Test Results: Understanding & Feedback

[BigusD]

Below are my tap (well) water test results.

I've entered these values in the Bru'n Water excel book. Based on this (if I understand correctly <<< which may be highly unlikely), it seems like if I use 50/50 RO and tap water, my strike water will be pretty close to good... (looking for a balanced result for IPAs mostly right now). In any case, if I understand, I'll be closer to good.

It may be worth noting that I'm pretty confused about all the facets here and what exactly I'm trying to achieve (aside from a good tasting brew). My finished results to date have been enjoyable... just trying to improve.

I also note, the Bru'n Water seems to suggest I should add some acid to my strike water. I tested PH on the one all grain batch I did. I took a sample shortly before the end of the mash and let it cool. PH was about 6.6 (exactly what Bru'n Water predicted... so maybe I'm on the right track)... So, I guess I need to add some acid to the strike water.

So, without further adieu. Here are my results... Any thoughts/suggestions/opinions/etc would be appreciated.



pH 7.7

Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 402

Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.67

Cations / Anions, me/L 7.6 / 8.1

ppm

Sodium, Na 17

Potassium, K 1

Calcium, Ca 86

Magnesium, Mg 31

Total Hardness, CaCO3 344

Nitrate, NO3-N 0.1 (SAFE)

Sulfate, SO4-S 7

Chloride, Cl 3

Carbonate, CO3 < 1.0

Bicarbonate, HCO3 461

Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 380

Total Phosphorus, P 0.13

Total Iron, Fe 2.51

 

[Gavin C]

That is very hard water. High alkalinity.

Diluting with RO for sure but with that level of hardness may be better to just use 90-100% RO water.

A mash pH of 6.6 is way out of acceptable range for enzyme efficacy and flavors to shine. That water as is unchanged is no good for brewing.

All mashes need acid in some form or another.

• Roasted/crystal malts
• Acid malt
• Acid itself (lactic or phosphoric are commonly used)
• Hours long beta-glucan rest (impractical and requires under-modified malts)

 

[BigusD]

That is very hard water. High alkalinity.

Diluting with RO for sure but with that level of hardness may be better to just use 90-100% RO water.

A mash pH of 6.6 is way out of acceptable range for enzyme efficacy and flavors to shine. That water as is unchanged is no good for brewing.

All mashes need acid in some form or another.

• Roasted/crystal malts
• Acid malt
• Acid itself (lactic or phosphoric are commonly used)
• Hours long beta-glucan rest (impractical and requires under-modified malts)

I appreciate the feedback. Yes, the water is quite hard. No doubt.

So... I'm looking at the Bru'n Water spreadsheet. If I've got everything setup correctly, the sheet seems to indicate using 50% RO water and adding 1.25 ml/gal (or so based on actual mash makeup) of 88% Lactic acid should result in an acceptable water makeup (though still a little high on bicarbonate at ~200ppm). For a simple mash of 2 row pale and a 1.5 Water to Grist ratio, the spreadsheet is kicking out PH of 5.6. Calcium, Magnesium, Sodium, Sulfate, Chlrodie are all green (in acceptable range) on the sheet. I'm not sure why you suggest 90-100% RO.

so... am I on the right track or totally of base here???

 

[Gavin C]

To put it bluntly. I'm wrong.

The numbers look solid with the adjustments you've made.

I guess I was unjustifiably concerned about the ~200ppm bicarbonate but of course there is no ideal for that it should not matter.

Nice result with the RO and a little lactic acid.

Thanks for sharing that.

 

[Yooper]

A mash pH of 5.6 is a bit to high. I'd try to get it to 5.3-5.5.

For an APA or IPA, I'd suggest some gypsum to increase the sulfate as well as the calcium also. In many of my APAs and IPAs, I like about 125-150 ppm of sulfate to start. You can always go higher if you love a ton of sulfate in yours, but I'd suggest starting with a more modest amount first. This may also lower your pH slightly, getting you right in the ballpark of 5.3-5.4.

If you're making something else, I'd use calcium chloride to increase the chloride and the calcium.

 

[Gavin C]

I think the OP just inputted a test mash (only 2-row) to see where he/she is at.

I think with an addition of some roast/crystal malt the mash pH would lower to a more acceptable level. Lighter beers may still pose problems.

One nice feature of the upgraded Bru'n water is that it gives some recomended mash pH ranges depending on the beer type. (light or dark). Granted very crude descriptors but one more useful part of the software.

 

[BigusD]

A mash pH of 5.6 is a bit to high. I'd try to get it to 5.3-5.5.

For an APA or IPA, I'd suggest some gypsum to increase the sulfate as well as the calcium also. In many of my APAs and IPAs, I like about 125-150 ppm of sulfate to start. You can always go higher if you love a ton of sulfate in yours, but I'd suggest starting with a more modest amount first. This may also lower your pH slightly, getting you right in the ballpark of 5.3-5.4.

If you're making something else, I'd use calcium chloride to increase the chloride and the calcium.

Thanks for the input!

I think I'm confirming that I understand this Bru'n Water workbook (sort of)... This really helps. I'll have to pick up some Gypsum and Lactic before my next brew.

Very helpful! Thanks again

 

[BigusD]

Thought I'd throw an update in here.

I did my first brew using the adjustments discussed above. (This was just my second all grain brew).

I tested PH hot and cold. Hot PH (meter straight into mash tun) was 5.0. When took a sample and let it cool, I got 5.3. So it seems like the adjustments nailed PH. I didn't test PH of my sparge water (fly sparging). The adjustments were different for the mash water and the sparge water. My efficiency came up significantly over my first all grain brew, right about 70% this time. I also adjusted volumes of both sparge and mash water, and arrived at just over 6gal pre-boil this time... last time I was at about 5.75gal, which was under target.

In any case, thanks for the direct and indirect help HomeBrewTalk...

 

[mabrungard]

Its not terrible water, but its not great. One thing that is for sure, don't adding any magnesium salts to your water. You have pretty high Mg now. You should plan on dilution for those softer beer styles.

That alkalinity will require that you acidify your water in almost every case.

 

[doug293cz]

What are the units on the iron (Fe)? If they are ppm (mg/l) then the Fe is too high, even after 50/50 dilution with RO.

Brew on