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Using hop socks/bags

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In fact, I may use that tea cage to strain with. Mine is spherical, and opens to create two halves. When open, I could run my wort through it on its way to the funnel/screen that I usually use. I'd still be straining but maybe not as many clogs? Gonna need a few more arms, too...
 
I brew with leaf hops and don't use a bag.

Once the wort is chilled I'll use my autosiphon to transfer to the fermenter. This works fine for a while, but eventually the level of wort in the kettle drops enough that the hops start to impede the siphon. At that point I take a sanitized SS colander/strainer and push that down into the hops, then siphon from inside the strainer. That allows me to get a bunch more debris-free wort. I already had the strainer so it was a no-cost solution that works for me.


Recently, a friend and I brewed a Pliny The Elder clone, and had to use a mix of leaf and pellet hops. We used his hop bag and collar since the quantity of hops is simply massive and we didn't want it soaking up all our wort. Here is a pic just before flameout:

hopcollar.jpg


We had just added some of those pellets, but obviously the utilization suffered because the bag restricted the flow. Of course, this bag was crammed as full as could be! If you're going to use a hop bag, make sure you have plenty of room to help your utilization.
 
I use a Hop bag with no apparent issues. It would seem to me that this is a purely objective view unless someone had a way to measure IBU's. Then a controlled sample could be made with and without the bag and compared.

I reuse my nylon hop bag about 5 to 8 times before I toss it out. It constantly gets darker as it goes along. I could make the leap and say that this is a direct result of the hops staining the bag and therefore there is an evident loss of something. It is my speculation that this is merely chlorophyll and nothing more. Before you ask, I have tasted the bag and it is not bitter. During the boil process I use my spoon to stir inside the hop bag just to keep things in motion. Personally I like not having all that debris in the bottom of the kettle. That way I don't have to wait the 20 min for the whirlpool effect. Once the IC has cooled the wort, transfer and pitch the yeast. Efficiency at its finest!
My two cents
Preston
 
count barleywine said:
Now that I see how the hops act in the wort whilst boiling naked, I think they are better off.

HHMMM, interesting;
When the weather gets a bit warmer around here, I'll have to try boiling my wort while naked and see if it helps any.
 
drayman86 said:
P.S. The guy in the video sounds like the dude from Basic Brewing Radio.
Revvy said:
This guy lives in Michigan and supposedly works in radio....He sounds familiar, I'm sure I've heard his voice on radio stations here...Just can't place him...

His vids are great!


His name is Kevin Profitt and he is on 98FM KCQ.

http://www.98fmkcq.com/qcrew/kevin.shtml

I thought I recognized his voice and went searching on Google.
 
Here's the manifold we use in our boil kettle:

DSC00005.jpg



Here's the manifold in the bottom of the boil kettle:

DSC00007.jpg



Here's the stuff at the bottom of the kettle post-boil. Does a great job of filtering trub, and leaves very little wort behind:

DSC00013.jpg
 
I found by making a knot at the very end of the sock allows the hop pellets to expand and steep much more.

If the sock is too tight against the pellets or plugs it will not be given enough room to open up.

Make the knot as close to the end of the sock as you can. Works for me, and 100 times easier to move.
 

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