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sts9fan

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So I have decided I just can't make a good IPA. They all suck pretty bad. I have dumped more batches then I have drank. I'm not sure why but I decided to try and make a Citra/coconut IPA.
I used all Maris Otter with a little Carafa for head. Fermented with 1056 with well controlled temp. The ferment did start real slow but I let it sit for a long time after terminal gravity. "Dry nutted" with toasted coconut until I thought the flavor was nice but not overpowering and a lot of Citra. I froze the coconut prior to use.
In the tank I was pretty bullish and it was tasting really nice. Once it was "done" I racked it into a keg and let it chill and carb for a few days. Result? What I think is the most diacetyl I have ever tasted. I mean if you want a nice butterscotch beer then I got you a killer pour. I also found it interesting that the coconut has completely disappeared. I don't think I have ever really made a diacetyl beer before. To be honest I'm not 100% confident in my off flavor palette except for under fermented ****.
Did I just have a **** ton of acetolactate in it? I want to say it was in the tank for 3 weeks. Held at 68F for the last two weeks. Oh well, whats one more dumper?
 
Well... a coconut, citra IPA sounds horrifying to me, but to each their own. You don't mention what went wrong with your other IPA's but I can guess. Not sure on your experience level, but with 5 posts under your belt I'm going to guess fairly new.

I've found beginners have the most trouble nailing down 2 things when it comes to IPA's. Total amount of hops used and yeast health. A diacetyl problem most likely stems from an under pitch. Are you making yeast starters? If you want to make a nice, tasty beer you need to focus on the yeast. Use a pitch rate calculator, learn how to make a starter, make sure you find a way to oxygenate your wort pre-pitch. Once you nail those things you'll see your off flavor issues go away.

Good luck!
 
A few questions - Carafa for head? maybe carapils?

What was OG? 1056 going slow and throwing diacetyl suggests to me that you either had a big beer or you had an old package or unhealthy yeast. I have never even come close to diacetyl with 1056. What was your rest temperature? How old was the package when you used it? Did it swell properly before using?
 
Have you tried any "proven" IPA recipes? Sounds like you are trying to make all sorts of new recipes and run before you can walk. Trying some proven things will help you understand what specific hop combinations bring to a beer and how they affect the end product.

If you want a simple grain bill you can use Maris, Golden Promise, Pils or Two row as your only grain. The high level of hopping will give you plenty of head retention. But I would stay away from roasted grains or crystal grains until you figure some things out.

Also, pay at least a little attention to your water. Don't need to get carried away but a basic balanced build from RO would be worth it.

Summary:
1. Use RO water with minor mineral additions to safe levels
2. Use very basic grain bill w/ base malt only (~1.064 OG, ~1.010 FG)
3. Follow hop schedule of nice, popular, highly rated single IPA
4. Ferment with 001/1056 at 66ºF (approx 1 week to FG with healthy yeast pitch)
5. Dry hop with moderate amounts following previously referenced hop schedule (Approx 5 days)
6. Keg, Cold Condition and Carbonate for 10 days at ~40ºF and ~10psi.
 
Since you say all your IPA's suck, what are you using for water? If using tap water without any water salt additions, it could be that your water is not suited for the style. For example, my town water is high in chloride but low in sulfate...good for a New England IPA maybe, but horrible for any other IPA's where you want sulfate to chloride ratio to be at least 2:1 if not even higher.
 
If somebody told me they made an anchovy and almond butter sandwich that didn't taste good, I would not be the least bit surprised. Likewise for a "citra coconut" beer.

If you've had a string of bad results, the best thing you can do is go "back to basics" and eliminate possible causes of your woes.

I'd either find a positively-reviewed recipe online and brew it exactly as written, or do something really simple like 100% 2-row, about 25-30 IBU from a 60min hop addition, and then go with 4-5oz of late hop additions (some combo of 5min, whirlpool, dry hop) using a forgiving and proven strain (Citra, Cascade, Centennial, etc.) No coconut. No berries. No dougnut sprinkles.

The best IPAs out there are well-honed "next level" works of art, but I don't care what anyone says, it really is not difficult to make a half decent IPA at home. Good to fair brewing process, simple grain bill, throw lots of appropriate strain hops in (most of them late), and boom -- you've got at least a sketch of a decent IPA. The strong aromas and flavors of the hops are able to gloss over lots of flaws that would otherwise be noticeable.
 
Ok, not really new just never made many IPA. Not really looking for flavor profile criticism and I am pretty sure I would dislike some things you like. I did not invent coconut IPA. I can name a few commercial examples that I liked very much.

Seems like I must have under pitched. I was just expecting things to get cleaned up with extended time on the yeast. Thanks for the input.
 
Brewing for 5 gallons you could use 10-12 lbs of 2 row, 1/2 lb of crystal 40 and if you want 1/2-1 lb of wheat, use a nice dose of magnum at 60min then hop burst at 10,5 and flame out with the aroma hop or hops of your choice

that should get you a good starting point, i hate to suggest only 2 row malt until you get a feel for your water profile and mash ph, the crystal 40 will help bring your ph down if you have high alkalinity tap water
 
Rule of thumb I follow from the head brewer at stone in regards to home brewing; his article said to not use more then 5% caramel/crystal and add Munich. I have brewed lots of IPAs all drinkable but some just didn't hit the mark I was going for. I just designed and brewed a single hop IPA using warrior hops. My base grain is 8.8lbs of 2 row. Now depending on which way you want to go I use Munich malt and caramel/crystal 10. When it comes to the crystal I use the lowest 10L. Before I was using 30L. I did toss some oats for mouth feel. Are you using software to make your recipes? How are you designing them?
 
So I have decided I just can't make a good IPA. They all suck pretty bad. I have dumped more batches then I have drank. I'm not sure why but I decided to try and make a Citra/coconut IPA.
I used all Maris Otter with a little Carafa for head. Fermented with 1056 with well controlled temp. The ferment did start real slow but I let it sit for a long time after terminal gravity. "Dry nutted" with toasted coconut until I thought the flavor was nice but not overpowering and a lot of Citra. I froze the coconut prior to use.
In the tank I was pretty bullish and it was tasting really nice. Once it was "done" I racked it into a keg and let it chill and carb for a few days. Result? What I think is the most diacetyl I have ever tasted. I mean if you want a nice butterscotch beer then I got you a killer pour. I also found it interesting that the coconut has completely disappeared. I don't think I have ever really made a diacetyl beer before. To be honest I'm not 100% confident in my off flavor palette except for under fermented ****.
Did I just have a **** ton of acetolactate in it? I want to say it was in the tank for 3 weeks. Held at 68F for the last two weeks. Oh well, whats one more dumper?

Hey man I feel the same way you do! I have had a hell of a time getting a good tasting IPA. Normally my fermentation is slow as well. I use bottled spring water and do not add anything to it, so it is possible that plays a roll in it, but my gut tells me its all about yeast health and abundance. I just brewed a Russian River Blind Pig Clone yesterday and noticed the fermentation started within 5 hours of pitching! Im hoping this one turns out better than my other attempts at IPAs
 
My first few batches were IPAs and they turned out really good. I use RO water, make a yeast starter with fresh yeast and a stir plate, use an aeration stone and O2 or shake your fermentation bucket like it owes you money.

Find a simple standard issue recipe and follow it to a "T" and of course make sure everything is clean and sanitized.

I haven't been brewing that long but take my word for it if I can do it you can do it. I'm a big believer in going back to basics too. Don't do anything fancy. The simpler the better for diagnosing what may go wrong. Good luck and no matter what have fun.
 
You need some calcium for optimum yeast performance. Caso4 and CaCl. You can split it or favor one of the other. I know everybody loves lots of CaCl now but I hate it personally. You will lose a bunch in the mash so adding some extra in the kettle is a good ideas as well.

If using RO a little yeast nutrient is advisable as well for zinc which yeast needs.

A little tip if using 1056/001/US-05 and lots of 2 row. Modern 2 row has too much FAN. Excess FAN causes PH to rise at the end of fermentation. Optimum Diacetyl reduction occurs below 4.4 PH. 1056 tends to not drop PH as much and if you’re adding piles of hops during latter stages of the boil and during fermentation you won’t get PH to drop enough to properly uptake diacetyl. Ideally you need a PH meter but adding some lactic acid at the end of the boil to help PH get into range will help a ton.

You should raise temp on 1056 as fermentation winds down.. 66 is great but raising to 72 towards end will help diacetyl uptake.

Also your coconut addition might have restarted some fermentation which can cause production of diacetyl. This happens with dry hops all the time. You either need to test and make sure there is no Diacetyl before crashing. Or do you additions at colder temps.
 
diacetyl is the WORST in ipa. i was having diacetyl problems in IPA. I am pretty sure now that the problem was in cold crashing the ipa before racking. if any air gets in during the cold crash, you can get diacetyl. my partial solution was to switch to corny keg fermentation and closed transfers for ipas or rack the ipa warm to the keg.
 

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