Stc-1000+

[alphaomega]

Mine arrived and it seems to be the right version:

Now I am waiting for arduino uno.

Yes, that looks right! Good luck!

On a side note, I have ordered an Arduino pro mini (5v) + CP2102 combo off ebay. I see no reason (yet..) this would not work fine as a substitute for the UNO. It will require some real easy soldering, but it will be smaller and suitable to use as a dedicated stc-1000+ programmer. And the combo is less than 5 bucks on ebay.

I will post results when I receive them (in a few weeks).

 

[kenny_d]

Yes, that looks right! Good luck!

On a side note, I have ordered an Arduino pro mini (5v) + CP2102 combo off ebay. I see no reason (yet..) this would not work fine as a substitute for the UNO. It will require some real easy soldering, but it will be smaller and suitable to use as a dedicated stc-1000+ programmer. And the combo is less than 5 bucks on ebay.

I will post results when I receive them (in a few weeks).

Can you post a link or tell me who the seller is? I love cheap solutions!

 

[alphaomega]

I dont like to promote any single seller. Just search ebay for "pro mini 5v cp2102", you should have no problem finding a good seller for these.
I can't make promises yet as to if it will work ok, but as I said there are really no reason it shouldn't. I've used cheap pro mini knockoffs before, and there's whole a lot of bang for buck there.

 

[IslandLizard]

Where are you guys getting your STC v1.0 from? Or is it still a crap shoot?

 

[wilconrad]

Where are you guys getting your STC v1.0 from? Or is it still a crap shoot?

I've had good luck from Lerway on Amazon. Not saying it's a guarantee, but I've gotten 50 controllers from them and all have been 1.0.

Keep in mind that this is "fulfilled by Amazon", so that opens up a whole range of potential sources, as I understand it. Good luck!

 

[IslandLizard]

I've had good luck from Lerway on Amazon. Not saying it's a guarantee, but I've gotten 50 controllers from them and all have been 1.0.

Keep in mind that this is "fulfilled by Amazon", so that opens up a whole range of potential sources, as I understand it. Good luck!

Thank you, I'll give them a try. Hopefully I'm as lucky as you are or I'll end up with another 3 of the wrong revision.

 

[njenabnit]

My uno came in the mail last week and I was able to flash 2 STC's over the weekend. I had some initial issues with the Uno frequently disconnecting and reconnecting, but a new USB cable fixed that right away.

Super easy to do and an AWESOME mod! I'm not using the temp profiles yet, but I feel a lager in my future just because of this new FW.

 

[KindofBlues71]

Is there any way to use the STC's with a computer or RaspberryPi running BrewPi for data logging, or would I have to ditch them for Unos? It'd be awesome to be able to continue using the STC's.

 

[billybryson54]

I've had good luck from Lerway on Amazon. Not saying it's a guarantee, but I've gotten 50 controllers from them and all have been 1.0.

Keep in mind that this is "fulfilled by Amazon", so that opens up a whole range of potential sources, as I understand it. Good luck!

50 controllers? How many damn fermenters do you have? Lol

 

[wilconrad]

Ha, no, wish I had time to brew that much! Actually, I've been building them up and selling them as a little side project.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[disney7]

Is there any way to use the STC's with a computer or RaspberryPi running BrewPi for data logging, or would I have to ditch them for Unos? It'd be awesome to be able to continue using the STC's.

I think Alpha has said in this thread somewhere that it isn't feasible to try to data log with the STC. There isn't much memory space on the STC and you'd have to give up a lot of functionality.

If you want to use an Arduino to data log, forget the STC and just hook a DS18B20 and a memory card up to it. No need to involve the STC.

 

[balrog]

Or just get a 16000 pt stand alone temp logger w ext probe off eBay (example). The downside is it's only one probe, and you have to xfr to PC to see the data.

But if you have Arduino already, get the Ethernet shield & however many DS18B20 & have it web serve your temps & log or try the log to Xively.

 

[gingercat]

It'd be great if it was possible to just use the STC as a hardware interface but all the logic could be controlled by an Arduino connected via serial. I don't even know if it is possible hardware-wise with the STC, and ut would obviously need completely different firmware to support reading/writing display values, switching on the outputs etc.

 

[balrog]

Don't think that is possible, since the STC is a closed system programmable chip, not built for external interface. And while AlphaOmega has figured how to change the code the STC is running, because you flash via header pins to make changes, then let it run. And there is no room left to put in real time register modification and input output interface code like you have with the Arduino.


Sent from my iPod touch using Home Brew

 

[gingercat]

Thanks - damn shame though, would have made for a very neat BrewPi solution!

 

[atoughram]

Don't think that is possible, since the STC is a closed system programmable chip, not built for external interface. And while AlphaOmega has figured how to change the code the STC is running, because you flash via header pins to make changes, then let it run. And there is no room left to put in real time register modification and input output interface code like you have with the Arduino.


Sent from my iPod touch using Home Brew

The STC1000+ is based on a PIC16F1828 MCU. The PIC16F1828 has two USARTS which could be used to interface to an Arduino if you were so inclined to rewrite all the code. The USART pins are RB5/RB7 and RC4/RC5, which are already used to run the display. So, if you want to give up part of the display, you could have an external interface.. Not sure why you'd want to though. The STC1000+ is an awesome standalone dual stage temp. controller. If you must get fancy, look into a brewpi.

Reference:
https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p/blob/master/page0.c
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/41419A.pdf

 

[balrog]

Originally Posted by balrog Don't think that is possible

The STC1000+ ... has two USARTS which could be used to interface to an Arduino ... So, if you want to give up part of the display, you could have an external interface ...

Oops. Sorry. :smack:

 

[alphaomega]

You are all correct.
While it might be possible to have the STC talk serial, doing so will probably not be worthwile.
The is no way all/most/some of the functionality of the Arduino from the BrewPi project will ever fit on the STC. As the MCU in the STC is an order of magnitude smaller and as I am somewhat familiar with the AVR/Arduino code for BrewPi (been doing some work on running profiles on the Arduino instead of on the RPi), I know they are pushing the limits on code size on the AVR side.

So, yeah. You will probably need to give up display on the STC to use serial. Maybe the pins could be shared, but it would probably be non trivial, if even possible (and there are no easily accessible solder points). Secondly, you would probably need a simpler protocol than what is currently used in BrewPi, you would only be able to do the absolute bare minimum, read temperature and set thermostat setpoint (or possibly directly set relays). The temperature regulation algorithm in the BrewPi is complex and requires both fridge temp and beer temp. Even if processing could be offloaded, you'd still only have the one temp.
Fourth, you would need to give up some functionality of STC-1000+ to fit serial stuff. Only thing possible to remove is profiles and trimming fat off menu and button handling.

Even if you are a god with the soldering iron, and clever enough to come up with a scheme to share the pins in question, you're probably not all that much better off...

 

[atoughram]

Even if you are a god with the soldering iron, and clever enough to come up with a scheme to share the pins in question, you're probably not all that much better off...

Exactly - if your willing to go this far, your willing to start from scratch and design a circuit/code that does exactly what you want without any of the STC1000's hardware shortcomings.

 

[fadman]

Thank you, I'll give them a try. Hopefully I'm as lucky as you are or I'll end up with another 3 of the wrong revision.

I was having good luck with LERWAY as well. The 2 I ordered in March and April were both v1.0. The last one I ordered in May was dated 2014 and not flashable. I'm currently putting together a schematic and building a new PCB for it. I'll post results when it's working.

 

[KindofBlues71]

...correct...

...might be possible...

...probably...

...Maybe...

...probably...

...possible...

...probably...

So you're saying there's a chance... ; )

 

[alphaomega]

Well, I'm not really sold on the idea, as i don't really see the benefit.
If you really want communication between the stc and an arduino, I'd suggest forgetting about the uarts and look into ICSPDAT and/or ICSPCLK. Maybe you could devise a protocol that is simple to bitbang on the stc.
Still, you'd have to give something up first.

 

[KindofBlues71]

I was only joking in my previous post. I don't know anything about electronics, but I understand all the reasons why it would be very difficult to do.

I don't want to derail this topic any more than I already have. I guess I just have brewpi-envy! Back on topic...

I'm going to be brewing my first lager, an Oktoberfest, for my brother-in-law's birthday and I can't wait to setup the profile. I was a bit confused about how to do it but the videos were awesome! Many thanks!

 

[atoughram]

I guess I just have brewpi-envy!

What are you envious about?

Logging? Logging can be done for $20 bucks or so with pretty graphs and everything through Xively. It takes a Arduino Uno, Ethernet Shield, and a DS18B20 sensor or two - Take a look at the cheap logging thread in linked in Fuzzewuzze's signature. I've posted a few pictures from Xively in this thread from that setup.

Once you've got that hooked up, your only a Raspberry Pi and a few SSR's away from a Brewpi and you can add temperature control to the temperature logging.

Has anyone tried using a thermal well on the STC? I'm curious.

 

[greyghost]

What are you envious about?



Has anyone tried using a thermal well on the STC? I'm curious.

That is the only way I use mine Russ

 

[atoughram]

That is the only way I use mine Russ

Do you heat and cool? I'm going to have to look at this... We'll shoot for Sunday.

 

[alphaomega]

Sorry for the slight off topic...
I'm finally finishing up the 'fermatory' (i.e.my fermentation fridge, the name is a nod to the recently deceased swedish death metal force Vomitory).

This was the whole reason the STC-1000+ project got started to begin with. Initially I was planning on using an arduino, and just use the relay part of the STC-1000,but found that it had an MCU that I could probably 'reuse'.
I know this might not really be the place, but I don't want to start a new thread either.

I started out by desoldering the display/keypad/MCU part. This is a royal pain, I got lucky this time and the only solder pad I broke was an unused one.

In case you want to do something similar, the pads are from left to right:
GND, GND, GND, GND, nMCLR, N/C, cooling relay, heating relay, Vcc, Vcc, Vcc, GND, GND, ICSPDAT, ICSPCLK, thermistor

I used my trusty dremel knock off to cut a hole in the door, that would fit the front panel. In fact it fits so snugly, I don't need to secure it with anything.

This is from the back side of the door, with the hole cut in the insulation. I needed to replace the plastic shelving, as my buckets won't fit otherwise. I got some sheet metal cut to the correct size to replace it. I don't have any pic of it, but it looks really good.

I found a project box in a local store that fit the STC's main board perfectly (in fact, it was just a hair to small, so I filed down the sides of the PCB about 1mm). To make room for connectors, I also trimmed the fat off the board (note at the top, only a single line of solder pads now). The casing will fit a C13 connector for the heater, a mini XLR for the probe, a fuse holder, a power switch and a DB9 for connecting the front with the back again.

Here's the thermostat replaced with the STC's guts, all packaged up neatly. The C13 power connector is on the back, the mini XLR on the bottom and on the front you can see the DB9 connector, power switch and fuse holder. The box is 70 x 120 x 32 mm (2.76 x 4.73 x 1.26 inches). It was a really tight fit to cram all that into this tiny box, but it turned out really good imho.

I still have to wire up the front to another DB9 (male) that will be mounted on the sheet metal panel. A short piece of 'serial extension cord' will then connect the front to the back. Also I am waiting for eBay to deliver a tubular heater that will be used as a heat source.

Even though I'm not 100% done yet, I am already very satisfied with this project. And here's why:

• It's neat, self contained and even smaller than original thermostat.
• I know every aspect of this project, wrote the code, wired it up.
• The DB connectors make it easy to try other controllers if I want to, easy to reflash, I am also thinking about stealing some power to drive an arduino pro mini to do some logging (beer and fridge temp, air lock bubble counter, heat/cool on/off times) until I feel comfortable with my controller settings and profiles.

Cheers!

 

[gingercat]

Thanks for the pinout - very handy!

 

[KindofBlues71]

Initially I was planning on using an arduino, and just use the relay part of the STC-1000,but found that it had an MCU that I could probably 'reuse'.

That's sort of what I had in mind, except grab data from the STC itself or from its thermistor by splitting the wires or something. I'd prefer not have to use two probes on each carboy in order to do data logging, but it looks like that's what I'll have to do!

I am also thinking about stealing some power to drive an arduino pro mini to do some logging (beer and fridge temp, air lock bubble counter, heat/cool on/off times) until I feel comfortable with my controller settings and profiles.

Sweet! I hope you post that build if you get around to it. You've got some awesome ideas!

 

[ogunshay]

a mini XLR for the probe,

I'd thought about this, but was concerned about screwing up the look-up table by not connecting the probe directly to the unit.

How did you figure out that it won't throw off the measurements?

 

[alphaomega]

I'd thought about this, but was concerned about screwing up the look-up table by not connecting the probe directly to the unit.

How did you figure out that it won't throw off the measurements?

Actually, I haven't... I've so far just tested that the main board is wired correctly. But it is a 10k NTC thermistor, so the resistance over the probe changes pretty dramatically With temperature. I can't imagine that the connectors will interfere.

 

[wilconrad]

I'd thought about this, but was concerned about screwing up the look-up table by not connecting the probe directly to the unit.

How did you figure out that it won't throw off the measurements?

The mini xlr is just a connector, the probe is still connected "directly to the unit". Maybe I'm not understanding the question. Are you worried about the resistance of the connector affecting the probe reading? If so, that should be negligible if installed/connected correctly.

 

[day_trippr]

The sensor is likely a 10K thermistor, while a connector resistance will measure in the milliohm range. You could stick a hundred connectors in series with the sensor and not move the needle...

Cheers!

 

[krazydave]

FWIW I've been connecting my probes to my STCs for years now using a 1/8" mono headphone jack. It may not be XLR, but it's the same concept of having a connector inline.

I was a little concerned at first also, so I did some tests when I first built them of comparing the temps through the connector and directly connected to the STC. The temp values were always reading exactly the same either way.
I also have had a second thermometer alongside my STC probe and it's always been right in the same ballpark.

 

[ogunshay]

But it is a 10k NTC thermistor, so the resistance over the probe changes pretty dramatically With temperature. I can't imagine that the connectors will interfere.

After looking at a table for a 10K NTC thermistor, I can see why this shouldn't really be a concern - R at 20 C (68 F) can be on the order of 12K ohms.

On a related note, could someone change the lookup table that is loaded via Arduino? If using another probe, for instance?

 

[alphaomega]

Changing the lookup table for another probe would absolutely be possible, BUT the hardware is designed with the probe as one part of a voltage divider, so you can pretty much only change it to another 10k thermistor (with another curve), so there is not much point in doing so. You may as well use a 10k NTC Beta 3435 1% sensor and save yourself the trouble.

 

[priest77]

I've also ordered this probe because the one that come with my STC was the rubber one, and I think the metal one will be more sensitive, anyway I will compare them...

 

[gueykewl]

For anyone curious, I've now placed two separate orders on Amazon for the STC-1000 from AGPTek ($21.68 with Prime account). Both orders consisted of two STC's and all received were v1.0 (flashable) hardware.

Not saying that you're guaranteed by any means to get the right hardware from them, but I've had good luck so far!

I just purchased another one of these units on Amazon from AGPTek but it was a v1.1 I'll just use this one for my kegerator.

details:
AGPtek Digital All-purpose Temperature Controller STC-1000 w/Sensor
Sold by BrainyDeal

 

[Spellman]

Is there any possibility to add a feature to disable the alarm? I'm wiring up a control box and getting it all set up. Right now I don't have phone jacks wired to all of my temp sensors yet and they are a bit loud! Or is there a way to soft power them off while the alarm is running? I've tried plugging a sensor into the jack, soft powering one off, then pulling it out to plug into another to do the same, but the first one powers back on when I remove the sensor. I should have wired in a manual power switch to each one, but alas I did not think of that until they all started screaming at me!

 

[balrog]

I have a question of settings, folks--what's everyone using for hd, cd, hy? I ask because I finally have a simple setup using a little dorm fridge with 2" rigid foam board around the 5G ale pale, in the cellar, currently using STC-1000+ in simple "th" mode to keep 63°F with the STC's probe taped (insulated) against the pail. All that being said, with a "hy" of 1°F and 2m heat delay, 5m cooling delay, it's cycling about 3-5x/hr, but ranging 62.9°F--64.1°F. How do I with no knowledge balance cycling fridge per hour with hy value? I am presuming going 0.5°F for hy it will just run more?