Switchcraft's plug and outlet option

[theknub]

So, just to spell it out , we need the:

502-HPCC4F (cord plug)
502-HPCP41F (Panel mount outlet)

 

[jbnla]

So, just to spell it out , we need the:

502-HPCC4F (cord plug)
502-HPCP41F (Panel mount outlet)

Yes that is correct

 

[smittygouv30]

For what's its worth (and this might be common sense) make sure you use flat bolts/screws for the receptacle in order to allow the plug to "snap-in". I initially used rounded bolts and was so confused as to why I couldn't get the plug to snap-in place. I realized that the rounded bolt was preventing the plug for penetrating deep enough to lock in place.

-Corey

Pictures are of the flat screws that allow the plug to lock in.

 

[JRems]

I used aluminum 1/8" rivets instead of screws. They look a little cleaner than screws, I used them for the xlr panel mount as well.

 

[theknub]

i got mine and am very close to wrapping up my build. however, i have the xerox copier gfci and the compression nut even had issue slipping over some of the wires. knowing how much i'd have to "chisel out" to slip it on, i went ahead and just bought a locking plug and receptacle. on the plus side, no confusion about what is what and an accidental plug in... just need to wait a few days for them to come on.

on the downside, waiting some more.

love this recommendation though. thanks.

 

[alien]

Has anyone contacted Switchcraft and asked them whether this is a suitable application for these plugs and sockets? I am rather dubious myself.

 

[Broham1]

You mean besides this, found on page 1 of the same thread you're replying to?

We beat this around quite a bit in the https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/show-us-your-element-housings-pots-how-did-you-do-212079/ thread. Runs4beer did get this answer directly from Switchcraft: "The connectors are rated for 50 A (for the Fast-on terminal type) and 1500 VAC rms. There should be no problem with the customer's application."

Here's what I posted in the other thread:

Switchcraft certainly stands behind using the HPC (High Power Connector) series for this type of use. In addition to the email cited above, from the product sheet:

Markets
• Loudspeakers
• Power audio amplifiers
• Medical
• Process Controls

From the specs:

High Power Connector, 30 A Current Rating, Silver-Plated over Copper Alloy Contact Material
30 A Rating Per UL 1977 on PC Mount Versions
50 A Rating Per UL 1977 on Faston® Versions
1500 VAC (RMS)

 

[orangehero]

Neutrik, who appears to make the premium version of these connectors, specifically warns against use of their speakON connector for AC mains or power supply.

http://www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/stx-series/nlt4fx

They make a different, more robust version for power:
http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/powercon/powercon-32-a/

 

[MX1]

Neutrik, who appears to make the premium version of these connectors, specifically warns against use of their speakON connector for AC mains or power supply.

http://www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/stx-series/nlt4fx

They make a different, more robust version for power:
http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/powercon/powercon-32-a/

So, if I am not using them to supply the Main, but rather just power from box to element, I should be ok with the Switchcraft then?

Tim

 

[alien]

Customer review not favourable compared to Neutrik products... FWIW.

http://reviews.parts-express.com/24...n-hpc-speaker-connectors-reviews/category.htm

Can't help feeling that powercon is the way to go. But I've ordered a couple of the Switchcraft HPCs to take a look.

 

[AllanMar]

I have both (20a powercon and speakon), the powerCON are much nicer connectors (and neutrik in general IMHO). But the difference in cost puts them in a different category when it comes to comparing them....

 

[tyfernandez]

I bought my Powercon's off Ebay. It looks like the seller took the auction down but if you message them perhaps they could help you out. They are generic versions, but they're also a steal if you order a bunch. I got 7 sets for right around 30 bucks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370641946200

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290764950045

 

[jeffmeh]

The Neutrik Powercon's have only 3 poles, correct?

 

[AllanMar]

The Neutrik Powercon's have only 3 poles, correct?

Yes.

Those cheap ebay ones are only the 20a ones iirc. Since they're generic they likely don't have the certifications either so your in the same boat as the switchcraft.

 

[alien]

I've decided to go with Jeffmeh's suggestion of trying the Switchcraft HPC's on the power input side of the heating element housings. I will stick with L6-30R's for the power output from the control panel to the heating elements. For the 50A input to the control panel I might just use a pigtail.

Obviously, if I use these connectors I will be checking, double checking, triple checking which terminal connects to which. I feel uneasy about how easy it would be to mix up the terminals with lethal results. I am not familiar with the electrical code but surely on connectors that are intended for mains power the hot, neutral and ground terminals must be explicitly marked as such (as they are on the powercon connectors). Perhaps this is why the Switchcraft HPC connectors are not marketed for mains power use even though they fulfil the technical specifications (as far as I can tell). But it makes me slightly wary of the recommendation given by the Switchcraft engineer, via their customer service.

I'm on the fence, but I think there are definitely people out there who might conclude that for a few $ extra the powercon's are worth the peace of mind.

 

[MX1]

So, for 120v pumps could you use these as well?

 

[alien]

Certainly although the 20A powercons are what I'd suggest. The price is similar.

It's only where you need more than 20A or all 4 wires that I would consider the Switchcraft connectors at all.

 

[Handsaw]

The big deal is to not plug or unplug them with the power on.
The big drawback for me is that they are tough to wire up with 12/3 stranded wire. I did it but I had to use a dremmel tool to enlarge the hole in the plug to get the cable through.

 

[alien]

Powercon true1 connectors (limited to 16A) can be disconnected while live which is a really good feature. But not powercon 20A, powercon 32A, or the Switchcraft HPC connectors.

 

[alien]

I got the Switchcraft HPC male and female connector in the mail yesterday. I am not particularly impressed with them. The male and female parts click together, not a satisfying clunk but the connection feels solid. The terminals are very close together, lack screw terminals, and the insulating barriers are extremely short, so insulated spade terminals are really the only way to go. I don't know how these can be recommended for 1500V and 50A.

My $0.02: They look and feel like the cheap Speakon knock offs they are.

 

[Broham1]

Actually, the fast-on disconnects from the OP are a very secure fit.

 

[LandoLincoln]

I'm on the fence, but I think there are definitely people out there who might conclude that for a few $ extra the powercon's are worth the peace of mind.

I'm trying to imagine a scenario when I'll be stupid enough to plug one end of a Switchcraft cord into the control panel and then go and plug the other end of the same cord right back into the control panel. I mean, I can do some dumb things, but I don't think I could ever do anything quite that stupid. "Red cord goes to red pot, black cord goes to black pot, make sure the cord ends that are connected to the control panel are not the same color before turning anything on. Done!"

But if you can imagine yourself doing something that dumb, then yeah, spend the extra bucks.

 

[MX1]

I'm trying to imagine a scenario when I'll be stupid enough to plug one end of a Switchcraft cord into the control panel and then go and plug the other end of the same cord right back into the control panel. I mean, I can do some dumb things, but I don't think I could ever do anything quite that stupid. "Red cord goes to red pot, black cord goes to black pot, make sure the cord ends that are connected to the control panel are not the same color before turning anything on. Done!"

But if you can imagine yourself doing something that dumb, then yeah, spend the extra bucks.

If this is the case I would suggest brewing with a buddy, or back to gas fired you go....lol

 

[runs4beer]

I got the Switchcraft HPC male and female connector in the mail yesterday. I am not particularly impressed with them. The male and female parts click together, not a satisfying clunk but the connection feels solid. The terminals are very close together, lack screw terminals, and the insulating barriers are extremely short, so insulated spade terminals are really the only way to go. I don't know how these can be recommended for 1500V and 50A.

My $0.02: They look and feel like the cheap Speakon knock offs they are.

Certainly don’t use anything that doesn’t feel right to you, that’s the nice part of DYI systems.
If you want that click when you push them together you can simply file the catch point with a flat file but what you will also add is adding “wiggle room” to the connection in order to get that click.
It’s funny; I like that the terminals are NOT screw down. I much prefer terminals that can solder on if needed, screws can come loose.
I wouldn’t recommend the use insulated blade terminals on their own; I suggest sliding shrink wrap all the way down covering everything, like the 7th image down on the OP.
When I rebuilt my BK housing (when from a Kal style box to a PVC tube) I inspected the plug and outlet under a 20x QC microscope to see if there was any burning or melting and I even compared it to the spare plug and outlet I have and they are unchanged. I’ve brewed 12 times (including one 3 hour boil) over the last year and have zero concerns/regrets about my set up.
Again, only do what you are comfortable with but really like my Switchcraft set up, it’s easier to uses and costs less the alternative and I have not found a down side to them.

 

[alien]

I'm trying to imagine a scenario when I'll be stupid enough to plug one end of a Switchcraft cord into the control panel and then go and plug the other end of the same cord right back into the control panel. I mean, I can do some dumb things, but I don't think I could ever do anything quite that stupid. "Red cord goes to red pot, black cord goes to black pot, make sure the cord ends that are connected to the control panel are not the same color before turning anything on. Done!"

But if you can imagine yourself doing something that dumb, then yeah, spend the extra bucks.

Power terminals with definite gender are a basic safety feature. Terminals that are clearly identifiable as ground, neutral, and hot are better than ones that are not.

I like basic safety features and will pay for them. If that's dumb, well it's my money.

 

[LandoLincoln]

I like basic safety features and will pay for them. If that's dumb, well it's my money.

That's not what I said. I said that if you're the kind of person that could conceivably plug the control panel back into itself, then yes, you definitely should spend the extra bucks. People that could do something like that are perhaps a little too comfortable working around electricity. I'm terrified of the stuff, so I can't ever envision myself ever doing something like that. And yet here I am, building my own e-brewery.

If I were a vendor selling control panels, then I'd also spend the extra bucks, since I wouldn't want to get sued if someone I sold a panel to plugged the panel back into itself and then turned on the panel.

 

[runs4beer]

Could be wrong but I think the two of you might be talking about different thing:
wiring the plug/outlets (panel assembly)
and
brew day set up

 

[LandoLincoln]

Could be wrong but I think the two of you might be talking about different thing:
wiring the plug/outlets (panel assembly)
and
brew day set up

Why yes, I do believe that we are!

 

[alien]

Ah, OK. Yes I am more concerned with wiring the thing up correctly. I am in a mire of spaghetti. I need colour coding, labels, anything that helps...

 

[runs4beer]

So, they ARE marked on both plug and outlet, it's small but they are consistently marked allowing you to establish Leg 1 & 2, neutral and ground and wiring that way consistently throughout. But regardless of how well marked any component is or how sure you are that follow your digram I would recommend double checking the continuity on all the runs with a multi meter before powering up for the first time.