Tips on brewing ESB

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Velnerj

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Hey folks,

I've got an ESB in my brewing to do list, realized I don't have that much experience brewing (or even drinking) this style.

What are some tips and tricks you've experienced with this style to get it dialed in to your liking?

I'm not necessarily looking for a recipe, though key ingredients are welcome. But also interested in process and/or techniques that can improve the finished product. I.e. Favorite yeast(s), Fermentation temp, boil length, hop schedule, carbonation levels, serving temp etc.

It be cool to pick some of your brains as I expect it's a popular style on this site.

TIA!
 
Like many styles, one must decide first whether they are brewing the style as brewed in its original place and culture or as interpreted by American craft brewers.

An American ESB is a style, largely an amber with UK ingredients. The ESB in the UK is a specific beer made by Fullers that can be categorized as a strong bitter.

Which one are you interested in brewing?
 
You'll get plenty of use these ingredients, but that's not what you asked. I do an English style brew for teach a buddy to brew day,this year a ordinary bitter. I use all Proximity malts and have found (for me at least) that if I mash at 154* for 45 min (full volume BIAB) pull fire the burner and squeeze I get a very malty but dry beer. I use Notty for fermenting and use the cake for my Black Friday RIS.
Well couldn't help it,Proximity makes a crystal 150 that works really well in English beers.
 
Having drunk British beer for over 50 years here my 2 cents worth.
1. Keep the recipe simple, max 3 malts, ie Maris otter or pale malt, a medium crystal malt, and optional wheat or Torrefied wheat.
2. English hops but only 2 varieties I’d go for Challenger and EKG.
3. An English yeast, I have no knowledge of wet yeast so S04 or Nottingham.
4. Keep the ABV below 6%, Fullers ESB is 5.9% but 5.5% would be acceptable.

ESB tends to be a southern beer ie London so find a water profile for London water.
 
Coincidently I came across this page. Seems on point...

https://homebrewacademy.com/extra-special-bitter-recipe/
fwiw, I brew an "English" ESB using Pearl and MO for base malts, with some Dingemans Biscuit, some Simpson's Medium Crystal (65L), a bit of Munton's Caramel (170L), with Fuggle and EKG hops, and pitched with S04.

60 point OG, 11 point FG, 42 IBUs, 13 SRM, carb'd to just 2~2.1 volumes. Looks and tastes like any prototypical English ESB...

Cheers!
 
For English beers, use English maltsters, especially for crystal.
+∞ .

Around 2018, my (now defunct) home brew club did a "hot steep" (link) for a range of 'american' and 'british' crystal malts (unfortunately, I don't remember the specific brands). The differences are noticeable. Since then, I've noticed the differences in 'american' brands of crystal - so when I'm attempting to replicate a craft beer from the west coast (e.g. Moose Drool), I tend to use Great Western over Briess ( tagging @landmissle ).
 
I'm certainly not above being a knuckle-dragger, but what is the difference between American and English Crystals?
To me, American caramel malts taste one-dimensional. Mildly sweet brown sugar for light ones, burnt sugar for dark ones. English crystal is like caramel/toffee/rum raisin all rolled into one. Chew a handful of each next time you’ve got the opportunity to taste them side by side!
 
I seldom brew strong bitters. When I do, I always remind myself to never go above 5% on the C-malt, it just clutters up the beer and makes it a drag to choke down. I'm a lot happier at 2.5% on my UK ales that don't have dark roasted malts drying out all that C-malt body. Less C-malt makes for a much more guzzle-able beer--which is what UK beers are designed to be.

My advice:

1) Use a milder tasting UK pale ale malt to establish the grist. I really like Warminster Otter in this role. Writing from the US, the Simpsons and Crisp Otter that we get really needs a bit of adjunct dilution once the gravity passes 1.045. They're both *very* full-throated malts. If you can't get Warminster, Golden Promise is a good alternative, it's very flavorful but won't overbearingly dominate the grist. If you can only get Crisp or Simpsons, just substitute a pound, maybe 1.5lbs, of US 2row. That'll take the edge off, without compromising their contribution.

You might be tempted to toss in some Amber malt, but trust your UK base malt. It has more than enough flavor. Leave your amber malt for darker ales.

2) Don't be creative. A good UK pale malt, UK hops, and a flavorful UK yeast like Pub, '69, or WY1468 will get you where you want to be--once you've established that, you can start messing around on your second batch. I would avoid most other strains (unless you're a degenerate and you like Ringwood) because they're all kinda lifeless with homebrew techniques.

Also, no, 85 IBU isn't going to make your ESB amazing, we've already tried that. It sucks. Balance is your friend. Once you've found that, then you can explore a bit. An ounce of EKGs at 60, 1oz at 20, and an ounce at 5-KO is pushing it close to redline. A half ounce of keg hops is plenty, a quarter ounce will get the job done. I used to use a smaller charge of Target or Challenger at 60, but I prefer a larger charge of EKGs/Fuggles/etc. I can't prove this, but I think a larger 60min charge makes for a better beer.

2a) UK hops in the US are really hit or miss. Good EKGs are amazing, but hard to come by. You might want to use Willamette hops instead. They're actually Fuggles descendants, but are often much better than the passed-over-and-passed-over-and-passed over by UK buyers tripe that we get in the US. If you go the US route, pay attention to your AA's, US hops tend to throw down a few more IBUs.

3) Corn, yes corn. I would suggest using .5-1lb of flaked corn. In larger UK ales it provides a very subtle, very thin sweetness that isn't particularly sweet until you find it within the beer, then you really appreciate it. Its primary role, though, is to make the beer light on the tongue and quaffable. It keeps it from being too heavy while leaving that amazing lingering corn sweetness. If I'm brewing a light colored UK ale above 1.045, usually I'm using corn. You know how the Belgians use sugar to boost gravity without making it cloying? It's like that. Given how flavorful most UK malts are, once you get above 1.050, they need a bit of dilution to keep them light on the tongue. Corn is great at doing that.

4) So color... We taste with the eye as much as with the tongue, so this *is* important. In the past, I used to use Sinamar. Unfortunately, it's hard to come by these days and very expensive. As such, I now like to use .5-1oz of Midnight Wheat in this role--it's cheap and it does the job! It's very flavor neutral in those quantities. Also, remember, that the UK bottled beers that we get over here are badly damaged by travel. They're a lot darker and a lot flubbier than they are in the UK. You only need a hint of coloring, just like the UK brewers do with their caramel coloring.

5) Invert sugar, in my opinion, is the key tool in UK ales. Contemporary UK brewers seem to be hardnosed in their rejection of adjuncts in much the same way that US brewers were back in the 80's and 90's. As a US brewer, I think it's adorable to see our UK brethren throwing their little tantrum. Joking aside, invert sugars provide a lot of the flavor that crystal malts add to a beer, but they're fermentable so they don't leave that horrible, cloying body behind. I like to use them because you get to add flavor without paying the heavy body tax. Again, think like a Belgian-- max flavor and max lightness. Yeah, an ESB is substantially bigger than run of the mill bitters, but that doesn't mean it has to be a slog to drink. The whole point of the bitter style is drinkability, right? If you want a fat sipper, brew a Burton Ale, an October Beer, or a Wee Heavy. Use sugar in your ESB to keep it slammable.

As mentioned above, I don't brew many ESBs, so I've never used invert sugars in an ESB recipe. That said, I'd say 1lb of invert #2 would do you a lot of good, a 1/2lb of invert #3 would provide a touch of color and some background flavor depth. If you go that route, delete the corn I mentioned.

6) Finally, C-malts. Use one from the UK and use the smallest amount possible. You want an ESB to be rich and full, yet drinkable. To me this suggest a darker C-malt in a small quantity. I mostly use UK 50/60 in my UK ales, for ESB, I prefer UK 60/70 and I prefer to keep it around 2.5%. The less used the better.

7) When you mash, remember it's a big beer. Mash low. I brew a lot of tiny UK beers and I seldom mash above 152F. UK malts were designed for UK beers. They'll give you all the body you need if you brew them with standard techniques. There's no need to mash them at 158F--unless you want them to taste like they have too much C-malt.

8) For the love of the Great Pumpkin, don't Burtonize your water. Just don't. Seventy calcium, 100 sulfate, and less than 100 chloride should get the job done. I like to keep my pH on the high side throughout the brew day because UK ale yeast aggressively lower the finished ale's pH, typically around 3.9-4.0. They can get a bit tart, if you let them, so I like to elevate my pH a bit.

9) If you want a big fat slob of a US ESB, go with two row to 1.055, then add 1-1.5lbs of C-120, and hop it with Mt. Hood and Willamette like you're all outa F's to give. Sing Rule, Britannia! while kegging it to make it extra special good. If you had to google Rule, Britannia! stop what you're doing and call it a red IPA because people like you deserve to drink red IPAs. If that makes you feel sad, just don't do anything that I've described in this paragraph and you should be okay.

Well, that's some of the stuff that I know.

I hope this was useful to you.
 
Good sum up, thanks. I don't know if you get other corn varieties there over the pond, but ours don't leave any subtle sweetness. It leaves corn flavour though and that's something you usually don't want in a bitter, unless you want to brew a corny bitter.
 
Good sum up, thanks. I don't know if you get other corn varieties there over the pond, but ours don't leave any subtle sweetness. It leaves corn flavour though and that's something you usually don't want in a bitter, unless you want to brew a corny bitter.
That's an interesting point and it raises questions about contemporary field (European and N. American feedstock corn) and N. American table/sweet corn--something that I'm told isn't common in the EU. I could be wrong about that, I haven't been home to see the family in Spain in thirty years, so I really don't know.

Yeah, I don't know the answer to that, I assume that most, if not all, US corn made for brewers is sweet corn to maximize its potential? I do know that we can freely substitute flaked corn made for brewing with grits (a kind of N. American polenta) and corn marketed as polenta without affecting our efficiency. That seems to point toward N. American corn as being sweet/table corn. Perhaps the corn used in EU brewing is field corn?

Yeah, I don't know the answer to that.

Nevertheless, I do know that you were an active participant in the great Mild Ale/Invert Sugar thread from a few years back, so I think I can assume you know about the long, long established use of corn, even sometimes rice, in the UK brewing tradition, right? They've been doing that since the passage of the Free Mash Tun Act. And...well, now that I think of it, the whole point of that was using imported mash goods. Hmm...

Interesting. Yeah, you might be on to something.

If that's the case, it's a damned shame you can't get your hands on our corn. It's quite useful stuff, when used correctly.
 
That's an interesting point and it raises questions about contemporary field (European and N. American feedstock corn) and N. American table/sweet corn--something that I'm told isn't common in the EU. I could be wrong about that, I haven't been home to see the family in Spain in thirty years, so I really don't know.

Yeah, I don't know the answer to that, I assume that most, if not all, US corn made for brewers is sweet corn to maximize its potential? I do know that we can freely substitute flaked corn made for brewing with grits (a kind of N. American polenta) and corn marketed as polenta without affecting our efficiency. That seems to point toward N. American corn as being sweet/table corn. Perhaps the corn used in EU brewing is field corn?

Yeah, I don't know the answer to that.

Nevertheless, I do know that you were an active participant in the great Mild Ale/Invert Sugar thread from a few years back, so I think I can assume you know about the long, long established use of corn, even sometimes rice, in the UK brewing tradition, right? They've been doing that since the passage of the Free Mash Tun Act. And...well, now that I think of it, the whole point of that was using imported mash goods. Hmm...

Interesting. Yeah, you might be on to something.

If that's the case, it's a damned shame you can't get your hands on our corn. It's quite useful stuff, when used correctly.
Thanks again for the information!

Yes, I know that corn was used in the past. What I tried to say with "unless you want to brew a corny bitter" was meant to refer to that. I must admit, in hinsight, it is not possible to see that when reading my short post, which I created directly after waking up, sorry for that missing part of vital information and thanks for adding that.

I think nowadays corn is not used much except from maybe one or two beers that want to do things differently to stand out in the UK. I think the most common adjunct is invert and flaked barley or torrified wheat.

Corn certainly has it's place, especially when trying to recreate historic beers or if you really want the flavour contribution. I explored corn a little bit myself by brewing fairly clean lagers with it, only corn and pale base and I must admit, I do not like the flavour part it plays. For everybody who is curious what I am talking about, get yourself a Corona from the can (not the light struck glas bottle) and there you have the flavour.

I am sure, if one likes that particular flavour, it can be integrated in a bitter, just not for me. I'd happily substitute any corn with rice. In fact, I have a rice ale in the fermenter right now, to see if rice contributes any flavour. Kind of the same thing I did with corn a few years ago, just with more hops this time and US05 instead of 3470.
 
I'm certainly not above being a knuckle-dragger, but what is the difference between American and English Crystals?

I think there's something to be said about terroir in malt. Different varieties of barley, different growing conditions, soil, etc. Does that mean you can't sub US crystal? Of course not. Maybe you wouldn't even notice. But I tend to lean toward authenticity. If it's a UK style, I strive for using UK ingredients. Belgian beers get Belgian malts, and so forth.

IMO, the base malt selection is just as important, if not more. Sorry, but US 2-row is not the same as MO in a British brew.

At the end of the day, it's your beer. If you want to add a twist with some other malt, then go for it! And if you have 10 lbs. of Briess 2-row left over from the last brew, then work with what you have.
 
not the same
I'm very aware of the widely and strongly held view that Maris Otter is quite different from American 2-row malts.

My palate is apparently not sensitive enough to benefit from the distinctiveness enjoyed by so many folks. I certainly respect the opinions of those who can detect subtleties (apparently not subtle to some) that pass me by.

Ingredients are crucial. I do like the idea of using geographically appropriate ingredients for particular styles; but, for me, other factors seem more important to my experience of the beers I brew.
 
I seldom brew strong bitters. When I do, I always remind myself to never go above 5% on the C-malt, it just clutters up the beer and makes it a drag to choke down. I'm a lot happier at 2.5% on my UK ales that don't have dark roasted malts drying out all that C-malt body. Less C-malt makes for a much more guzzle-able beer--which is what UK beers are designed to be.

My advice:

1) Use a milder tasting UK pale ale malt to establish the grist. I really like Warminster Otter in this role. Writing from the US, the Simpsons and Crisp Otter that we get really needs a bit of adjunct dilution once the gravity passes 1.045. They're both *very* full-throated malts. If you can't get Warminster, Golden Promise is a good alternative, it's very flavorful but won't overbearingly dominate the grist. If you can only get Crisp or Simpsons, just substitute a pound, maybe 1.5lbs, of US 2row. That'll take the edge off, without compromising their contribution.

You might be tempted to toss in some Amber malt, but trust your UK base malt. It has more than enough flavor. Leave your amber malt for darker ales.

2) Don't be creative. A good UK pale malt, UK hops, and a flavorful UK yeast like Pub, '69, or WY1468 will get you where you want to be--once you've established that, you can start messing around on your second batch. I would avoid most other strains (unless you're a degenerate and you like Ringwood) because they're all kinda lifeless with homebrew techniques.

Also, no, 85 IBU isn't going to make your ESB amazing, we've already tried that. It sucks. Balance is your friend. Once you've found that, then you can explore a bit. An ounce of EKGs at 60, 1oz at 20, and an ounce at 5-KO is pushing it close to redline. A half ounce of keg hops is plenty, a quarter ounce will get the job done. I used to use a smaller charge of Target or Challenger at 60, but I prefer a larger charge of EKGs/Fuggles/etc. I can't prove this, but I think a larger 60min charge makes for a better beer.

2a) UK hops in the US are really hit or miss. Good EKGs are amazing, but hard to come by. You might want to use Willamette hops instead. They're actually Fuggles descendants, but are often much better than the passed-over-and-passed-over-and-passed over by UK buyers tripe that we get in the US. If you go the US route, pay attention to your AA's, US hops tend to throw down a few more IBUs.

3) Corn, yes corn. I would suggest using .5-1lb of flaked corn. In larger UK ales it provides a very subtle, very thin sweetness that isn't particularly sweet until you find it within the beer, then you really appreciate it. Its primary role, though, is to make the beer light on the tongue and quaffable. It keeps it from being too heavy while leaving that amazing lingering corn sweetness. If I'm brewing a light colored UK ale above 1.045, usually I'm using corn. You know how the Belgians use sugar to boost gravity without making it cloying? It's like that. Given how flavorful most UK malts are, once you get above 1.050, they need a bit of dilution to keep them light on the tongue. Corn is great at doing that.

4) So color... We taste with the eye as much as with the tongue, so this *is* important. In the past, I used to use Sinamar. Unfortunately, it's hard to come by these days and very expensive. As such, I now like to use .5-1oz of Midnight Wheat in this role--it's cheap and it does the job! It's very flavor neutral in those quantities. Also, remember, that the UK bottled beers that we get over here are badly damaged by travel. They're a lot darker and a lot flubbier than they are in the UK. You only need a hint of coloring, just like the UK brewers do with their caramel coloring.

5) Invert sugar, in my opinion, is the key tool in UK ales. Contemporary UK brewers seem to be hardnosed in their rejection of adjuncts in much the same way that US brewers were back in the 80's and 90's. As a US brewer, I think it's adorable to see our UK brethren throwing their little tantrum. Joking aside, invert sugars provide a lot of the flavor that crystal malts add to a beer, but they're fermentable so they don't leave that horrible, cloying body behind. I like to use them because you get to add flavor without paying the heavy body tax. Again, think like a Belgian-- max flavor and max lightness. Yeah, an ESB is substantially bigger than run of the mill bitters, but that doesn't mean it has to be a slog to drink. The whole point of the bitter style is drinkability, right? If you want a fat sipper, brew a Burton Ale, an October Beer, or a Wee Heavy. Use sugar in your ESB to keep it slammable.

As mentioned above, I don't brew many ESBs, so I've never used invert sugars in an ESB recipe. That said, I'd say 1lb of invert #2 would do you a lot of good, a 1/2lb of invert #3 would provide a touch of color and some background flavor depth. If you go that route, delete the corn I mentioned.

6) Finally, C-malts. Use one from the UK and use the smallest amount possible. You want an ESB to be rich and full, yet drinkable. To me this suggest a darker C-malt in a small quantity. I mostly use UK 50/60 in my UK ales, for ESB, I prefer UK 60/70 and I prefer to keep it around 2.5%. The less used the better.

7) When you mash, remember it's a big beer. Mash low. I brew a lot of tiny UK beers and I seldom mash above 152F. UK malts were designed for UK beers. They'll give you all the body you need if you brew them with standard techniques. There's no need to mash them at 158F--unless you want them to taste like they have too much C-malt.

8) For the love of the Great Pumpkin, don't Burtonize your water. Just don't. Seventy calcium, 100 sulfate, and less than 100 chloride should get the job done. I like to keep my pH on the high side throughout the brew day because UK ale yeast aggressively lower the finished ale's pH, typically around 3.9-4.0. They can get a bit tart, if you let them, so I like to elevate my pH a bit.

9) If you want a big fat slob of a US ESB, go with two row to 1.055, then add 1-1.5lbs of C-120, and hop it with Mt. Hood and Willamette like you're all outa F's to give. Sing Rule, Britannia! while kegging it to make it extra special good. If you had to google Rule, Britannia! stop what you're doing and call it a red IPA because people like you deserve to drink red IPAs. If that makes you feel sad, just don't do anything that I've described in this paragraph and you should be okay.

Well, that's some of the stuff that I know.

I hope this was useful to you.

I like to keep my pH on the high side throughout the brew day because UK ale yeast aggressively lower the finished ale's pH, typically around 3.9-4.0. They can get a bit tart, if you let them, so I like to elevate my pH a bit.

That's a fine rant, sir. You hit a lot of great points, but I want to second this one. I've seen this as well, but never put the pieces together. The most flavorful and flocculant English yeasts are the only ones I use anymore. And they seem to break some homebrew conventions. I don't have a pH meter, but I've tasted the pH getting lower, lower, then positively tangy by the time the beer is ready. Recently I've been easing up on calcium addition to the mash tun and have seen this go away. Not a bunch, but enough to push the calculator values up a half point or so makes a different beer.

Another one I've personally witnessed: "don't worry about carbonating after cold crashing--there's PLENTY of yeast left in there"

True with most stains. Using specifically 1469 and Pub, with a vigorous fermentation, cooling down several degrees during the last 5-10 gravity points, then crashing just as the butter flavor subsides, I have personally produced a polished clear ale several times that will not ferment priming sugar in any quantity at any temperature. Not with shaking, etc. Tastes clean as a coors light. And that's about 8 days total from pitching.

Every rule has an exception. It makes sense that exceptionally tasty yeast performs exceptionally.
 
Hi y'all,

Thanks for all the input! I'm living in Europe so looking to do a more traditional brittish ESB. I've got my hands on so marris otter and Simpsons crystal so we shall see.

I use dry yeast exclusively, which may limit me a bit for this style but I'm going with the lallemand london ale yeast.

I haven't considered adjuncts, and the corn discussion above was quite interesting, never thought about the difference between American corn and European corn but it makes sense. I'm just coming off of a cream ale which used corn so I might be looking at invert sugar... Not sure yet.

In my imagination this is a malty style supported by bitterness and fruity yeast.

I like this discussion. Maybe I'll start another similar thread on another style.
 
I use dry yeast exclusively, which may limit me a bit for this style but I'm going with the lallemand london ale yeast.
If that's the case, I would strongly suggest using Verdant! It's the only dry style that will properly attenuate the beer while also throwing the sort of fruity, jammy esters that are critical for the style.

If you do use London Ale, here's a long thread that shows brewers trying to figure out how to use it. To me, it sounds like Windsor, so I've never bothered with it.
 
If that's the case, I would strongly suggest using Verdant! It's the only dry style that will properly attenuate the beer while also throwing the sort of fruity, jammy esters that are critical for the style.

If you do use London Ale, here's a long thread that shows brewers trying to figure out how to use it. To me, it sounds like Windsor, so I've never bothered with it.
Verdant is very nice, too. To be honest, I don't think I could distinguish a London-fermented from a Verdant-fermented beer, side by side.

My experience with London is that it blazes through to about 70% apparent attenuation in 24-36 hours, and then slowly ekes out another 5-10% over the next week or so. I'm not sure how to square that attenuation with Lallemand's statement that it does not ferment maltotriose.
 
Verdant is very nice, too. To be honest, I don't think I could distinguish a London-fermented from a Verdant-fermented beer, side by side.

My experience with London is that it blazes through to about 70% apparent attenuation in 24-36 hours, and then slowly ekes out another 5-10% over the next week or so. I'm not sure how to square that attenuation with Lallemand's statement that it does not ferment maltotriose.
Well, if that's the case, have at it! That sounds like a killer UK ale yeast!

I wouldn't worry about what Lallemand says (most of us have learned not to at this point ;) ) and brew with confidence.

:bigmug:
 
A warning about Verdant. It's Extremely fruity, like peach/apricot bubblegum fruity.
Not like any actual English ale I've ever had.
Your best bet would be a blend if you want to go dry and also it adds some authencity since many of the old-school breweries still have their house multi strains.
Don't be afraid to ferment like an English ale either.
Pitch at 16-17c, let free rise to 20 and don't be afraid of covering the fermenter with just a cheese cloth or kitchen towel the first ~48h or so until fermentation starts winding down.
 
85-90% Maris Otter
7-10% Crystal
3-5% Wheat malt

Crystal would traditionally be all one variety, usually a circa 200-250 EBC medium IIRC.

I personally prefer a split that's roughly 4% 120EBC Extra Light Crystal and 3% Double Roast Crystal, which gives a similar colour but a bit more complexity without being overbearing or impacting drinkability.

Traditionally, Target or Challenger for bittering, and EKG or Fuggle for aroma. 40-45 IBU. Small dry hops (an ounce or so) can be beneficial as well.

Personally I tend to lean into First Gold as my aroma hop and Challenger for bittering as Target can be a bit harsh. I've tried a few experimental in my strong bitters and quite enjoyed CF184. I'll put an ounce or so of First Gold in the whirlpool and another in a dry hop at 7 days and that throws some nice orange marmalade.

For yeast, I like Notty as a single strain but have had best outcomes with co-pitches. Windsor/S-04 was probably my favourite as it threw some lovely nutty esters that reminded me of Pig's Ear, the strong bitter of my local brewery I consumed probably a hectolitre of in my local pub.

I like them fairly dry. 1.012 is usually my target, and I'll vary ABV from low 5s up to 6 depending on my mood.
 
For English beers, use English maltsters, especially for crystal.

If you're looking for dry yeast, I like Lallemand London. It's a monster.

I ended up using marris otter and Simpsons crystal t50 and lallemand london yeast. You were not joking that was one of the fiercest fermentation I've ever had. Started at 1.054 Saturday night by Monday morning it was at 1.017 and completed today at 1.015.

I'll still wait it out for at least another week but it was acting like a kveik strain! Too bad it's being discontinued. I guess I still need to taste it before I jump to any conclusions.
 
I ended up using marris otter and Simpsons crystal t50 and lallemand london yeast. You were not joking that was one of the fiercest fermentation I've ever had. Started at 1.054 Saturday night by Monday morning it was at 1.017 and completed today at 1.015.

I'll still wait it out for at least another week but it was acting like a kveik strain! Too bad it's being discontinued. I guess I still need to taste it before I jump to any conclusions.
My ESB ferments with Lallemand London have been pretty explosive too, but as to the "at least another week"; Trust me: Give it another 2 or 3 weeks.... Your taste buds will reward you for patience.
:mug:
 
My ESB ferments with Lallemand London have been pretty explosive too, but as to the "at least another week"; Trust me: Give it another 2 or 3 weeks.... Your taste buds will reward you for patience.
:mug:
I've tried short vs long ferments and haven't really noticed any differences when fermented for two weeks VS 3 weeks VS 4 weeks. What am I missing here? Is it yeast dependent? What's going on in there once fermentation is over?

Also you should know I have no homebrew on hand so... Is it really worth the extra wait?
 
I've tried short vs long ferments and haven't really noticed any differences when fermented for two weeks VS 3 weeks VS 4 weeks. What am I missing here? Is it yeast dependent? What's going on in there once fermentation is over?

Also you should know I have no homebrew on hand so... Is it really worth the extra wait?

There's having finished cooking dinner and then there's having cooked and eaten with the dishes in the washer.

Fermentation converts sugar into alcohol and CO2. Some other other compounds get thrown around too. The yeast will take care of some. Some will off-gas. Yeast will continue to flocc and drop. That's all conditioning. In the primary vessel, secondary vessel, keg, bottle. All conditioning. More conditioning in a previous vessel means clearer beer and less gunk in a subsequent vessel.

Worth it? Up to you.
 
I usually keg my beers(1.035-45 brews) within a 10-14 day period. Decently clear by then.
But I pitch relatively large and use highly mineralised liquor rich in calcium.
So 2 week-ish primary ferment, 2-3 weeks after priming the keg to carbonate and about a week in the fridge to cool condition or "cellarring"/settling.
Most beers are pretty clear by then, not German lager crystal clear but you can definitely see through them.

Most brews attenuate in the mid 70's except for bitters that end at low 80's AA% wise. I use sugar in everything British.
 

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