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Top fermenting yeast identification.

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The OP's description (i.e. a lack of yeast flocculated to the bottom after 6 days) doesn't necessarily indicate a top fermenting yeast. It indicates a yeast that is not a partivularly fast flocculator.


I don't know what strains you're working with, but typically, if a yeast requires rousing, I'd recommend looking at pitch rates, yeast health, yeast nutrients, ABV tolerance, etc. For most yeast strains, it is not normal for "un-roused" yeast to under-attenuate.
Many traditional English breweries recirculate fermenting wort to rouse yeast back into the wort. Ever heard of a Yorkshire Square? I'm pretty sure Ringwood gets recirculated during fermentation in some US breweries, too.
 
Many traditional English breweries recirculate fermenting wort to rouse yeast back into the wort. Ever heard of a Yorkshire Square? I'm pretty sure Ringwood gets recirculated during fermentation in some US breweries, too.


and whats with the double decker pots? and sanke keg? just don't want flies in it? i mean at this point, just leave it in the boil kettle with the CFC running at the right temp?
 
this might be off-topic, but i wonder what bootleg beers are you trying to clone? i'm curious because of your bready comment?

edit: and saying bootleg, and risk avoidance...and how slow it is in the one forum to hide from google! :mug: maybe it'd be better for you and the guy from iran to talk there, i don't know why else it even exists....
I opened this thread just out of curiosity. I just wanted to know is there any way to differentiate ale yeast and lagers yeast when it's fermenting.
And I am again lost on what you said about bootleg and risk avoidance.
What kind of brewing yeast (brand, name, strains, etc.) were they?



Without any yeast strain indication, it's just a generic yeast. Now baker's yeast can very well be brewers yeast, breweries produce tons of it, along with beer. Why waste it? ;)
They may use for baking whatever is commonly available.

I have noticed that my (brewing) yeasts becomes less flocculent and slower clearing with repeated repitchings (or higher generations made from starters). In baking that's never an issue, but in beer it is.


Exactly!
The majority of baker's yeast usually flocculates out after a few weeks, but the fermented products stay very hazy, almost forever. It takes months at near freezing temps to get it acceptably clear even with gelatin. Far slower than any Pilsners I've done.

So baker's yeasts are not just slower flocculators, they're also very slow clearing, to be more accurate?
It's called CS 31 yeast. I read about it's a yeast suitable for brewing ales and it's a top fermenting yeast.
it probably just said ale...or brewer's which is why he's curious if it's a lager strain or ale?
It's a yeast called CS31 by angels yeast. A Chinese company. Got it from China after 40 days wait. This is first time I am using a proper brewing yeast. And trying to learn how differently it behaves.
Nah, it says "instant" yeast, without a strain designation. Pretty much useless for brewing a specific style (even a wide one).
I reckon, it's "instant" yeast meant for baking.
It's Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast for baking. Its written on the back side of a packet.But Saccharomyces cerevisiae has many different strains. I am again repeating in the past whenever I brewed with it , there was a big yeast cake at the bottom. If that's what you call a flocculation. Its starts fermenting very quick after 8-9 hours at maximum. Alcohol tolerance is more than 8% like most people claim bakers yeast can, t tolerate beyond 8%.I don't have a way to measure it but as someone who tried commercial beers and wines I can make a comparison.Last time I brewed rice wine it using gluten rice and sugar it was somewhere between 10-15% abv. That thing got me high real quick , the smell and taste of alcohol was very strong. Its can convert almost sugars into alcohol I.e attenuation. The only downside is it gives a strong bread flavor , aroma and very strong alcohol taste and smell.
 
@bracconiere thanks a lot man for gifting me a premium membership on this forum.
I literally don't have words to thank you enough. You are gem of a person.


to me man, we mowed someone's lawn for an hour and hung out after work, and split a twelve pack! :mug: be sure to turn off the ads!
 
I opened this thread just out of curiosity. I just wanted to know is there any way to differentiate ale yeast and lagers yeast when it's fermenting.
From my perspective the first two replies gave you the best info about your actual question.

As for going forward on using the yeasts you can obtain, it'll just have to be your experimentation. And if you do happen to get some actual wild yeast that do make a good brew, you better be ready to save it and do all the things needed to keep it healthy.

Otherwise just figure out whether the brands of yeast you can get result in different tastes for your beers and if one is better overall. But you probably want to do small batches till you figure that out.

What everything else was beyond your reply to post 4, I have no idea. I've been interested in your thread from the first moment you posted it. But most of the background conversation is useless.
 
Most of my beers are ales, open fermented with top fermenting yeast. What you have described is a top fermenting yeast.

All yeast produce a krausen of some kind, but real "top fermenting" types climb out of the wort, then flocculate. These require rousing, by forcing the yeast back into the wort. If this isn't done, fermentation slows and the yeast cap will slowly collapse and eventually sink to leave the wort only partially attenuated.

View attachment 769672

As can be seen above, the recirculated wort is quite clear, not clouded by yeast in suspension, usual with bottom fermenting yeast. Between 48 to 72 hours fermentation will be mostly complete, rousing stopped, and the yeast harvested leaving a thin covering for protection. The wort will then be slowly cooled to cellar temperature, when most yeast in suspension drops out leaving the beer ready to be casked or kegged.

Top-cropping bottom fermenting yeasts yield relatively little compared with a real top fermenting one.
Holy crap are you going to drink that alone or you are a commercial brewer? Otherwise it doesn't makes sense to brew that much at home.
Or you are some 10 feet tall big foot 😂
 
it says it's diastatious, which means it might finish pretty dry and it's not done fermenting after just 6 days....
Yes and it says medium flocculation. That explains why I have a small sediment. Though I just checked a sediment has grown a little. Its 7 the day and it's still going on. The alcohol tolerance is 14 % abv. Looks like a strong yeast . I am already getting a very strong ester and fruity aromas. Because the PET bucket fermentation isn't as seal tight as a glass carboy. The airlock is working fine. Looks like a good yeast at least its behaving like what the company claims.
6a743bc4a2012001.jpg
angel-dried-brewing-yeast-cs31-500-g.png

https://en.angelyeast.com/products/distilled-spirits-and-biofuels/ale-neer-yeast-cs31.html
 
Yes and it says medium flocculation. That explains why I have a small sediment. Though I just checked a sediment has grown a little. Its 7 the day and it's still going on. The alcohol tolerance is 14 % abv. Looks like a strong yeast . I am already getting a very strong ester and fruity aromas. Because the PET bucket fermentation isn't as seal tight as a glass carboy. The airlock is working fine. Looks like a good yeast at least its behaving like what the company claims.
View attachment 769682View attachment 769683
https://en.angelyeast.com/products/distilled-spirits-and-biofuels/ale-neer-yeast-cs31.html


from that link...(which i'm disapointed won't ship to the us! they want like $200 for a brick of nottingham here! :()


This yeast is var. diastaticus.

which means it will ferment more complex sugars...and be sure to give it time, or you might get bottle bombs....(i was about to ask what the og was...but of course you don't know lol, and i'm still waiting on that aquarium hydro to compare to my SG one)
 
from that link...(which i'm disapointed won't ship to the us! they want like $200 for a brick of nottingham here! :()


This yeast is var. diastaticus.

which means it will ferment more complex sugars...and be sure to give it time, or you might get bottle bombs....(i was about to ask what the og was...but of course you don't know lol, and i'm still waiting on that aquarium hydro to compare to my SG one)
Wow $200 is a very unfair price.
You really like that yeast and want to order?
If yes I am giving you my Chinese suppliers link , the one who supplied me CS31. But be patient from China to reach US it will take some time. And the shipping for US customers is free I think.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKanQxk
 
Wow $200 is a very unfair price.
You really like that yeast and want to order?
If yes I am giving you my Chinese suppliers link , the one who supplied me CS31. But be patient from China to reach US it will take some time. And the shipping for US customers is free I think.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKanQxk


WHOA DUDE! at $9.50 a 12g pack that's $400 for a 500g brick! thanks for trying though! i'm always looking for cost saving measures, that's just not going to be one of them! :mug:
 
and whats with the double decker pots? and sanke keg? just don't want flies in it? i mean at this point, just leave it in the boil kettle with the CFC running at the right temp?
If using traditional Yorkshire yeast, which are highly flocculant with a tendency to sit under and on top of the wort, i.e. not suspended in the wort, rousing promotes a better fermentation. By getting them back in the wort. The yeast trough automatically traps healthy yeast too, which makes harvesting the freshest yeast a complete doddle.

download.jpeg

685381-IMG-0391.jpeg
 
Sorry lol my bad.
I thought they are selling you a 12g pack for $200.



feels like it's their next step...but no when i started brewing it was $1.3 a pack, then i got into yeast harvesting...next thing i know they want 5-6$'s for a pack!

if this doesn't suit you...try wine yeast...i used it and just thought it had kinda of a watery mouth feel to it....
 
If using traditional Yorkshire yeast, which are highly flocculant with a tendency to sit under and on top of the wort, i.e. not suspended in the wort, rousing promotes a better fermentation. By getting them back in the wort. The yeast trough automatically traps healthy yeast too, which makes harvesting the freshest yeast a complete doddle.

View attachment 769687
View attachment 769688


SOOOO, what you're telling me if i hear LodO too many times, this is my blow back at them? :mug:
 
SOOOO, what you're telling me if i hear LodO too many times, this is my blow back at them? :mug:
Not necessarily, as recirculation occurs for a minute or so every few hours during active fermentation when CO2 is being released at a high rate.
 
feels like it's their next step...but no when i started brewing it was $1.3 a pack, then i got into yeast harvesting...next thing i know they want 5-6$'s for a pack!

if this doesn't suit you...try wine yeast...i used it and just thought it had kinda of a watery mouth feel to it....
I am planning to use mine in perpetuity ,like ancient people😂
If not in perpetuity then atleast for the next two batches.
Or will buy cheaper bricks from chinese suppliers. I've seen some for like 3500 RS . But they are in Chinese language so no way to tell they are for ales ,lagers or other info.
They only tell whether its a grain based yeast(beers) or fruit based yeast(wines)
 
I am planning to use mine in perpetuity ,like ancient people😂
If not in perpetuity then atleast for the next two batches.
Or will buy cheaper bricks from chinese suppliers. I've seen some for like 3500 RS . But they are in Chinese language so no way to tell they are for ales ,lagers or other info.
They only tell whether its a grain based yeast(beers) or fruit based yeast(wines)


i can't tell if this is the supplement or actual yeast? only a $1 a 50g pack though?

https://www.daraz.pk/products/brewe...null__28557__null__0.0__0.0________null__null
edit: never mind, looked it up...and noticed the writing at the bottom.... :(


edit 2: maybe i just don't know how to join your underground here's an interesting one?

https://www.daraz.pk/products/100-i...0e.searchlist.list.52.48e2760abr3o2H&search=1
 
Last edited:
i can't tell if this is the supplement or actual yeast? only a $1 a 50g pack though?

https://www.daraz.pk/products/brewe...null__28557__null__0.0__0.0________null__null
edit: never mind, looked it up...and noticed the writing at the bottom.... :(


edit 2: maybe i just don't know how to join your underground here's an interesting one?

https://www.daraz.pk/products/100-i...0e.searchlist.list.52.48e2760abr3o2H&search=1
I think a dietary supplement or nutritional yeast for lactating mothers(still useful for me though 😉😂)
The seller claims it can be used for fermentation but without any brewing info its as good as a bakers yeast.
 
I think a dietary supplement or nutritional yeast for lactating mothers(still useful for me though 😉😂)


speaking of folate, ever since talking to you...i've been craving a huge plate of chickpeas! ;) (or is that another misconception i have?)

but back on the original question, all i have to really offer is what i said....top fermenting is called top fermenting because people didn't even know what it was, and it got brown patches on top....bottom fermenting didn't...at least that's my understanding, if you look at the side of a glass carboy while fermenting, you can see either way the co2 bubbles are all through it.....?


i once HAD to use lager yeast out of nessecity, because my indoor temps were like 50f...and ale yeast wasn't fermenting...
 
speaking of folate, ever since talking to you...i've been craving a huge plate of chickpeas! ;) (or is that another misconception i have?)
Again I am lost 😁
but back on the original question, all i have to really offer is what i said....top fermenting is called top fermenting because people didn't even know what it was, and it got brown patches on top....bottom fermenting didn't...at least that's my understanding, if you look at the side of a glass carboy while fermenting, you can see either way the co2 bubbles are all through it.....?
Yes exactly. There are brown patches on the lid cover of my plastic bucket and there are bubbles on the sides.
 
speaking of folate, ever since talking to you...i've been craving a huge plate of chickpeas! ;) (or is that another misconception i have?)

but back on the original question, all i have to really offer is what i said....top fermenting is called top fermenting because people didn't even know what it was, and it got brown patches on top....bottom fermenting didn't...at least that's my understanding, if you look at the side of a glass carboy while fermenting, you can see either way the co2 bubbles are all through it.....?


i once HAD to use lager yeast out of nessecity, because my indoor temps were like 50f...and ale yeast wasn't fermenting...
You can actually those brown patches from outside in the pic below.
 

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Again I am lost 😁

garbanzo beans? with a super duper spicy thick sauce? maybe cumin, turmeric, paprika, etc, etc...and really good!

Yes exactly. There are brown patches on the lid cover of my plastic bucket and there are bubbles on the sides.

then i'd think it's top fermenting....usually lager yeast aren't active enough for those signs.....
 
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