Too much grain ending up in my boil kettle

[n3lson1]

I recently upgraded my 10G Igloo (round) Cooler Mash Tun from braided hose to a domed false bottom (https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/fb9d.htm).
My efficiency went from 60% to 80%! Awesomeness!!
Anyway while running off I noticed I was getting alot of pieces of grain into my boil kettle, since I was makimg a porter I am a bit worried that this may lead too some more astringency I do not want.
Does anyone have good fix for this or any pointers?
I was thinking of coiling the old threaded hose underneath the false bottom to avoid this from happening?

Thanks and cheers!

 

[Jaybird]

That could work. But how hard are you doing your initial recirculation? Most people I talk to don't run hard enough or fast enough to REALLY set that grain bed for fear of getting a stuck mash or collapsing the FB. But in reality you really need to hammer down! Run as fast as you can and really get that bed set and the FB cleared of grain from under it.

Good luck!

Cheers
Jay

 

[BobBailey]

With the larger area of the false bottom you probably need to increase the Vorlauf volume. Vorlauf until no visible solids are present in the line.

 

[corax]

Or just don't worry about it. The wort is acidic enough that you won't extract tannins, and depending on what you mean by "a lot", the grains should get trapped in the hops and hot break, and not make it to the fermenter.

If boiling grains was a problem, decoction mashing would be a disaster.

 

[Genuine]

Definitely make sure that your vorleauf quite a bit. I went to a recirculating system and that has helped clear up the wort. I have a 4 cup pyrex measuring cup that I use when I vorleauf before starting to recirculate. I fill that up about 4-6 times (or when it looks clearer).

 

[corax]

I recently upgraded my 10G Igloo (round) Cooler Mash Tun from braided hose to a domed false bottom (https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/fb9d.htm).
My efficiency went from 60% to 80%! Awesomeness!!

I now exclusively do no-sparge mashes, but when I batch-sparged I got my highest mash efficiencies (high 80s) with a short hose braid. My first hose braid was long, and serpentined around the bottom of the cooler, and my efficiency would vary all over the place. I finally figured out that the braid was so long that it would sometimes lift off the bottom, leaving a ton of dead space that would not drain. When I switched to a 4-inch braid, which stays in place much better, the efficiency became reproducibly high.

This would only work for batch-sparging or no-sparge, where draining at a single point is not a problem. For fly-sparging, you'd want more uniform draining, which your false bottom should be able to provide.

 

[n3lson1]

That could work. But how hard are you doing your initial recirculation? Most people I talk to don't run hard enough or fast enough to REALLY set that grain bed for fear of getting a stuck mash or collapsing the FB. But in reality you really need to hammer down! Run as fast as you can and really get that bed set and the FB cleared of grain from under it.

Good luck!

Cheers
Jay

I don't recirulate, just batch sparge, but what your saying is start fast then dial it back a quartish threw runoff?
Thanks
Erik

 

[day_trippr]

I would first determine if grains are simply scooting around the perimeter of the false bottom, while keeping in mind that these Rubbermaid liners can warp when hot.

When I was using a 10g Rubbermaid I solved that problem using silicone stripping I picked up from McMaster-Carr that had a profile that worked perfectly. It totally wedges the FB to the side walls with plenty of compliance to take up warpage. Plus it doesn't rely on FB contact with the bottom of the liner - which tends to warp before the side walls do.

Bobby_M was trying to get a line on this stuff but ran into a wall...

(original thread here, missing pictures here)

Cheers!

 

[Sparkncode]

I use a similar false bottom in my herms system and can run my pump at full speed which sets the grain bed nice, no issues with grain getting through. I had problems initially with the false bottom sucking down and blocking the pickup tube but some fileing with a round file fixed that so the pickup acts as its own spacer and cannot seal against the bottom of my pot, dont rely on curvature of thr false bottom to keep the pickup off the bottom. I may have an advantage over a plastic cooler as the bottom of my stainless pot/ MT doesn't warp like plastic can which could effect the seal. My false bottom sits with no silicon seals on the bottom with no issues. I don't do an excessivly fine crush so that probably helps too.

 

[smarch0]

If you have money to throw at the problem, do the runoff through a 300 Micron Stainless Steel dry hop container / hop spider. That will catch any visible grain.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/fastferment-stainless-steel-hop-filter.html

 

[CircaChris]

As stated run the wort and slowly pour back into the MT until running clearer. Use a sterilized pyrex measuring cup or a large wide mouth mason jar like I do. This should help. I have also heard that using rice hulls in the mash helps to settle the grain bed, keeping more of the grain above and less in the final wort while also allowing for more of the wort to pass through. I have not used this rice hull technique but will some day in the future. Apparently it adds no off flavors to the brew just keeps your wort flowing faster and cleaner.

Or alternatively..... just grab a normal sanitized kitchen strainer and run the MT dump hose through into your BK. (This seems the cheaper quick fix but doesn't actually fix any efficiency issues, not that you have any)

 

[Sparkncode]

Use a sterilized pyrex measuring cup or a large wide mouth mason jar like I do.

Using steralised equipment in the mash phase seams unnecessary.
The boil kills everything.

 

[pvpeacock]

I stopped using my hop spider for hops and now use it as a grain spider post mash. I just set it in the boil kettle and put the hose from the mash tun into it. After a few vorlaufs, I just crank open the ball valve on the mash tun all the way and drain it. I do the same for a single batch sparge. Voila, no grains in the boil kettle.

 

[Blazinlow86]

My buddy used the same style FB and also puts a stainless steel scrubbing pad underneath the underside to help . My first keggle setup also used the same type FB but I never noticed any issues after vorlaufing a few times. i got annoyed after my first few brews outside and built a new electric indoor system and went up to 1/2 barrel with a jaybird false bottom

 

[homebrewer_99]

I stopped using false bottoms long ago and went to a stainless steel braided hose.

Inside my brew pot I attach a paint strainer bag (with a spring loaded clothes pin). Inside the bag is a hose that I attach to the mash tun (cooler). The bag catches any grain particles that make it through the hose.

EDIT: I may not have explained that quite right...I attach the tubing after Vorlauf and re-circulation and it reaches the bottom of the pot.

TIP: I use 2 (plastic) beer pitchers for Vorlauf and re-circulation.

 

[JohnSand]

Or add a bag to your cooler.

 

[homebrewer_99]

Or add a bag to your cooler.

I tried that, but I broke my stirrer in the process...not enough "fluidity" in the bag.

 

[JohnSand]

Sorry about that. What were you using to stir?

 

[n3lson1]

I would first determine if grains are simply scooting around the perimeter of the false bottom, while keeping in mind that these Rubbermaid liners can warp when hot.

When I was using a 10g Rubbermaid I solved that problem using silicone stripping I picked up from McMaster-Carr that had a profile that worked perfectly. It totally wedges the FB to the side walls with plenty of compliance to take up warpage. Plus it doesn't rely on FB contact with the bottom of the liner - which tends to warp before the side walls do.

Bobby_M was trying to get a line on this stuff but ran into a wall...

(original thread here, missing pictures here)

Cheers!

Do you have a part number or a link for this?

 

[day_trippr]

Yup - it's all in the first post of the linked thread...

Cheers!

 

[homebrewer_99]

Sorry about that. What were you using to stir?

The standard long handled plastic stirrer.

I have a large wooden one from when I bought out one guys equipment. Never used it. It's too large for my equipment. Reminds me more like a wall decoration than something I will ever use. Looks nice.

 

[JohnSand]

Some guys love fancy mash paddles. You could probably sell or trade it, or bring it to a meeting and give it away. I use a big wooden spoon that I bought cheap.

 

[homebrewer_99]

Some guys love fancy mash paddles. You could probably sell or trade it, or bring it to a meeting and give it away. I use a big wooden spoon that I bought cheap.

What meeting? LOL! I haven't been a HB Club member since 1997. When I was I only went to 1 meeting and won Best of Show and Best of Style in the only HB contest I ever entered.

At the time I lived 52 miles away. I drink at home.

 

[CircaChris]

Using steralised equipment in the mash phase seams unnecessary.
The boil kills everything.

Using sterilized equipment pre boil may appear overkill to you, but ever since we have found organisms and bacteria that survive in the sulfuric acid of your stomach (md's now prescribe antibiotics for ulcers and other stomach issues) as well as in boiling water conditions at the bottom of oceans where lava is consistently flowing and cooling; I play safe rather then sorry, in NYC there is too much bacteria just drifting about and I personally am not taking chances with it drifting n my brew.

I always have a full bucket of sanitizer ready for brew day anyhow, so whats a dip of a jar in the bucket actually hurting or costing?

 

[LarMoeCur]

8 dollar racking cain filter on the outlet hose from your mash tun works like a charm at stopping grain husks.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/racking-cane-filter.html

 

[kh54s10]

First, I would determine how the grains are getting past the false bottom. Second, vorlaufing more should set the bed and the wort should be clear. Third, unless it is a large amount of grain husks getting through there should be no problem. Still getting too many husks, go back to #1