US-05 as bottling yeast in long cold-conditioned IPA

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Gadjobrinus

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Very turbid IPA I'm giving at least a few weeks at 33 to clear. Used a bad vial of isinglass (my fault) and repitched a fresh vial, and I can tell if this is going to clear, it's going to take quite awhile. I've never pushed a cold-conditioned beer out this long for natural conditioning and figured I'd try a bottle-condition yeast addition, since I've never done that. US-05. However, it will be pitched into a finished beer at bottling no warmer than likely 40F. I understand the benefit of rehydrating but am curious on this particular cold-beer application. Thoughts?
 
Kaboom.

I mean, if you used a yeast other than US-05 for the original fermentation, then Kaboom, your bottles will either gush or explode. Reason: US-05 is a highly attenuative yeast, much higher than most other ale yeasts. Tell me your original yeast and I'll be able to predict even better what will happen.
 
Kaboom.

I mean, if you used a yeast other than US-05 for the original fermentation, then Kaboom, your bottles will either gush or explode. Reason: US-05 is a highly attenuative yeast, much higher than most other ale yeasts. Tell me your original yeast and I'll be able to predict even better what will happen.
Whoa - I'd thought it's just a good, clean neutral, yeast you could use as a bottler. Thanks for the heads-up. I see it attenuates 78-82%, yes, higher than I would have expected. The beer yeast is Wyeast 1098. I thought just now maybe Lallemand Notty, but that, too, is higher.

I'm thinking CBC-1, or Saf-Ale F-2?
 
Anecdotal 1: I'm working through a package of CBC-1 (dated 7/23) that I opened last fall. Still carbonating beer in a couple of days at 75F (yes, conditioning takes more time).

Anecdotal 2: I also working through a package of EC-1118 that I opened late last year. Working fine as well.

aside: I'm not noticing differences between EC-1118 and CBC-1 in hop forward styles. (with small batches, I'll dose individual bottles, so I have been doing 'split bottle conditioning' tests).

Open package storage: I keep the open sachets cool (fridge at 42F) and dry. When done bottling, I close the package tightly, secure with a rubber band. If a partial package gets in contact with water / beer, I will (and have) dumped partial sachets.
 
Anecdotal 1: I'm working through a package of CBC-1 (dated 7/23) that I opened last fall. Still carbonating beer in a couple of days at 75F (yes, conditioning takes more time).

Anecdotal 2: I also working through a package of EC-1118 that I opened late last year. Working fine as well.

aside: I'm not noticing differences between EC-1118 and CBC-1 in hop forward styles. (with small batches, I'll dose individual bottles, so I have been doing 'split bottle conditioning' tests).

Open package storage: I keep the open sachets cool (fridge at 42F) and dry. When done bottling, I close the package tightly, secure with a rubber band. If a partial package gets in contact with water / beer, I will (and have) dumped partial sachets.
Thanks, for this. I am often nervous about using opened packs. How long have you kept them after opening and used with success?
 
Thanks, for this. I am often nervous about using opened packs. How long have you kept them after opening and used with success?
Roughly 3 months for the EC-1118 sachet & six months for the 'best by 7/23' CBC-1 sachet.

I have a lot of prior experience with open sachets: when I was doing "true" one gallon batches, I would pitch ~ 2.5 g from a sachet - so I would often have US-05, S-04, or Nottingham sachets open for two or three months.
 
Anecdotal 1: I'm working through a package of CBC-1 (dated 7/23) that I opened last fall. Still carbonating beer in a couple of days at 75F (yes, conditioning takes more time).

Anecdotal 2: I also working through a package of EC-1118 that I opened late last year. Working fine as well.

aside: I'm not noticing differences between EC-1118 and CBC-1 in hop forward styles. (with small batches, I'll dose individual bottles, so I have been doing 'split bottle conditioning' tests).

Open package storage: I keep the open sachets cool (fridge at 42F) and dry. When done bottling, I close the package tightly, secure with a rubber band. If a partial package gets in contact with water / beer, I will (and have) dumped partial sachets.
How do you add the yeast to the beer before bottling? I usually dose individual bottles with sugar then fill and cap.

I had my first experience with an imperial porter/brown ale that didn’t carbonate. It was fermented with Nottingham and stayed in the fermenter for several weeks. Notty flocks hard and solid. After 3.5 months with no carbonation I uncapped the bottles, added a few drops of 34/70 slurry and recapped. I would like to do something a little more predictable next time.
 
Thanks, for this. I am often nervous about using opened packs. How long have you kept them after opening and used with success?
If you freeze them after opening, it's almost like they've never been opened. They will store for years (tried it) without detectable vitality loss.

My unopened ones are stored in the fridge and the opened ones go into the freezer.
 
How do you add the yeast to the beer before bottling? I usually dose individual bottles with sugar then fill and cap.
For the bottle conditioning yeast (and ascorbic acid), I use mini measuring teaspoons: a 'smidgen' for yeast, a 'drop' for ascorbic acid. A mini cupcake liner works well for holding the ingredients while measuring.

eta: I brew/bottle 2.5 gal batches (or less); and I don't mind the repetition.
 
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