 

[day_trippr]

Don't forget the 4.7K pull-up to 3.3V (I should have mentioned that)...

Cheers!

 

[troyp42]

Thanks mate, will try that.

Don't forget the 4.7K pull-up to 3.3V (I should have mentioned that)...

Cheers!

Yeah actually I did forget that..lol. Will try again. Is it supposed to connect to the Pi or the Uno?

 

[troyp42]

Don't forget the 4.7K pull-up to 3.3V (I should have mentioned that)...

Cheers!

Ok it didnt work. Im connecting it to the UNO. I will try connecting it to the Pi instead.

 

[day_trippr]

lol - yes, this all happens on the RaspberryPi, if it's anything like my code

Cheers!

 

[troyp42]

lol - yes, this all happens on the RaspberryPi, if it's anything like my code

Cheers!

Cheers mate all working now. Do you know why the right hand side gets cut off on my IMAC screen. (But its fine on the LCD Screen I'm using on my kegerator?)

Also how do you get the temp to refresh on the screen? It doesnt seem to change unless I manually do an ALT+F5 refresh? And can the bulb icon be changed as it shows very little red when at 24C like in the pic and no red at all when my fridge is at 5C.

 

[RandR+]

Do you know why the right hand side gets cut off on my IMAC screen. (But its fine on the LCD Screen I'm using on my kegerator?)

Also how do you get the temp to refresh on the screen? It doesnt seem to change unless I manually do an ALT+F5 refresh? And can the bulb icon be changed as it shows very little red when at 24C like in the pic and no red at all when my fridge is at 5C.

The cut off is probably because of the way the css is handled on each one. You can try to change style.css line 120
from
.bodywrapper
{
width: 101%;
height: 99%;
overflow: auto;
}
to
.bodywrapper
{
width: 100%;
height: 99%;
overflow: auto;
}

modify index.php line 191
from
<div class="temp-full" style="height:<?php echo $temp; ?>%; padding-right: 50px"></div>
to
<div class="temp-full" style="height:<?php echo $temp*5; ?>%; padding-right: 50px"></div>

you may need to change the new 5 till it looks right on your display