Tig welding!!

[1fast636]

Will have some pics after work of a "small" job I did today

 

[Digitizer101]

So I just want to say I love to look at good welds. I get very Jealous but still love to look. If you are feeling down about your welds just stop and watch one of my videos of my brew stand build and you will feel much, much, better.


https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLA5YysQeKcY3Vp6mhZacqFduBSkRv4Mwe

And please don't laugh out loud.

Enjoy

 

[1fast636]

Second time welding with 535 filler did a hot no filler pass on both sides then welded with filler

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[Trillium]

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I see a lot of those crater pits created when you stop the weld. I saw a trick on YouTube where they used the down slop of 1-2 seconds to prevent that. Just keep the torch moving when you cut the power. It works great.

 

[1fast636]

Interesting will give it a try on Tuesday, and that material was horrible for tig welding in the first place and nothing I did would clean up the grease soaked material I hit it with a grinder for ten mins good crazy cleaner and still had this grease film deal on it I wish it didn't have those blemishes threw it would make the smurf blood look so much better

 

[1fast636]

Stainless job finally
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[sandyeggoxj]

So what do you get when you take some triclover caps and drill/tap them to NPT?


And then you thread them onto a stainless steel pump head:


Dip in some filler and grab a light grit flap disc? A triclamp chugger pump!

 

[1fast636]

That's awesome because the crazy thing is I was just thinking about this today while doing some side work after welding, and my stainless hop spider I will have pics of in the next week or two,

More ss work today
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Tried some actual walking the cup I need to work on that lol
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[sandyeggoxj]

I got the idea from chuggers website. I read it and immediately said "well duh"! Haha. My neighbor has a machine shop in his garage. So that helps...

 

[1fast636]

Lol yea me working in a machine shop helps with my needs lol

 

[Trillium]

I got the idea from chuggers website. I read it and immediately said "well duh"! Haha. My neighbor has a machine shop in his garage. So that helps...

I'm also planning on doing this as well. What TIG settings did you use?

 

[sandyeggoxj]

I'm also planning on doing this as well. What TIG settings did you use?

Started with a double beveled edge. About 70 amps. .040 308l rod and 1/16 tungsten. 15 cfh. Full pedal until it warmed up nice and then backed off a little bit.

 

[1fast636]

Did you back gas or purg anything If not this is something I can actually do no problem at work I'm still figuring out how to get some sanitary/purg set up made to have my keggles perfect when I get them

 

[sandyeggoxj]

I didnt. Everything is so thick I wasn't burning through the back. I did use a gas lens. But I use that for all my stainless.

 

[1fast636]

Sweet something I can do with just free time then until I figure out some purge set up to purge everything and anything I weld lol

 

[shortyz]

Shortyz question on purging, any easy purge set ups we don't have anything to do purging which I hate, and any tips when welding with a purge set up? I have seen a tube from an extra bottle running into capped ends with alum foil does that work?

Ok I am back. i will hit a few questions with mutiple topics but here we go.

To purge properly, you need dual regs on your bottle. this allows you to set the CFM to the proper setting depending on what you are welding, big pipe requires big cfm. Remember when purging you should always have your gas feed at the lowest point because argon is heavier then air and you want it to displace the air not mix with it (the result is popcorn, or in technical terms chromium carbide precipitates, they are really tough to grind out). I work with .065 pipe alot so im using like 20cfm @ 57-59 amps. the pictures below are of the dual regs and turntable i use, along with some purge fittings. Foil tape works fine for plugging an open purge end, just poke 4 holes in it and your good to go. I use pipe plug inserts because it speeds things up a bit.

Torch setup is vital to a good weld aswell, i use the LARGE gas lense with a 10 cup, this baby gives you huge gas coverage. A gas lense is a must!

 

[shortyz]

Perfect!

I am wondering the best way to weld a back to back triclamp fitting inside the keggle. Basically 1 1.5" tri clamp on the outside connected to another 1.5" on the inside to run recirculation through a herms coil.

Also, any tips for purging a 50' coil to a tri-clamp fitting as well as the flow rates needed for purging.

For the back to back ferrule fitting i would buy 2 "long 1" ferrule" (clamp size is the same on 1" and 1.5" and i doubt your coil is 1.5"). Heres what i would do, grab a 1" hole saw, drill your 1/4" pilot hole first before setting the hole saw on the arbor, because you will break the bit when you break through . Then i would slide 1 long ferrule in and tack the other one on, now hook up your purge fitting to one side of it. If you dont have an adapter to hook your purge gas up to, you can tee off your regulator and tape a little hose inside the fitting. Once thats done tape off the other end and poke 1 HOLE in it. Remember with purging a slight pressure inside the pipe should be maintained to hold your weld pool from sluffing in. Weld 1" at like 50 amps, watch your weld pool, this is very important, when you see your pool WIGGLE you need to go a little quicker. Maintain a little wiggle to your weld pool, what this means is that you have proper penetration. Its a balancing act when it comes to welding thin wall pipe and you only get 1 crack at it, screw it up and you start again. Now that you have the 2 ferrules welded together you can tack the fitting to the container where you want it. yet again you want your purge gas on the 1" pipe as before to prevent contamination on the inside of the pipe. This is where it gets a little trickier, This is a filet weld so you want to use some filler rod, 1/8" is good for small stuff like this. Just buzz around the pipe adding a bit of filler as you go. (if you wanted a sanitary inside weld you would need another guy who is purging the inside with a hose or fitting, more amps, talking to partner, watching pool. But if this is for a boil kettle or something i would not be to concerned about a crack on the inside of the kettle if you cant get in there to weld it.

first picture is how we backpurge to weld fitting into tanks without contaminated the weld (2 guys needed, communication is key to proper penetration)

second picture is the backpurge fitting, now look closely. You can see the same gas lense idea with the purge fittings. ALWAYS stuff some steel wool or scrubby pad in the purge fittings. This creates laminar flow, if you dont know what that is go youtube it.

keep the questions coming in, if you dont understand my drivel ask me to clarify with pictures or something. cheers!

 

[shortyz]

Also guys, just remember a weld may look really nice (like some guy walking the cup at 40 amps) but the weld is garbage and the penetration is piss poor. I see this time and time again, it aint on the surface that what counts. stack all the dimes you want but if that weld isnt done at the proper amperage for the material thickness it will fail.

ex: if i am welding 1/4" structural SS i will do a root pass at 180 amps and cap it at 140.

 

[shortyz]

Fitment and welds. cheers

 

[shortyz]

Purge setup on a 2" pipe. Masking tape works to plug off the end aswell..

I always use 3/32 tungsten, never change for any jobs. Was using 2% thoriated but thats cancerous so i switch to lanthanated and never looked back.

only filler i carry is 1/8" and 5/32.

 

[Billy-Klubb]

Also guys, just remember a weld may look really nice (like some guy walking the cup at 40 amps) but the weld is garbage and the penetration is piss poor. I see this time and time again, it aint on the surface that what counts. stack all the dimes you want but if that weld isnt done at the proper amperage for the material thickness it will fail.

ex: if i am welding 1/4" structural SS i will do a root pass at 180 amps and cap it at 140.

I don't TIG, but this is true for any and all welding. I've seen pretty welds fail.

 

[1fast636]

Two action shots got to edit the video and condenses it alil taking to long to load lol

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And to finish the day I kegged two beers
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[1fast636]

Fusion no filler

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Some mild steel work
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Some build up work on a axle shaft working on my weave work
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[hugenjapan]

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[hugenjapan]

Lol

 

[hugenjapan]

What's wrong with it?

 

[Billy-Klubb]

What's wrong with it?

I think he's talking about the OP.

 

[1fast636]

Made a purge set up finally and got to play around with this today full purge, fusion weld nice and clean on the insides now time for more research and to get them perfect so I can weld on my keg fittings

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Next item in store is to make a turn table I know I'm not the greatest tug welder but I'm only 6 months in and have come along way

 

[1fast636]

Another practice run with purge

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Now my question to the experts how do you get the nice bead on the inside with purge welding? Do I need to up my amps, I did this run at 45A pushing 7 thru the purge set up

 

[sandyeggoxj]

I am NOT a pro at all. But from my playing around and from what I have read is that you get it all purging like normal and then form a puddle and sit on it long enough until it just barely starts to fall in. And then keep moving where the puddle is right on the edge of falling in as you move. That should get you complete fusion.

What is the wall thickness? Inverter or transformer machine? I usually start with the basic start of 1 amp per 0.001" wall plus a couple amps and then use the pedal to dial it in at the end. It also helps to ease off on the pedal at the end to keep it smooth and minimize the crater.