The correct way to connect is to size the gasket opening to the direction of flow. If the flow is towards the 1/2 opening fitting it gets 1/2 gasket. But if the flow is towards the1” fitting you use the 1” gasket. Doing it backwards against the flow will cause the inner lip of the gasket to bend away from the fitting, creating the gap where debris gets stuck. No bueno. Note that if you do cip with a “Reverse” flow /back flush you will cause this issue.Actually, in looking for a picture online to illustrate my problem, I may had solved my problemIt could be I have been using the wrong gaskets for these connections.
Here is a picture of a cross section of a 1.5" TC connection between two pipes which are both 1.5" i.d.:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1...tical-labeled-300x214.jpg?9838923691070030112
And here is a picture of a TC connection where the o.d. is larger than the i.d.:
https://www.glaciertanks.com/site_templates/Custom/img/TC_Flange_to_Tube.png
You can see in the second example they are using a special gasket with a smaller ID to fill what would otherwise be a gap left between the two faces of the flanges, if a standard gasket was used.
So I guess the solution for me would be to buy a bunch of something like these to use on my system:
https://www.crafthardware.de/en/product/epdm-gasket-tri-clamp-1-5-id-16-mm/
Tri clamps?
- Thread starter JoeTheBartender
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Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
IME, getting the TC clamps aligned for easy use of valves is pretty easy (once you think about it, or do it a couple of times). I use the full size gaskets pretty much everywhere in my system now. Less things to deal with, or think about. As I mentioned, when I'm cleaning out the MT and BK, I remove all the items connected to them. It's easy to do (IME) and makes sure nothing is trapped that could create issues.
Once my new plate chiller is in position, I'm thinking about labeling the lines to make it easier to strip everything down and reconnect after. I'm waiting to get the new chiller in place because the wort filter is getting moved slightly. Which means I'll either switch that hose from another, or make a new one for that connection (manifold to filter). I'm hoping that the hose I've been using for the filter to chiller can be used moving forward.
While this isn't a cheap option (so not something many will do) having manifolds on both pump heads has made my brew day significantly easier on me. I got the idea after a post by Jaybird, and built it up. IIRC, it ended costing me about $500 to build, with having some of the items already. Might have been a bit more (under $600, I think) by the time I was done. Instead of needing to change hose connections during the brewing process, I simply open/close valves. It helps that my entire setup uses TC connections, including the pump heads. Which means they won't shift during use. It's also easy to be 100% sure you're not going to have a leak, or a connection drop during use. I use all 5/8" OD barbs with 1/2" ID hose sizes, for clamp free connections (hose to barb). With the new plate chiller having all TC connections, I'm ready there too since I have garden hose to TC fittings. I'm hoping to get the new chiller mount made this weekend.
Once my new plate chiller is in position, I'm thinking about labeling the lines to make it easier to strip everything down and reconnect after. I'm waiting to get the new chiller in place because the wort filter is getting moved slightly. Which means I'll either switch that hose from another, or make a new one for that connection (manifold to filter). I'm hoping that the hose I've been using for the filter to chiller can be used moving forward.
While this isn't a cheap option (so not something many will do) having manifolds on both pump heads has made my brew day significantly easier on me. I got the idea after a post by Jaybird, and built it up. IIRC, it ended costing me about $500 to build, with having some of the items already. Might have been a bit more (under $600, I think) by the time I was done. Instead of needing to change hose connections during the brewing process, I simply open/close valves. It helps that my entire setup uses TC connections, including the pump heads. Which means they won't shift during use. It's also easy to be 100% sure you're not going to have a leak, or a connection drop during use. I use all 5/8" OD barbs with 1/2" ID hose sizes, for clamp free connections (hose to barb). With the new plate chiller having all TC connections, I'm ready there too since I have garden hose to TC fittings. I'm hoping to get the new chiller mount made this weekend.
I'm going to make the jump to TC, but not because the pros do it or that it looks cool (ok, it DOES look cool). I've just grown to really hate camlocks and truth be told, 3pc ball valves to me suck. I freaking hate breaking them down to clean them. The TC connections on my conicals make me hate them even more because it's nothing to break those down to clean. Some of my cam locks I can connect one handed, and the others make me feel I need to go into a gamma ray induced rage to get these damn things to close. So I'm going to give the ball lock disconnects a shot.
Two of my friends in my brew club are going to buy my kettles. Truth be told, I really didn't want to sell them, but after talking to Spike, modifying my v3 kettles from NPT to TC isn't an option they offer. Bummer. So, I plan on replacing these with the v4+. I've already got the TC EZ cleanball valves from Bobby M. Now the only thing threaded is the ball valve on my homemade mash tun, but it's still going to be an EZ clean, so much better to break down vs a 3pc valve.
Two of my friends in my brew club are going to buy my kettles. Truth be told, I really didn't want to sell them, but after talking to Spike, modifying my v3 kettles from NPT to TC isn't an option they offer. Bummer. So, I plan on replacing these with the v4+. I've already got the TC EZ cleanball valves from Bobby M. Now the only thing threaded is the ball valve on my homemade mash tun, but it's still going to be an EZ clean, so much better to break down vs a 3pc valve.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
@Yesfan I'd go direct to the barb TC connections and not go to the ball lock types if I was to make my Spike kettle purchase again (I have the v4 line). Since I have a box of those now that are sitting unused. While the thought behind the ball lock is good, execution (for me) wasn't nearly as good. If you're looking at doing the QDs for changing connections during the brew day, give serious though to making manifolds for the pumps. I've posted pictures of mine in the past. If you want to talk more about that, shoot me a PM and we can go over all of it. If you're still dead set on doing QDs, I'd still look at doing the manifold. Just means you won't need to disconnect lines while brewing.
On another note about 3pc ball valves. What I liked about Spike's NPT ball valves are they have male threads on the end that connects to the kettle, so they just screw into the port. I like that. No male nipple to connect the female ends of the port and valve.
Unfortunately with the EZ clean valves, you either get female NPT on both ends or TC. What would be cool would be if the output of those valves were different. If you're using cam locks, just get the valve that has the built in camlock output. Then your hose connects directly to the valve. No male cam lock to screw into the valve or a cam x TC fitting fitting between the hose and valve. @Bobby_M @Jaybird @SpikeBrewing is that possible?
Unfortunately with the EZ clean valves, you either get female NPT on both ends or TC. What would be cool would be if the output of those valves were different. If you're using cam locks, just get the valve that has the built in camlock output. Then your hose connects directly to the valve. No male cam lock to screw into the valve or a cam x TC fitting fitting between the hose and valve. @Bobby_M @Jaybird @SpikeBrewing is that possible?
Can you post a pic of your manifold? I have a Top Tier. Nothing elaborate like some of the setups I've seen here. I gravity feed from the HLT (direct fired) for my mash water and sparging. My mashtun is a cooler, so the most changes I'm doing is the one hose when transferring the wort from MT to the BK.
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
IMO, doing hard/dedicated fitting types on the valves, like that, wouldn't make sense. For one thing, with either NPT or TC connections on the valves, YOU can use whatever you want on them. Having a QD, or barb, connection part of the valve means more items to stock, get from suppliers, and other logistical headaches that will drive up the costs and down the supply.
IME, all TC connections (like the Spike+ kettles) means YOU get to put whatever you want onto them from that point. I'm actually GLAD I did that since I've gone from the QD (ball lock style) to all barb fittings since getting the kettles. IF I had to replace all the valves as well, that would have both driven the cost of that change up (by not a small amount) AND I'd have even MORE things hanging around unused.
Makes sense. Maybe I'm over thinking it. I was thinking, again using the EZ clean valve as an example, the out-put would be universal. So instead of buying a standard butterfly or ball valve and having to install either a camlock, quick connect, barb, fitting for the hose to connect, you just get the valve out put end needed.
Here's the lowdown.. Tri-clamps are a pain in the ass to use until you get the hang of it. But, the Tr-clamps are 5 times better than butterfly valves (and less expensive) and 10 times better than screw-on connectors. The Tri-clamps are faster, more secure, less likely to leak, and a whole lot easier to sanitize because of the lack of threads. It is worth it? I would say absolutely.
To be fair, the stated benefits of TC connections on tanks/vessels is that it can easily be broken down for cleaning, not that it's CIP'able.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
Not just broken down, but putting it all back together after a complete breakdown is a LOT easier with TC than NPT could ever dream of being. Same with taking apart valves (especially ball valves). With TC models out there with a single clamp holding the pieces together, taking them apart is crazy easy. Putting them back together is just as easy. I've had threaded valves (two piece) that simply couldn't be taken apart with hand tools. Even with a bench vise in the mix it wasn't going to happen.
At this point, I'll pay more to get all TC connections on items.
Yes, TC is easy for assembly/disassembly. I just happen to think that absolute cleanliness is not necessary and that all the flow paths in an NPT system can adequately cleaned in place via hot PBW recirculation. If a system owner were to be extremely lazy and not be willing to go through those CIP steps, I'd guess they also wouldn't take the time and effort to fully break down a TC based kettle either.
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Agree. For years I've had an NPT threaded ½" ball valve on my boil vessel. I always felt comfortable that a 1 hour boil was keeping everything sanitary. That is, until I removed the valve for cleaning. The problem I found was not so much bacteria related, certainly related to the valve. The valve was zinc plated or chrome plated , and there was quite a bit of rust that had started to spread to the pull-thru on the stainless brew vessel.
The pull-thru has a FM ¾" NPT, so after cleaning and passivating the channel I installed a ¾" x 1.5" TC, and mounted a spare 1.5" TC butterfly valve. Still not strictly a sanitary fitting due to the NPT threading, but better than it was, especially given the cheap plated ball valve that it replaced.
Otherwise I got a mix of TC, QDs and cam locks. Confusing and somewhat quirky if you're not familiar with my system, but it works for me. Each type of fitting has its plusses and minuses.
Hot oxy circulation works well for NPT joints, but does not obviate the need for occasional disassembly and cleaning of 3-piece ball valves. I got a bit complacent after seeing those valves staying clean, and ignored them for a while. Mistake!
No infection, but kinda gross.
No infection, but kinda gross.
For me, it’s NPT on the hot side, TC on the cold side. I count on boiling liquid to keep infection away and as for cleaning, I breakdown the 3 piece valve every few brews. I did recently purchase a stiff bristle brush after noticing the buildup that occurs on the inside of the male cam-lock fittings, elbow/tee and SS tubing. After a PBW wash, I run the brush through the fittings, making them look like brand new. Now that I have a BIAB rig, I’m down to 2 valves, 2 short pieces of silicone tubing and way fewer fittings making cleanup a breeze.
OFF TOPIC
I see you are using the SS Brewtech on Pure Flow Valve on your MT(?). How do you like it?
I see you are using the SS Brewtech on Pure Flow Valve on your MT(?). How do you like it?
Everytime I read this or similar thread I remember to go out and break down a few of my ball valves. Everytime they are perfectly clean on the inside and feel like it was a waste of time. Every brew day all of my valves get hot PBW circulated through them with valve open 45% angle. Then hot rinse water behind that. It really seems to be enough.
It's ok I guess? I don't like / dislike it more than the rest of the valves. I use the flow adjuster on the riptide for flow control so mostly this valve is full open or full closed. I'm only using it instead of a regular butterfly valve because it came with the ss brewtech MT.
