American Pale Ale Three Floyds Zombie Dust Clone

[emr25]

Brewed this last Saturday (2/20), it was our third overall homebrew and second BIAB. We implemented some new procedures this time, including a yeast starter for the 1968 using a Stir Starter stir plate and 1.5L of 1.040 starter wort, as well as a better method of insulating the brew kettle during the 60 minute mash (we were right at 152* when we closed the kettle, only stirred once, and were at 147* after the 60 minutes, which is not too bad for garage brewing on one of the coldest days we have had here in GA this year).

Hit a pre-boil OG of 1.053 (0.001 higher than expected via Priceless BIAB Calculator), and a post-boil OG of 1.069 (0.004 higher than the expected recipe OG), which means our squeezing process was a little more efficient than expected.

Decanted and pitched the yeast slurry around 66*, and have maintained 64-66* throughout so far. Fermentation was very active by about 18 hours in, and did not slow down until Day 3 or Day 4. Much improved over our first two homebrew batches (a liquid extract IPA kit from MoreBeer and a BIAB Chocolate Oatmeal Porter recipe we got online).

The only difference to the recipe from the OP was the addition of a 1.25 oz Citra dry hop at Day 3, added directly to the primary. I ordered 10 oz of Citra (recipe calls for 8.75 oz) and knew I wanted to add the extra 1.25 oz somewhere, but hadn't decided when. We used RO water with 1 tsp CaCl and 1/2 tsp Gypsum per 5 gallons of mash and sparge water (from the "Northeast Style IPA" thread here on HomeBrew Talk). The dry hop addition at Day 3 is in line with the thinking that hop interaction with the active yeast contributes to the "NE Style" IPA that is so popular with so many right now.

The standard 3 oz Citra dry hop will be added at Day 14, with the primary carboy moved to the fridge at Day 21 for cold crashing, and to the keg at Day 23 for packaging. Two weeks at 12-14 psi will put our keg tapping date around Day 37 from brew day.

Looking forward to this one, it should be our best homebrew yet and we have learned a lot through these first three batches! I will post back once we have a FG reading and once we are pouring from the tap in about 30 days!

 

[Laserrs]

9 days of carb/conditioning time and my "sample" is marvelous. Head retention isn't great, need to investigate that piece. However, perhaps most importantly, it taste amazing. Having not tried the real thing, I cannot comment to its likeness but it's a keeper recipe.

And sorry, image is sideways don't know why.

Edit: image is NOT sideways, nice.

 

[emr25]

Brewed this last Saturday (2/20), it was our third overall homebrew and second BIAB. We implemented some new procedures this time, including a yeast starter for the 1968 using a Stir Starter stir plate and 1.5L of 1.040 starter wort, as well as a better method of insulating the brew kettle during the 60 minute mash (we were right at 152* when we closed the kettle, only stirred once, and were at 147* after the 60 minutes, which is not too bad for garage brewing on one of the coldest days we have had here in GA this year).

Hit a pre-boil OG of 1.053 (0.001 higher than expected via Priceless BIAB Calculator), and a post-boil OG of 1.069 (0.004 higher than the expected recipe OG), which means our squeezing process was a little more efficient than expected.

Decanted and pitched the yeast slurry around 66*, and have maintained 64-66* throughout so far. Fermentation was very active by about 18 hours in, and did not slow down until Day 3 or Day 4. Much improved over our first two homebrew batches (a liquid extract IPA kit from MoreBeer and a BIAB Chocolate Oatmeal Porter recipe we got online).

The only difference to the recipe from the OP was the addition of a 1.25 oz Citra dry hop at Day 3, added directly to the primary. I ordered 10 oz of Citra (recipe calls for 8.75 oz) and knew I wanted to add the extra 1.25 oz somewhere, but hadn't decided when. We used RO water with 1 tsp CaCl and 1/2 tsp Gypsum per 5 gallons of mash and sparge water (from the "Northeast Style IPA" thread here on HomeBrew Talk). The dry hop addition at Day 3 is in line with the thinking that hop interaction with the active yeast contributes to the "NE Style" IPA that is so popular with so many right now.

The standard 3 oz Citra dry hop will be added at Day 14, with the primary carboy moved to the fridge at Day 21 for cold crashing, and to the keg at Day 23 for packaging. Two weeks at 12-14 psi will put our keg tapping date around Day 37 from brew day.

Looking forward to this one, it should be our best homebrew yet and we have learned a lot through these first three batches! I will post back once we have a FG reading and once we are pouring from the tap in about 30 days!

Just pulled an FG sample at Day 7. Already at 1.015, with an OG of 1.069, which puts it around 7.1% ABV currently.

The aroma is amazing, best I've ever smelled before. The Day 3 dry hop certainly contributed to that, but needless to say it is going to be a long few weeks waiting for this to finish up and then carbonate!

 

[brew703]

I brewed this on 1/23. OG was about 8 points over what I wanted. FG was only a couple points above where I wanted. The s-04 did a good job. Bottled 2/8 and this beer still isn't carbed. Not sure what the deal is as I have the bottles sitting on top of my chest freezer where the temps are mid 70's.
Does it normally take an IPA a month to carb? I double checked my priming sugar amount and I was actually a little over so I don't think that was the issue.

 

[ruascott]

I brewed this on 1/23. OG was about 8 points over what I wanted. FG was only a couple points above where I wanted. The s-04 did a good job. Bottled 2/8 and this beer still isn't carbed. Not sure what the deal is as I have the bottles sitting on top of my chest freezer where the temps are mid 70's.
Does it normally take an IPA a month to carb? I double checked my priming sugar amount and I was actually a little over so I don't think that was the issue.

No, mine was partially carbed at a week, and fully carbed in 2. I used 22oz bombers and some 12 oz bottles.

 

[brew703]

I'll give it another week. if not fully carbed going to dump it.

 

[Bobo1898]

I brewed this on 1/23. OG was about 8 points over what I wanted. FG was only a couple points above where I wanted[....]Does it normally take an IPA a month to carb? I double checked my priming sugar amount and I was actually a little over so I don't think that was the issue.

Did you make a starter? Did you add more yeast at bottling time? The first time I brewed this, I didn't add yeast at bottling time (or make a starter for brew day) and it took over a month to carb up. I assumed this was the yeast being stressed out. For any subsequent time that I've brewed this, I've added bottling yeast. The beer was carbed within two weeks.

I think if your target OG is going to be over 1.050, you want to make a starter for brew day, otherwise you can be putting stress on your yeast (if you're under pitching). I also feel like if you have a very high OG, you should also be adding yeast at bottling time as they might be stressed in the higher ABV environment. Your OG was 1.073? That puts your beer over 7%.

 

[tempestam83]

Going to do a 3-gallon BIAB version on this next weekend. Any advice?

 

[Bobo1898]

I'll give it another week. if not fully carbed going to dump it.

If you didn't do the things I mentioned, don't dump it. Give it some time. I've read from other posters in these forums talking about how some of their beers take 6 weeks to carb.

 

[DC_0602]

Did a BIAB version of this recipe, minor tweaks. Ended up entering into a local Homebrew comp and ended up getting 1st in the IPA category! Great recipe, amazing taste!

 

[Steve3730]

I've made this 5 times this was the first since going AG and i had some issues. Boil gravity was low so i added some extract with about 15 minutes left in boil. OG came in around 1.061. So i pitched. 11 days in primary racked into secondary with dry hops and checked FG. Way high 1.020. I know i made the mistake of racking after checking gravity. But anyway to fix this? Re pitch fresh yeast?

 

[brew703]

Did you make a starter? Did you add more yeast at bottling time? The first time I brewed this, I didn't add yeast at bottling time (or make a starter for brew day) and it took over a month to carb up. I assumed this was the yeast being stressed out. For any subsequent time that I've brewed this, I've added bottling yeast. The beer was carbed within two weeks.

I think if your target OG is going to be over 1.050, you want to make a starter for brew day, otherwise you can be putting stress on your yeast (if you're under pitching). I also feel like if you have a very high OG, you should also be adding yeast at bottling time as they might be stressed in the higher ABV environment. Your OG was 1.073? That puts your beer over 7%.

No starter. used S-04 dry yeast. Fermentation was very active for almost a week. I never have added yeast at bottling time.
My target OG was 1.066 and finished at 1.076. FG was 1.016 which is 1 point over target. According to Brewers Friend, the ABV is 7.8% which is over 1% higher than target.

 

[Laserrs]

Swirl and wait some more.

 

[mrgrimm101]

Did you make a starter? Did you add more yeast at bottling time? The first time I brewed this, I didn't add yeast at bottling time (or make a starter for brew day) and it took over a month to carb up. I assumed this was the yeast being stressed out. For any subsequent time that I've brewed this, I've added bottling yeast. The beer was carbed within two weeks.

I think if your target OG is going to be over 1.050, you want to make a starter for brew day, otherwise you can be putting stress on your yeast (if you're under pitching). I also feel like if you have a very high OG, you should also be adding yeast at bottling time as they might be stressed in the higher ABV environment. Your OG was 1.073? That puts your beer over 7%.

What constitutes a very high OG in your mind? Pretty much all of my brews are around 7% and I have never had to add more yeast at bottling. One might need to add more yeast at bottling if it were going upwards around 10%, but for a beer like this it seems unnecessary.. as long as you don't underpitch to begin with. There will be enough yeast left after primary to carbonate the bottles (assuming the correct amount of priming sugar is used). What temp did you bottle condition at?

 

[mrgrimm101]

I've made this 5 times this was the first since going AG and i had some issues. Boil gravity was low so i added some extract with about 15 minutes left in boil. OG came in around 1.061. So i pitched. 11 days in primary racked into secondary with dry hops and checked FG. Way high 1.020. I know i made the mistake of racking after checking gravity. But anyway to fix this? Re pitch fresh yeast?

Is there any yeast/trub in the bottom of your secondary? If so, I would try to get it back into suspension and it may go back to work. Otherwise, you may be ok with pitching more. Worst case, leave it be and it'll be a bit sweet, but lesson learned. This is one of the reasons I have stopped using secondaries entirely. Just toss the dry hop into primary and you're good to go!

 

[Steve3730]

Is there any yeast/trub in the bottom of your secondary? If so, I would try to get it back into suspension and it may go back to work. Otherwise, you may be ok with pitching more. Worst case, leave it be and it'll be a bit sweet, but lesson learned. This is one of the reasons I have stopped using secondaries entirely. Just toss the dry hop into primary and you're good to go!

actually i checked last night and had tons of activity in the airlock and it was still going last night. so hope some good yeast woke up in the transfer! will wait a few days a check gravity. but yes lesson learned. I was too cocky I've always hit my FG after primary

 

[Steve3730]

Is there any yeast/trub in the bottom of your secondary? If so, I would try to get it back into suspension and it may go back to work. Otherwise, you may be ok with pitching more. Worst case, leave it be and it'll be a bit sweet, but lesson learned. This is one of the reasons I have stopped using secondaries entirely. Just toss the dry hop into primary and you're good to go!

actually i checked last night and had tons of activity in the airlock and it was still going last night. so hope some good yeast woke up in the transfer! will wait a few days a check gravity. but yes lesson learned. I was too cocky I've always hit my FG after primary

 

[mrgrimm101]

actually i checked last night and had tons of activity in the airlock and it was still going last night. so hope some good yeast woke up in the transfer! will wait a few days a check gravity. but yes lesson learned. I was too cocky I've always hit my FG after primary

Great news! Sounds like it should keep chugging until it hits FG.

 

[ctufano]

I've been getting RAVING reviews about my brew at this. Was my first all grain on my own and my efficiency was only around 50%... Regardless, the beer is phenomenal way in every way other than the clarity. Nose is incredible... Taste is incredible... I used a pack of 5oz priming sugar boiled in some water added to bottling bucket then racked on top, bottled and capp'd... Within a week they were nicely carbed. Its been several now and theyre good to go.

I originally pitched two packets when I fermented, not that that would help bottling but yea... I wasnt planning on doing this so soon as I am just back into brewing, but ****... For how much people like this (including myself) I just may lol.

Just bottled a dogfish 60 clone yesterday, so I have a good supply I need to start drinking thru

 

[BlurryEyed]

I've been getting RAVING reviews about my brew at this. Was my first all grain on my own and my efficiency was only around 50%... Regardless, the beer is phenomenal way in every way other than the clarity. Nose is incredible... Taste is incredible... I used a pack of 5oz priming sugar boiled in some water added to bottling bucket then racked on top, bottled and capp'd... Within a week they were nicely carbed. Its been several now and theyre good to go.

I originally pitched two packets when I fermented, not that that would help bottling but yea... I wasnt planning on doing this so soon as I am just back into brewing, but ****... For how much people like this (including myself) I just may lol.

Just bottled a dogfish 60 clone yesterday, so I have a good supply I need to start drinking thru

Just think of how much better it could be at 65-75% efficiency! Review your setup, 50% is pretty low.

 

[ctufano]

I can only imagine it was my mash/sparge. I mashed at the temp it said, but I didnt preheat my tun. Next time I will. I'll also go a few degrees above the temperature.

But yea, 50% was crazy low

 

[skeezerpleezer]

I can only imagine it was my mash/sparge. I mashed at the temp it said, but I didnt preheat my tun. Next time I will. I'll also go a few degrees above the temperature.

But yea, 50% was crazy low

Preheating isn't necessary if you still hit your mash temp, I usually do overshoot buy a couple degrees and then cool if needed. Check your crush and mix/stir well also.

 

[ctufano]

Seemed that stirred fine, didnt have any clumps

 

[Tbattisti]

I'll give it another week. if not fully carbed going to dump it.

Shake em up a little and turn them upside down for a few days.

 

[ruascott]

I can only imagine it was my mash/sparge. I mashed at the temp it said, but I didnt preheat my tun. Next time I will. I'll also go a few degrees above the temperature.

But yea, 50% was crazy low

I'd check your crush. Something is definitely off, unless you were way, way off on temp.

 

[NickLazy]

Hi all!
I bought a grainfather 30l (8g) set and I want to try to brew this 6g all grain as my firts beer. I have some experience, but mostly just by watching other people brew and help them.
I need your help for some steps. First: How much water I need for the beginig, for the mash? I have tryed to search, but so far got like 3 different results and all very far apart. For the sparge I would just add water to get 7g for the boil(?).
Secondly the yeast. The london esb 1968 comes in a package for 5g so that is too small, but the safale s-04 comes in packages of 11,5 grams. So I would use two? I havent learned to do yeast starter and dont have the equipment yet so im afraid thats out of question for now.
Hope you good people can help me. Thank you

 

[BlurryEyed]

Since this is your first time on new equipment, I would suggest doing a SMaSH or something basic as your first batch. That way, you aren't dropping a ton of dough on Citra I'm the event it turns out not quite right. You'll also be able to try a certain water amount, and adjust from there

 

[NickLazy]

Since this is your first time on new equipment, I would suggest doing a SMaSH or something basic as your first batch. That way, you aren't dropping a ton of dough on Citra I'm the event it turns out not quite right. You'll also be able to try a certain water amount, and adjust from there

Thank you for your concern, but Im sure I can handle this recipe once I get started. It is not the most difficult beers to brew but it looks like just the kind I would love, and from what i´ve herad it does taste really good.
So if some one could help me with this I would really appreciate it.
Cheers!

 

[BlurryEyed]

Do you use Brewers friend? They have a water requirements calculator

 

[ruascott]

Hi all!
I bought a grainfather 30l (8g) set and I want to try to brew this 6g all grain as my firts beer. I have some experience, but mostly just by watching other people brew and help them.
I need your help for some steps. First: How much water I need for the beginig, for the mash? I have tryed to search, but so far got like 3 different results and all very far apart. For the sparge I would just add water to get 7g for the boil(?).
Secondly the yeast. The london esb 1968 comes in a package for 5g so that is too small, but the safale s-04 comes in packages of 11,5 grams. So I would use two? I havent learned to do yeast starter and dont have the equipment yet so im afraid thats out of question for now.
Hope you good people can help me. Thank you

Have no idea how something like the grainfather works regarding water requirements. But I'm guessing you could use a BIAB calculator and it would be somewhat close. I don't know how much water+grain one of those can hold at once.

This is the one I use:
http://pricelessbrewing.github.io/BiabCalc/

But looks likes they have their own, so I'd use that:

http://www.grainfather.com/#!brewing-calculator/cljs



As for the yeast, I'd really recommend using WY1968 and making a starter. You say you don't have the equipment, you don't need any to make a starter. You need some DME and a stove pot, and then some sanitized container to put the starter wort in (I use glass growlers, but you could even use a 2L soda bottle.) It's a very easy process and takes 20 mins or so the day before you want to brew. A stirplate/flask makes the most powerful starters, but just a starter sitting there on the counter is much better than none. I go by and give mine a swirl every time I walk by, and that's worked very well.

I do not care for the S04, others have had better luck. If you REALLY don't want to make a starter, you could pitch 2 packs of the WY1968.