Super Fun First Brew Day

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Indytruks138

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Sunday was my first brewday, and so far it seems to be quite a success. My buddy and I bought a kit from Homebrew Headquarters here in Richardson, got the super deluxe kit with everything we needed, and we did our first kit beer yesterday. Cleaning and sanitation were tedious but not bad at all and I think we did it all right. We did a ten minute boil per LHBS instructions, we almost had a boilover, we did a 2.5 gallon boil in a 4 gallon pot, but caught it right before it boiled over and averted the disaster.
We used a Murton's Nut Brown Ale kit, but instead of corn sugar the LHBS was nice enough to give us 2 lb amber malt extract to give the beer more body and a fuller flavor. We took a friend's advice and mixed the DME in some cold water before going to the pot, he said adding the DME to the pot clumps alot of the time. We took the can of LME and soaked it in hot water for about 15 minutes to thin it out and lessen the chance of it burning in the pot. Per the instructions we added the LME and DME at 170 degrees F and brought to a boil. We did the sink chilling method with cold water baths then finishing with an ice water bath. We were able to bring the 2.5 gallons of wort down to 80 degrees in less than 20 minutes, seemed quick enough to me.
I combined the wort and pre-boiled top off water in my bottling bucket to make sure we could get an accurate temperature reading before going into the carboy. I also used a tip I read on here that if you go through the bottling bucket and let the wort fall into the funnel into the carboy it will help aerate it. We did this and get a nice foamy head on it showing lots of aeration.
The kit came with dry yeast so we rehydrated it in warm water for about 10 minutes, and pitched it when the 5 gallons of wort was at 70 degrees.
I put it in the closet at about 3pm yesterday, this morning on my way to work, at 7:30 am, it had about 2 inches of krausen on it, and the airlock was bubbling away at a few bubbles per second. Looks like soon we will have beer!!! Such a fun hobby.:tank:

Edit: I did forget we had one casualty, I broke the hydrometer before I could even test the original gravity. Luckily the wife was willing to run to the LHBS and buy me a new one, so we did get to test original gravity.
 
If those cans of LME were pre-hopped,putting them in the boil causes some of the hop profile to be boiled away. I always add those at flame out to avoid loosing the bittering hop profile.
 
The LME kit was pre-hopped, but I just wanted to follow the LHBS instructions on this one. Since it was a Nut Brown Ale, not a very hoppy beer, I didn't think it would hurt it. I made sure to only do the 10 minute boil per instructions.
 
10 minutes won't be too bad. But even malty beers have some bittering. Take the English bitter,for example. Idk why they call it a bitter,cause they're dark & malty,the bittering being on the back. Kind of a misnomer to me. Anyway,next time save the pre-hopped LME for flame out. It only needs 162F to pasteurize. The BK is still plenty hot enough at that point to pasteurize it,since it's still around 180F or so.
 
Next time I'm hoping to do partial grain, use plain LME and hop it myself, so I shouldn't have to worry about it, but if I do go with a kit again I will take your advice and wait for flameout. I was just so happy to see those bubbles this morning and not have to wait 2 days for fermentation to kickstart.
 
Nice job. I also add LME very late in the boil to keep from carmalizing and such. Makes for clearer beer.
 
Sounds like you did everything right...everything else being a
Matter of personal preference ... Since this is your first brew, that is, of corse, expected.
I do AG a lot now but I do extract too and PM's when the price is right. Your on your way...
 
A very helpful hint I learned from this forum..... Keep a spray bottle filled with water when you do your boil. As soon as you get a hot break and the foam starts rising in the pot hit it with the spray bottle a few times. Knocks the foam right back down. No boil over.
 
A very helpful hint I learned from this forum..... Keep a spray bottle filled with water when you do your boil. As soon as you get a hot break and the foam starts rising in the pot hit it with the spray bottle a few times. Knocks the foam right back down. No boil over.

That's a good idea, we just took about 2 ounces of water from the tap and poured it in. My friend was worried that it wasn't pre-boiled water but I quickly reminded him it was going into the boiling water, to boil, so it would sanitize just fine. Just that little 2 ounces put the foam right down and it behaved from then on. It was at the very top of the pot though.
 
Did you add your hydrometer casualty to the broken hydrometer list?

Is there a post out there for broken hydrometers? I didn't know of a list.

Searched it out and found the thread, 1 for me, 460 for the community.
 
So fermentation has slowed considerably, last night I was seeing about one bubble every 10-15 seconds. I am not worried though, reading here has taught me to just wait and be patient, beer will happen.

We did come in slightly over on OG, the kit didn't say anything in the instructions or on the can, but online I found this Munton's Nut Brown Ale should have an OG of 1.040 to 1.044, we came in at 1.047. I stirred the wort and top off water for 3-4 minutes and had it go from the bottling bucket to the carboy to help aerate it. I caught a test tube full about halfway through the pour to get the best OG reading. I measured at 70 degrees farenheit. Is it just an anomoly or do you think I still didn't get a good mix? The recipe called for corn sugar but the LHBS hooked us up with 2 lb of amber DME instead, so I don't know if that would change it or not. So the total bill was 4 lbs of pre-hopped LME and 2 lbs amber DME.
 
Indytruks138 said:
So fermentation has slowed considerably, last night I was seeing about one bubble every 10-15 seconds. I am not worried though, reading here has taught me to just wait and be patient, beer will happen.

We did come in slightly over on OG, the kit didn't say anything in the instructions or on the can, but online I found this Munton's Nut Brown Ale should have an OG of 1.040 to 1.044, we came in at 1.047. I stirred the wort and top off water for 3-4 minutes and had it go from the bottling bucket to the carboy to help aerate it. I caught a test tube full about halfway through the pour to get the best OG reading. I measured at 70 degrees farenheit. Is it just an anomoly or do you think I still didn't get a good mix? The recipe called for corn sugar but the LHBS hooked us up with 2 lb of amber DME instead, so I don't know if that would change it or not. So the total bill was 4 lbs of pre-hopped LME and 2 lbs amber DME.

Its my experience that extract recipes always seem to come in
A little higher than the directions. I think that they are looking at the lowest common denominator and I have also noticed that extract is always a little more volume than stated on the package.
I am sure your sample is representative and I'm also sure that it will be more than fine.
With a session beer like that ( I'm saying anything less than ~'1.050 OG) your active fermentation will go pretty quick. Your right on track as far as I can see.
 
Its my experience that extract recipes always seem to come in
A little higher than the directions. I think that they are looking at the lowest common denominator and I have also noticed that extract is always a little more volume than stated on the package.
I am sure your sample is representative and I'm also sure that it will be more than fine.
With a session beer like that ( I'm saying anything less than ~'1.050 OG) your active fermentation will go pretty quick. Your right on track as far as I can see.

Awesome, thanks man. I am still going to give it 12 days before I do my first hydrometer reading, then make sure at 14 it is stable and go ahead and rack to the bottling bucket. I think I've shown decent restraint, I've only checked on the carboy 2-3 times a day, really just to look at it and smile. I can't wait to try it. I think I'll start batch two the same day we bottle so I can have a good stream of beers going.
 
When you get a stable FG,give it another 3-7 days to settle out clear or slightly misty (where you can just see through it,but not clearly). Then bottle,you'll get less yeast dregs in the bottles this way. Another reason why we sat patience will be rewarded.
 

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