Third Brew, other two great not sure if I have a problem Or need to re-pitch yeast or add nutrient?

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Wolffie

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Location
Tipp City, Ohio
OG: 1.054

Mash ingredients:
8 lbs English Maris Otter
0.5lbs Weyermann Carafa lll
0.5lbs English Chocolate Malt

Mash Schedule: Single Infusion
152 F for 60 min .....................(note I fixed typo from 52 F)
Mashout: 170 F for 10 min (stop emzines

Boil Additions & Times:
1oz Willamette (60min)
1lbs Lactose (60 min)
Irish Moss (15 Min to end)


Yeast:

Liquid Yeast
Wyeast 1098 British Ale

Distilled water
Mash water 3 Gal (brewers friend 2.79 Gal)
Sprag water 3 Gal (brewers friend 2.79 Gal)
Added 1.5 Gallon for under grain space dead space for mash


Mash 1hr 152 F
Sprag 1hr (recur late) Brewzilla 35L

Boil 60Min 212F

cool 78F
gravity @ 1.039, Brix @ 8

(did a yeast starter 2 days before)

transfer to fermenter

Pitched yeast 11/21 - 11/26 (5 days)
used a blow off good strong bubbling Star-san
11/27 - 11/30 changed to airlock Star-san good activity

11/30 -12/03 no activity ???
Gravity 12/03 1.030 Gravity Brix 8
only .009 drop ?? since start of fermentation 12 days

Do I have a stuck fermentation or should I add nutrients?
any help or recommendations would be appreciated.


I don't know what the final gravity should be???
IMG_0973.jpg
IMG_0974.jpg
 
Last edited:
What was your OG? You have 1.054 at the top, 1.039 in the notes. If it actually was 1.054 and you have a refractometer reading of 8 brix now, that would be a SG of 1.018 and 4.5% ABV
 
1.054 at the start of the boil and 1.039 after boil? The boil removes water from the solution. To have a lower OG at the end doesn't make sense, even with the temperature difference. I suspect that that measurement was not accurate. To account for alcohol in a fermenting batch, you need to use a calculator with a refractometer. I use the one northern brewer has online. Brewers Friend also has one that is commonly used.


https://www.northernbrewer.com/pages/refractometer-calculator
 
What was your OG? You have 1.054 at the top, 1.039 in the notes. If it actually was 1.054 and you have a refractometer reading of 8 brix now, that would be a SG of 1.018 and 4.5% ABV

from brewers friend
This is more in line with what I have right now I am confused ???
Thanks for your help

Brix to Specific Gravity Calculator:
Brix:​
8

Specific Gravity:​
1.0318
Potential Alcohol By Volume:​
4.1%


Specific Gravity to Brix Calculator:Gravity:

Brix:
8.0
Potential Alcohol By Volume:
4.1%

 
Using the calculator after fermentation starts is not just following a scale converting brix to sg. Given your recipe, you should have had a starting sg of about 1.054 unless you had very bad efficiency. I am assuming that your first brix rating really should have been about 13, not 8. Then the calculator gives a value of 1.018 for your current gravity. The SG scale on your refractometer is only good when there is no alcohol in the wort / beer. All other measurements have to be adjusted in the calculator. Frankly, I mostly use mine just to determine when fermentation has ended and use the calculator then.

That said, there are a couple other things in your notes that need to be cleared up. First, it says you mashed at 52 degrees F? That is 152, isn't it? If it actually is 52, then conversion probably was very minimal, occurringonly when you sparged and you may have had a low starting gravity.

And what did you do with the 1.5 gallons of water you note as dead space? That was part of the mash,wasn't it.?
 
1.054 at the start of the boil and 1.039 after boil? The boil removes water from the solution. To have a lower OG at the end doesn't make sense, even with the temperature difference. I suspect that that measurement was not accurate. To account for alcohol in a fermenting batch, you need to use a calculator with a refractometer. I use the one northern brewer has online. Brewers Friend also has one that is commonly used.


https://www.northernbrewer.com/pages/refractometer-calculator
I was looking for this, bookmarked it. what you said make since so I am not sure about the readings now have any suggestions about where I am LOL
I am diabetic I guess I can drink the milk stout with no alchol . it taste ok un carb-ed totally lost for now.
i need to be more careful from here in the future. Thanks for your help
2 for three is a ok start cream ale and Irish red were great 27 years of wine making all good


Convert pre-fermentation Brix to gravity, Brix to gravity during and after fermentation, approximate ABV, and original gravity from current Brix and gravity using the Refractometer Calculators below.

Pre-Fermentation Brix to Gravity Converter
  • Measured Brix 8

  • Gravity 1.032
Brix to Gravity during and after fermentation converter
  • Original Brix
  • Current Brix

  • Current Gravity
Approximate ABV and Original Gravity from current Brix and Gravity converter
  • Current Brix 8
  • Current Gravity 1.031

  • ABV -0.14
  • Original Gravity 1.03


  • Using the calculator after fermentation starts is not just following a scale converting brix to sg. Given your recipe, you should have had a starting sg of about 1.054 unless you had very bad efficiency. I am assuming that your first brix rating really should have been about 13, not 8. Then the calculator gives a value of 1.018 for your current gravity. The SG scale on your refractometer is only good when there is no alcohol in the wort / beer. All other measurements have to be adjusted in the calculator. Frankly, I mostly use mine just to determine when fermentation has ended and use the calculator then.

    That said, there are a couple other things in your notes that need to be cleared up. First, it says you mashed at 52 degrees F? That is 152, isn't it? If it actually is 52, then conversion probably was very minimal, occurringonly when you sparged and you may have had a low starting gravity.

    And what did you do with the 1.5 gallons of water you note as dead space? That was part of the mash,wasn't it.?
    You are right 152F, I am 72 (no excuse) and not a great at typing lol. yes I used the 1.5 Gal in the mash as with out it and dead space it was too thick of a mash, I know you are correct about the Brix I kind of remember 14 in the back of my mind as a start
    Using the calculator after fermentation starts is not just following a scale converting brix to sg. Given your recipe, you should have had a starting sg of about 1.054 unless you had very bad efficiency. I am assuming that your first brix rating really should have been about 13, not 8. Then the calculator gives a value of 1.018 for your current gravity. The SG scale on your refractometer is only good when there is no alcohol in the wort / beer. All other measurements have to be adjusted in the calculator. Frankly, I mostly use mine just to determine when fermentation has ended and use the calculator then.

    That said, there are a couple other things in your notes that need to be cleared up. First, it says you mashed at 52 degrees F? That is 152, isn't it? If it actually is 52, then conversion probably was very minimal, occurring only when you sparged and you may have had a low starting gravity.

    And what did you do with the 1.5 gallons of water you note as dead space? That was part of the mash,wasn't it.?
    I mashed at 152 F 1 hr and I remember first reading before Mash around 13-14 Brix. Yes I used the 1.5 Gal for dead space under mash Tun Brewzilla 35L.
  • Running them #'s In Northern Brewers
    Refractometer Calculator

  • Pre-Fermentation Brix to Gravity Converter
    • Measured Brix 13

    • Gravity 1.053
  • Brix to Gravity during and after fermentation converter
    • Original Brix 13
    • Current Brix 8

    • Current Gravity 1.018...................... here is where Problem starts I have (1.030 G) at present time this is why I thought a stuck fermentation?
    • an ask original ?
    • Approximate ABV and Original Gravity from current Brix and Gravity converter
      Current Brix 8
      • Current Gravity 1.030

      • ABV 0.221
      • Original Gravity 1.031
    • I am going to take a hydrometer reading next. I try not to waste wort. re-reading I was trying to follow what you said about When to use
    • hydrometer or refractometer except I was missing Understanding of Brix to start. Thanks you cleared up that.


 
I was looking for this, bookmarked it. what you said make since so I am not sure about the readings now have any suggestions about where I am LOL
I am diabetic I guess I can drink the milk stout with no alchol . it taste ok un carb-ed totally lost for now.
i need to be more careful from here in the future. Thanks for your help
2 for three is a ok start cream ale and Irish red were great 27 years of wine making all good


Convert pre-fermentation Brix to gravity, Brix to gravity during and after fermentation, approximate ABV, and original gravity from current Brix and gravity using the Refractometer Calculators below.

Pre-Fermentation Brix to Gravity Converter
  • Measured Brix 8

  • Gravity 1.032
Brix to Gravity during and after fermentation converter
  • Original Brix
  • Current Brix

  • Current Gravity
Approximate ABV and Original Gravity from current Brix and Gravity converter
  • Current Brix 8
  • Current Gravity 1.031

  • ABV -0.14
  • Original Gravity 1.03



  • You are right 152F, I am 72 (no excuse) and not a great at typing lol. yes I used the 1.5 Gal in the mash as with out it and dead space it was too thick of a mash, I know you are correct about the Brix I kind of remember 14 in the back of my mind as a start

    I mashed at 152 F 1 hr and I remember first reading before Mash around 13-14 Brix. Yes I used the 1.5 Gal for dead space under mash Tun Brewzilla 35L.
  • Running them #'s In Northern Brewers
    Refractometer Calculator

  • Pre-Fermentation Brix to Gravity Converter
    • Measured Brix 13

    • Gravity 1.053
  • Brix to Gravity during and after fermentation converter
    • Original Brix 13
    • Current Brix 8

    • Current Gravity 1.018...................... here is where Problem starts I have (1.030 G) at present time this is why I thought a stuck fermentation?
    • an ask original ?
    • Approximate ABV and Original Gravity from current Brix and Gravity converter
      Current Brix 8
      • Current Gravity 1.030

      • ABV 0.221
      • Original Gravity 1.031
    • I am going to take a hydrometer reading next. I try not to waste wort. re-reading I was trying to follow what you said about When to use
    • hydrometer or refractometer except I was missing Understanding of Brix to start. Thanks you cleared up that.
I took a IMG_0993.jpg
IMG_0993.jpg
IMG_0994 (1).jpg



I checked my refractometer with distilled water 1.000
Plug in hydrometer reading I got this

Here are the readings from hydrometer I get 1.018 FG and only 4.508
% Alcohol.
rechecking with refractometer (same sample) I get 8 Brix (not converted) and 1.033 FG
Hope this gives more info. What do you suggest ? I Keg and use carb lid and stone.
And thanks again for your patients and knowledge NT Beer

Pluged in hydrometer reading I just took and got this from Northern Brew Calc. I got this.



Pre-Fermentation Brix to Gravity Converter
  • Measured Brix 13

  • Gravity 10.53
Brix to Gravity during and after fermentation converter
  • Original Brix 13
  • Current Brix 8

  • Current Gravity 1.018
Approximate ABV and Original Gravity from current Brix and Gravity converter
  • Current Brix 8
  • Current Gravity 1.018

  • ABV 4.508 %
  • Original Gravity 1.052
 
Last edited:
You may be a bit confused about how to read the hydrometer. You don't read ABV off the hydro, only specific gravity. Looks like the hydro is reading 1.016. That would be your final gravity, or FG.

If your original gravity (OG) was 1.039, this means it dropped 23 gravity points. That's 59% attenuation, which is low, but not at the extreme. The ABV is a hair over 3%. One suspicion is that your mash temp was significantly higher than 152F, by up to 10 degrees. Only you would know if that's possible.

Most importantly, after 9 days of visibly active fermentation, and a few more on top of that, it is done and adding yeast will not be useful. The yeast consumed all of the available sugars in the wort.
 
You may be a bit confused about how to read the hydrometer. You don't read ABV off the hydro, only specific gravity. Looks like the hydro is reading 1.016. That would be your final gravity, or FG.

If your original gravity (OG) was 1.039, this means it dropped 23 gravity points. That's 59% attenuation, which is low, but not at the extreme. The ABV is a hair over 3%. One suspicion is that your mash temp was significantly higher than 152F, by up to 10 degrees. Only you would know if that's possible.

Most importantly, after 9 days of visibly active fermentation, and a few more on top of that, it is done and adding yeast will not be useful. The yeast consumed all of the available sugars in the wort.
I agree with that I made wine 27 years(not as hard ad beer.) I need to get my measurements correct. Not sure of my true OG. It was a cold day an I was hurrying in garage that day.
I will be most care full next time. Thanks for advice. McKnuckle
I Take OG before Mash and I take after Mash ( first cool) and I take Reading after boil (cool) down below 80 F I think I confused my self.
again thanks
 
To help un-confuse you :), OG or Original Gravity is the gravity into the fermenter, before yeast begins working on the wort. That would be your after-boil, chilled down reading.

Gravity taken at an earlier time is not called OG. It's just the specific gravity, or SG, tagged to a different point in the process.

Typically a brewer will check SG of the wort collected from the mash, before boiling, which we typically call Pre-Boil Gravity. The next SG reading will be the wort after boiling, before fermentation begins, or Original Gravity.
 
To help un-confuse you :), OG or Original Gravity is the gravity into the fermenter, before yeast begins working on the wort. That would be your after-boil, chilled down reading.

Gravity taken at an earlier time is not called OG. It's just the specific gravity, or SG, tagged to a different point in the process.

Typically a brewer will check SG of the wort collected from the mash, before boiling, which we typically call Pre-Boil Gravity. The next SG reading will be the wort after boiling, before fermentation begins, or Original Gravity.

Thanks I copied and pasted that to print for my beer guide I keep info I must remember That clears up a lot about Gravity difference's
Most important :
1) check SG of the wort collected from the mash, before boiling, which we typically call Pre-Boil Gravity.( on my list Brew Friend Ck. list)
2) next SG reading will be the wort after boiling, before fermentation begins, or Original Gravity. where the 1.039 you used.
Thank you! and to all other comments.
 

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