Unboxing the Nano from CO Brewing

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2) It didn't dawn on me until the mash was over to check the temp of the actual mash bed. I wanted a temp of 153, and that's what I set on the PID. Unfortunately, the mash bed in the basket was only 149 at the end of my 60 minutes. Sounds like I'm going to have a drier beer than intended. That aside, it makes sense now that I think about it. The element is on the bottom, as is the temp probe. I've got 153 degree water on the bottom, which I suck out via the pump, where it loses a few degrees moving through the hoses/pump, and likely returned to the top well below my intended mash temp. :-( Doh!! Something I'm going to spend a bit more time evaluating and experimenting during my next batch to make sure the mash is at the right temp and not rely on the PID temp.

What I've done for this on my similar system is to measure the difference between the kettle temp and the PID temp in a few batches, then adjust the PIDs temperature like I was calibrating it (it's deep in the settings in mine) to the average gap, in my case that was -3 degrees.

This way it's always pushing a bit hotter water than needed back into the kettle and after this I find the grain bed dials in within a degree of what I wanted it to be, with me just being able to tell the PID to hold it at what I want.
 
Mashed in a Marzen this morning. New pump working fine. 11 pounds of grain 10.8 gallons of water for a 6 gallon batch. pump on full.

13707786_602326689927703_5190239984043839471_n.jpg
 
Mashed in a Marzen this morning. New pump working fine. 11 pounds of grain 10.8 gallons of water for a 6 gallon batch. pump on full.


Looking good man! I have 11 gallons of grapefruit sculpin clone ready to keg that plays 5 of a blackberry sour and 5 of a breakfast stout I'm set for awhile
 
A couple of notes about yesterdays brew session. Its been discussed here about placement of the temps sensor and a difference in the grain bed temp. Yesterday I watched this pretty close. What I found was when the temp reached its desired temp the water in the bed was not at that temp BUT did eventually reach that temp. I stirred it up a couple of times and this helped speed that process. I think no matter what theres gonna be some "lag" . I had my pump on full and it was circulating like crazy but that grain is heavy and locked together to shwile the recirc helps for sure a good stiir or two once you reach desired temp is definitely in order. I was doing some step mashing so it was more prevalent. I tihkn in future if I have one mash temp I will set the temp. Wait for it to get to it then give the bed a good stir or two check temp and maybe do another stir in a minute or two. then you should be good I would think. Yesterday I did a 6 gallon batch for 5 gallons and this was my first time doing that. Everyting worked great BUT my boil off was definitely "off" as I had over 7 gallons when the boil was done. When I did my ten gallon batch it was accurate. I usually don't mind it being off a bit but a gallon and an half had a big effect on my OG. I could have continued to boil off but didn't have time. I also noticed ALOT more grain in my boil pot than last time. Ill put that off to the stirring I did but I may adjust my crush at .047 or something to see of that helps. Efficiency wise the .045 crush I'm using now is plenty high so maybe ill fiddle and try and find a good mix for that. CLEANING...I HAVE to find a method. Terribly laborious right now but I think I'm dialing that in as well. Theres just a lot more "parts" with this thing and I am someone who isn't gonna just run some PBW through it and call it a day. One final note when it was time for cooldown my hydra IC was about 1/2 in the wort BUT it still cooled it down rapidly.
 
I thought id share this photo of how I am running my recirc during cooldown. I haven't had much luck trying to attach the recirc arm to the sid eof the tun so I attach it here on my hop sider during cooldown. Boil to 72 in about 10 minutes today with water temp at 72.

13709892_602399213253784_2080795892020619777_n.jpg
 
I bought this system to save time on cleaning...coming from a Kal clone Herms with threaded everything 2 pumps and a CFC. Now with 1 vessel 1 basket and immersion chiller vs 3 vessels 1 false bottom and tons of threaded parts that get broken down I'm estimating saving an hour+on cleanup. I guess if you came from propane biab the cleanup is greater with this system but I'm pumped about half of the equipment to clean them my old setup.
 
I bought this system to save time on cleaning...coming from a Kal clone Herms with threaded everything 2 pumps and a CFC. Now with 1 vessel 1 basket and immersion chiller vs 3 vessels 1 false bottom and tons of threaded parts that get broken down I'm estimating saving an hour+on cleanup. I guess if you came from propane biab the cleanup is greater with this system but I'm pumped about half of the equipment to clean them my old setup.

I'm coming out of traditional sparge and ya I had that cleaning process down to the second. The thing about trad sparge is you can clean things during the boil etc so when its done you just have the pot and pump and hop spider and spoon to clean. That takes like 10 minutes. Like I said I just have to develop the method and I think it will be fine. Its just driving me nuts so far. I mean I can brew a lot faster then eat that time up cleaning stuff. it doesn't hep that I spilled 2 gallons of PBW water all over the floor last time..LOL
 
So funny story I have to share:

I ordered a whirlpool arm to replace the sightglass, since that's useless for me back on June 24th. I kind of forgot about it until another package arrived a couple weeks later. I thought I'd give them another week and then send an email. I wasn't in a big hurry so it wasn't a big deal. Tim, gets back to me pretty quickly with this:

Sorry for the delay, I had it listed as shipped on our paperwork but the tracking showed it never went out, so I did some checking, it looks like the package got knocked off the shipping table and was hiding behind a big roll of bubble wrap. I am sending this priority for you. You should have it in hand on Monday.


I just had to laugh. I had that happen to me once and it took me months to figure out that I had dropped the envelope behind the couch. He got back to me faster than I expected and the package arrived within days. I can't say enough good things about this company and I'll be upgrading to a much larger system from them.

I've had to slow down on the brewing since I got this system. It's making things too easy.
 
Hey, how much hose do you need to get this running? And what kind, 1/2" ID?

Id say that really depends on your configuration and needs. I am using no more than 4 feet Id say. I figured the shorter the better. Mine is 1/2 inch as I recall but either will work I suspect in silicon like im using. When I need to pump to a drain though I have to put on a different hose that is 6 ft long.
 
I got my yesterday, like you guys my box was basically destroyed but the equipment was all in good shape. Missing a couple things and seriously not happy about the pump switch. They were still supposed to include a chugger when I bought mine. I did a water test and needed the pump to pump the water out last night, it leaked all over the place. Have an email in to Tim, hopefully he takes care of this.
 
I got my yesterday, like you guys my box was basically destroyed but the equipment was all in good shape. Missing a couple things and seriously not happy about the pump switch. They were still supposed to include a chugger when I bought mine. I did a water test and needed the pump to pump the water out last night, it leaked all over the place. Have an email in to Tim, hopefully he takes care of this.

the pump was leaking? From the welds? I'm sure they will take care of it. Ive had a few WTF's but Tim and others have always been responsive and eager to make things right etc
 
the pump was leaking? From the welds? I'm sure they will take care of it. Ive had a few WTF's but Tim and others have always been responsive and eager to make things right etc

It leaked out where the plastic top part met the steel bottom of the pump. I'm going to guess there's not a gasket there and should be. I ordered a chugger today so hopefully I can just get a refund on the pump.
 
It leaked out where the plastic top part met the steel bottom of the pump. I'm going to guess there's not a gasket there and should be. I ordered a chugger today so hopefully I can just get a refund on the pump.

Yikes.. I have said that if I didn't have a chugger already I would have requested the refund as well so I get that. I did use the one they sent last weekend and it worked quite well with no problems and I sure liked having it attached direct to the pot so I knew priming wasn't an issue. Flow rate was fine etc. Time will tell with it.
 
Yikes.. I have said that if I didn't have a chugger already I would have requested the refund as well so I get that. I did use the one they sent last weekend and it worked quite well with no problems and I sure liked having it attached direct to the pot so I knew priming wasn't an issue. Flow rate was fine etc. Time will tell with it.

Sounds like they take them apart to weld the triclovers on and maybe the gasket didn't get put back in right. Either way Tim is taking care of it. Couldn't ask to deal with a better guy.
 
https://youtu.be/pNvTdaA2gl0

Little video unboxing and water testing.[/QUOTE

Interesting, yours is definitely some different than mine. the cord on my element as an example is plenty long to adjust it anywhere on the frame. You have a different key switch (doubt that matters really). Did you ask for the whirlpool fitting? I really find the recirc arm actually whirpools pretty well and if you have the whirlpool fitting there where does the site glass go? Maybe Im missing something.
 
https://youtu.be/pNvTdaA2gl0

Little video unboxing and water testing.[/QUOTE

Interesting, yours is definitely some different than mine. the cord on my element as an example is plenty long to adjust it anywhere on the frame. You have a different key switch (doubt that matters really). Did you ask for the whirlpool fitting? I really find the recirc arm actually whirpools pretty well and if you have the whirlpool fitting there where does the site glass go? Maybe Im missing something.

Yes, I asked for it. The site glass goes on the other side. It's an extra cost and extra fitting. I picked up 8' of 10/3 today so mine will be plenty long by tonight.
 
It's been a while since anyone's discussed doing calculations for this system. Has anyone got a spreadsheet or Beersmith setup dialed in?

Co brewing downloads has a sheet that is simple and pretty accurate. In BeerSmith I downloaded the BrewBoss profile and tweaked it. The profile in BeerSmith is going to be different for everyone. The key values are boil off, loss to trub and chiller, and fermenter loss and that is different for everyone. Lauter Tun deadspace is zero since it's BIAB. The other key is the global setting in BeerSmith for grain absorption rate. BeerSmith assumes if you pick a BIAB profile that you squeeze the bag and thus has a lower rate. I adjusted this to match the rate for normal sparge.
 
A few more tips for anyone that may have had issues with re-circulation. My last batch went very well and I had the pump running full speed with no issues. The only bad news is that I changed a few variables so I can't be 100% sure what made the biggest impact.

  1. Grain bill - this reicpe didn't have any "difficult" malts except for 4% flaked oats. I think wheat, british pale, and roasted barley can cause issues.
  2. I set the mill gap to 049.
  3. I conditioned the grains with a simple spray bottle of water. The downside here is the rollers on my mill are gummy. I will need to get a firm brush to clean them.
  4. I added the basket to the kettle then added the grains to the kettle. I have tried adding the grains to the basket then adding the basket to the kettle but I think this is a bad idea.
  5. I attached the re-circulation arm and started the pump before I added grains. I think this helps and avoids dough balls.

This was a 10g batch with 22.5 lbs of grain. I think the type of grain is a major factor. Next time I do something with a lot of wheat or roasted barely I think I'm going to add rice hulls to the recipe to be safe.
 
Co brewing downloads has a sheet that is simple and pretty accurate. In BeerSmith I downloaded the BrewBoss profile and tweaked it. The profile in BeerSmith is going to be different for everyone. The key values are boil off, loss to trub and chiller, and fermenter loss and that is different for everyone. Lauter Tun deadspace is zero since it's BIAB. The other key is the global setting in BeerSmith for grain absorption rate. BeerSmith assumes if you pick a BIAB profile that you squeeze the bag and thus has a lower rate. I adjusted this to match the rate for normal sparge.

FYI there is a beersmith file now available on the downloads page at CBS
 
Brew day did not go well. Stuck mash, added grains way too early (we were videoing the brew, just not thinking at all), scorched element.

Hopefully the beer turns out OK. The sample didn't taste burnt and the OG was spot on. Did a 10 gallon version of Yoopers Oatmeal stout. Fingers crossed it turns out. Brew day 2 is scheduled for next week.
 
By "adding grains too early", are you saying before hitting strike temp? Iced yet to brew on mine yet, trying to absorb everyone's experiences until I do get the chance.
 
Doing an Oktoberfest Ale this weekend, did an Irish Red last weekend, everything went very good. I just needed to watch/adjust the pump output to make sure I didn't suck the bottom of the pot dry. Once I found the right amount to recirculate I didn't have to adjust again. I am still using my original pump and not the brush-less one that CB sent. So far I am loving this system and the clean up times compared to the old way with a Coleman cooler. The only thing I want to play around with now is grain bed temperature compared to PID temperature.
 
Does the PID controller they supply let you calibrate the temperature probe?

I think it can be but its not discussed in the owner/operators stuff. You might ask Tim at CBS if nobody here knows. Mine seems to be accurate but it would be handy to know in case I ever needed to know that info. Its a pretty common PID I think so if others can be Id think this one can be as well. it may be a complicated process and so they don't want people fiddling with it too. if ya tell people they can adjust something, they will, and when they screw it up, they call you. LOL
 
By "adding grains too early", are you saying before hitting strike temp? Iced yet to brew on mine yet, trying to absorb everyone's experiences until I do get the chance.

Yes, we were videoing a how to and trying to catch it from a first time all grain brewer on a new system. Walking through the steps at the beginning from milling the grain to a protein rest at 120*.

Milled the grain, showed the crush on camera, showed how to set the PID, and then without thinking just dumped the grains in. I got about half of the second bucket before I realized what I did. From there out just more and more and more went wrong. We made it through but at what cost I'm not sure. I haven't looked into what happens if you add the grains before you heat the water. We didn't want to throw in the towel and we ended up with the correct gravity wort in the carboy.

On the plus side the boil off chart that CBS has seems to be spot on. I followed it and ended up exactly where I should've.
 
Adding grains before heating to strike temperature is just fine, worst case you will get a more fermentable beer, lower gravity. You basically just did ramped step mash. I know people that intentionally do most of their mashes that way.

My last problem was that despite my calculations, somehow I overshot my mash-in temperature estimate by 10F. Ended up with a 1.017 FG IPA instead of a 1.010 FG.
Still don't know how I did it, but I'll be ramping up to target in the future instead of striking down.
 
Brew day did not go well. Stuck mash, added grains way too early (we were videoing the brew, just not thinking at all), scorched element.

Hopefully the beer turns out OK. The sample didn't taste burnt and the OG was spot on. Did a 10 gallon version of Yoopers Oatmeal stout. Fingers crossed it turns out. Brew day 2 is scheduled for next week.

My first batch also included a scorch but it tasted fine. I also have a theory that with a large amount of dark grains you are at higher risk of getting the screen stuck.
 
Good news there.

Do you mean yours came with 3 degrees dialed in, or that you just made the change yourself? Not that it matters I guess, just curious.

I made the change myself after realizing I never checked the readings against my Thermapen. Hardest part was getting the text big enough to read on my phone.
 

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