Stc-1000+

[BMGfan]

Thanks!
It'll probably be a few more days before I have something that I can present and even then will probably have to update the manual somewhat if you guys are nice enough to give me some feedback (which I hope and believe you will).



I like the mini XLR connectors (just search ebay for 'mini XLR 5 pin'), they are great for tempsensors as well., but micro USB might work.

Sure, I feel also that the firmware is approaching stability and that there probably will be less and less updates. But, you never know if/when some bug is discovered, or someone comes up with some nifty feature. So I don't see anything wrong with having an at least somewhat accessible programming header.

On the connector front, they're a bit big, but if you have some spare space in your stc-1000 controller enclosure a 9 pin female d connector is dirt cheap and easy to find....

 

[alphaomega]

On the connector front, they're a bit big, but if you have some spare space in your stc-1000 controller enclosure a 9 pin female d connector is dirt cheap and easy to find....

The mini xlr that I'm referring to are in no way bigger than D-subs...

 

[adam01]

User Manual Comments.

1. Reorganize the 'Using STC-1000+ firmware" section into
features
Display and buttons - Describe what each button does when pushed.
Add picture of the display, explaining what is shown.
Describe what is displayed/flashed, etc.
Menu/programming
What you have already looks good.

2. Could you add the default values to the menu section so one knows what it started at.

3. Update doc to say 64 ramp steps, not 8.

Possible features ?
o flash display between current temp, program, step, set point ?
o Give names to profiles and display that ? Otherwise one has to remember
profile 4 is for Alts, 2 is for Lagers, etc.
o

Thanks.

 

[alphaomega]

User Manual Comments.

1. Reorganize the 'Using STC-1000+ firmware" section into
features
Display and buttons - Describe what each button does when pushed.
Add picture of the display, explaining what is shown.
Describe what is displayed/flashed, etc.
Menu/programming
What you have already looks good.

2. Could you add the default values to the menu section so one knows what it started at.

3. Update doc to say 64 ramp steps, not 8.

Possible features ?
o flash display between current temp, program, step, set point ?
o Give names to profiles and display that ? Otherwise one has to remember
profile 4 is for Alts, 2 is for Lagers, etc.
o

Thanks.

Thanks for the feedback!
I'll try to adress them.
1. It could probably be better organized and explained better and in more detail. I'll keep your comments on the buttons/menus in mind when I get around to it.
2. Not a bad idea. Noted. I would also like to have better defaults for the profiles, but that might not happen... I have no good source for profiles.
3. Absolutely. I need to remember to update the manual for each release...

Regarding rolling between the values on the display, that might be possible. I would not prefer that, but does not mean others won't and it could be configurable. I won't prioritize that, but I'll add it as a feature request.
Naming profiles would be nice, but I think that is just not possible. The limitations of the display is one thing. Eeprom and programspace is also scarce.

 

[alphaomega]

Hi guys!
I have release v1.03 is out. I kind of rushed this one out, as I found a bug that was not so nice. For normal fermentation temperatures I wouldn't be noticed but temperatures above 102.3 would overflow interpolation algorithm. Again, it is kind of untested code, but due to the bug, I think it probably is good to get it out sooner.
On the upside, I managed to get a filtering scheme working (I stumbled upon 'leaky integration' which is easy on the hardware) and also made some improvement on interpolation. These are pretty big improvements in my book (better temperature stability and resolution), even if it might not be evident for the casual user.

 

[day_trippr]

The mini xlr that I'm referring to are in no way bigger than D-subs...

I'm guessing the "big" comment was about the D-sub, not the XLR...

Cheers!

 

[BMGfan]

The mini xlr that I'm referring to are in no way bigger than D-subs...

Just to clarify I was referring to the d connectors being a bit big. Sorry for not being clear.

 

[alphaomega]

Ah... I need to improve on my reading comprehension skills. Sorry.
I agree, D-subs will work just fine and can be scavenged from pretty much anywhere.

 

[atoughram]

Hi guys!
I have release v1.03 is out. I kind of rushed this one out, as I found a bug that was not so nice. For normal fermentation temperatures I wouldn't be noticed but temperatures above 102.3 would overflow interpolation algorithm. Again, it is kind of untested code, but due to the bug, I think it probably is good to get it out sooner.
On the upside, I managed to get a filtering scheme working (I stumbled upon 'leaky integration' which is easy on the hardware) and also made some improvement on interpolation. These are pretty big improvements in my book (better temperature stability and resolution), even if it might not be evident for the casual user.

if I'm currently in the middle of a run with V1.01 - will re-flashing start it over again or will it start where it left off?

 

[Snicklefritz]

I guess I'm in the club. I've never messed with an arduino before but I managed to get my STC-1000 reprogrammed in about 20 minutes.

I used the no solder method and to take it a step further, I didn't even buy a header. I just taped 5 male to male dupont cables together in a makeshift header. Worked out great. Haven't had time to test the firmware out yet but I am building it into a ferm chamber I plan on finishing this weekend so should be able to test it soon. The directions and process really couldn't have been easier. Thanks to alphaomega for such a great project.

 

[nickmv]

if I'm currently in the middle of a run with V1.01 - will re-flashing start it over again or will it start where it left off?

Not necessarily, but it depends on the changes he implemented. There's 2 flash options -- flashing just the ROM and no EEPROM, and then there's flashing both.

Bottom line -- just wait it out til your run is done, unless you're having some issues.

 

[alphaomega]

Yes, that is right. If you dont mess with eeprom when flashing, then it should start up in the right place and continue the run. But I agree with nickmv, just leave it be for this run as long as you dont plan on raising temp above 100F (and I dont think you will)

 

[atoughram]

Yes, that is right. If you dont mess with eeprom when flashing, then it should start up in the right place and continue the run. But I agree with nickmv, just leave it be for this run as long as you dont plan on raising temp above 100F (and I dont think you will)

It's a saison - and it's headed for 85f... I believe it should start ramping up tonight.

 

[Lumpyyyyy]

2 Questions:

1. Do you need the arduino connected at all times or is it just for programming?

2. If you do need it at all times, would anyone be interested in me designing a case that houses both securely? I personally would do it for myself but can upload the specs for anyone wanting to make their own (via Makerbot or whatever).

 

[Spellman]

Just for flashing the new firmware, afterwards you can disconnect it and use as normal...but better! I believe the BrewPi needs one connected at all times though.

 

[Agtronic]

Hey guys, just thought I'd drop this in here. If anyone wants a SolidWorks model of an STC-1000, I spent the better part of yesterday planning out my box and got a little carried away with details. I'm happy to share the file. The dimensions are accurate.

And this is what I have planned:

Thought it could be helpful!

 

[alphaomega]

That is... Well... Wow. Nice.

 

[RocketBrewer]

That's very nice. What are the switches for?

 

[Agtronic]

Thanks guys! The first switch is the main power to kill the entire box and the other two are just auxiliaries for the two extra sockets on the back. I figured it might be useful in the future, maybe to run a fan inside the fridge for the tower or something like that.

I'm now looking into the Arduino stuff. Looking forward to playing with that side of it!

 

[adam01]

Definitely a nice enclosure . Would sit nicely on top of the fermentation chamber, cleaning
up the clutter of a power strip and the SSRs I use.

 

[Agtronic]

The box is made by Hammond Canada, and it looks pretty much exactly the same as in my renderings, I am basically using it upside down. It was ~$12.

http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg4.htm

 

[disney7]

I'm a little late to the game on these latest versions, but I have a 48 hour cold crash test going with v1.03.

 

[Snicklefritz]

Hope its OK to share this here. Just finished my ferm chamber with built in STC-1000+. Working Great!

 

[uatuba]

Hope its OK to share this here. Just finished my ferm chamber with built in STC-1000+. Working Great!

Cool! You have a fermentation chamber that survived the war


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[krazydave]

I have a question about how the the ramping and editing a current set point works.

Let's say that I'm in the middle of a ramping process from 60-70F over 8 days and I decide mid-way that I want to ramp to 75F instead. If I change the current set point, how does that effect my current ramp in progress?

Will it even see it?
Does it start the clock over at 8 days?
Does it just pick up the new set point and divide the ramp from the current temp by 64 and start from there leaving the clock where it was (assuming v1.01 or higher)?

Then another question. With the ramping divided by 64 now, does it still only update every hour, or will it update the set point multiple times in an hour if your ramping period is short?

I have two flashed with 1.03 and one will likely be fermenting an IPA starting this weekend. Flashing works a lot better when you actually upload to the arduino (facepalm)

 

[alphaomega]

Ok, so with a ramp over 8 days, setpoint will update every third hour (as there are 8*24=196 hours and with 64 substeps, 196/64=3 hours).
Now, if the ramp goes from 60 to 70F, then at you can calc the new setpoint bu calculating how far along in the step you are. For simplicitys sake say you are 64 hours in, 64/196 = 1/3. If you are one third in, then there is 1 - 1/3 = 2/3 left to go.
The setpoint will then be 60 * 2/3+ 70 * 1/3 = 63.3 F.
If before this calculation took place, you change the profile so the step ends in 75, then the calculation will be 60*2/3+75*1/3=65 F.
So, updating the profile during the step will work, but as in this case, it will result in a "jump" in the setpoint. This might be acceptable in this case, but you could get tricky and also lower the first setpoint to counter the the jump if needed.
Also note that you shouldnt change the setpoint, SP, directly when running a profile, as it will be overwritten within the hour. Setpoint is not a part of the calculation, it is only the result.
Hope this made some sense...

 

[Djxtc]

I've been watching this post since I saw it posted on r/homebrewing finally got some time to take apart my stc1000 to check the version and want to make sure that I have the right version of the stc1000 I've uploaded two pictures one of the main board that shows the A400_P Version 1.0. The other picture shows the board with the buttons and it says A400_D&M:Version1.1 should I be worried about the version 1.1 on that board with the buttons? Would it be possible for someone that has flashed to check their board with the buttons and see if it matches what I have? Once I can confirm I'll be flashing. Thanks for all the hard work on this Alpha it's much appreciated!

 

[wilconrad]

That's the right board (v1.0), flash away!

 

[Spellman]

As far as I have seen what people say, if you have the 5 pin socket, you should be good to go. The others don't have a place to put the pins.

On another note, when setting the hour durations how exactly does that work? What I mean is the little number. Is that part of the hour or is it a fraction of the hour. For 24hrs does it need to be 240(little zero) or 24(little 4)? Might be another good tip for the manual!

 

[Lumpyyyyy]

Hey guys, just thought I'd drop this in here. If anyone wants a SolidWorks model of an STC-1000, I spent the better part of yesterday planning out my box and got a little carried away with details. I'm happy to share the file. The dimensions are accurate.

And this is what I have planned:

Thought it could be helpful!

I have solidworks and am interested in doing something like this as well. Care to share the file? I have some ideas for improvement for it as well.