Switching to eBIAB

[jjkeegan86]

Why not get a harbor freight tool cart?

Do you have a link out to one you'd recommend?

 

[Tagobolts]

Curious on your bill of costs, if that is something you don't mind sharing.

 

[jjkeegan86]

Curious on your bill of costs, if that is something you don't mind sharing.

I've been piecing it all together rather slowly, maybe to avoid knowing how much I've actually spent?

Anyways here's a pretty complete part list

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...SUvc-P65l8G5jgJQReTeNIf4SE8/edit?usp=drivesdk

 

[jjkeegan86]

Pretty crazy to see plans come to life. Going to add a drawer at the top, sand it, stain it, put on some casters, then mount my control panel and pump

 

[Ahks]

Looks heavy, but solid

 

[jjkeegan86]

Got it stained, Super heavy, very solid

 

[jjkeegan86]

Couple shiny coats of polyurethane, mounted the panel, and threw on the casters. Coming along nicely.

Not sure if I like how low the panel is, might try to tilt where the bottom attaches to the cart to make it come up a bit. Or find a mount that will telescope up.

Should I be worried about splashing onto the low panel?

**Also pictured, the old 3 vessel gas system, and the kitchen cart that did not make the homebrew equipment cut.

 

[doug293cz]

Yes, you should try to find somewhere not at risk for splashes to mount the control panel.

Brew on

 

[Ahks]

That kitchen cart is giving me ideas for this old bathroom cabinet I'm using... [emoji848]


Partially gut it, build a lower/sunken countertop, throw some casters on it... Still have the drawer for my salts and scale and the doors for storage of other things

 

[jjkeegan86]

Well, I messed this up somewhere, as soon as I switch the panel on all the 110 outlets are hot on both sides and the main contactor isn't turning on. I can't find any strange continuities between the plugs and the inlet so I don't think there's a short anywhere. I feel so defeated.

 

[doug293cz]

Well, I messed this up somewhere, as soon as I switch the panel on all the 110 outlets are hot on both sides and the main contactor isn't turning on. I can't find any strange continuities between the plugs and the inlet so I don't think there's a short anywhere. I feel so defeated.

How about some overview and detail pics of the inside of your enclosure from multiple angles. Good focus is important.

Brew on

 

[jjkeegan86]

How about some overview and detail pics of the inside of your enclosure from multiple angles. Good focus is important.

Brew on

Alright, it's kind of a mess but here it is.

 

[jjkeegan86]

This is mostly my wiring diagram , made a few changes like a another regular outlet

 

[jjkeegan86]

Oh and ignore the whole pump ssr relay part that's different now

 

[jjkeegan86]

Guess I'll start ripping this thing apart. Does the contractor coil wiring make a difference if the hot goes to a1 or a2? This is how I have it now

 

[jjkeegan86]

Sorry forgot the attachment

 

[jjkeegan86]

Well I tried switching these, no dice

 

[BeardedBrews]

Can you describe the contactor problem a bit more? You say it doesn't turn on, but that the panel outlets are hot. Does that mean that the main contactor is allowing power through (stuck closed)?

Trouble shooting from this point is going to involve a multimeter and checking the connections along the wiring path.

 

[jjkeegan86]

Yeah maybe that's the case with the contactor, but Im not sure of there's anything getting across it, but I still wouldn't expect the pump outlets to have power until I actually turn the switch on. The contactor should make a sound when it turns on right?

 

[BeardedBrews]

Sorry forgot the attachment View attachment 618891

Most will click, yeah.

To trouble shot that contactor plug in the controller, switch the main switch off, and grab your multimeter. Set it to volts and check these:

2 and 4 - 220v
A1 and A2 - 0v
1 and 3 - 0v

Then turn on the switch:

2 and 4 - 220v
A1 and A2 - 110v
1 and 3 - 220v

 

[jjkeegan86]

Most will click, yeah.

To trouble shot that contactor plug in the controller, switch the main switch off, and grab your multimeter. Set it to volts and check these:

2 and 4 - 220v
A1 and A2 - 0v
1 and 3 - 0v

Then turn on the switch:

2 and 4 - 220v
A1 and A2 - 110v
1 and 3 - 220v

Alright, when it's off there is 250 at 2 and 4 nothing at 1 and 3, turning it on makes no change

 

[BeardedBrews]

Alright, when it's off there is 250 at 2 and 4 nothing at 1 and 3, turning it on makes no change

Is there anything at a1 and a2 when the switch is on?

 

[jjkeegan86]

Is there anything at a1 and a2 when the switch is on?

Nothing at a1 and a2 either, is there a way to test that voltage is coming through the switch?

 

[jjkeegan86]

There is continuity in the switch when I turn it on vs having it off

 

[jjkeegan86]

And continuity between a1 and the power inlet, and a2 and the neutral inlet

 

[jjkeegan86]

Rewired the switch to try and power just once off the outlets and a lamp, and nothing

 

[BeardedBrews]

There are jumpers on the switches that aren't called out on the wiring diagram you posted so I'm going to be a little limited in the help I can give.

Going back to the beginning you mentioned that the pump outlets have power, but it sounds like the main relay has no power at 1 and 3. This would mean that somewhere between the power input in the enclosure and that main relay you've got power branching off into the rest of your stuff. This isn't good.

The only thing attached to power before that main relay should be the loop that goes to the main power switch, and you shouldn't share that loop with any of the other switches.

 

[jjkeegan86]

I'm now doubting those outlets were powered, but my little current tester was saying there was current, Ive disconnected everything, and just testing the voltage through the estop to the neutral terminal blocks im getting 12 volts. Which seems really weird

 

[jjkeegan86]

And going from 2 or 4 to the neutral on a2 is also just reading 10-12 volts

 

[jjkeegan86]

Alright so im thinking there's an issue with my spa panel, and or outlet, only getting 12 volts between the neutral and the hot wires