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To Brew a Baseline Ale

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BillyMojo

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I propose that I do this. Brew a baseline ale, that may not be exactly the color or flavor or mouthfeel or any of the qualities of target ... just to come up with a starting point from which to tweak toward a custom ale in future batches. But not to waste good ingredients, I want it at least to be drinkable and enjoyable to as much extent possible. I search for feedback. Please point out serious red-flags anywhere in my concept.

Now I'm just thinking about this, not going to try it on the next batch but on down the road ... wort constructed completely from DME and a 'wet hop' along with keeping the hop sack in the primary.

First question is this ... for a five gallon batch, how many pounds of DME would be the appropriate starting point to achieve about 6% ABV? Flavor and color concerns be damned, for those would be variable only on hop and malt and to an extent yeast variety ...

my plan is probably obvious to experienced homebrewers.

I've read on here that DME by weight is comparable as 80% to LME.

4 lbs then of LME is roughly then relaced by 3 lbs of DME (that's 75% on the button) eazzy math.

1 oz. hops in a sack, boiled in the water when the DME is dissolved. (disregard hop type or flavor) then keep the hop sack in the fermenter.

Additionally, for a little adjunct, 1/2 lb of honey or molasses in the wort. (again disregard color or flavor)


Follow all strict and correct sanitation.

Use Dechlorinated bottled water.

Bring six quarts of water to a boil. shut off heat. drop hop sack with 1 oz. pellet hops into water, along with 3 lb DME. stir to dissolve.

Once DME is dissolved, raise temp back to boiling. Once boiling is reached, shut off heat. stir in 1/2 lb adjunct (honey or molasses .. remember flavor and color are not of concern just yet).



{There are still 3 1/2 gallons of water (14 quarts) refrigerated at this point. I'll use that later, but for now I need a bout 8 oz. of it to be at ~70 degrees}


use that 8 oz. 70 degree water to hydrate ~12 grams of "any ale yeast" (read Safale)


pour the reamining bottled water into primary fermenter (3 1/2 gallons minus the 8 oz. used to hydrate yeast)

pour wort (including hop sack) into fermenter with the water. stir to aerate. verify fermenter wort temperature "safe" to pitch yeast.

Once yeast is hydrated, pitch into fermenter.

Seal fermenter with airlock in place. It should be full to the 5 US gallon level.

Observe and document for at least 10 days.

Wait another four days to do anything. Once the primary/secondary fermenting has been allowed to run for 14 days, bottle.

Sanitized bottles, with PRECISELY 1/2 teaspoon plain old granulated table sugar in each, carefully not allowing any aeration ... fill to about 1 1/2" with beer and cap.

Place bottles in standard 6-pack carriers, place 4 carriers each in corrugated cardboard "case carrier" boxes.

Hide boxes in temperature controlled (65-75 degrees farenheit) environment for 21 days.

now the calendar has elapsed an entire five weeks since cooking wort.

take one six-pack carrier to the fridge. let it sit and chill to ~40 degrees farenheit.

open a bottle and pour it off into a pint glass.

taste it, and figure out how to make the next batch taste better.

Should this work?
 
ok....my head hurts. you'd think i read on of my own posts.

what you just explained is a very non-descript basic brew. there are a few flaws to what you listed which i will get to but instead of just trying to reinvent the wheel...why not just find a recipe that resembles a clone or basic ale and do that. also, what's the obsession with the hop sack?

1...you need about 7.25lbs of DME for a 5 gal batch to get to 6% ABV. 4 isn't going to cut it

2...your volumes. you are not accounting for boil off and wort left over atop the lees. you won't end up with 5 gallons of wort/finished beer

3...your priming. if you add sugar to bottles, you might not be 100% accurate. its better to add your priming sugar to the whole batch and then dispense to bottles.

4...you say " Once the primary/secondary fermenting has been allowed to run for 14 days, bottle" the problem is that you have only done primary. that's fine...but you didn't do a secondary if you didn't rack it off the lees so don't confuse the term.

5...you make no mention of gravity readings. airlock activity is not a real substitute for knowing what's going on with the gravity.

6...this could be a very one note beer. honey or molasses will impart some flavor but you are depending on the DME for most of it. be ready to drink something that might taste like a sweet coors light (for example)
 
thank you very much KURTISM you have no idea how much thanks i give you. this is EXACTLY the feedback I'm looking for!
 
If you can measure priming sugar by weight, not volume and as said before batch priming is usualy more consistent than bottle priming. ( and easier)
 
3 lbs. Munton's Hopped Light DME
3 lbs. Munton's Plain Amber DME
boiled 2 gal. bottled water.
shut off heat.
reconstituted all 6 lbs. DME.
mixed into fermenter with cold bottled water for final volume of 4 gallons.

hydrated 14g of regular Munton's (2 packs, yellow package) yeast in 2 cups preboiled bottle water, @ 70 degrees, let 'hydrate' for 15 minutes.

4 gallon wort temperature 70 degrees, specific gravity 1.070, stirred vigorously and pitched yeast.

Airlock Activity after just two hours. One good bubble every 30 seconds or so. Fermenter stored in room at 70 degree ambient.

as of 5:20 PM on January 26, 2012 we are nearing 46 hours in primary fermenter. Airlock activity has slowed to the point that I don't have the obsession to sit and wait for a bubble. Fermenting room ambient temp. has been regulated never below 65 degrees Farenheit and never above 72 degrees Farenheit.

I intend not to even disturb the fermenter until 14 days post yeast-pitch. Then I'll measure specific gravity. Here's where the first question comes. Should I rather take a gravity reading at day 12, then another at day 13, and another at day 14 to see if fermentation is done?

I intend also to allow the yeast to clean things up for at least 5 more days after "final" gravity is reached. Is that not a good idea?

I will batch prime with an appropriate weight of cane sugar dissolved in boiled bottle water, then bottle in 12 oz. bottles, and allow these to condition/carbonate in the same 65-72 degree room for at least 14 days before refigerating a couple of bottles to get a taste.

5 Week Ale.

Errors in my intentions?
 

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