Thinking About an eBIAB Build

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As the title says... thinking about an eBIAB build. Want to keep my footprint small, make cleanup easier, increase temperature control during the mash, etc. The ideal system would allow me to do both smaller test batches and my usual 5 gallons.

So first things first. Trying to figure out what size kettle to buy. Been looking at the stainless steel Bayou Classic pots with the baskets. I think having a basket to lift the bag would be useful, plus it keeps the bag off the element. Maybe there are other options, but here are my thoughts on the Bayou pots...

Their 24qt pot isn't big enough for the 5gal batches... That leaves me with the 36 or 44qt pots as options. According to their website, both pots have the same diameter and the baskets sit off the bottom 3in. If the only difference is their height, might as well go with the larger pot... especially since its actually cheaper than the 36qt pot on Amazon.

My concern however is... not having enough water above the basket during the mash. Assume I start with 4gal (for the smaller batches). I did a quick calc and estimate the height of the water would be about 6.46in for a pot with a 13.5in diameter. With the basket 3in off the bottom, I'm left with 3.5in above the basket. This seems like its not enough water to mash even small batches in.

Seen a lot of great rigs on here and I'm sure there are other people out there that have had the same question. Interested in hearing everyone's opinion.
 
Perhaps you are overthinking this. With BIAB you are able to mill the grains fine without getting a stuck sparge. With the grains milled fine your conversion will be over in less than 30 minutes. With the mash at 30 minutes you won't be losing much heat from the pot from the time you add the grains until you pull the bag of grains out.

With all that in mind, you don't really need a basket since you only need to use the element to heat the water to strike temperature. Then you turn it off and add the bag and stir in the grains. Put a lid on to hold the heat, wait 30 minutes, pull the bag out and start heating again. You won't have to worry about the bag melting on the element.

Now since you don't have the basket holding the bag too far above the element, you can do whatever size batch you want, provided it will fit in the pot. If you did want to use the basket for the larger batches where the bag of grains would be heavier so the basket would make it easier to lift it out, you still have that option.
 
I completely agree with you RM-MN, however I think the OP is set on building an E-BIAB system with automation, likely with a pid and pump to recirculate.
Should this be the case, the volume below the basket will prohibit smaller batches at some point.

I would suggest that the OP builds the e-kettle, and try a couple batches using a traditional format without the automation.

Smaller batches could always be done without the basket and recirculating.

Typically I advise sizing the bag to the kettle, so it can be used either with, or without the basket.

I have chosen not to automate my brewery, but others love their pumps and pids, with flashy digital displays.

To each their own I guess :)
Cheers
 
I have the 44qt. pot and verified the measurements and they are correct. I like the pot and the basket and don't have any regrets. The posts above have great ideas for solutions to your situation. You could always use a little more water and boil a little longer too. You can find that pot a little cheaper than amazon but you have to look real hard. I use propane and recirculate while mashing and think this pot would be great for an ebiab setup.
 
I think the implication here is that your choice of the 44 qt makes sense. Also implied is that for a 5 gallon or smaller batch system is really simple to dial in for temperature retention with a small amount of insulation for the time full conversion takes.

All that being said, you can always use one of the many "traditional" methods to displace wort under the basket...marbles, chunks of plastic (preferably dense enough not to float) or SS, river rocks, etc. My favorite is a bag of rocks. You really only need about 1", right?
 
Thanks guys. I appreciate the replies. Definitely like the displacement idea. More water/longer boil is obvious solution I didn't even think of. Also thinking maybe I can find a grate or something that sits just above the element for smaller batches. Anyone have any thoughts on that or know where I could find one?

I will say... I checked for conversion during the last BIAB batch I did and everything was indeed wrapped up within 30min. The problem I had however was that my mash temp had plummeted during that half hour. And the same thing happened with the BIAB batch before that. Currently seem to be losing about 2deg every 10min. That's with a preheated kettle, wrapped in towels and sitting on a floor register while the heat is running. It's ridiculous. Enter the idea to build myself a rig with an element and pump...
 
The circulation setup I put together has a thermometer in it and I relight the burner when the temp drops a couple degrees, just like what your planning on doing with the element, just more involvement on my part. I've had more consistent results doing this over wrapping the kettle with insulation and just letting it sit an hour.
 
I EBIAB and use an 80 qt pot with a basket.I like having the basket.My suggestion(as IVE said before) is a big pot and 10 gallon batches.Everything except the pot for the entire build/setup is the same.So why limit yourself to 5 gallon batches. Twice the beer with the EXACT same brew day and equipment execpt the pot...no brainer
 
Thanks guys. I appreciate the replies. Definitely like the displacement idea. More water/longer boil is obvious solution I didn't even think of. Also thinking maybe I can find a grate or something that sits just above the element for smaller batches. Anyone have any thoughts on that or know where I could find one?

I will say... I checked for conversion during the last BIAB batch I did and everything was indeed wrapped up within 30min. The problem I had however was that my mash temp had plummeted during that half hour. And the same thing happened with the BIAB batch before that. Currently seem to be losing about 2deg every 10min. That's with a preheated kettle, wrapped in towels and sitting on a floor register while the heat is running. It's ridiculous. Enter the idea to build myself a rig with an element and pump...

I have the 44 qt and the basket and also this:
12.75" COMMERCIAL RESTAURANT STEAMER RACK / COOLING RACK
51AVRVF6WHL.jpg


some bolts and nuts and flatwashers and you can get it any height from the bottom you want.
 
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Do you have any rusting issues with these steamer racks? I've been looking for a stainless one but it seems they are all chrome plated steel.
 
Do you have any rusting issues with these steamer racks? I've been looking for a stainless one but it seems they are all chrome plated steel.


No rusting yet, as I am still building my system, but rinsed clean and dried should keep them ok. My grandmother had one in her canning pot for years and years that didn't appear to have any rust at all.
Also If they start to rust at $6 and $7 I'll just replace them.
 
Thanks guys. I appreciate the replies. Definitely like the displacement idea. More water/longer boil is obvious solution I didn't even think of. Also thinking maybe I can find a grate or something that sits just above the element for smaller batches. Anyone have any thoughts on that or know where I could find one?

I will say... I checked for conversion during the last BIAB batch I did and everything was indeed wrapped up within 30min. The problem I had however was that my mash temp had plummeted during that half hour. And the same thing happened with the BIAB batch before that. Currently seem to be losing about 2deg every 10min. That's with a preheated kettle, wrapped in towels and sitting on a floor register while the heat is running. It's ridiculous. Enter the idea to build myself a rig with an element and pump...

If you are adventurous you should check your conversion much sooner. You may find that the 2 degree drop every 10 minutes is a moot point when your conversion is done in 5.:eek:
 
My suggestion is a big pot and 10 gallon batches.

I'm all for versatility, but my main concern from the start was the ability to do small test batches (2-3gal). Maybe that's possible with with the big pot, but I question how much water would be above the element...

I have the 44 qt and the basket and also this:
12.75" COMMERCIAL RESTAURANT STEAMER RACK / COOLING RACK

Thanks man. That's what I was looking for.

If you are adventurous you should check your conversion much sooner. You may find that the 2 degree drop every 10 minutes is a moot point when your conversion is done in 5.:eek:

Hah. RM-MN, I somehow knew you wouldn't be able to resist! I'll definitely be checking it sooner next time if for nothing other than curiosity.
 
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Maybe I got a bad one, but mine is going straight in the garbage. It's a little strange these aren't just made in stainless steel.

Rusty%20Rack.01.jpg


Rusty%20Rack.02.jpg


There is a cooling rack in stainless steel made by Schneider, but it doesn't have the fold out legs that make this one perfect besides the rusty mess.
 
Maybe I got a bad one, but mine is going straight in the garbage. It's a little strange these aren't just made in stainless steel.
There is a cooling rack in stainless steel made by Schneider, but it doesn't have the fold out legs that make this one perfect besides the rusty mess.

Sheesh thats rough, life and crappy Montana weather have kept me from finishing my eBiaB build and making my first brew so I haven't gotten to experience the rust yet. How long before all the rust set in?
 
Maybe I got a bad one, but mine is going straight in the garbage. It's a little strange these aren't just made in stainless steel.



There is a cooling rack in stainless steel made by Schneider, but it doesn't have the fold out legs that make this one perfect besides the rusty mess.

Hey I was pokin around on Amazon today and found this. Stainless Steel

Capture.JPG
 
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Says it's nickel plated. Sometimes the chinese like to say chrome or nickel plated steel is therefore "stainless" steel.
 
Welds can rust if proper filler is not used. Reminds me of stainless clamps that have a stainless band and a mild steel screw...defeats the purpose of going stainless.
 
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