Still alive - just tackling a HUGE DIY

[Jester369]

Are you using plywood for the base frame? Interesting idea to keep things square and flat, if so.

Yes, pretty much everything will be plywood with the exception of a few odds and ends. What you seen in these photos is all baltic birch ply - it has no voids and is 100% hardwood (no fillers) so it makes excellent cabinet carcasses. Any exposed parts will either be covered in cherry ply, veneer, or edgbanded. I'm doing very simple, flat doors and drawers so they will be edgbanded cherry ply as well. When it's all done, it will look like solid cherry cabinets, but they will be super strong and stable.

 

[Jester369]

And today's progress...

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

It's coming together, what are you using for fasteners on the carcass?

 

[Jester369]

It's coming together, what are you using for fasteners on the carcass?

Pocket screws - fast, easy, very strong!

 

[Jester369]

I was looking at that picture again and zoomed in - just wanted to add that the individual cabinet components have not been attached to each other or the base yet - I just plopped them on the base to see what it looks like all together. The picture show lots of little gaps and misalignments that will (hopefully!) disappear when it's fully assembled

 

[Thirteen]

Pocket screws - fast, easy, very strong!

Yeah, I didn't think I'd use them all that often. Felt like cheating or a low quality build, whatever. After my first build with the Kreg jig I found myself reaching for it damn near all the time.

 

[Jester369]

Yeah, I didn't think I'd use them all that often. Felt like cheating or a low quality build, whatever. After my first build with the Kreg jig I found myself reaching for it damn near all the time.

Exactly! It felt like taking a shortcut the first time I used them, but I got over that when projects just seemed to jump together!

 

[Jaybird]

AMAZING! So how long have you been working on this project Jester? Are you still as thrilled with the project as you were when it started? The builds are very nice man! Keep it up!

Cheers
Jay

 

[Homercidal]

AMAZING! So how long have you been working on this project Jester? Are you still as thrilled with the project as you were when it started? The builds are very nice man! Keep it up!

Cheers
Jay

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=378626

 

[Jaybird]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=378626

Well I know Jester started the thread in 1-13 but I was just curious how long he had been actually building.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jester369]

Well I know Jester started the thread in 1-13 but I was just curious how long he had been actually building.

Cheers
Jay

I broke ground June of 2012, so I just passed the 3 1/2 year mark. As for my enthusiasm for the project, it comes and goes at this point. It's been such a long haul that it is hard to maintain intensity, but it's still moving forward.

 

[Doed]

I broke ground June of 2012, so I just passed the 3 1/2 year mark. As for my enthusiasm for the project, it comes and goes at this point. It's been such a long haul that it is hard to maintain intensity, but it's still moving forward.

It took me 4 years to finish my basement so keep your head up and keep plowing forward. You are doing an excellent job.

I completely get your enthusiasm statement. I got to the point, at times, where I just wanted to do something, anything, else.

 

[The_Dog_42]

Yes, pretty much everything will be plywood with the exception of a few odds and ends. What you seen in these photos is all baltic birch ply - it has no voids and is 100% hardwood (no fillers) so it makes excellent cabinet carcasses. Any exposed parts will either be covered in cherry ply, veneer, or edgbanded. I'm doing very simple, flat doors and drawers so they will be edgbanded cherry ply as well. When it's all done, it will look like solid cherry cabinets, but they will be super strong and stable.

Awesome idea. I may have to steal it. Buddy wants me to build a portable kitchen island and this would make life far easier.

 

[Jester369]

keep your head up and keep plowing forward.

Thanks, I appreciate that

 

[Jester369]

I haven't finished the island yet, but I am jumping ahead to some of the base cabinetry for the rest of the kitchen just for the sake of getting some substantial progress (and attitude lift ). This will be the section I'm tackling next:

That's a toe kick drawer to the left, for large baking sheets. There will be another one like it in one of the other sections, too. They are handy to have and only a minor pain in the ass to make.

Once this section is done, I'll go back and finish up the island construction. There are some cylindrical elements to it that I'm avoiding for the moment.

Here is the full layout that I'm working towards:

 

[Huaco]

Are those toe board drawers going to be held closed with a magnetic spring-loaded latch? Push in with toe and it releases.

 

[Jester369]

Are those toe board drawers going to be held closed with a magnetic spring-loaded latch?

I'm actually thinking about going one better - using Blum servo drives on those toe kick cabinets. Tap with your toe, and it fully extends.

 

[Renegades_Brew]

Well I know what I am having installed when I redo my kitchen in the next house!

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

I'm actually thinking about going one better - using Blum servo drives on those toe kick cabinets. Tap with your toe, and it fully extends.

I'd plan on a hand hole (like a drill press sacrificial insert) for access to each for future service/replace. Would suck having to reach all the way to the back in the space of a toe kick.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

There are some cylindrical elements to it that I'm avoiding for the moment.

Here is the full layout that I'm working towards:

Don't see anything too crazy. Why the procrastination/anxiety?

 

[rmarshall100]

Is the marble tile quarried from Vermont? That would be a cool touch.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

That's a toe kick drawer to the left, for large baking sheets. There will be another one like it in one of the other sections, too. They are handy to have and only a minor pain in the ass to make.

Kids or under-tall people in the house? Make the one under the sink cabinet a step stool instead. I have done both a pop-up (total height extended 6") and a supper-thin 2- step stool just stored in a no-bottom drawer.

 

[Jester369]

I'd plan on a hand hole (like a drill press sacrificial insert) for access to each for future service/replace. Would suck having to reach all the way to the back in the space of a toe kick.

Excellent concern that I had not considered!

 

[Jester369]

Is the marble tile quarried from Vermont? That would be a cool touch.

It's not real marble - it's porcelain tile. Marble is a real pain in the ass because of porosity (and cost). This stuff was relatively inexpensive, but it looks like marble, and the satin finish even feels like marble.

 

[Jester369]

Don't see anything too crazy. Why the procrastination/anxiety?

Here's a view looking up from below - those curved elements still have to be fabricated, and there is a lot of fussy work involved in getting them just right. Add to that doing the veneer work to cover those curves, and it's a bit daunting. Not that it'll stop me, of course

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

Here's a view looking up from below - those curved elements still have to be fabricated, and there is a lot of fussy work involved in getting them just right. Add to that doing the veneer work to cover those curves, and it's a bit daunting. Not that it'll stop me, of course

The counter top radii look easy enough to form with a ply top, middle, and bottoms (spaced apart) and edge wrap with 2 ply of 1/4" for a veneer base.

What is the bottom column diameter? And length?

If I were to guess, 3"? And a length of about 36"?

If yes, Woodcraft stocks solid ash billets for turning bats. 2 7/8" diameter by 37" long. A quick jig and a couple passes on a table saw to notch into place.

 

[Jester369]

Well, I already have a plan of attack, just need to get it knocked out. I fabricated my own blanks by gluing up MDF:

4" Diameter, will be cut to length after turning

8" Diameter, already the 3 1/2" thickness required, and yes, I will pop it on the bandsaw and remove most of the extra material before turning it

They will be turned on a homemade lathe router

Here is a cool YouTube on the process: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUA3lryix64[/ame]



I'm sure once it's done it won't seem like it was that big a deal

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

I'm sure once it's done it won't seem like it was that big a deal

Ha. Was going to ask if you had a lathe. And was going to offer to turn stock if needed. You pay shipping both ways.

How is that Dewalt track saw treating you?

I am torn between it and the Makita.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

Ha. Was going to ask if you had a lathe. And was going to offer to turn stock if needed. You pay shipping both ways.

How is that Dewalt track saw treating you?

I am torn between it and the Makita.

What, no Festool at twice (or more) the price?

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

What, no Festool at twice (or more) the price?

Festool makes amazing tools. That I will not deny.

But I am merely a hobbyist sawdust collector. Should I have a show, or a stable income from said work I'd likely pimp the green eye candy. I'd love to have a domino. Those things are like tits.

For what I do, I am perfectly content with well researched HF models.

 

[Jester369]

Ha. Was going to ask if you had a lathe. And was going to offer to turn stock if needed. You pay shipping both ways.

How is that Dewalt track saw treating you?

I am torn between it and the Makita.

That's a kind offer! I'll give it a shot here, first and see how it goes

The saw is great, although I think the track could be a little better - the zero clearance edge can get mucked up and it gets harder to know exactly where the blade is going to cut. It's a replaceable part, but seems to me it should be harder to damage the edge. I've been using it for large sheet breakdown, so it's not super critical for what I'm doing - everything gets final cuts on the tablesaw - but if you wanted to do precise cuts you really need to watch that edge for damage and wear.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

For what I do, I am perfectly content with well researched HF models.

Oh, me as well. I was being very tongue in cheek. When I still had serious space limitations and lost my wonderful shop that would break down sheet goods on their CNC router for pennies (I still miss them), I researched the track saws a lot. In the end I made do with piece of machinist angle and clamps.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

That's a kind offer! I'll give it a shot here, first and see how it goes

The saw is great, although I think the track could be a little better - the zero clearance edge can get mucked up and it gets harder to know exactly where the blade is going to cut. It's a replaceable part, but seems to me it should be harder to damage the edge. I've been using it for large sheet breakdown, so it's not super critical for what I'm doing - everything gets final cuts on the tablesaw - but if you wanted to do precise cuts you really need to watch that edge for damage and wear.

Most everything I turn to dust comes from a sheet good. I have no desire to have a table saw fixture large enough for that task nor do I have any desire for the inherent permanence of it's location.

Oh, me as well. I was being very tongue in cheek. When I still had serious space limitations and lost my wonderful shop that would break down sheet goods on their CNC router for pennies (I still miss them), I researched the track saws a lot. In the end I made do with piece of machinist angle and clamps.

I've gotten by with a home made hardboard jig. Got fed up with it breaking down 50 sheets of ply for cabinet panels and started looking into track saws.

 

[Terek]

Well, I already have a plan of attack, just need to get it knocked out. I fabricated my own blanks by gluing up MDF:

4" Diameter, will be cut to length after turning

8" Diameter, already the 3 1/2" thickness required, and yes, I will pop it on the bandsaw and remove most of the extra material before turning it

They will be turned on a homemade lathe router

Here is a cool YouTube on the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUA3lryix64



I'm sure once it's done it won't seem like it was that big a deal

pretty impressive making a router into a lathe. I do extensive lathe work, mostly custom duck and goose calls. They can be pretty scary, especially when you get to using bigger ones. 4 foot +

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

pretty impressive making a router into a lathe. I do extensive lathe work, mostly custom duck and goose calls. They can be pretty scary, especially when you get to using bigger ones. 4 foot +

Ever looked at woodgears.ca?

Guy is insane with his wooden machinery.

 

[Terek]

Ever looked at woodgears.ca?

Guy is insane with his wooden machinery.

wow......i foresee loosing myself in this website for long periods of time. The air powered engine is pretty amazing

 

[Jester369]

I'd plan on a hand hole (like a drill press sacrificial insert) for access to each for future service/replace. Would suck having to reach all the way to the back in the space of a toe kick.

I think I came up with a pretty simple solution to this problem: I'm going to mount the drawer slides to boards that slide into a receiving slot in the cabinet base. Since the drawer moves by itself, it doesn't need to be even a snug fit - loose fit should work fine. That way if it ever fails, you just grab the drawer front and pull, and the whole mechanism slides right out for servicing along with the drawer.

For clarity, the light colored wood is the permanent base material, the darker wood is where the grey colored drawer slide is attached. Left picture, fully inserted, right one partially.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

I think I came up with a pretty simple solution to this problem: I'm going to mount the drawer slides to boards that slide into a receiving slot in the cabinet base. Since the drawer moves by itself, it doesn't need to be even a snug fit - loose fit should work fine. That way if it ever fails, you just grab the drawer front and pull, and the whole mechanism slides right out for servicing along with the drawer.

For clarity, the light colored wood is the permanent base material, the darker wood is where the grey colored drawer slide is attached. Left picture, fully inserted, right one partially.

Not sure I follow. If I remember correctly the servos are cabinet back mounted and comprised of armatures that attach to the drawer back to extend or retract the attached drawer. Access to the servos specifically is what I was considering. However, slides are prone to failures too and this would make maintenance easier.

 

[Jester369]

Well, this is what I get when I make assumptions! I figured Blum just automated their existing drawer hardware (which I researched a fair amount). Of course, just a brief glance at their automated stuff just now showed me how wrong I was! Ah well, it was an idea, if not a great (or even possible) one.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

Well, this is what I get when I make assumptions! I figured Blum just automated their existing drawer hardware (which I researched a fair amount). Of course, just a brief glance at their automated stuff just now showed me how wrong I was! Ah well, it was an idea, if not a great (or even possible) one.

OIC. I still think it's a good idea. That is, with discussed considerations.