Top help!

[rpastor]

When I start, the solenoid kicks in, gas flows, and ignites. After 7 seconds, the solenoid clicks, the flame goes out and I get an alarm. This happens in both Auto and manual. I have disconnected and reconnected everything with the same problem. The system was only used twice, kept inside, and not exposed to heat. I was all set to brew this morning so I need help ASAP. I don’t want to lose my 2 L starter. Thanks for any help.

 

[SmokeyMcBong]

Don't know what you're talking about but if you don't figure it out, just put your starter in the fridge.

 

[ImNoExpert]

Sounds like you're flooding the engine. Two options:

Wait a while for it to air out; or

Push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and try to start it again.

 

[raysmithtx]

With the limited info given I'm guessing a bad thermocouple.

 

[Hello]

I'll go with the bad thermocouple, but who knows because you didn't exactly explain things well. Looks like brew day will be postponed.

 

[shutupjojo]

Viagra maybe ?

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

Too much friction at the burners and they are seizing up. Obviously, you need to oil them. 30 weight should do well.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

Sounds like you're flooding the engine. Two options:

Wait a while for it to air out; or

Push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and try to start it again.

You sure it's not a pump the pedal 10 times, activate the left blinker, tune the radio to AM, and set the switch to accessory?

 

[rpastor]

I reposted this problem with the correct title. What I was referring to was the Blichmann Tower of Power (TOP). I got on the phone with Blichmann and found the problem (bad ignition cable). I was able to brew using the Breweasy by manually turning the burner on and off at the proper temperatures.

 

[Moose_MI]

I’m on my 3rd ignition cable in 4 years...that’s about 15 brews on a $25 cable. Does anyone else see a high failure rate on these cables? After the first one went bad I started being SUPER careful with them but they just don’t seem to hold up.

 

[501irishred]

is your symptom the same as the OP? The cause of that issue sounds like the ignition module is loosing flame sense for “some” reason. It is possible, but I would be surprised if the spark cable is really the root cause.
Assuming it’s using the spark rod for flame sense (and the spark ignition wire for transmitting) it’s at least as likely that the spark rod or ignition module is close to a fail threshold to begin with, and any normal degradation in the cable Is causing failure. Another common issue is a poor ground connection to the spark module.
Before replacing the cable next time, spend some time taking all connection apart to clean, as well as using some steal wool to clean the spark rod. Also make sure the rod is positioned so it’s in a steady flame at all times and it’s not “jumping” off.
The root cause can be disguised because making ANY part of the chain slightly better (brand new $25 cable for instance) can make it run, but only for a short time.

 

[Moose_MI]

No..not same as opp. My issue is I’ve found the ignition cable to be very prone to failure. Specifically, the ends (terminal?) separate from the end of the cable. The heat shrink just is not durable enough for this application. At $25 a cable I should be able to tow a car with these things.

 

[501irishred]

No..not same as opp. My issue is I’ve found the ignition cable to be very prone to failure. Specifically, the ends (terminal?) separate from the end of the cable. The heat shrink just is not durable enough for this application. At $25 a cable I should be able to tow a car with these things.

Lol, gotcha. Can you post a pic of the cable, showing type of connections they use? There a most likely some more robust, or at least cheaper, options other than OEM.

 

[Moose_MI]

https://parts.blichmannengineering.com/Ignition-cable-72-p/top-019-01.htm

I really appreciate your help!