I've made this 5 times this was the first since going AG and i had some issues. Boil gravity was low so i added some extract with about 15 minutes left in boil. OG came in around 1.061. So i pitched. 11 days in primary racked into secondary with dry hops and checked FG. Way high 1.020. I know i made the mistake of racking after checking gravity. But anyway to fix this? Re pitch fresh yeast?
American Pale Ale Three Floyds Zombie Dust Clone
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brew703
Well-Known Member
No starter. used S-04 dry yeast. Fermentation was very active for almost a week. I never have added yeast at bottling time.
My target OG was 1.066 and finished at 1.076. FG was 1.016 which is 1 point over target. According to Brewers Friend, the ABV is 7.8% which is over 1% higher than target.
mrgrimm101
Well-Known Member
What constitutes a very high OG in your mind? Pretty much all of my brews are around 7% and I have never had to add more yeast at bottling. One might need to add more yeast at bottling if it were going upwards around 10%, but for a beer like this it seems unnecessary.. as long as you don't underpitch to begin with. There will be enough yeast left after primary to carbonate the bottles (assuming the correct amount of priming sugar is used). What temp did you bottle condition at?
mrgrimm101
Well-Known Member
Is there any yeast/trub in the bottom of your secondary? If so, I would try to get it back into suspension and it may go back to work. Otherwise, you may be ok with pitching more. Worst case, leave it be and it'll be a bit sweet, but lesson learned. This is one of the reasons I have stopped using secondaries entirely. Just toss the dry hop into primary and you're good to go!
actually i checked last night and had tons of activity in the airlock and it was still going last night. so hope some good yeast woke up in the transfer! will wait a few days a check gravity. but yes lesson learned. I was too cocky I've always hit my FG after primary
actually i checked last night and had tons of activity in the airlock and it was still going last night. so hope some good yeast woke up in the transfer! will wait a few days a check gravity. but yes lesson learned. I was too cocky I've always hit my FG after primary
mrgrimm101
Well-Known Member
Great news! Sounds like it should keep chugging until it hits FG.
I've been getting RAVING reviews about my brew at this. Was my first all grain on my own and my efficiency was only around 50%... Regardless, the beer is phenomenal way in every way other than the clarity. Nose is incredible... Taste is incredible... I used a pack of 5oz priming sugar boiled in some water added to bottling bucket then racked on top, bottled and capp'd... Within a week they were nicely carbed. Its been several now and theyre good to go.
I originally pitched two packets when I fermented, not that that would help bottling but yea... I wasnt planning on doing this so soon as I am just back into brewing, but ****... For how much people like this (including myself) I just may lol.
Just bottled a dogfish 60 clone yesterday, so I have a good supply I need to start drinking thru
I originally pitched two packets when I fermented, not that that would help bottling but yea... I wasnt planning on doing this so soon as I am just back into brewing, but ****... For how much people like this (including myself) I just may lol.
Just bottled a dogfish 60 clone yesterday, so I have a good supply I need to start drinking thru
BlurryEyed
Well-Known Member
Just think of how much better it could be at 65-75% efficiency! Review your setup, 50% is pretty low.
OP
OP
skeezerpleezer
Well-Known Member
Preheating isn't necessary if you still hit your mash temp, I usually do overshoot buy a couple degrees and then cool if needed. Check your crush and mix/stir well also.
Shake em up a little and turn them upside down for a few days.
I'd check your crush. Something is definitely off, unless you were way, way off on temp.
Hi all!
I bought a grainfather 30l (8g) set and I want to try to brew this 6g all grain as my firts beer. I have some experience, but mostly just by watching other people brew and help them.
I need your help for some steps. First: How much water I need for the beginig, for the mash? I have tryed to search, but so far got like 3 different results and all very far apart. For the sparge I would just add water to get 7g for the boil(?).
Secondly the yeast. The london esb 1968 comes in a package for 5g so that is too small, but the safale s-04 comes in packages of 11,5 grams. So I would use two? I havent learned to do yeast starter and dont have the equipment yet so im afraid thats out of question for now.
Hope you good people can help me. Thank you
I bought a grainfather 30l (8g) set and I want to try to brew this 6g all grain as my firts beer. I have some experience, but mostly just by watching other people brew and help them.
I need your help for some steps. First: How much water I need for the beginig, for the mash? I have tryed to search, but so far got like 3 different results and all very far apart. For the sparge I would just add water to get 7g for the boil(?).
Secondly the yeast. The london esb 1968 comes in a package for 5g so that is too small, but the safale s-04 comes in packages of 11,5 grams. So I would use two? I havent learned to do yeast starter and dont have the equipment yet so im afraid thats out of question for now.
Hope you good people can help me. Thank you
BlurryEyed
Well-Known Member
Since this is your first time on new equipment, I would suggest doing a SMaSH or something basic as your first batch. That way, you aren't dropping a ton of dough on Citra I'm the event it turns out not quite right. You'll also be able to try a certain water amount, and adjust from there
Thank you for your concern, but Im sure I can handle this recipe once I get started. It is not the most difficult beers to brew but it looks like just the kind I would love, and from what i´ve herad it does taste really good.
So if some one could help me with this I would really appreciate it.
Cheers!
BlurryEyed
Well-Known Member
Do you use Brewers friend? They have a water requirements calculator
Have no idea how something like the grainfather works regarding water requirements. But I'm guessing you could use a BIAB calculator and it would be somewhat close. I don't know how much water+grain one of those can hold at once.
This is the one I use:
http://pricelessbrewing.github.io/BiabCalc/
But looks likes they have their own, so I'd use that:
http://www.grainfather.com/#!brewing-calculator/cljs
As for the yeast, I'd really recommend using WY1968 and making a starter. You say you don't have the equipment, you don't need any to make a starter. You need some DME and a stove pot, and then some sanitized container to put the starter wort in (I use glass growlers, but you could even use a 2L soda bottle.) It's a very easy process and takes 20 mins or so the day before you want to brew. A stirplate/flask makes the most powerful starters, but just a starter sitting there on the counter is much better than none. I go by and give mine a swirl every time I walk by, and that's worked very well.
I do not care for the S04, others have had better luck. If you REALLY don't want to make a starter, you could pitch 2 packs of the WY1968.
Thank you!
Ill check those links and do my calculations. Brewers friend and grainfathers own have very different results. Maybe ill trust the gf one as im using it.
About the starter I have one question more. If I make astarter, would it make one pack of wy1968 to cover for 6g as the package says its for 5g? As it is very expencive I wouldnt want to buy two of those.
Thanks again
MMJfan
Well-Known Member
If you are making a starter, one pack of wyeast is PLENTY. I don't even bother making a starter when I'm using wyeast fwiw and I never have any problems with fermentation and I rarely use more than one pack even w/o a starter.
As for this beer, this has become my most favorite beer that I brew. I make a Two Hearted clone that has been my favorite and I make a mean Oberon clone that is up there, but this recipe with the Citra hops has taken over the top spot of my homebrew rankings...
If you are making a starter, one pack of wyeast is PLENTY. I don't even bother making a starter when I'm using wyeast fwiw and I never have any problems with fermentation and I rarely use more than one pack even w/o a starter.
Thanks!
BlurryEyed
Well-Known Member
Here's a starter calculator:
http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html#"
In my experience making a starter dramatically decreases fermentation time and made for a crisper taste IMO. YMMV of course, but considering how easy a yeast starter is to make, you have to figure why not?
You don't need a stir plate if you can swirl the starter periodically while it sits out on the counter. I did it this way a few times before building a stir plate out of a multispeed PC fan, magnet, stir bar, and flask.
MMJfan
Well-Known Member
How does a starter decrease fermentation time? In my experience, fermentation usually lasts 5-7 days with or without a starter. I haven't used a starter in years and my brews are always fermenting away within 24 hours of pitching the yeast, whether it be wyeast or even dry yeast.
As for easy, I'll take smacking a wyeast pack or cutting open dry yeast over taking the time to make a starter anytime.
BlurryEyed
Well-Known Member
I hit my FG faster using starters. Perhaps because there's more mature yeast cells. I'm no expert, just speaking from my own experience. If you have higher OG brews, then of course YMMV.
How does a starter decrease fermentation time? In my experience, fermentation usually lasts 5-7 days with or without a starter. I haven't used a starter in years and my brews are always fermenting away within 24 hours of pitching the yeast, whether it be wyeast or even dry yeast.
As for easy, I'll take smacking a wyeast pack or cutting open dry yeast over taking the time to make a starter anytime.
Proper pitch rate is proper pitch rate whether you buy additional smack packs or buy less smack packs and propogate up to the proper cell count.
Without knowing specifics on how many smack packs mmjfan is using he still may be underpitching. Just because you attenuate down to your predicted fg doesn't mean you aren't still under pitching.
I always make starters with liquid yeast. I never rehydrate dry yeast. Go figure. Lol!
This forum gets a little crazy when discussing pitching rates, especially since most brewers here brew 5 gallon batches. I don't think it's that big a deal. I'd be more concerned when brewing 15+ gallon batches.
Fermenting temps are way more important for homebrewing quality...
This forum gets a little crazy when discussing pitching rates, especially since most brewers here brew 5 gallon batches. I don't think it's that big a deal. I'd be more concerned when brewing 15+ gallon batches.
Fermenting temps are way more important for homebrewing quality...
How does a starter decrease fermentation time? In my experience, fermentation usually lasts 5-7 days with or without a starter. I haven't used a starter in years and my brews are always fermenting away within 24 hours of pitching the yeast, whether it be wyeast or even dry yeast.
As for easy, I'll take smacking a wyeast pack or cutting open dry yeast over taking the time to make a starter anytime.
If you 1 extra large pizza and two families. Family A has 3 people and family B has 9 people. Which family finishes the pizza first? Which family will have the most total offspring quickest? The amount of yeast cells needed for a 1.060 OG beer is about 3x the number that come in the yeast vials.
This is either a pretty bad analogy or your family pizza parties are WAY different than mine.
MMJfan
Well-Known Member
tempestam83
Well-Known Member
Cracked open the first bottle of this today. Brewed a 3-gallon BIAB version about a month ago. Been in the bottle for about 2-weeks.
Definitely one of the best batches I've made so far. Maybe a little darker than the actual 3F but the malt and hops are balanced perfectly.
Hoping it will taste even better after couple of more weeks.
Definitely one of the best batches I've made so far. Maybe a little darker than the actual 3F but the malt and hops are balanced perfectly.
Hoping it will taste even better after couple of more weeks.
Congrats! This brew is on my list to make very soon! I have my last extract kit to make and then this one! Which I hope to brew within the next week or two!
BlackWraith
Active Member
Have a batch that should be ready to bottle today or tomorrow! Hoping it works out as well as the first batch.
This recipe is amazing. I tweaked it a bit to make a lower ABV version for a sessionable pale ale (OG: 1.049, 4.8% ABV) and took first in the Austin NHC First Round! Re-brewing it for Final Round in the next few days!
Thanks for the awesome recipe, Skeezer!!
Thanks for the awesome recipe, Skeezer!!
OP
OP
skeezerpleezer
Well-Known Member
pdm1982
Well-Known Member
I see a lot of people have blended Mosaic hops with other hops in their recipes. Has anyone done an all Mosaic hop version of it? How were the results? I'm thinking about trying it and possibly using the Vermont Ale Yeast. Any pointers?
I've made the original posted recipe 3 times and it's always been great. Just wanted to try something a bit different.
I've made the original posted recipe 3 times and it's always been great. Just wanted to try something a bit different.
I've done it with mosaic and 1968 and was very happy with the results. Some people I shared it with preferred it over the all-citra original.
pdm1982
Well-Known Member
Awesome! Good to know. I planned on just subbing them one for one since the AA% on the Mosaic hops are pretty similar to Citra's. I've used S-04 on my previous 3 batches with no complaints. Looks like I'd have to special order that Vermont Ale Yeast since my LHBS doesn't carry it. I might just stick with the S-04.
