Tribute Tribute (St. Austell)

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So ive just casked and bottled the beer. Couldnt get dark munich so just used munich and added 25g (1oz) of roasted barley. Maybe a little too much but hopefully will get lighter as it conditions. genuine tribute in the pint glass....had a sneaky side by side taste, not a bad match at the mo. Ill try and put another pic up in a few weeks. And a side by side taste of a cask conditioned tribute. Thanks for the recipe
 
I've made this twice now. Once with dark munich and once with light. They both came out great. I've never had the real thing but just as a great base recipe this works wonderfully. A small addition of biscuit also worked with the light munich.
 
I'm happy to see so many people brewing this one up and for all the feedback. I might be able to sneak in a batch myself this weekend if all goes well
 
Ok so im on my second batch at tribute. 1st one was very tasty and didnt last long 😆. My last pre boil gravity was 1.042.....perfect. but this time round its gone up to 1.060 post boil. I didnt do anyyhing differently. Both had 3.5kg of marris otter and 1kg of munich

Please help. I was thinking of just adding water post boil to get the gravity down to somewhere drinkable but didnt want to have a watered down taste. Any advise?

Many thanks

View attachment 1430662511778.jpg
 
You either boiled off too much or changed something else that increased your extraction. Some top-up water is in order to achieve the right starting gravity. Is that as good as just hitting it right in the first place? Possibly not, but that's debatable. If this were my brew I'd add distilled water after the boil (not tap water for sanitation reasons and for salt ion concentration reasons) to make it back to the intended OG. Good luck!
 
Carefully verify your volume and gravity measurement first. Greater than 100% efficiency is not possible.
 
Ok so ive done the boil and taken a sample, cooled to 20°c and taken a measurement,1.050. And collected 5 uk gallons. Something couldnt have been right before. I tried 2 different hydrometers and both read the same.

Sorry, in my original question i wrote post boil, it should have said pre boil. Gravity should have gone up....not down. Luckily i didnt add any water.
 
Thought I'd throw this one out here having had some success. This is a recipe from St Austell brewery in Cornwall, England from the head of the head brewer Roger Ryman who knows a thing or two about good beer. A nice pale ale, decent mouthfeel with just the right amount of head and judicious use of non-typical hops, this is a great summer beer.

Recipe:
Batch size: 6 gallons (5.25 finished beer)
7lbs Maris Otter
2lbs Dark Munich (20L)

Mash in with 3 gallons, 152F rest for 1 hour.
First wort hop with 1 oz UK Fuggles
Sparge with 5 gallons, should collect about 7 gallons in kettle.

Boil for 90 minutes.
Whirlfloc @ 15 mins
1oz ea Willamette and Styrian Goldings @ 10 minutes
1oz ea Willamette and Styrian Goldings @ flameout
Whirlpool for 20 minutes then chill.

Target OG from the real brew is 1.042, my last batch came out at 1.052.

I've had great success using Mangrove Jack dry yeast with this, either the M07 English Ale or M79 Burton Union give great results. The M07 is a bit crisper, the M79 left a little more residual sweetness. It works fine with US-05 too.

FG should come to about 1.010.

A week in the kegs and this is already shaping up very nicely. Best drunk fresh and goes from grain to glass very quickly if you want it to.


Do you have the hop AA%? Ive done a few brews now and although very tasty and close, i feel its missing something. Maybe i need to add more hops to get the taste. I dont get that floral note that the original has. Im doing this again next week and wanted to get it spot on this time.

Cheers
 
Do you have the hop AA%? Ive done a few brews now and although very tasty and close, i feel its missing something. Maybe i need to add more hops to get the taste. I dont get that floral note that the original has. Im doing this again next week and wanted to get it spot on this time.

Cheers
 
I will look them up. I have a couple of tweaks to try myself, I'd consider doubling the two late additions and moving them to flameout and just before chilling starts.

If you are aiming for the bottled version then you could consider mashing a couple of degrees cooler too.

The important thing to understand with this recipe is whether you are aiming for the cask of bottled version. The bottled version is a touch thinner, a little more bitter on the front end and less floral on the back IMO
 
Defo the cask version. Ive seen another recipe where there are only 2 hop additions. Fuggles at fwh and the styrian and willamette at 6mins. Im going to try that one next and see what happens.
 
I expect that you'll move further away from the floral qualities of the hops doing that. I'd try the two additions with one at flameout followed by a ten minute hot whirlpool and the final addition less than a minute before you kick your chiller on.
 
Hmmmm. Im planning on doing 72 pints for my brothers 30th bday so want it right. Any luck with the hop AA%?

Other hop schedule i found was

Fuggles 4.47% 100g fwh
Willamette 5.8% 60g 6mins
Styrian goldings 2.5% 92g 6mins

Any thoughts?
 
For what batch size? You're only shooting for 20-25 IBU from your first addition, 100g is almost four ounces so that seems like a lot

I know the folks who had the most success over on JimsBeerKit which is where I got the bulk of my information had the best results with two equal additions of willamette and styrians at or near the end of the boil with a hot whirlpool. This mimics the process used by the brewery best and seems to work very well
 
Hi,

I'm new to wholegrain brewing and have only done 5 brews so far which have all been from kits that came with instructions hence my knowledge is not great yet so apologies for the daft question. My question is about the quoted times for putting the hops in the boil, this recipe quotes 10 minutes but is this 10 minutes after the boil starts or 10 minutes before the end? Also the wort hop part I have never come across before but I presume it means put the hops in with the mash is this correct ?

Thanks

Ben
 
Hi Ben, timings on recipes are the length of time the hops have to boil for so yes count it back from the end. First wort hopping is when you add some hops into the kettle as you transfer the wort from the mash tun and then bring the wort (hops and all) to the boil. A full explanation of the practice is found here. http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-1.html let us know how it goes. I do like a pint of tribute.
 
Thanks for the replt, I've got a brew on the go at the moment and am going to do the Tribute next then keep it for Christmas, ill let yoy know how it turns out.
 
So im brewing this right now and have just realised i have no idea what whirlpool means and there are so many explanations on the forum's I don't know which is the right one, can anyone help thanks
 
So im brewing this right now and have just realised i have no idea what whirlpool means and there are so many explanations on the forum's I don't know which is the right one, can anyone help thanks

Adding the hops when you cool the wort after flameout. I would do a hop stand: cool the wort by a few degrees, add the hops, keep them there for around 20 minutes, and then carry on cooling before transfer & pitch.
 
That's the one. You can either throw the hops in when you turn off the flame, stir (or recirculate with a pump) for the appropriate time, then start chilling

Or you can quickly chill the wort down to about 180F, then add hops, stir, wait then finish chilling after the time is up.

Which you do will have some impact on the final beer, but will likely be driven by your setup and your ability to manipulate it to your ends.
 
Thanks for the answer guys, at the moment I don't have an imersion chiller so I cool the wort by running it from the boiler through a 10 meter long coiled tube that I submerge in a cool box full of ice cold water, the wort goes in the top hot through the tube and comes out at the bottom coolish. Obviously with this set up I cant cool the wort before adding the hops etc everything has to be done before cooling it so when I made the brew I ended up putting the last hops in when the boil was turned off, giving it a good stir for a few minutes and left them in while I ran the wort through the cooler into the fermenting bin. Not sure how it will turn out because of this but its bubbling away nicely
 
I made this recipe and many similar and I cant tell much of a difference from adding right after I stop my boil or adding at 180. The amount of time whirlpooling the hops seems to make more of a difference. Ive found 20 minutes seems to works best for a bright hop flavor. And Ive also found that more than just stirring every so often, a constant whirlpool works best.
 
Ok well I'll give the constant stirring go next time as far as the time goes it probably takes about 20 minutes to drain the boiler through the chiller any way, would leaving everything in the boiler for 20 mins then draining make any difference do you think, the flame out hops would be in for around 40 mins theb or is this too long
 
Not at all. What works best for me is to turn gas off on boil kettle. Start whirlpool. The temp will actually drop fairly quick just by whirlpooling. Add hops and whirlpool for 20 minutes. Then drop in immersion chiller. Takes me about 10 minutes from that point to get to 70. Take out immersion chiller and then whirlpool to get my hop cone in bottom of my kettle. Wait 20 minutes and transfer to fermenter. Waiting the 20 minutes seems to give be a much better hop cone so Im not pulling any trub.
 
I’d like to reinvigorate this post about an awesome beer. I’ll be brewing this next week and was wondering if anyone had a water profile that would work. I found this and saved it awhile ago thinking it would work but really don’t have a clue.
Ca 123ppm, Mg 3ppm, CaCO3 12ppm, Na 13ppm, Cl 103ppm, SO4 187ppm.
Can anyone tell me if this is about right?
 
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Wondering if you ever received feedback on this water profile idea. I’m looking to brew a Tribute, Tribute; but want to mimic Cornwall water as much as possible. Anyone have any ideas?
 
Wondering if you ever received feedback on this water profile idea. I’m looking to brew a Tribute, Tribute; but want to mimic Cornwall water as much as possible. Anyone have any ideas?
I didn't, however I went with what I posted and recall the beer being pretty good.
 
Hey! This is old hope someone can help, I'm new to brewing, brand new.
Only question I'm not clear is how long for second fermentation, just roughly??
 
Dave, welcome to HBT and the hobby. As you might suspect from my icon, my name is also Dave. :)

I do not know exactly why you posted for your first time on this old thread, but I will assume you are interested in this recipe. I don't think this called for a secondary. In general, you will mostly find advice to not do a secondary. It is generally unnecessary and exposes the beer to oxidation.

I happen to use a secondary because i find it useful for helping the beer to clear for bottling. This is not, to say the least, a popular way to do things today. One of the reasons I can enjoy my beers anyway is that I hop them far less than what is currently popular. The recipe I have brewed most often since 1994 uses Fuggle and Stryian Goldings, but only 1/2 oz. Stryian for flavor and the same for aroma. This is a lot less that the recipe here, Oxidation attacks first the flavor and aroma hops.

I think you should forget the secondary. BTW, Stryian Goldings is generally found as Celeia now.

EDIT: From your answer below, I see that you are using "secondary" for carbing and conditioning in the keg. Not what I was talking about at all. Forget what I said and enjoy your real ale.

My trips to the UK in 1988 and 1996, when I had a pint of cask conditioned ale in numerous pubs, are the reason I home brew and brew bitter and pale wannabes, like the recipe I mentioned.
 
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Dave, welcome to HBT and the hobby. As you might suspect from my icon, may name is also Dave. :)

I do not know exactly why you posted your for you first time on this old thread, but I will assume you are interested in this recipe. I don't think this called for a secondary. In general, you will mostly find advice to not do a secondary. It is generally unnecessary and exposes the beer to oxidation.

I happen to use a secondary because i find it useful for helping the beer to clear for bottling. This is not, to say the least, a popular way to do things today. One of the reasons I can enjoy my beers anyway is that I hop them far less than is what currently popular. The recipe I have brewed most often since 1994 uses Fuggle and Stryian Goldings, but only 1/2 oz. Stryian or flavor and the same aroma. This is a lot less that the recipe here, Oxidation attacks first the flavor and aroma hops.

I think you should forget the secondary. BTW, Stryian Goldings is generally found as Celeia now.
Hey Dave! I lived the UK for 10 yrs and Tribute was maybe my favorite pint. I'm trying to do it the real-ale method, so I'll do the secondary fermentation with priming sugar. Had a look around, it seems to be about 2 weeks are so at 20C.
Anyway I'll post my results in a few weeks!
 
I apologize for asking this stupid question....if I'm short on liquid think it's OK to just add water to top it up after boils done?? Haha. For a 5 gallon batch I have about 4 gallons, I think my mash tun didn't allow the liquid to drain out adequately
 
Would depend on your kettle or fermenter gravity really if the numbers are right then don't dilute it.
But don't forget to treat any water you add at this late stage to remove any chlorine.
 
Would depend on your kettle or fermenter gravity really if the numbers are right then don't dilute it.
But don't forget to treat any water you add at this late stage to remove any chlorine.
Thank you, well I'll chalk it up as a loss haha I didn't add water and it's so much lower in quantity than should be. Plus my carboy sucked in the sanitizing solution out of the airlock after I washed off the carboy with cold water---causing a pressure drop and vacuum inside the carboy I think, or the fact there wasn't enough liquid in there. First brew so next time I'll be much more prepared. A whole bunch of other things I need to change next time also.
 
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