Tan pump... gone through 3 so far....

[haeffnkr]

Hi,
I have two little 24v tan brew pumps. i run them at 24 volts. I use one to pump 140 ish mash water over to the MT and have no issues with it for years. My RIMS pump keeps quitting on me. I run the temps of my step mash up to 170F. My step mash goes from 140 to 170 and takes a couple hours. Is that too hot for the pump to take. I saw some adds for the pumps on Amazon that say it can only take 122F.

Thoughts on why it is quitting? My RIMS is here - New 30" RIMS

thanks haeffnkr

 

[Bobby_M]

Because they are at the bottom of the cheap crap food chain. Spend $100 on a pump and it will last.

 

[haeffnkr]

Because they are at the bottom of the cheap crap food chain. Spend $100 on a pump and it will last.

I dont need a 5 gpm pump, what do you recommend?

 

[Jtvann]

I dont need a 5 gpm pump, what do you recommend?

Follow Bobby’s advice. You should put a valve on the out flow of a pump to throttle it down.

 

[cyberbackpacker]

If you get an MKII you can even use a simple PWM to fine tune the flow rate to what you do want, no valve necessary.

 

[Barbarossa]

My avil pump came with a clamp to restrict the flow. Just need to put it after the pump, no before.

 

[Jayjay1976]

If you get an MKII you can even use a simple PWM to fine tune the flow rate to what you do want, no valve necessary.

+1 on the MKII, great pump for the money. Mine has tons of miles on it and never a hiccup. Silent and plenty of flow for smaller setups.
-get the optional stainless head
-add a 1/2" ball valve on the pump outlet to throttle flow.

 

[haeffnkr]

I have a MKII pump that use on my BK. They are great, but a bit big for my RIMS needs, both physically and output wise.

Any sources on a PWM for an AC motor?

thanks for all the help!

 

[augiedoggy]

At home I'm still using the tan pumps after about 7 years now.. I did go from 12v versions to the more powerful 24v ones in 2014 but been using the same ones since besides the one I burned up when trying to use two in tandem. I admit its been a while since ive brewed at home though. I suspect its the 170 degrees thats burning up the pump since its also straining to pull through the mash. at the same time and overheating causing the pps to warp and magnet to seize? I use mine for sparge water only at 170 with no problems but its turned down to sparge at 1gpm I use 3 pumps which are hardplumbed into my system. you also want a good powersupply that puts out more than 2amps continuously. I now the 12v ones say they need less but I measured the amps they actually pull under load and its higher. many of these tan pumps die due to crap power.

At the brewpub I use 2 of the version of the TD5 topsflow specifically designed for brewing and pwm speed control that brewpi sells.. I have not found anyone else who offers the TD5 without the built in solar MPPT controller which literally counteracts the pwm signal making the speed control less reactive and offers less control. We also use a riptide for rims recirculation which has served us well. This pump would likely work well for you.

We also use 2 huge stainless generic sanitary pumps for cleaning which would be overkill for anything homebrewing wise except maybe CIP. and a 17GPM chugger style pump which I bought for CIP but found its too weak to do the job well so its used for cleaning kegs.

 

[sicktght311]

I’ve got a 12v tan pump on the outlet of my HLT, and a Mark II as my wort pump. Both perform exceptionally well for their duties

That being said, in the 2.5 years my brewing system has been running, I’ve replaced the tan pump once at 2 years, and the Mark II is still going. For the price, I don’t mind replacing a tan pump whenever it dies since it’s just a clean water pump