Stc-1000+

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CNevay said:
@januzz - I would love to see some pictures of your STC BIAB electrical panel buildup. I've been considering trying to build something as well but haven't found much for inspiration
Click to expand...

Hi,

I built the STC into a junctionbox (is that the correct english name?) that i had leftover from a solarpanel installation. I added a power adapter (for the pump) , a 4Kw dimmer to control the boil, a digital power panel meter , the STC1000+ , the SSR and a switch.

Actually this is an old picture since i removed the Dimmer because it was of no use (i needed full power for boiling in my 70 Liter Kettle) and just generated extra heath inside the box .

I still need to add extra switch for overruling the STC (in case when im in the middle of a brew and the STC isn't working anymore or something) and some extra lights. Also i ordered some XLR connectors for the cable to the pump.

let me know if you need more pics or info

Jan

controller jan v01.jpg


huhu.JPG
 
@januzz - that's a beautiful panel, well done. I would love to see a photo of the inside wiring if you have it or next time you open it up!
 
FWIW, I was testing out some Chinese Uno compatibles which I was having trouble with on another application.

I initially I had trouble with the IDE finding the usb ports. Once I swapped ports a few times I was able to successfully upload the sketch to the Uno and flash the STC 1000.

I was able to do it on the Windows 1.6.5 IDE and on linux 1.6.6 IDE. I did have trouble on the linux machine as the sketch uploaded with errors initially, but a 2nd time it worked.

I was flashing my 2 probe prototype STC 1000 which has had all sorts of soldering everywhere and has the 10k resistor and the 2nd probe soldered directly to the programming header. Because of this I had a lot of trouble getting good contact and when I sent 'd' it often returned "STC 1000 not found". Once I bent the pins on the header to fit around wires, raised solder and into empty holes, I got good contact and flashed the unit.

So the 1.6.6 IDE "should" work. For me the biggest problems were good contact and the Uno being detected on the USB port it was on.

I didn't test out the 1.6.7 IDE.
 
alphaomega said:
@p_p : Use a low wattage heater. A long heating delay is also good.
Once fermentation is complete, it doesn't matter as much. Doesn't matter if it takes an hour or a day to reach diacetyl rest temp. You just don't want to heat more than you have to.
This has been up for discussion before in this thread. Complexity is one thing, buy mainly, if you are trying to maintain a temperature, why would it be ok to differ more in one direction than the other? Use a larger hysteresis setting then, and set another temperature instead.
Click to expand...

Mats, thank you for reply. Apologies I have not read the whole thread.

I am not familiar enough with github to know if you have visibility all forked repositories.
In my setup I belive would be useful to have separate Heat/Cool set points so I had a go at implementing it in the most simplistic way (see attached graph and branch 2489/PP_004)
- New configuration parameter SPd (Set Point Difference) introduced.
- SPd has a default value of 0°C/F and defines how far below the Set Point corresponding to the heating cycle is in relation to the cooling cycle
- The parameters in the graph below are SP (Set Point), hy (Hysteresis) and SPd (new, Set Point Difference)
- The change was done for single probe setup only as I do not have means to check other configurations have enough EEPROM to host the new parameter.

On a slightly different subject, I've also implemented a "menu lock" feature. The changes are in branch 2489/PP_005
I have a toddler running around and a bright display with numbers and buttons is way too tempting for him!
The way it works is:
- BTN UP+DOWN (displays version), followed by PWR enables menu lock
- BTN UP+DOWN (displays version), followed by PWR for 10s disables menu lock
- When in menu locked state, the only menu action allowed is to disable menu lock
- Access to menu items is allowed if in alarm.

Unfortunately I don't have the unit available for testing, so these changes are yet to be validated.
I thought you may want to have a quick look to review if I have gone completely wrong?

Thanks

SPDiff.png
 
may be a silly question, but I wanted to be safe, rather than sorry...is there a "right way" and a "wrong way" to wire in the sensor to the STC 100 prior to flashing? my two wires look to be identical with no clear markings on either, except about 1/2 way up, I see some white/grey printing on one of them.

sorry if this is a newb question, and thanks all for your help.
 
p_p said:
Mats, thank you for reply. Apologies I have not read the whole thread.



I am not familiar enough with github to know if you have visibility all forked repositories.

In my setup I belive would be useful to have separate Heat/Cool set points so I had a go at implementing it in the most simplistic way (see attached graph and branch 2489/PP_004)

- New configuration parameter SPd (Set Point Difference) introduced.

- SPd has a default value of 0°C/F and defines how far below the Set Point corresponding to the heating cycle is in relation to the cooling cycle

- The parameters in the graph below are SP (Set Point), hy (Hysteresis) and SPd (new, Set Point Difference)

- The change was done for single probe setup only as I do not have means to check other configurations have enough EEPROM to host the new parameter.



On a slightly different subject, I've also implemented a "menu lock" feature. The changes are in branch 2489/PP_005

I have a toddler running around and a bright display with numbers and buttons is way too tempting for him!

The way it works is:

- BTN UP+DOWN (displays version), followed by PWR enables menu lock

- BTN UP+DOWN (displays version), followed by PWR for 10s disables menu lock

- When in menu locked state, the only menu action allowed is to disable menu lock

- Access to menu items is allowed if in alarm.



Unfortunately I don't have the unit available for testing, so these changes are yet to be validated.

I thought you may want to have a quick look to review if I have gone completely wrong?



Thanks
Click to expand...


That seems a clever way to tackle the solution you are after.

I really like the "child lock" feature!
 
what is everyone using to remove the film from the underside of the STC1000? I tried gently to remove what was on mine with a flat head screw driver and I can get it to power, but when I send the d, it doesn't detect :(

I will double check all my wires and connections, but here is my set up:

arduino UNO original
dupont wires
female pin header, just using the no solder method.

thanks, and my apologizes for being such a rookie/newbie.
 
A50SNAKE said:
what is everyone using to remove the film from the underside of the STC1000? I tried gently to remove what was on mine with a flat head screw driver and I can get it to power, but when I send the d, it doesn't detect :(

I will double check all my wires and connections, but here is my set up:

arduino UNO original
dupont wires
female pin header, just using the no solder method.

thanks, and my apologizes for being such a rookie/newbie.
Click to expand...

I used the pins on the header to scratch the coating off the solder points.
 
A50SNAKE said:
ok, thanks soo much...yes, mine came with a hard copy of this, but I wasn't sure what that symbol on the right port meant...and some pictures I saw online mentioned a + & - port, so I just wanted to check first.

thanks again everyone for your help.
Click to expand...

You can validate that your sensor is wired properly by wiring it into the two sensor terminals and then powering it up (before flashing with the STC1000+ firmware). If wired properly, you will see the temperature of the probe (in Celsius). If this works, you are good to go for flashing.
 
What is the correct link to buy the stc1000+ from? The link in the first post and the one in the github page go to different stores.
 
mattrox said:
I used the pins on the header to scratch the coating off the solder points.
Click to expand...

I tried that a few times, and it does get power, as the display lights up...but sending the d command always fails...I'm going to check later on that all my wires are in the proper spots... :mug:

craigmw said:
You can validate that your sensor is wired properly by wiring it into the two sensor terminals and then powering it up (before flashing with the STC1000+ firmware). If wired properly, you will see the temperature of the probe (in Celsius). If this works, you are good to go for flashing.
Click to expand...

thanks soo much....yes, when I touch the pins from my header to the 5 pads on the bottom, the display atleast lights up, and reads some numbers...so that should be a good sign, right? LOL... :tank:

thanks again everyone...I'll get it, I'm sure...maybe....eventually....
 
I had one controller (out of 6 or 7 that I have) that no matter what I tried, I could never get it to flash. Same as yours. I'd send the 'd' command and it would not be recognized. Checked and rechecked, wired and rewired. Checked continuity everywhere, just could not get it to flash. Ended up giving up and just using it for a keezer controller.
 
I think I've had three of the 150-200 units I've done, that have been like that. One I could fix (I think it was a bad connection of ISCPCLK between the two boards), but the other two were working fine, but just wouldn't program and I couldn't figure out why.
 
RocketBrewer said:
I had one controller (out of 6 or 7 that I have) that no matter what I tried, I could never get it to flash. Same as yours. I'd send the 'd' command and it would not be recognized. Checked and rechecked, wired and rewired. Checked continuity everywhere, just could not get it to flash. Ended up giving up and just using it for a keezer controller.
Click to expand...

alphaomega said:
I think I've had three of the 150-200 units I've done, that have been like that. One I could fix (I think it was a bad connection of ISCPCLK between the two boards), but the other two were working fine, but just wouldn't program and I couldn't figure out why.
Click to expand...

sounds good guys....thanks soo much for your replies...

my plan is to just use this on a keezer....I haven't found a freezer yet, but just planning ahead, would I be ok with this as a stock STC 1000?
 
I bought a Lasko MyHeat (http://www.laskoproducts.com/myheat™-personal-heater-model-100/) to use as a heat source for my fermentation fridge in the garage. I'm in the northern US - so it gets down to the teens in the garage.

Is 200w too much for the STC-1000/fridge? I tried connecting it today and it did not turn on. Plugging it into the wall in the house works fine. I tried switching neutral/hot to be extra sure it was not related to the wiring.
 
bvanderhaar said:
I bought a Lasko MyHeat (http://www.laskoproducts.com/myheat™-personal-heater-model-100/) to use as a heat source for my fermentation fridge in the garage. I'm in the northern US - so it gets down to the teens in the garage.

Is 200w too much for the STC-1000/fridge? I tried connecting it today and it did not turn on. Plugging it into the wall in the house works fine. I tried switching neutral/hot to be extra sure it was not related to the wiring.
Click to expand...

It depends on the size of your fridge. If it's not coming on, either you're not waiting long enough for the heating delay or you have a wiring issue. you also didn't mention if you're using a single or dual probe version. I use the same heaters in my 10cf fridge with a dual probe version and I find that I need to decrease hy2 to keep it from overheating and kicking the fridge on.
 
RocketBrewer said:
It depends on the size of your fridge. If it's not coming on, either you're not waiting long enough for the heating delay or you have a wiring issue. you also didn't mention if you're using a single or dual probe version. I use the same heaters in my 10cf fridge with a dual probe version and I find that I need to decrease hy2 to keep it from overheating and kicking the fridge on.
Click to expand...

Thank you for responding so quickly. I only have a single temp probe. The current heating delay is 2 minutes - I plan to set it 30-60 once I've confirmed it's working. I'm pretty sure the heating delay expired - once the light by heat or cold stops blinking - it should switch on the power to the switch, right? It works that way for the cold - which is set to 5 minute delay.
My fermentation fridge is a Frigidaire GLRS267ZD - 26 Cu Ft side by side.
 
I feel like I'm going to want to delete this post after I figure this out from embarrassment, but here it goes:
Connecting the heater to the always hot/neutral - works (as expected)
To make sure the introduction of the STC-1000 isn't causing some sort of issue - connecting the heater to STC-1000's 5 & 6 ports while jumping STC-1000's 2 and 6 port - heater stays on all the time (as expected)
Deleting the jumper from 2 & 6 (neutral), I'd expect STC-1000 to turn on the heater. It does not; I even hear the physical click of it turning the switch & the heater has no life.

Here's the kicker - I tried this on two separate STC-1000 units. I'm missing something obvious. My cool works. I know I have the ability to set this up...
 
bvanderhaar said:
I feel like I'm going to want to delete this post after I figure this out from embarrassment, but here it goes:

Connecting the heater to the always hot/neutral - works (as expected)

To make sure the introduction of the STC-1000 isn't causing some sort of issue - connecting the heater to STC-1000's 5 & 6 ports while jumping STC-1000's 2 and 6 port - heater stays on all the time (as expected)

Deleting the jumper from 2 & 6 (neutral), I'd expect STC-1000 to turn on the heater. It does not; I even hear the physical click of it turning the switch & the heater has no life.



Here's the kicker - I tried this on two separate STC-1000 units. I'm missing something obvious. My cool works. I know I have the ability to set this up...
Click to expand...


The hot and neutral go to 1 and 2 respectively.

Only jump the hot from 1 to 5 to 7.

Take a neutral from 2 to each outlet. Take a hot from 6 to one outlet and a hot from 8 to the other outlet.

The relay switches hot.
 
mattrox said:
The hot and neutral go to 1 and 2 respectively.

Only jump the hot from 1 to 5 to 7.

Take a neutral from 2 to each outlet. Take a hot from 6 to one outlet and a hot from 8 to the other outlet.

The relay switches hot.
Click to expand...

So...electricity 101? Must've forgot the basics after a long brew day. Works perfectly - thanks!
 
bvanderhaar said:
I feel like I'm going to want to delete this post after I figure this out from embarrassment, but here it goes:...
Click to expand...

I did the same thing with the same heater even though I've wired several of these units before and should have remembered that power to the unit doesn't power the heating and cooling circuits. D'oh! :smack:
 
schmartz said:
I did the same thing with the same heater even though I've wired several of these units before and should have remembered that power to the unit doesn't power the heating and cooling circuits. D'oh! :smack:
Click to expand...

It feels slightly better I'm not the only one. I guess I deserve it since I was overconfident enough to do a brew & wire up the heater in a single day thinking it'll only take a few extra minutes...
 
I have my 2 probe controller cooling wort now.

Today's temperature is 39.1 deg C.

I'm chilling the wort from 25 deg C to 18 deg C. I set the "hy2" to 12 deg C.

The wort a moment ago was 20.3 deg C and the fridge temp was 15.3 deg C.

The difference between the two has never been more than 6 deg C. I might have to trim the "hy2" down a bit. I will have to see how it performs as the wort approaches 18 deg.
 
I missed the temperature hitting the set point. When I checked a moment ago the wort was 18.5 deg (0.5 hysterisis) and fridge was 19.3. Cooling will kick in soon.

Working like a charm!
 
p_p said:
Mats, thank you for reply. Apologies I have not read the whole thread.

I am not familiar enough with github to know if you have visibility all forked repositories.
In my setup I belive would be useful to have separate Heat/Cool set points so I had a go at implementing it in the most simplistic way (see attached graph and branch 2489/PP_004)
- New configuration parameter SPd (Set Point Difference) introduced.
- SPd has a default value of 0°C/F and defines how far below the Set Point corresponding to the heating cycle is in relation to the cooling cycle
- The parameters in the graph below are SP (Set Point), hy (Hysteresis) and SPd (new, Set Point Difference)
- The change was done for single probe setup only as I do not have means to check other configurations have enough EEPROM to host the new parameter.

On a slightly different subject, I've also implemented a "menu lock" feature. The changes are in branch 2489/PP_005
I have a toddler running around and a bright display with numbers and buttons is way too tempting for him!
The way it works is:
- BTN UP+DOWN (displays version), followed by PWR enables menu lock
- BTN UP+DOWN (displays version), followed by PWR for 10s disables menu lock
- When in menu locked state, the only menu action allowed is to disable menu lock
- Access to menu items is allowed if in alarm.

Unfortunately I don't have the unit available for testing, so these changes are yet to be validated.
I thought you may want to have a quick look to review if I have gone completely wrong?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Sorry for the late reply.
First off, I still don't agree with different hysteresis for heating and cooling, but if that is something you want AND you fixed it yourself, then kudos!
The child lock feature is a pretty good idea though. I've had a quick look at the PP_005 branch, and I think you're on the right track.
I don't like that there is duplicated code (special case for show_version, when up and down is pressed). I'd like to see that refactored to eliminate the duplication.
There might be an issue with "power off" and this, but it might not show (that is show version runs even if 'powered off', but if screen is blanked, you might not see that).
I can't spot anything obviously wrong though :)
Keep it up! Hack away!
 
Hello guys, hoping you can help me. I have a stc1000 running the ovbsc software. Switched it on for the first time this afternoon after integrating into my controller box and when I tried to run manual mode to trigger the heating relay, the alarm sounds when the relay is on. I have modified the relays for SSR operation, i.e. I've bridged the relays to get dc to the screw terminals. Am I doing something wrong or could I have caused this through modification? I also added a header in order to flash the software.
 
lewisash said:
Hello guys, hoping you can help me. I have a stc1000 running the ovbsc software. Switched it on for the first time this afternoon after integrating into my controller box and when I tried to run manual mode to trigger the heating relay, the alarm sounds when the relay is on. I have modified the relays for SSR operation, i.e. I've bridged the relays to get dc to the screw terminals. Am I doing something wrong or could I have caused this through modification? I also added a header in order to flash the software.
Click to expand...

Are you trying to power your SSRs directly from the STC mobo, effectively bypassing the relays? I doubt it can supply the amperage needed by the SSRs. Those STC relays are held by a few mA, driven by a small transistor.
 
lewisash said:
Hello guys, hoping you can help me. I have a stc1000 running the ovbsc software. Switched it on for the first time this afternoon after integrating into my controller box and when I tried to run manual mode to trigger the heating relay, the alarm sounds when the relay is on. I have modified the relays for SSR operation, i.e. I've bridged the relays to get dc to the screw terminals. Am I doing something wrong or could I have caused this through modification? I also added a header in order to flash the software.
Click to expand...

Does this help?
https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p/wiki/1.5.2-Solid-state-relay
 

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