Sub Panel Make Sense?

[jdr01]

My hosehead fried. I picked up Blichman Brewcommand (mash) and Power Controller (boil).
Blichman's require double pole GFCI 30 amps. each.
Hosehead had one 50 amp GFCI.
I did run a batch running both B's off the one 50 amp breaker with no issue.
I am getting close to the questions now. To give myself the option of brewing in different locations I plan to...
Make a sub panel containing two 30 amp double pole GFCI breakers. This cold be plugged into a 50 amp dryer outlet.
Is this a good option?
Thanks

 

[IslandLizard]

Yes, as long as the combined amperage of the 2 Blichmann controllers doesn't exceed 50A.

Is that 50A dryer outlet wired properly? Most non-commercial dryer connections are 30A circuits.

I wonder if you could just use the old Hosehead 50A GFCI and plug both Blichmanns into that. 2 30A sockets, 1 50A GFCI circuit. Sounds simpler and much cheaper since you have the 50A GFCI already.

 

[jdr01]

Yup. So I don't need a 30 amp.breaker for each? Makes things simpler here. Already have Square D 30 amp breakers that won't work at the other house unless I use a sub panel.
Maybe thats the way to go.

 

[IslandLizard]

Yup. So I don't need a 30 amp.breaker for each? Makes things simpler here. Already have Square D 30 amp breakers that won't work at the other house unless I use a sub panel.
Maybe thats the way to go.

The breaker(s) protect your wiring. The GFCI protects you.

The only difference between the 2 approaches is, if one of the Blichmann's cuts out, both go down when on the same breaker. As a matter of fact it's safer that way, as something is wrong.

Call me old fashioned, my age explains that, but in wet environments I still like to rely on a direct galvanic connection to ground in addition to a GFCI.

 

[jdr01]

So it is safer with one 50 amp than two 30 amp GFCI's?
I am lost with direct galvanic. I could easily ground my stainless table to the panel if that would do it.

 

[IslandLizard]

So it is safer with one 50 amp than two 30 amp GFCI's?

I'd say so, as it disengages the whole electric system from your setup when it detects a current leak from either connection. 2 separate breakers can be tied for the same effect. One goes down so does the other.

I am lost with direct galvanic. I could easily ground my stainless table to the panel if that would do it.

Yeah, "galvanic" means a direct connection using a metal conductor. In this case directly to ground.
Any metal connected to ground will be at ground potential. That's very important!

Usually the ground connection is supplied through the connecting cord and outlet.
I was referring to a separate connection to ground. Such as your metal table. Even the kettles themselves if there are any insulators between the table and kettles.

 

[jdr01]

Thanks for all the good information. I have a plan and most of the materials now. Just have to get to it.

 

[IslandLizard]

I was referring to a separate connection to ground. Such as your metal table. Even the kettles themselves if there are any insulators between the table and kettles.

Let me rephrase that:
I was referring to a dedicated, separate connection to ground, not just relying on the ground connection provided through the plug. Especially for your metal table. Even add that direct ground connection to the kettles themselves if there are any insulators between the table and kettles.

 

[jdr01]

Yes. I understood that part. Thanks. Figured I would just run a wire with clamps from the table and kettles to ground.

 

[IslandLizard]

Yes. I understood that part. Thanks. Figured I would just run a wire with clamps from the table and kettles to ground.

Now we're on the same page.
Ground being a (copper) cold water line that goes into the ground. Or a ground rod.