Suggestions for controller

[jsguitar]

lent quick disconnect to use dryer vent



hooked up



outside view of laundry room



floor drain (it's a little close to the wall but convenient

 

[jsguitar]

RO unit (put together from some filter housings I already had plus the new RO housing, fittings, and shutoff)



RO bucket (float valve needs replacing) I use this for coffee too



Awesome stir plate thanks to Bigbeavk's generosity



HLT/HERMS coil



Recirculating the mash or possibly vorlaufing, I can't remember

 

[jsguitar]

Filling BK



Hops ready to go (good tip using the cups from a user here that I can't remember now)



FWH. First time trying a nylon bag, just ordered a hop spider from Stainless Brewing.



Preboil boil gravity looks good



Over sparged a bit

 

[jsguitar]

Brief video of precarious beginnings of the boil

http://s1234.beta.photobucket.com/user/jsguitar/media/boilvid-1.mp4.html

 

[jsguitar]

Recirculating through chiller to sanitize
I need to work on my chilling set up



Filling fermenters




Lost siphon! This was a bummer. It was either my hop stopper or a combination of that and a non-airtight dip tube. It had no trouble with water prior to this.



Drained mash tun

 

[jsguitar]

Cleaning last bits of mash after dumping outside



Mash tun all cleaned up



Overall a good brew day. 10 gallons of an American IPA is fermenting away.

I've ordered a 8 5/8" wide hop spider from Stainless Brewing and am looking at improving my chilling equipment/routine now.

 

[burkesw]

Ok. I hope you are ready for this as it becomes a little more complicated. BTW, I totally agree that an indicator light is needed to ensure some additional level of comfort with the system. The lamp will indicate if the switch is powering either element circuit.

The double pole - double throw - center off - switch needs to be changed out to a - Triple Pole - Double Throw - Center Off - switch in order to accommodate the indicator lamp.
Mouser PN 633-S33-RO (click it).
The indicator lamp shown is this one from
grainger.com PN 1XWL6 (click it). {BTW - the lamp is actually Amber in color. If you want a green one it's pn 1XWL4. Red is pn 1XWL1}


Now the new diagram (click on the image for a full scale drawing printable on tabloid paper 11" x 17")



Where else are you going to get a custom diagram.

I really enjoy the mind jumps I go through to come up with the plans.
I sure hope this helps you.

Best regards,
P-J

PJ,

First off thank you so much for all of your advice! This thread has been so helpful in figuring out the set-up I would like to build.

I am planning to use the diagram you made above for my set-up but was wondering if I could use a couple different switches than you listed.

For the 3 way switches, would I be able to substitute this switch instead of the one you listed:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=235

For the 2 way switches (for use with the PID and pumps), would these be safe to substitute as well:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=360

I'm not expert in this field so I appreciate any input

 

[burkesw]

jsguitar,

Thanks for all the pics! The system looks great and I hope to have something similar soon! :rockin:

 

[P-J]

PJ,

First off thank you so much for all of your advice! This thread has been so helpful in figuring out the set-up I would like to build.

I am planning to use the diagram you made above for my set-up but was wondering if I could use a couple different switches than you listed.

For the 3 way switches, would I be able to substitute this switch instead of the one you listed:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=235

For the 2 way switches (for use with the PID and pumps), would these be safe to substitute as well:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=360

I'm not expert in this field so I appreciate any input

You can use the switches you stated - however, the 3 way switch from Auber Instruments comes with 2 N/O modules and you need a total of 6 N/O modules so you would need to also order 4 more N/O modules from them to make the circuit work properly.

P-J

 

[burkesw]

Thanks for the quick response PJ!

So if I order 2 of these N/O switch blocks that will put me on the right track?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=257

 

[P-J]

Thanks for the quick response PJ!

So if I order 2 of these N/O switch blocks that will put me on the right track?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=257

You need to order a total of 4 additional N/O blocks. Each block is only one N/O switch. You need to have 2 in each position for a total of 6 individual blocks. The base unit ships with 2 blocks in place.

From your link "NO/NC Switch Block":

The price is for one switch block.

 

[jsguitar]

PJ,

First off thank you so much for all of your advice! This thread has been so helpful in figuring out the set-up I would like to build.

I am planning to use the diagram you made above for my set-up but was wondering if I could use a couple different switches than you listed.

For the 3 way switches, would I be able to substitute this switch instead of the one you listed:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=235

For the 2 way switches (for use with the PID and pumps), would these be safe to substitute as well:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=360

I'm not expert in this field so I appreciate any input

Hi,

When you say '3 way switches', do you mean the 3PDT element switch?

If so, you can't replace the switch with the one you linked to without the addition of contactors to handle the high amperage. The switch that I use now is rated for the full 30 amps at 240v so contactors aren't needed. If you read the last couple of pages carefully you'll see that I actually swapped out the original switch shown in the diagram for the one I have now.

Hope this helps.

 

[augiedoggy]

PJ,

First off thank you so much for all of your advice! This thread has been so helpful in figuring out the set-up I would like to build.

I am planning to use the diagram you made above for my set-up but was wondering if I could use a couple different switches than you listed.

For the 3 way switches, would I be able to substitute this switch instead of the one you listed:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=235

For the 2 way switches (for use with the PID and pumps), would these be safe to substitute as well:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=360

I'm not expert in this field so I appreciate any input

I used the exact same switches for my build with two relays (only I bought mine direct from china on ebay for $3 a piece vs $6) but as others have stated to will need contactors or relays and the switch actually controls them to switch the real power load. you dont need the big bulky contactors... you can use regular 25A relays like the magnacraft ones on ebay (just search "220v 25a relay" or "220v 30a relay".

 

[P-J]

I used the exact same switches for my build with two relays (only I bought mine direct from china on ebay for $3 a piece vs $6) but as others have stated to will need contactors or relays and the switch actually controls them to switch the real power load. you dont need the big bulky contactors... you can use regular 25A relays like the magnacraft ones on ebay (just search "220v 25a relay" or "220v 30a relay".

Exactly correct. With the use of the Auber Instruments 3 pole center off switch, a relay or contactor is required. The original diagram uses a switch that is rated for 25A. The Auber switch is rated for 10A and cannot carry the load directly for the element.

Thanks for posting your reply. It is much appreciated.

P-J

 

[burkesw]

I used the exact same switches for my build with two relays (only I bought mine direct from china on ebay for $3 a piece vs $6) but as others have stated to will need contactors or relays and the switch actually controls them to switch the real power load. you dont need the big bulky contactors... you can use regular 25A relays like the magnacraft ones on ebay (just search "220v 25a relay" or "220v 30a relay".

Thanks for all of the input from everyone, it's much appreciated!

But I mostly wanted a different style switch than the toggle in the diagram. Not a big deal, just a visual preference for me mostly, but it seems like a lot more work and cost to use the SPDT switch since I will need use contactors along with it. And I doubt it would be able to fit in the same enclosure that jsguitar used, which i really like the size of.

Augie,

But if I do decide to use the SPDT switch, I will need to put 2 contactors between the switch and the elements correct? I tried searching ebay for some contactors but I'm only seeing the big bulky ones. Would you mind sending me a link to one that you used? Just trying to get an idea, and this is unfamiliar territory for me.

Thank you sirs!

 

[BTizo]

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but it was extremely useful.

If I wanted to ditch the two toggle switches for the pumps and instead use these: Illuminated Short Profile 22mm Pushbutton Maintained Switch, would what modifications would I need to the wiring diagram?

Thanks!

 

[The-Wall]

Instead of using a 3PDT switch to acommodate the lamp, why not just use a 2PDT switch and use a 220 volt lamp in parallel with the elements, then you have 2 lamps and you can see which element is firing.