How many times are you going to troll this thread, dude?
Probably every time I feel like it.
How many times are you going to troll this thread, dude?
Go away.
Finally sent my Thermapen back in. Was sick of it not working.
So, with the shipping cost to send it back, and the repair cost (probably at least $25), I could've got a couple more thermos that actually work.![]()
I've been using my $20 ThermoWerks RT600B for years. Great probe. No issues.
The ThermoWorks RT600C has worked great for me for years and it's like, $18. Not sure why anyone would need to make the jump to ThermoPen unless your working in a super high paced environment (i.e. not a garage).
I just sent mine back last week too. I purchased it used from a member on this forum thinking I was getting a good deal. Didn't work right since I got it, and now the price on them new has dropped...
I got this one from my grocery store with the grilling stuff. It works so well, I have 3 of them now. Backlight, fast, accurate, waterproof, C/F. Not sure what the allure of the Thermapen is, but I've found a great solution for kitchen, grilling, and brewing.
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The price on the "old" Super Fast Splash-Proof model has indeed been dropped - but that's because they're "old", and the new Mark 4 model has been released - at the same price as what the "old" model sold.
I have to say I'd never buy something like a thermometer used as it seems unlikely one would actually sell a fully-functional thermometer at any meaningful discount...unless the seller needed to scratch up bail money in a hurry.
Even then I'd be skeptical...
Cheers!
Shh! Don't tell anyone but that it the exact one I use too! It's very acccurate at mash temps, as verified by several other thermometers.. I think I paid $12 for mine...
Fred
Hmm... first it was $20, now it's $18? Well, which is it?! Seems like your story is full of holes! I call shennanigans!
Hmm... first it was $20, now it's $18? Well, which is it?! Seems like your story is full of holes! I call shennanigans!
What I get a kick out of is that it's so easy to make a calibration correction chart for ANY thermometer that is isn't even funny. My MOST accurate unit is a Pt100 RTD hooked to a PID readout that I calibrated. It is what I then use to calibrate other thermometers.
What you do is go to Google Earth, and look up your place. Round to the nearest 100 feet of elevation. Look up the boiling point at your elevation. Boil RO or DI water. Insert the thermometer, and let settle for.. oh five minutes or so. Note the reading on the thermometer if it isn't adjustable.. if it is, tweak the adjustment.
At that point you are probably close enough and good enough to know the correction at mash temperature for the device.
Then put ice into relatively pure water. Up to about 100 ppm TDS is probably good enough (I say this because you generally don't need to freeze DI water for this). Let it settle for 15 minutes. Read the the reading, that is your "cold" correction factor. If, you are, for example setting up a keezer or ferm chamber this one is the likely "close enough" reading.
You can then take the slope of those two points to figure out a better correction at any temperature but I'll leave that exercise up to the reader. On an adjustable unit you can back and forth those two setting adjustments until you get it perfect if you want, but generally the thermometers are linear enough in that range that you will find it to almost be exact anyway.
But you can take a thermometer that reads way off and still use it with the correction factor you just found assuming that it's still linear. And it will indeed be accurate to better than 1F that way.
That sounds like a lot of work. I'd rather pay someone else to do that for me. That's why I bought the Thermapen.![]()
What you do is go to Google Earth, and look up your place. Round to the nearest 100 feet of elevation. Look up the boiling point at your elevation.
One up. Seam got too hot on my hand and I dropped my CDN into the boil. Fished it out with a long spoon. Didn't miss a beat. (Yeah, I know. The temperature was boiling. So why was I checking?)dropped my Thermapen in hlt last brew session at 165f. took about a minute to get it out and thought for sure it would be in bad shape. Nope, still works like a charm and is all clean.
All my CDN's would be off by 5 to 10 degrees which would most likely affect my mash efficiency.
So are you going to throw it out and buy a new one every six months or so to keep it in calibration? Or send it in?
8 years of being a test engineer has taught me even the best equipment can't hold a calibration forever. And as nice as a thermapen might be, it is crap compared to lab grade equipment...
A homebrewer claiming that boiling water is hard... sigh... stubborn people...
What I get a kick out of is that it's so easy to make a calibration correction chart for ANY thermometer that is isn't even funny. My MOST accurate unit is a Pt100 RTD hooked to a PID readout that I calibrated. It is what I then use to calibrate other thermometers.
What you do is go to Google Earth, and look up your place. Round to the nearest 100 feet of elevation. Look up the boiling point at your elevation. Boil RO or DI water. Insert the thermometer, and let settle for.. oh five minutes or so. Note the reading on the thermometer if it isn't adjustable.. if it is, tweak the adjustment.
At that point you are probably close enough and good enough to know the correction at mash temperature for the device.
Then put ice into relatively pure water. Up to about 100 ppm TDS is probably good enough (I say this because you generally don't need to freeze DI water for this). Let it settle for 15 minutes. Read the the reading, that is your "cold" correction factor. If, you are, for example setting up a keezer or ferm chamber this one is the likely "close enough" reading.
You can then take the slope of those two points to figure out a better correction at any temperature but I'll leave that exercise up to the reader. On an adjustable unit you can back and forth those two setting adjustments until you get it perfect if you want, but generally the thermometers are linear enough in that range that you will find it to almost be exact anyway.
But you can take a thermometer that reads way off and still use it with the correction factor you just found assuming that it's still linear. And it will indeed be accurate to better than 1F that way.
I just sent mine back last week too. I purchased it used from a member on this forum thinking I was getting a good deal. Didn't work right since I got it, and now the price on them new has dropped...
My thermapen still hasn't returned. Not sure if it's lost in the mail or what...
All the thermometer a truly skilled brewer really needs:
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I don't want that in my wort. Who knows where it's been.![]()