Stc-1000+

[alphaomega]

I recently purchase a ITC-1000 for $15.00 on ebay it appears to be identical please see the attached pictures. Let me know if you think the firmware could be loaded on this controller.

Well, @StPug is right, that is a totally different board and MCU. So, not STC-1000+ compatible. Sorry.

 

[banesong]

Also make sure you aren't looking at the secondary probe readout, even with it not turned on you can see a value, and it won't match the primary temp sensor, I've seen this cause confusion before. Pushing the power button will cycle between temp sensor 1 and 2

Okay - foolish question:

Is there any way to tell from the readout if it is the first or second temp probe? If no probe is attached, what should it be reading?

 

[banesong]

Also make sure you aren't looking at the secondary probe readout, even with it not turned on you can see a value, and it won't match the primary temp sensor, I've seen this cause confusion before. Pushing the power button will cycle between temp sensor 1 and 2

Okay - foolish question:

Is there any way to tell from the readout if it is the first or second temp probe? If no probe is attached, what should it be reading?

Maybe answering myself, but... One dot on the top right is first temp probe, two dots (one right, one center) is the second?

Still uncertain as to what the second probe should read if it is not connected.

 

[smithabusa]

Maybe answering myself, but... One dot on the top right is first temp probe, two dots (one right, one center) is the second?

Still uncertain as to what the second probe should read if it is not connected.

you are correct, it will float around when nothing connected

 

[banesong]

you are correct, it will float around when nothing connected

Okay, thanks! It is holding on or around 34 now.

 

[adam01]

Where is the post on logging temps off the STC-1000 temp inputs ?

 

[stpug]

Where is the post on logging temps off the STC-1000 temp inputs ?

In or around this post: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f258/stc-1000-a-464348/index123.html#post6401626

 

[augiedoggy]

damn! I just checked all my stc 1000 units and they are the version 1.1 not 1.0

 

[stpug]

damn! I just checked all my stc 1000 units and they are the version 1.1 not 1.0

Version 1.1 are good for the STC-1000+ firmware!!

 

[augiedoggy]

Version 1.1 are good for the STC-1000+ firmware!!

awesome! since when? I could have sworn only the version 1.0 was flashable? any idea where I could find the jtag wiring setup?

 

[stpug]

awesome! since when? I could have sworn only the version 1.0 was flashable? any idea where I could find the jtag wiring setup?

(eating crow while typing) I'm sorry but I think I'm wrong about v1.1 being supported. I could have sworn I had read that it was but everything I can find now indicates that it's not.

 

[stpug]

@augiedoggy
Okay, well I found what I had recalled here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f258/stc-1000-a-464348/index149.html#post6539297

In the picture you can definitely see it says it's v1.1 and has the obvious 5 pin location. Is this what yours looks like?

 

[augiedoggy]

@augiedoggy
Okay, well I found what I had recalled here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f258/stc-1000-a-464348/index149.html#post6539297

In the picture you can definitely see it says it's v1.1 and has the obvious 5 pin location. Is this what yours looks like?

no unfortunatly mine are Elitech units and say "STC1000-power_V1.1" with a date of 06.20 2009 on the board (I assume its a date)
the display board however is an "stc1000-Display_V1.0" though which makes things more confusing...
The one I bought a year ago is the same thing.

I read through most of the thread last night and have seen that there are many versions some from the same suppliers... I do have some of the "other controllers that look like an stc 1000 but have a completly different menu structure and use Fahrenheit instead. I'm not even going to bother checking those.

 

[augiedoggy]

I just ordered one from "The black box" since I already have the uno and plan on getting more of these and cooling jackets for my fermentors down the road... looking forward to getting everything running.

 

[adam01]

Hey Alpha; Have you measured the current used by the Stc1000 ? I was hoping to
drive a 10-20ma fan/relay from the internal power supply. I see the converter is rated for
500ma.

I figure I can drive a relay with the control from the existing relay and use the power/ground
to drive it and the relay output.

 

[smithabusa]

I put together a video that shows the profile editor, inserting into a sketch, and flashing. I meant for it to be short but ended up 18mins long, oops

http://youtu.be/JQ-T24zxWb0

 

[MikeInMKE]

Hello alpha,

From one (former) embedded programmer to another, nice work!

I do have a feature request. I would like to be able to see the heating and cooling duty cycles of the current setpoint.

Two reasons for this request. The first is, I just built an insulated box I plan on putting out into my cold garage (it's winter here in Wisconsin), along with a heater and a carboy of lager. I am hoping to utilize the cold weather as my refrigeration. It would be nice to know how often the heater has to run in order to maintain the setpoint. If it has to run often, or for long periods, I might decide to insulate the box further.

The second reason is, if I some day acquire a refrigerator, it'd be nice to know that, during a setpoint, I'm not cycling between powering heating and cooling, and running up my electric bill.

Again, thank you for all the nice work.

 

[misin4mati0n]

Hey Alpha; Have you measured the current used by the Stc1000 ? I was hoping to
drive a 10-20ma fan/relay from the internal power supply. I see the converter is rated for
500ma.

I figure I can drive a relay with the control from the existing relay and use the power/ground
to drive it and the relay output.

I am powering 7' of LED strip and a computer fan stir plate with mine. I have not had a problem yet. I have noticed that when the stir plate is running and I turn on the LEDs then the stir plate slows down a bit.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f258/magic-chef-mcbc580dbt-wine-beverage-fridge-fermenter-conversion-511086/#post6648189

 

[alphaomega]

I put together a video that shows the profile editor, inserting into a sketch, and flashing. I meant for it to be short but ended up 18mins long, oops

http://youtu.be/JQ-T24zxWb0

I really hate emoticons..., so \m/
Is it ok if I add it to the other vids on the front page of the project?

Hello alpha,

From one (former) embedded programmer to another, nice work!

I do have a feature request. I would like to be able to see the heating and cooling duty cycles of the current setpoint.

Two reasons for this request. The first is, I just built an insulated box I plan on putting out into my cold garage (it's winter here in Wisconsin), along with a heater and a carboy of lager. I am hoping to utilize the cold weather as my refrigeration. It would be nice to know how often the heater has to run in order to maintain the setpoint. If it has to run often, or for long periods, I might decide to insulate the box further.

The second reason is, if I some day acquire a refrigerator, it'd be nice to know that, during a setpoint, I'm not cycling between powering heating and cooling, and running up my electric bill.

Again, thank you for all the nice work.

Thanks!

I'm sorry, but that is not going to happen. First off, it is beyond the scope, secondly it would be hard to implement, thirdly it would probably not fit within code space left.
Though, the source code is open, so you are free to implement it yourself if you wanna take a stab at it, you'd probably need to shave other functionality out though.

My suggestion would be to get a cheap energy meter (or what ever they might be called in the US). Then you should be able to get a decent idea of how often the heater is running.

This is probably not news to you, but for completeness, make sure the box is leak free. More insulation is better that little, but mostly make sure there are no places air could seep through.
Go for a low wattage heater, no more than is needed (40W goes a long way). Preferably something with a large surface area and won't get hot to the touch. Use a correctly sized fuse.

As for ping-pong'ing between heating and cooling, a small wattage heater will help with this, also use sufficient hysteresis and possibly use the second probe. You will need to tweak the settings for your setup.

 

[smithabusa]

I really hate emoticons..., so \m/
Is it ok if I add it to the other vids on the front page of the project?

Absolutely no problem Mats

 

[augiedoggy]

I got my unprogrammed stc 1000 from blackbox today... It took all of 30 minutes to pull it apart and flash with my $7 uno clone (DCcdinino uno) thanks to the instructional videos.... still debating on whether I need the second probe or not.... I dont believe I will for my conical with the chiller/ heating pad setup since my temp probe reads from the center of the liquid inside... or would it still be useful?

 

[smithabusa]

Taking temp in the center imo is more of a reason to use it, id try to take temp closer to the wall

 

[MikeInMKE]

I'm sorry, but that is not going to happen. First off, it is beyond the scope, secondly it would be hard to implement, thirdly it would probably not fit within code space left. Though, the source code is open, so you are free to implement it yourself if you wanna take a stab at it, you'd probably need to shave other functionality out though.

Fair enough.

This is probably not news to you, but for completeness, make sure the box is leak free. More insulation is better that little, but mostly make sure there are no places air could seep through.
Go for a low wattage heater, no more than is needed (40W goes a long way). Preferably something with a large surface area and won't get hot to the touch. Use a correctly sized fuse.

It's currently 8 degrees F outside, and 26 degrees F in my garage. I figured it's a good opportunity to test my new insulated fermentation box. I placed a 25W desk lamp inside the box, along with the STC-1000+'s temperature probe, with a setpoint of 50 degrees F, and after an hour it has reached an equilibrium with the lamp on 100% of the time with an internal temperature of 42 degrees F.

Thus, 25W is insufficient to maintain 50 degrees in a 26 degree garage, as the box currently is. I'll have to look around for a heat source closer to 50W tomorrow, plus look into sealing the box better than it already is.

 

[wbarber69]

Thus, 25W is insufficient to maintain 50 degrees in a 26 degree garage, as the box currently is. I'll have to look around for a heat source closer to 50W tomorrow, plus look into sealing the box better than it already is.

Did you do the test with or without a mass of liquid inside the chamber. Without it you're trying to bring an empty space up from nothing and hold it there. A jar of water or a carboy filled with water would be a better test.

 

[augiedoggy]

Taking temp in the center imo is more of a reason to use it, id try to take temp closer to the wall

ok...I have a bunch of probes since I have like 5 stc1000/clones... I see on gethub where it mentions the resistor to add the second probe which I have but where it the best place to permanently install it? did I read it right in that it suggests installing it between to of the 5 programming points? Seems odd to me...

 

[smithabusa]

ok...I have a bunch of probes since I have like 5 stc1000/clones... I see on gethub where it mentions the resistor to add the second probe which I have but where it the best place to permanently install it? did I read it right in that it suggests installing it between to of the 5 programming points? Seems odd to me...

you can,i buy the correct size surface mount resistor and put it in front of the terminal block. Not the easiest to do the first time around though

 

[alphaomega]

ok...I have a bunch of probes since I have like 5 stc1000/clones... I see on gethub where it mentions the resistor to add the second probe which I have but where it the best place to permanently install it? did I read it right in that it suggests installing it between to of the 5 programming points? Seems odd to me...

I'll try to explain as good as I can. The missing resistor can be difficult to install, due to being surface mount and obscured by the screw terminal. The ressistor should be connected between AN1 and ground. However, AN1 is shared with ICSPCLK. The probe should then be connected between AN1 and VCC. All these connections are availiable on the programming header as well, so it can be easier to tap in there. Electrically it is the same thing.

 

[doug293cz]

Did you do the test with or without a mass of liquid inside the chamber. Without it you're trying to bring an empty space up from nothing and hold it there. A jar of water or a carboy filled with water would be a better test.

A larger mass of liquid (or anything else) in the chamber will not affect the rate of heat flow into, or out of, the chamber for any given inside vs. outside temperature difference. The larger mass will only slow down the rate at which the inside of the chamber + mass comes to equilibrium. The preceding holds if the mass is not undergoing exothermic or endothermic processes (eg fermentation.)

So, Mike's test is valid, and shows he needs more heater capacity for his chamber configuration and temperature differential.

Brew on

 

[MikeInMKE]

A larger mass of liquid (or anything else) in the chamber will not affect the rate of heat flow into, or out of, the chamber for any given inside vs. outside temperature difference. The larger mass will only slow down the rate at which the inside of the chamber + mass comes to equilibrium. The preceding holds if the mass is not undergoing exothermic or endothermic processes (eg fermentation.)

So, Mike's test is valid, and shows he needs more heater capacity for his chamber configuration and temperature differential.

Brew on

Agreed. I replaced the 25W bulb with a 60W bulb, and I can achieve 50 degrees F in my 22 degree garage. I just changed the setpoint to 65 degrees F to see if 60W is sufficient to raise it up to d-rest temperatures. I will also be improving the sealing of my box tonight, which I expect will improve things.

Here is a picture of the box I built out of a 4x8 foot 1-inch thick polyisocyanurate foam board with aluminum film facing on both sides, held together with nothing more than 2-inch wide aluminum tape. The five-sided box (open on the bottom) is to be placed on the base, made from two layers of the same material. I am going to seal the inside seams with silicone caulk, and add a rubber weather seal strip between the base and the bottom edge of the box so that it seals better.

 

[alphaomega]

I said it before and I'll say it again. I'm not a fan of bulb heaters. They do get hot.
Isocyanopropyschmoppy board sounds like excellent insulation, but I'll venture a guess it will realease nasty fumes if it gets hot and might make good kindle.
I'm not gonna preach or point fingers, it never helps anyway, but if you are gonna use a bulb at least be smart about it (like safety distances, don't let heat accumulate and use a correctly sized fuse).