Stop sparging at 1.010, temp corrected or not?

[BeerG0ggles]

Greetings,

My local supply store gave me some all grain instructions. These indicate to measure gravity while sparging and to stop once the gravity hits 1.010 (or some such). Continuing to spare past this level will leach tannins. If you come up short on boil volume, make up he difference in clean water. So far this has not been an issue. With my slow spare I can usually get 5 gal in the kettle easy enough. I figure the extra water that I add for boil off is a wash and the results have been fine. I have wondered, is this common advice? And if so, is that 1.010 corrected for temperature? Correcting for temp I am no where near the limit when I stop. I can see the ease of giving a working value and a few degrees won't make a big difference. Bug correcting back to 70 sure does

Thoughts?

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using HB Talk

 

[Suthrncomfrt1884]

Yes...it should be temp corrected.

 

[bottlebomber]

You'd have to be doing a pretty puny beer to get that low though. The lowest I thing I've gotten was about 1.015, and I took 8 gallons of preboil out of a grain bill for a 5 gallon 1.045 stout.

 

[BeerG0ggles]

@Suthrncomfrt1884
Thanks for the confirmation. (For anyone) Are all gravity readings always considered to a 60 degree standard? I have Googeled the subject and all that ever seems to be mentioned are gravity readings. A reference is never provided, which leads me to believe that it is accepted that such values are always standardized values and not 'working' values. I can see working values being more convenient if things are happeneing fast, but pre-calculated stanard values would keep the artillery shells from landing on your head. Oscar Sierra!

@bottlebomber
Hey! I resemble that remark! Puny beers are what I am all about ಠ_ಠ
Seriously, from what you all are saying I am well away from tannins as I am stopping at an adjusted 1.032 grav (1.012 at 152F) which means my full boil can easily max out with late runnings.

Cheers

 

[worstbrewing]

I don't really know but would assume all are based on the same temp. However I got a refractometer and have greatly reduced the trouble, worth a shot

 

[Suthrncomfrt1884]

@Suthrncomfrt1884
Are all gravity readings always considered to a 60 degree standard?

If you're using a hydrometer, then actually, 59 degrees is your calibration mark. This is the same for all hydrometers. If you're using a refractometer, then you shouldn't need to adjust aside from converting from brix to gravity.

Take a look at this for a good chart.... http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixA.html

 

[RM-MN]

Your local supply store gave you some incorrect information. The gravity of the wort isn't the determining factor in leaching tannins as was once thought. Tannins can only be leached if 2 (TWO) conditions are met. The pH has to rise and the water has to exceed 170. If these two do not happen at the same time, no tannins will be leached.

 

[Yooper]

Your local supply store gave you some incorrect information. The gravity of the wort isn't the determining factor in leaching tannins as was once thought. Tannins can only be leached if 2 (TWO) conditions are met. The pH has to rise and the water has to exceed 170. If these two do not happen at the same time, no tannins will be leached.

Well, it's not temperature dependent. It's pH dependent (you can boil grains, ie a decoction with no problem). BUT if your runnings fall under 1.010, your pH is probably too high. That's why you're supposed to stop sparging at 1.010.

 

[wildwest450]

Tannins can only be leached if 2 (TWO) conditions are met. The pH has to rise and the water has to exceed 170. If these two do not happen at the same time, no tannins will be leached.

If that were the case, decoctions would be impossible.



_

 

[RM-MN]

If that were the case, decoctions would be impossible.



_

Nope. You have to meet both conditions at the same time. If your mash is acidic you cannot extract tannins by boiliing. If your mash has become alkaline but you sparge with cooler water you cannot extract tannins.

 

[944play]

Batch/no sparge FTMFW. No way I'm waiting around for a lauter to feebly trickle out while painstakingly taking gravities every few minutes just to squeeze a scant few extra ounces of extract out of my homebrew mash.

 

[jtupper]

I agree. I do a double batch sparge with 168° water and have no problems getting 82-86 eff and no tanin problems ever noticed. With today's grains and proceses why do so many people still fly? Is it a purist thing?

 

[Yooper]

I agree. I do a double batch sparge with 168° water and have no problems getting 82-86 eff and no tanin problems ever noticed. With today's grains and proceses why do so many people still fly? Is it a purist thing?

No, I don't think it's a "purist" thing. I think it's simply that some systems are set up for a continuous sparge. It's not about the efficiency "points", but the way your system works.

 

[scottland]

With a recirculating mash system, it's just easier to fly sparge. After you've recirculated the entire length of the mash, you just turn off the pump(s), switch a couple hoses, turn the pump(s) back on, and BAM -- you're fly sparging. No dumping, no stirring, no vorlaufing.

That's probably the big reason you still see people fly sparge -- it's just easier on a recirculating mash system. Before I built my current system, I batch sparged. The beer has been no better or worse since the change, just a matter of convenience either way.

 

[jtupper]

I am new at the rims thing but I do have that setup with a picnic cooler copper manifold setup. I still batch sparge. While the rest is finishing up I strike my sparge water. Dump fill and run the system again with no problems. Is there any reason I should switch to fly. It just seems a much longer road to the same destination.

 

[BeerG0ggles]

why do so many people still fly? Is it a purist thing?

I am not an authority or purist (obviously), but I find that it easily fits into my work flow and my equipment. It is also kinda fun, I guess. Generally on brew day I have a bunch of things going on AS WELL AS kids and family running around my feet. So it is no big deal to set up the sparge water and mash out water and do that stuff while doing <insert many other things here>. So, I do it because it gives me good beer and I like to

@RM-MN - I won't doubt your advice and insight. However, I seem to recall reading at the link that Suthrncomfrt1884 provided (or elsewhere? can't recall) that the 1.010 number is an average number due to the fact the shallow grains are hit by a lot of water and "clean out" before the deeper grains. By the time you hit 1.010 it is assumes that the tannins from the surficial grains may reach a level to be a factor even though the deeper grains are still viable. Anyway, Googling around it seems to be a fairly common practice to stop sparging at 1.010 (+/-). So the home brew supply store is probably quoting conservative possibly outdated advice that, none-the-less, provides for good brew practices and results. Regardless and as always, I appreciate insights such as yours to learn from and fold into my maddness.

Cheers