Sticky CO2 regulator gauge?

[HopsAreGood]

I would say 90% of the time that I turn the dial on my CO2 regulator, the little bar in the gauge goes up very smoothly. But every so often when I turn it up it’ll be kind of sticky. I’ll turn the dial and I’ll hear the CO2 coming in, but then it will jump from say 8 to 14 and then stick, and then it might jump from something like 14 to 20 etc. ... It’s been like this for as long as I can remember and hasn’t really impacted anything in any big way other than being a minor annoyance, but I figured I’d ask to see why this may be happening. Thanks in advance.

 

[Golddiggie]

Did you get the regulator brand new or was it used? Brand would help too. I've not had this issue with my Taprite regulators.

Worst case you could always just replace the sticky gauge.

 

[HopsAreGood]

Did you get the regulator brand new or was it used? Brand would help too. I've not had this issue with my Taprite regulators.

Worst case you could always just replace the sticky gauge.

Yup, I bought it new but it was about five or six years ago at this point. The weird thing about it is that it almost always works very smoothly and the way it supposed to, but then every so often it gets really sticky like I said. Not sure of the brand but it’s not a taprite. It’s a single regulator but it’s split for two kegs. Currently burst carbing a keg for 24 hours at about 28 psi, which is why I just posted this thread. It was extremely “sticky” getting up to what you’re looking at.

 

[Golddiggie]

I'd just get a quality low pressure gauge and swap it out as soon as possible. Use plenty of Teflon/pipe tape on it and you'll be good to go.
All my CO2 regulators, that go on tanks, are Taprite. I got one used and the dual body new. I also have manifolds inside the keezer (gas supply is outside) to split off to kegs as needed.
Maybe move the CO2 to outside the keezer so that it's at room temp. That might be enough to make it work properly. It will also give you more room in the keezer for BEER.
For carbonating, last few batches I've been using the carbonating lid to get it done faster than ~2 weeks. Done in 2-4 days (more than two is when I just leave it connected/on for longer). You don't need to worry about stabilizing the keg pressure post burst carbonating either. So ready to actually pour when you remove that lid. Sure, it's not cheap ($60) but it works pissah.

 

[HopsAreGood]

I'd just get a quality low pressure gauge and swap it out as soon as possible. Use plenty of Teflon/pipe tape on it and you'll be good to go.
All my CO2 regulators, that go on tanks, are Taprite. I got one used and the dual body new. I also have manifolds inside the keezer (gas supply is outside) to split off to kegs as needed.
Maybe move the CO2 to outside the keezer so that it's at room temp. That might be enough to make it work properly. It will also give you more room in the keezer for BEER.
For carbonating, last few batches I've been using the carbonating lid to get it done faster than ~2 weeks. Done in 2-4 days (more than two is when I just leave it connected/on for longer). You don't need to worry about stabilizing the keg pressure post burst carbonating either. So ready to actually pour when you remove that lid. Sure, it's not cheap ($60) but it works pissah.

The only thing I don’t like about those lids that you have to remove them and expose the beer to oxygen. I primarily make super hoppy IIPAs and will do everything in my power to avoid exposing them to the tiniest bit of O2. I think I may just upgrade to a nice taprite set up and be done with it. Thank you.

I usually just get the beer in the keg to the temperature that I want, and then set the PSI to 12 and roll it around on the floor for about 20 minutes. It’s fully carbonated by that time with no chance of over carbonating. Sometimes I’ll do this burst carb but I’ll give it 25 to 30 PSI for the first 24 hours, and then remove the hose and let it come down to about 12 psi which is where I serve it. I don’t like giving it a massive purge because a lot of those aromatics come out with it. With this method it’s usually good in about 3 to 4 days. Lots of different ways to skin a cat.

 

[Golddiggie]

Starting with my next batch, I'll be fully carbonating in fermenter.

For the lid, I purge with CO2 before and after changing it. So not really any more risk than anything else. I've only used the lid on a few batches, since I recently bought a pair of conicals. So maybe about 10 kegs carbonated (normal keg size for me is 3 gallons, but I also use a 6 gallon keg at times).

I do English IPAs, so no face implosion hop/IBU levels. Tons of flavor and aroma though.

 

[T Murph]

The only thing I don’t like about those lids that you have to remove them and expose the beer to oxygen. I primarily make super hoppy IIPAs and will do everything in my power to avoid exposing them to the tiniest bit of O2. I think I may just upgrade to a nice taprite set up and be done with it. Thank you.

I usually just get the beer in the keg to the temperature that I want, and then set the PSI to 12 and roll it around on the floor for about 20 minutes. It’s fully carbonated by that time with no chance of over carbonating. Sometimes I’ll do this burst carb but I’ll give it 25 to 30 PSI for the first 24 hours, and then remove the hose and let it come down to about 12 psi which is where I serve it. I don’t like giving it a massive purge because a lot of those aromatics come out with it. With this method it’s usually good in about 3 to 4 days. Lots of different ways to skin a cat.

I'd replace the gauge first. I have replaced several over the years. Gauges are sensitive, simple devices that can be affected by temperature, moisture and other things that interfere with the smooth motion of the needle inside the gauge. Gauges are cheep compared to replacing the entire regulator. Just be aware that Tap rite uses left hand threaded components so you must specify thread orientation when ordering. Most all other regulators use right hand thread. Good luck, hope this helps you solve your issue.

 

[day_trippr]

Taprite uses 1/4" left hand threads on high pressure ports, and 1/4" right hand threads on low pressure ports.
That's a low pressure gauge, so RHT...

Cheers!