Tribute Tribute (St. Austell)

[mcspanner]

Hi Ben, timings on recipes are the length of time the hops have to boil for so yes count it back from the end. First wort hopping is when you add some hops into the kettle as you transfer the wort from the mash tun and then bring the wort (hops and all) to the boil. A full explanation of the practice is found here. http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-1.html let us know how it goes. I do like a pint of tribute.

 

[monkeyhands]

Thanks for the replt, I've got a brew on the go at the moment and am going to do the Tribute next then keep it for Christmas, ill let yoy know how it turns out.

 

[PeteNMA]

Cool. Keep us posted

 

[monkeyhands]

So im brewing this right now and have just realised i have no idea what whirlpool means and there are so many explanations on the forum's I don't know which is the right one, can anyone help thanks

 

[JKaranka]

So im brewing this right now and have just realised i have no idea what whirlpool means and there are so many explanations on the forum's I don't know which is the right one, can anyone help thanks

Adding the hops when you cool the wort after flameout. I would do a hop stand: cool the wort by a few degrees, add the hops, keep them there for around 20 minutes, and then carry on cooling before transfer & pitch.

 

[PeteNMA]

That's the one. You can either throw the hops in when you turn off the flame, stir (or recirculate with a pump) for the appropriate time, then start chilling

Or you can quickly chill the wort down to about 180F, then add hops, stir, wait then finish chilling after the time is up.

Which you do will have some impact on the final beer, but will likely be driven by your setup and your ability to manipulate it to your ends.

 

[monkeyhands]

Thanks for the answer guys, at the moment I don't have an imersion chiller so I cool the wort by running it from the boiler through a 10 meter long coiled tube that I submerge in a cool box full of ice cold water, the wort goes in the top hot through the tube and comes out at the bottom coolish. Obviously with this set up I cant cool the wort before adding the hops etc everything has to be done before cooling it so when I made the brew I ended up putting the last hops in when the boil was turned off, giving it a good stir for a few minutes and left them in while I ran the wort through the cooler into the fermenting bin. Not sure how it will turn out because of this but its bubbling away nicely

 

[JKaranka]

That's fine

 

[lastdays]

I made this recipe and many similar and I cant tell much of a difference from adding right after I stop my boil or adding at 180. The amount of time whirlpooling the hops seems to make more of a difference. Ive found 20 minutes seems to works best for a bright hop flavor. And Ive also found that more than just stirring every so often, a constant whirlpool works best.

 

[monkeyhands]

Ok well I'll give the constant stirring go next time as far as the time goes it probably takes about 20 minutes to drain the boiler through the chiller any way, would leaving everything in the boiler for 20 mins then draining make any difference do you think, the flame out hops would be in for around 40 mins theb or is this too long

 

[lastdays]

Not at all. What works best for me is to turn gas off on boil kettle. Start whirlpool. The temp will actually drop fairly quick just by whirlpooling. Add hops and whirlpool for 20 minutes. Then drop in immersion chiller. Takes me about 10 minutes from that point to get to 70. Take out immersion chiller and then whirlpool to get my hop cone in bottom of my kettle. Wait 20 minutes and transfer to fermenter. Waiting the 20 minutes seems to give be a much better hop cone so Im not pulling any trub.

 

[Jnick]

I’d like to reinvigorate this post about an awesome beer. I’ll be brewing this next week and was wondering if anyone had a water profile that would work. I found this and saved it awhile ago thinking it would work but really don’t have a clue.
Ca 123ppm, Mg 3ppm, CaCO3 12ppm, Na 13ppm, Cl 103ppm, SO4 187ppm.
Can anyone tell me if this is about right?

 

[Mat Strong]

Wondering if you ever received feedback on this water profile idea. I’m looking to brew a Tribute, Tribute; but want to mimic Cornwall water as much as possible. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[Jnick]

Wondering if you ever received feedback on this water profile idea. I’m looking to brew a Tribute, Tribute; but want to mimic Cornwall water as much as possible. Anyone have any ideas?

I didn't, however I went with what I posted and recall the beer being pretty good.

 

[Davethatsme]

Hey! This is old hope someone can help, I'm new to brewing, brand new.
Only question I'm not clear is how long for second fermentation, just roughly??

 

[D.B.Moody]

Dave, welcome to HBT and the hobby. As you might suspect from my icon, my name is also Dave.

I do not know exactly why you posted for your first time on this old thread, but I will assume you are interested in this recipe. I don't think this called for a secondary. In general, you will mostly find advice to not do a secondary. It is generally unnecessary and exposes the beer to oxidation.

I happen to use a secondary because i find it useful for helping the beer to clear for bottling. This is not, to say the least, a popular way to do things today. One of the reasons I can enjoy my beers anyway is that I hop them far less than what is currently popular. The recipe I have brewed most often since 1994 uses Fuggle and Stryian Goldings, but only 1/2 oz. Stryian for flavor and the same for aroma. This is a lot less that the recipe here, Oxidation attacks first the flavor and aroma hops.

I think you should forget the secondary. BTW, Stryian Goldings is generally found as Celeia now.

EDIT: From your answer below, I see that you are using "secondary" for carbing and conditioning in the keg. Not what I was talking about at all. Forget what I said and enjoy your real ale.

My trips to the UK in 1988 and 1996, when I had a pint of cask conditioned ale in numerous pubs, are the reason I home brew and brew bitter and pale wannabes, like the recipe I mentioned.

 

[Davethatsme]

Dave, welcome to HBT and the hobby. As you might suspect from my icon, may name is also Dave.

I do not know exactly why you posted your for you first time on this old thread, but I will assume you are interested in this recipe. I don't think this called for a secondary. In general, you will mostly find advice to not do a secondary. It is generally unnecessary and exposes the beer to oxidation.

I happen to use a secondary because i find it useful for helping the beer to clear for bottling. This is not, to say the least, a popular way to do things today. One of the reasons I can enjoy my beers anyway is that I hop them far less than is what currently popular. The recipe I have brewed most often since 1994 uses Fuggle and Stryian Goldings, but only 1/2 oz. Stryian or flavor and the same aroma. This is a lot less that the recipe here, Oxidation attacks first the flavor and aroma hops.

I think you should forget the secondary. BTW, Stryian Goldings is generally found as Celeia now.

Hey Dave! I lived the UK for 10 yrs and Tribute was maybe my favorite pint. I'm trying to do it the real-ale method, so I'll do the secondary fermentation with priming sugar. Had a look around, it seems to be about 2 weeks are so at 20C.
Anyway I'll post my results in a few weeks!

 

[Davethatsme]

I apologize for asking this stupid question....if I'm short on liquid think it's OK to just add water to top it up after boils done?? Haha. For a 5 gallon batch I have about 4 gallons, I think my mash tun didn't allow the liquid to drain out adequately

 

[DuncB]

Would depend on your kettle or fermenter gravity really if the numbers are right then don't dilute it.
But don't forget to treat any water you add at this late stage to remove any chlorine.

 

[Davethatsme]

Would depend on your kettle or fermenter gravity really if the numbers are right then don't dilute it.
But don't forget to treat any water you add at this late stage to remove any chlorine.

Thank you, well I'll chalk it up as a loss haha I didn't add water and it's so much lower in quantity than should be. Plus my carboy sucked in the sanitizing solution out of the airlock after I washed off the carboy with cold water---causing a pressure drop and vacuum inside the carboy I think, or the fact there wasn't enough liquid in there. First brew so next time I'll be much more prepared. A whole bunch of other things I need to change next time also.

 

[DuncB]

If you had starsan in your airlock it won't matter too much, but don't let the flies into your airlock.
Some people put tube to foil balloon to capture CO2 and then plug that on when cold crashing to prevent air ingress. Low volume doesn't suggest bad beer, was the gravity too high?

Will await taste test, had a few pints of tribute over the last month in Devon and Cornwall on holiday. Now back in NZ winter gales and cold.

 

[Davethatsme]

Oh man!! Lucky you!!

Well oh my f#@$, my OG was 1.042! (I just checked to make sure I'm reading the hydrometer correctly) Holy hell it's spot on....
Okay maybe I'll give it a chance then, I was going to dump it. But it's definitely going to be extra hoppy with lower volume of beer

 

[DuncB]

Good to check, work out your efficiencies so you can adjust for next time.

 

[Davethatsme]

Will do thanks! I forgot to check the gravity pre-boil (tho it was even on my checklist) so I don't think I'll be able to get the efficiency, but anyhow thanks for the tips I think I'm in for the long run in the new hobby

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Wondering if you ever received feedback on this water profile idea. I’m looking to brew a Tribute, Tribute; but want to mimic Cornwall water as much as possible. Anyone have any ideas?

Lots of radon to be authentic....

Cornwall is mostly granite, St Austell is famous for china clay (kaolin) which is a weathering product of granite. And there's lots of rain. So the water there is really soft - the tapwater at the brewery is 21ppm chloride, 12 ppm sulphate, pH 7.93, 14ppm calcium, 10ppm sodium.

But being British they treat it liberally, this recipe for Tribute's precursor Daylight Robbery (a special for the 1999 solar eclipse) used the equivalent of 3.3g gypsum, 3.3g table salt and 3.3g MgSO4 in 20l, but apparently they now use a more conventional gypsum/calcium chloride combination.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...-became-tribute-from-the-horses-mouth.661711/

 

[Davethatsme]

here's my first try, carbed up nicely with priming sugar, tastes like a real-ale to me. Colour looks good to me! It's a bit strong mind! Had a pint and I'm tipsy. Waiting for my test tube to go flat to check the FG. I'm really impressed considering I thought it had gone horribly wrong

 

[DuncB]

View attachment 778265here's my first try, carbed up nicely with priming sugar, tastes like a real-ale to me. Colour looks good to me! It's a bit strong mind! Had a pint and I'm tipsy. Waiting for my test tube to go flat to check the FG. I'm really impressed considering I thought it had gone horribly wrong

Looks a great pint and gorgeous setting.

 

[Rakey]

Lots of radon to be authentic....

Cornwall is mostly granite, St Austell is famous for china clay (kaolin) which is a weathering product of granite. And there's lots of rain. So the water there is really soft - the tapwater at the brewery is 21ppm chloride, 12 ppm sulphate, pH 7.93, 14ppm calcium, 10ppm sodium.

But being British they treat it liberally, this recipe for Tribute's precursor Daylight Robbery (a special for the 1999 solar eclipse) used the equivalent of 3.3g gypsum, 3.3g table salt and 3.3g MgSO4 in 20l, but apparently they now use a more conventional gypsum/calcium chloride combination.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...-became-tribute-from-the-horses-mouth.661711/

They don't actually use the tap water at St Austell, they have a special source that comes from a spring, when I did the tour they were explaining that this pipe travels across a few different farms of whom the owners are unknown, and that they fear one day someone might cut them off.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

They don't actually use the tap water at St Austell, they have a special source that comes from a spring

Spring water will essentially be rainwater so again will be really soft, so I'd suggest the tapwater is a reasonable first approximation in the absence of more detailed analysis.

 

[Rakey]

Spring water will essentially be rainwater so again will be really soft, so I'd suggest the tapwater is a reasonable first approximation in the absence of more detailed analysis.

Defo a good starting point.

Just like to add this is a great thread, and appreciate all the notes and advice from the contributors, some good solid information in here. I've had my own attempt at this a few times, but now made some changes to that recipe and hope to brew it soon.