Ugggggghhhh Grainfather!

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That’s what looked like the problem to me too but if their sending a new controller too then hey that’s cool. But I think I am goin to try that if I’m still holding onto the old boiler.

As an electrical engineer, I can tell you that a current surge is due to a DECREASE in resistance (Current=Volts / Ohms)or a partial short to ground (a couple of strands will do that). I had issues with Grainfather and proved that my heating element resistance was too high so it would not boil water. after a month or so with electrical tests back and forth, an entirely new unit showed up on my doorstep. I had already purchased a Hot Stick and solved the slow heating issue but they do have good customer service once you get their attention. Any wiring you replace to a heating unit needs to be rated HTML (high temperature motor lead) for this application. Cheers
 
I have a friend who is currently on his 4th Grainfather. They keep breaking, but they keep sending him a new one...
Likely because they were designed to run on 220v New Zealand, /Australian power and all the components like wiring and solder joints/traces would only see half the current load that way. When you run them on 120v it doubles the amount of amps being pulled through everything to put out the same power and its unlikely they changed much besides the actual elements to account for this. I believe thats why all of these hot water urn based setups that were designed in Australia or NZ have this same high failure rate.
 
I have a friend who is currently on his 4th Grainfather. They keep breaking, but they keep sending him a new one...


Maybe it's the brewing gods sending him a message lol. Knock on wood , I haven't had any issues with mine .
 
Likely because they were designed to run on 220v New Zealand, /Australian power and all the components like wiring and solder joints/traces would only see half the current load that way. When you run them on 120v it doubles the amount of amps being pulled through everything to put out the same power and its unlikely they changed much besides the actual elements to account for this. I believe thats why all of these hot water urn based setups that were designed in Australia or NZ have this same high failure rate.

Do they not design the ones for the US for 120? That seems odd to me . I dont know crap about electric work
 
All the above is why I bypassed any of the coffee urn type systems and got a Unibrau. There are no sealed in parts. The most complicated part is the controller and it is not integrated into the bottom of the pot. If it fails, it is the most expensive part, (other than the SS pot and basket -those shouldn't break) but still easily replaced for less than $150 USD. Cost is a little more but, IMO, well worth it.
 
Do they not design the ones for the US for 120? That seems odd to me . I dont know crap about electric work
no since much of the components are repurposed or will run on multiple voltages they usually just design the controllers and such to run on either or change a few components such as the heating elements and call it a day... this is also the exact same reason for the high failure rates on the ebay SCR controllers that people sometimes use here. 3500w one 240 volts requires a 15 amp circuit and 14awg wiring (12awg would be best).... 3500w powered by 120v requires 30 amps and 10awg wiring ... the issue is all the things on the electrical board like the solder traces that carry the voltage and amp load are being pushed literally twice as hard on 120v and stressed with resistance which causes them to heat up and fail over time. it really is a fire hazard and im surprised they havent fixed it by now if this is in fact whats happening but it makes total sense and explains all the different versions since they started selling in the states.
 
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*shrugs* 80 brews and counting, and other than the lousy app update, no real complaints.
 
*shrugs* 80 brews and counting, and other than the lousy app update, no real complaints.
That encouraging news.. It would help to know if you are in canada or the United states running it on 120v or somewhere else running 220 though for discussions sake.. maybe it states that info somewhere I. Not seeing from my mobile browser IDK.
 
I asked GF why the 220 Volt model is not available in the US and Canada, here is the reply:
Hi Jacques,

Thanks for your enquiry.

We when bought out the Grainfather in the US/Canada, we were aware that all households had 110v and some had both the 110v and 220v. Our developers decided it was better to bring out the 110v only in that market so that it was accessible for everyone.

Our product development team is continuously evaluating feedback and suggestions on product improvements. And while we don't currently have the 220V unit available in the US/Canada, we are evaluating this capability within our wider product development portfolio and it could be something that is released in the future.

Please sign up to our newsletter to be sure you get all our announcements on this.

Thanks,
 
I asked GF why the 220 Volt model is not available in the US and Canada, here is the reply:
Hi Jacques,

Thanks for your enquiry.

We when bought out the Grainfather in the US/Canada, we were aware that all households had 110v and some had both the 110v and 220v. Our developers decided it was better to bring out the 110v only in that market so that it was accessible for everyone.

Our product development team is continuously evaluating feedback and suggestions on product improvements. And while we don't currently have the 220V unit available in the US/Canada, we are evaluating this capability within our wider product development portfolio and it could be something that is released in the future.

Please sign up to our newsletter to be sure you get all our announcements on this.

Thanks,
the truth is more likely because we use 220 made of 2 120v legs... they didnt have to redesign anything to make thier single 220v/neutral powered setup work on a 120v/neutral powered line but they would if they wanted it to run on our 240v made up of 2 hot 120v legs.
 
I got a Grainfather back in 2016. A little over a year after I received the unit, I noticed the unit struggling to boil the wort. I found the heating element plug slightly damaged by heat.

After a quick email to the manufacture requesting a new controllers, I received a full system. Not just the controller I requested. Even though the system was technically out of warrantee.

Before placing the new system in service, I opened up the controller to examine what was wrong with the old unit. Ones splade on the electrical receptacle was loose which caused the heat, drove up the resistances, and caused the voltage drop to the heating element.

After cleaning up the connection point damaged by heat and oxidation, I solder the connection point to a replacement electrical receptacle.

My GF has been humming along ever since. Heck, I still have the replacement system in my garage having never been plugged in.

The GF systems seem to have some quality issues that could easily be addressed with a bit more attention to the manufacturing processes. But overall, I'm really enjoy brewing with this system.
 
I'm the CEO of Grainfather. I will pm you the address to send the new Grainfather you aren't in need of after all .....lol ;)
 
I’ve had my Grainfather for about 3 years and during that time I’ve been through 3 replacement controllers and 2 reset switches. And now the reset switch just keeps tripping and it’s not heating at all right. Each time I’m on the phone with Grainfather, then the seller, and back and forth. Then waiting 1-2 months for my replacement part. I replaced the switch yet again and looked underneath and saw this.View attachment 571541
Again I emailed grainfather hoping to hear something but This thing has been a giant headache.
With all this said I am looking for another option to brew on in my apartment. I have an extra keggle with a hole cut in the top and three ports drilled. I was looking at making this a boil kettle or an electric biab setup. I’m not the greatest with electricity if any of you guys have any advice or ideas that would be greatly appreaciated
I share your frustration. I have had several electrical problems with GF G30 110 v system. Overheating of the wiring, melted heat element plug and the most recent a bad element variation switch.
What I am trying to get now is a copy of the heater wiring diagram.
I also found the controller produced REVERSED POLARITY on the output circuits of both pump and the heater.
GF did replace the damaged unit and acknowledged the reversed polarity but stated it “was not a problem, but they would correct in the future. Not sure this was ever done.
If anyone has a wiring diagram, it would be appreciated.
 
Bought my G30 110v used. The guy I bought it from said he had 8 brews on it. I have put 40 more on it with no issues. I always plug it directly into the outlet w/o extension cords. I have nothing else on the circuit while brewing. I do not recirculate during the boil. Not sure why anyone would, but I have seen conversations where folks say they do. I create my recipes in the app, follow the beeps during the process, integrate the info from Tilt into the app. It performs exactly as described. My only complaint is the lack of handles on the unit. I bought the rolled plates because the silicone edge rings were a PitA. Ended up using the rolled plate on the bottom and the original one on top since the gasket keeps it from lying on the grain bed. Easy to install once the basket heats up.
 
Bought my G30 110v used. The guy I bought it from said he had 8 brews on it. I have put 40 more on it with no issues. I always plug it directly into the outlet w/o extension cords. I have nothing else on the circuit while brewing. I do not recirculate during the boil. Not sure why anyone would, but I have seen conversations where folks say they do. I create my recipes in the app, follow the beeps during the process, integrate the info from Tilt into the app. It performs exactly as described. My only complaint is the lack of handles on the unit. I bought the rolled plates because the silicone edge rings were a PitA. Ended up using the rolled plate on the bottom and the original one on top since the gasket keeps it from lying on the grain bed. Easy to install once the basket heats up.
You mean more handles than this one ;)
 

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