Temperature Control

[pudnana]

I have a fridge that I have an Inkbird temperature controller hooked up to. I am curious if someone has an idea of if I should keep my temperatures in a short 4-6 degree range or should I set my temp controller to kick on and off at the temperature the manufacturer says is the optimal range for the yeast I'm using. For instance, I'm currently fermenting a sweet stout. I pitched Nottingham yeast. The range per the manufacturer is 57-70f. Currently I have my set up to kick on at 68F and kick off at 61F. Should I change this to kick on at 70F and kick off at 57F or set it even a different way?

 

[Schecter]

I usually start my fermentation at 62F (using S-05 or Conan) and ramp up to 68F with a 1 degree differential. My freeze is brand new and holds its temp very well. It usually will cool to 61F (with the target at 62F) so it needs to climb an additional 2 degrees (to 63F) to have the freezer actually kick on. I feel this isn't overkill and it has produced phenomenal beers. The range you are currently using seems fine, and will probably be better for the fridge in the long run (although, I am not terribly worried). As you are not trying to get any particular flavor from the esters of the yeast and wouldn't particularly benefit from either the high or low temperatures in the suggested yeast range, I would either keep the range you have or even consider narrowing that range.

 

[alphaomega]

The important thing (that hasn't been mentioned yet), is that you should tape the probe to the side of the fermenter. It is the temperature of the beer you want to control, not the fridge temp.
But, if fridge temp strays too far from setpoint, it will still influence the measured temperature and sort of limit wild over/undershoots. Note that this can be a bit trial and error, you want for the main part the temperature of the fermenter. If you have a thick walled glass or plastic fermenter, you might want to add some light insulation over the probe.
The beer has a lot of thermal mass, so there is no problem having a narrow hysteresis (like 1 deg F), cycling of the compressor will still be limited as it takes time to 'move' the temperature of the beer, even just a degree. It is better to use a compressor delay (if the inkbird has it, but I think it does) and set it to at least 10 minutes to ensure cycling is not too frequent.

 

[Bellybuster]

Take this as an opportunity to research exactly what your yeast will offer you at which end of the temp range. You don't want the temp swinging 10 degrees. I have mine set at 1 degree difference.
Depending on what you're brewing, yeast will offer positive or negative (subjective) results at differing temperatures. Even inside the recommended temps.

Agree with above regarding probe placement.

 

[ncbrewer]

Take this as an opportunity to research exactly what your yeast will offer you at which end of the temp range. You don't want the temp swinging 10 degrees. I have mine set at 1 degree difference.
Depending on what you're brewing, yeast will offer positive or negative (subjective) results at differing temperatures. Even inside the recommended temps.

Agree with above regarding probe placement.

This. In particular, the wide temp swings should be avoided. I've read that a 4 degree F daily swing should be the max. Less is better.

As far as the Nottingham yeast, they state that near the low end of the range you will get a very clean, lager-like flavor. You might not want that for a typical ale. Cheers.

 

[pudnana]

I appreciate the responses. I set the controller at 61 with 4 degree range. I'm thinking that should hold the temp of the beer near 63-64. Just an fyi fit the commenters, I'm fermenting a stout, so hopefully keeping it at the range I'm at, it will come out tasty!