Thank god for GFCI protection! Whet went wrong?!?!

[thomasjr16]

So I got my 30 amp outlet installed, tested the voltage (246v at the receptacle), and plugged my panel in.

I'm using an inline 30 amp GFCI cord from the panel to the outlet. The GFCI has a series of steps to determine its in working order, and it checked out (plug in, press test button, press reset button, look for red flag to appear, continue use if flag appears).

I turned my pump switches on/off and the LEDs light appeared correctly when respective switch was on. I also checked function with two small lamps.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1420322141.148385.jpg

I then proceeded to setup the PID and changed the Sn (temp prob setting) to 21 since I'm using an RTD. At this point the PV value was ambient (60) and the SV was 50. I have a 30 amp DP switch wired between the bus/ssr and outlet to cut power to the element if needed. I'm doing all of this without an element plugged in, just trying to verify that each outlet was getting power or not and switch were working. The temp sensor was plugged in though to see if a signal was being sent. Here's pics of the internal wiring.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1420322429.021914.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1420322352.365683.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1420322458.889657.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1420322483.909666.jpg

The element switch was in the off position (although in a above pic it is in the on position, I turned it off before programming the PID). To see if the SSR would send power to the outlet and turn the light on, I adjusted the SV up to 65 in hopes the PID would tell the SSR to send power. I then turned the double pole light switch, felt a slight shock and heard a loud pop (and slight burning plastic smell) come from the control box. The GFCI tripped and tripped the 30 amp main panel breaker as well. When I opened the box, the plastic SSR cover was off and charred. The above SSR pic was post "pop" so it didn't expand or pop from its casing, just the cover.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1420322986.388269.jpg

The right side is less charred (it's the side allowing power from the bus to the switch) and the left side receives power from the PID. The little red SSR power light is where the circular char is located.

Did I do something wrong? Should I have had the element plugged in? Assuming the SSR is shot and was it faulty?

I've triple checked the wiring and everything is fine correctly according the PJs plan and my understanding. I also reset the breaker (with the DP switch off) and turned the panel back on. The PID and pump switches work as before but I didn't try anything else with the PID temp setting as I just wanted to see if anything else blew.

 

[Loodachris]

I did the exact same thing to 2 of my ssr's while trying to configure and trouble shoot my panel and found out that I had wired my toggle switches wrong. Ordered new ssr's and toggle switches because they were destroyed as well rewired those and now everything works great. Double check whatever switches turn the elements on and off and go from there. Thought someone shot a gun in my garage it was that loud so I know what you went through. Scary for sure

 

[thomasjr16]

That was my first inspection. I have one hot leg going from the bus to SSR #1 then from SSR #2 to one side of the DPST switch. I have the other hot leg going from the bus to the 2nd terminal on the DPST switch. The switch is just input output so it shouldn't matter which side of the switch is receiving power and sending power, as long as both inputs are on the same side. I guess I'm gonna have to contact Auber and ask for a replacement SSR and probably return the DPST switch to HD as well to start fresh,

 

[thomasjr16]

Looks like I may have misinterpreted the wiring diagram for the DPST switch, should the two hots be on opposite sides, at the bottom and not the same side? Has anyone else wiring a DPST 30 amp switch?

 

[thomasjr16]

Here's the DPST switch and diagram from the box. I wired both hots to the same side and same colored screws, but now I'm thinking the hots would go to opposite sides on the bottom and the outlet wires for each hot leg to the receptacle would come from the top sides and not the same side as I wired it.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1420329011.343760.jpg

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1420328992.063924.jpg

My wiring can be seen in the original post. Both hots on the left and exiting wires to the outlet on the right

 

[augiedoggy]

yup looks like you found the problem. I almost made the same mistake on my recent fermentation controller /chiller wiring.... FYI you can pick up the exact same replacement ssr that auber buys and rebrands/relabels, marks up and sells as their own on ebay. under the mager brand. (they are half priced with shipping from there)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-State...180?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a646f6d0c

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-State...157?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563e4c11dd

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-State...379?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item232c0be8e3

 

[Loodachris]

I bought this set after mine exploded and are still running strong. Got about 10 brews on them so far with no problems.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PCS-24-38...570?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7d9c5132

 

[thomasjr16]

That what I was planning on doing. Auber has been great to me so far but after this I want a spare or two on hand and at double the price, I'd rather spend $20 and have two. Thanks for the input

 

[augiedoggy]

I bought this set after mine exploded and are still running strong. Got about 10 brews on them so far with no problems.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PCS-24-38...570?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7d9c5132

I edited my links above.
Those look like the same fotek knock offs I have been using only mine dont have the shield The real foteks have a small 45 degree angle on the bottom right corner of the label indentation as well as the sticker from what I have read.... I had 30 brew on mine and they work great but I swapped one out for a single dual ssr about 5 brews ago... they are only about $4-6 shipped fdirect from china if you want to wait...

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

Definitely looks like your problem with the switch. Before I powered anything up, I used my multimeter to check continuity across all switches in the 'off' and 'on' position. If power was getting from one wire to another when it shouldn't - like you would have found in this scenario - the meter will tell you, without the pop, fizz, sparkle, and whiff of ozone. Because as we all learn with electronics - once you let out the magic smoke, they stop working.
-Kevin

 

[thomasjr16]

Definitely looks like your problem with the switch. Before I powered anything up, I used my multimeter to check continuity across all switches in the 'off' and 'on' position. If power was getting from one wire to another when it shouldn't - like you would have found in this scenario - the meter will tell you, without the pop, fizz, sparkle, and whiff of ozone. Because as we all learn with electronics - once you let out the magic smoke, they stop working.

-Kevin

I broke a cardinal rule of electrical wiring and didn't check all circuits, just ground with my multimeter after the initial wiring. Thankfully I did confirm ground was in order but it never dawned on me that I could have misinterpreted the switch wiring diagram.

After rewiring the switch, I checked everything in both off and on positions for continuity. Now EVERYTHING checks out and I learned a very valuable lesson in the process, as well as living to brew another day.

Thankfully the damage was localized to the SSR and not switch/PID/LEDs. Hoping to complete a water test this wknd as my backup SSRs and elements finally arrived.