The plan

[Islandboy85]

Its late at work and were slow, so im working out some ideas about a future e-build. I'm planning on learning the Arduino platform and building my own version of the Brewtroller. I want to be able to build the system so that I can automate it in the future if I want to. Considering the cost of stainless servo ball valves I'm thinking three way valves would be the way to go. I'm trying to cut out stuff I don't need to be able to put bells and whistles elsewhere. Does anyone see a problem with my one pump two tier design that always pumps through my CFC on the way to the kettle? I do whirlpool in my kettle.

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

Is your HEX not going to be located inside the HLT?

 

[Islandboy85]

Is your HEX not going to be located inside the HLT?

I'm not sure yet if ill be making a RIMS or HERMS. Right now it's just the representation. From what I've read though, if I go with a HERMS it's better to have a separate HEX.

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

From what I've read though, if I go with a HERMS it's better to have a separate HEX.

Why's that? Most of the setups I've seen here are 3 vessle, with the HEX in the HLT. I suppose if you had a smaller, HEX specific vessle you could more quickly change the temperature of the water... but that's one extra heating element, more wasted water, and the difference can't be that huge, or so I'd think.

As for your schematic - seems good to me. You talk about automating it, but you'll be installing manual valves?

 

[Islandboy85]

Why's that? Most of the setups I've seen here are 3 vessle, with the HEX in the HLT. I suppose if you had a smaller, HEX specific vessle you could more quickly change the temperature of the water... but that's one extra heating element, more wasted water, and the difference can't be that huge, or so I'd think.

As for your schematic - seems good to me. You talk about automating it, but you'll be installing manual valves?

The smaller HEX in a HERMS allows for faster temp changes ie mash out from what I've read. For right now the process of temp control is the biggest automation goal, but I figure if I ever fall into a pile of money I'd like to be able throw in some servo ball valves too.

My big concern was when I'm transferring from the MLT to my KTL that going through the CFC instead of bypassing it wouldn't be a problem. I got to thinking though, I usually sparge too quickly, so if the CFC ads some resistance, ill probably get a better sparge. My HLT would probably be the first solenoid valve I'd put in so I'd only have to worry about my takeoff rate rather than fiddling with both.

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

True, a smaller volume HEX-tank would allow the water temperature to heat up quicker, so temperature transfer to the coil and into the mash would have a quicker rise. It only takes a few minutes for my HLT to raise 10 or so degrees if I'm doing a step mash, which isn't a whole lot of time in the greater scheme of things, and is definitely better than having a 4th tank, another PID, and another heating element / plug. Your setup would definitely work with 4 tanks, it's just not what I would chose.

There should be no issue flowing through the CFC. You'll end up leaving a lot of wort behind, depending on how long the CFC is / what diameter tubing you use. So when you're sparging, your final runnings will sit in the CFC until you start recirculating the BK through the CFC to sanatize everything with heat (assuming that's the process you're going with).

I wouldn't count on the CFC to provide the resistance you need to get the right flow while sparging - put a valve on the outlet of your pump and use tha to throttle your flow.

As for going with electric valves eventually - unfortunately, I had the same thought once upon a time (as have others) and not once has anyone been able to find a true 3-way valve. All the electric 3-way valves on the market will allow you to switch between Flow A or Flow B, but none of them allow Flow A, Flow B, or Off (no flow). This may not be a big issue to you, or you may be the lucky one to find the ever ellusive valve, but something to consider before you get too far into a design that may not work for your eventual end goal.

 

[Islandboy85]

True, a smaller volume HEX-tank would allow the water temperature to heat up quicker, so temperature transfer to the coil and into the mash would have a quicker rise. It only takes a few minutes for my HLT to raise 10 or so degrees if I'm doing a step mash, which isn't a whole lot of time in the greater scheme of things, and is definitely better than having a 4th tank, another PID, and another heating element / plug. Your setup would definitely work with 4 tanks, it's just not what I would chose.

There should be no issue flowing through the CFC. You'll end up leaving a lot of wort behind, depending on how long the CFC is / what diameter tubing you use. So when you're sparging, your final runnings will sit in the CFC until you start recirculating the BK through the CFC to sanatize everything with heat (assuming that's the process you're going with).

I wouldn't count on the CFC to provide the resistance you need to get the right flow while sparging - put a valve on the outlet of your pump and use tha to throttle your flow.

As for going with electric valves eventually - unfortunately, I had the same thought once upon a time (as have others) and not once has anyone been able to find a true 3-way valve. All the electric 3-way valves on the market will allow you to switch between Flow A or Flow B, but none of them allow Flow A, Flow B, or Off (no flow). This may not be a big issue to you, or you may be the lucky one to find the ever ellusive valve, but something to consider before you get too far into a design that may not work for your eventual end goal.

If I go with a HERMS I may due as you suggested. Right now in the drawing I just had it drawn in so I know the wort path is going somewhere. It was more of a block diagram than true schematic of a system. The CFC is 35' of 3/8. I do have a ball valve, I'm just usually impatient half way through sparging. That clarifies why everyone used regular servo valves instead of three port valves. Thanks. In retrospect a pump is cheaper than a bunch of valves to manifold the pump inlet, so I may as well just build a single tier.