sandyeggoxj
Well-Known Member
Welding in a straight line is much harder than it looks!! Some of those look like the fitup is poor and that doesn't help anything. Still, the progress is great. Keep the pictures coming!
Tig welding!!
- Thread starter 1fast636
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk:
OP
OP
1fast636
Well-Known Member
Yea the 1/4 plate on top to the 2x2 gap was a bitch to weld around the seam and trying to keep the heat consistant with out burning to hot on the plate lol luckily both these tables are for a place that is only put chop saws on them so they really were not worried about the cosmetic look rather then the stability of the over killed 2x2x1/4 wall tubing and 1/4" top plates, the place likes us to build stuff then decide they don't want it I told the boss if they decide to toss these ill take them and use the one for a brew stand and the other as a welding table lol
OP
OP
1fast636
Well-Known Member
More work this week getting smoother still not perfect dimes tho
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1426626192.036475.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1426626206.675876.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1426626224.852338.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1426626243.279708.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1426626256.300864.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1426626192.036475.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1426626206.675876.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1426626224.852338.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1426626243.279708.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1426626256.300864.jpg
sandyeggoxj
Well-Known Member
Much better fit up in this joint. It shows. Nice work. Learning quickly.
OP
OP
1fast636
Well-Known Member
On that last project the crappy fitment was due to the company wanting to do it cheap and not want to do 45's on the ends for a nice joint it sucks for them because they could have the welds above all around but decide to be cheap and have the ugly welds that are sunk in
I've got a lot to learn about tig welding. To me those welds just look like a bunch of fill rod globbed onto the joint. Wondering about penetration, can the welds look like that without any fill rod used?
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
OP
OP
1fast636
Well-Known Member
They can but you need to go back over with fill rod then, those are being burned in at 200 and my penetration is pretty solid I'll snap a pic of the bottom plates to show my penetration and heat with those welds
OP
OP
1fast636
Well-Known Member
sandyeggoxj
Well-Known Member
Walking the cup, eh? Looks nice
sandyeggoxj
Well-Known Member
ahh I saw the weave bead and I assumed. I've got a 304 brutus 10 stand coming my way. I'll post some pictures when I get to it. Probably a few weeks out.
OP
OP
1fast636
Well-Known Member
Lol stick is ok but to dial it in is some work, tig is a hole other animal and it's taking a lot of practice just to get where I am now I have a lot of respect for the tig welder that make it look like nothing and lay stacked dimes all day, my hand likes to go dead half way in a pas and sorta makes my welds go crapy
sandyeggoxj
Well-Known Member
Working on that brew stand. It is 2x2x.065 304SS. Machine is a maxstar 150 sth set at 15cfh, 62 amps, hf start with a pedal. Tugsten 1/16 is tri-mix ground to a point. Filler is 308L in 1/16 for the wide gaps present at T-joint welds and .040" for the fillet and butt welds.
All the cuts were made with a 80 tooth carbide 14" dry cut saw and any residual joint prep was done with a 80 grit flap disc.
I am pretty happy with the fit-up of the butt welds:
Everything tacked into place and clamped to the table to keep it square:
T-joint weld I reference earlier with the wider gap due to the rounded nature of the square tubing corners. I used the thicker filler here and ran wide open (all of 62 amps) and travelled as fast as I could.
And 3 welds coming together. I ran the vertical weld uphill.
All the cuts were made with a 80 tooth carbide 14" dry cut saw and any residual joint prep was done with a 80 grit flap disc.
I am pretty happy with the fit-up of the butt welds:
Everything tacked into place and clamped to the table to keep it square:
T-joint weld I reference earlier with the wider gap due to the rounded nature of the square tubing corners. I used the thicker filler here and ran wide open (all of 62 amps) and travelled as fast as I could.
And 3 welds coming together. I ran the vertical weld uphill.
sandyeggoxj
Well-Known Member
I'm hoping for some good welds. These are good enough but I'd like them to look better. I've done it before but that was when I had much more energy. I've been pushing it pretty hard lately and my work is suffering. Oh well. I promised some pictures so I had to deliver!
OP
OP
1fast636
Well-Known Member
Looks great man stand is pretty much how mine will be but with the center missing for bottom drain mash tun, I got a big stainless job in line either end of week or next week can't wait to be dabbin on some stainless to get me ready to pull the plug on building my stand out of ss lol
sandyeggoxj
Well-Known Member
Nice! The biggest pain with stainless is the giant heat soak issues. It wets out faster and easier than mild steel. I also run an inverter but I run a touch under 1 amp per thou as a general rule.
I'll be getting a batch of pump plates back from the laser cutter soon. 14 ga 2b 304ss laser cut to the spec of march/chugger pump mounts. PM me if you want a set. I don't remember how many I'm cutting this batch but quite a few.
I'll be getting a batch of pump plates back from the laser cutter soon. 14 ga 2b 304ss laser cut to the spec of march/chugger pump mounts. PM me if you want a set. I don't remember how many I'm cutting this batch but quite a few.
OP
OP
1fast636
Well-Known Member
Will do thanks for the offer hopefully I can get the stand built rather cheap find some decommissioned kegs, or sell my street bike and get some stout tanks not sure yet, and be brewing easy sooner then later, with ease of repetition of batches, thinking a loves controller controlling my hlt burner and the temp from the herms with continuous recirculating mash
Sorry started day dreaming again tig pics should be coming soon all the tubing is cut now waiting for the collars to be machined
Sorry started day dreaming again tig pics should be coming soon all the tubing is cut now waiting for the collars to be machined
Very nice work, everything I learned about TIG was from YouTube. TIG Time and Welding Tips and Tricks are great channels.
I had a bitch of a time with movement of the stainless tube. It would want to open up on the opposite side even with the tack welds. I had to clamp the pieces to my table saw or it would come out crooked. It would warp out of shap in one direction, and then warp back again on the other side so it ended up straight. Forget vertical welds if your a beginner, I made a hell of a mess. I welded every joint horizontal.
sandyeggoxj
Well-Known Member
Thanks!
Trial and error here. Lots and lots of hood time. I'll go drop $100 on steel and just weld it together. Last run was a bunch of 16ga and 14ga 304ss sheared into 2" strips. Then I spent the next 4 hours just running fillet welds. I didn't care if it warped. Just practicing.
I have a 1/2" thick welding table that I use. I clamp stuff to it all the time to get it straight. I am looking forward to when I can afford to move up to a 1" thick table that is blanchard ground to be dead flat.
Welding is just like brewing. You don't need to be a pro to start but you have to be willing to put in tons of time.
RE: tack welds. Maybe just better tacks? Fitup is huge with TIG. I like to use fusion tacks, or non-filler tacks, to hold things in place. Turn up the heat another 10% than what you plan to weld with and just zap that tack into place. Quick and smooth is key.
When it comes to out of position I like overhead and vertical up. I hate horizontal. Flat is also preferred, of course, as gravity is in your favor!
Trial and error here. Lots and lots of hood time. I'll go drop $100 on steel and just weld it together. Last run was a bunch of 16ga and 14ga 304ss sheared into 2" strips. Then I spent the next 4 hours just running fillet welds. I didn't care if it warped. Just practicing.
I have a 1/2" thick welding table that I use. I clamp stuff to it all the time to get it straight. I am looking forward to when I can afford to move up to a 1" thick table that is blanchard ground to be dead flat.
Welding is just like brewing. You don't need to be a pro to start but you have to be willing to put in tons of time.
RE: tack welds. Maybe just better tacks? Fitup is huge with TIG. I like to use fusion tacks, or non-filler tacks, to hold things in place. Turn up the heat another 10% than what you plan to weld with and just zap that tack into place. Quick and smooth is key.
When it comes to out of position I like overhead and vertical up. I hate horizontal. Flat is also preferred, of course, as gravity is in your favor!
I tried fusion tacks, but when you start running your beads, the force from the contraction was enough to pop some of them open. The heat zone from my first tacks were as big as my thumb nail, (too many amps for too long) but with practise they were smaller then my pinky nail.
Close fitting joints is key !!!
Close fitting joints is key !!!
sandyeggoxj
Well-Known Member
If you check out my pictures you'll see the fit up I have on the mitered joint. I think that is imperative for a good weld. Tack every inch or two along the weld area if you need. No problems with that.
Do you have a foot pedal or hand control? That helps a ton. I have a 14 pin miller pedal I need to sell if you have a 14 Pin miller welder.
Do you have a foot pedal or hand control? That helps a ton. I have a 14 pin miller pedal I need to sell if you have a 14 Pin miller welder.
sandyeggoxj
Well-Known Member
Brewery or dairy?
neither, fruit juice.
Yeah, please provide some of your tig settings and technique for the sanitary butt welds, and welding thin pipe to a thick coupling.
OP
OP
1fast636
Well-Known Member
Shortyz question on purging, any easy purge set ups we don't have anything to do purging which I hate, and any tips when welding with a purge set up? I have seen a tube from an extra bottle running into capped ends with alum foil does that work?
Guys im gone to a music festival in washington this weekend, i will have a good write up on purging and settings when i return. I get back monday, so probably tuesday/wednesday. keep posting questions so i can adress anything you guys want to know 
Olive Drab
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2007
- Messages
- 292
- Reaction score
- 5
Guys im gone to a music festival in washington this weekend, i will have a good write up on purging and settings when i return. I get back monday, so probably tuesday/wednesday. keep posting questions so i can adress anything you guys want to know
Perfect!
I am wondering the best way to weld a back to back triclamp fitting inside the keggle. Basically 1 1.5" tri clamp on the outside connected to another 1.5" on the inside to run recirculation through a herms coil.
Also, any tips for purging a 50' coil to a tri-clamp fitting as well as the flow rates needed for purging.
Similar threads
