Stc-1000+

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stoneBriar

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One of my STC1000+'s bit it and I can't figure out how to fix it. Can anyone vouch for the flashability of the
this link? It has worked for me before, but it's been about 3 years and I want to confirm if possible. Thanks!
 

Bigdaddyale

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One of my STC1000+'s bit it and I can't figure out how to fix it. Can anyone vouch for the flashability of the
this link? It has worked for me before, but it's been about 3 years and I want to confirm if possible. Thanks!
It says its an

temperature controller STC-1000 A-400P version

in the description - I would email the vendor and make sure
 

stoneBriar

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I'm not sure. The display no longer lights up, but the pins leading to the PIC have 5v across them. I'm not sure where I can check to see what's wrong.
 

stoneBriar

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So nothing seems obviously wrong. I have an Arduino Nano with the correct picprog loaded to it, I plugged that into my STC, the Nano blinked green then the STC made the slight buzzy “I'm flashing” noise when I plugged in my Arduino. The green light on the nano board blinked fast for 2 min, then quit (standard as I recall) but when I unplugged the nano and put the STC on mains power, the LED still didn't turn on. I don’t know enough about Arduino to get them all hooked up together and “ping” the STC. Heck at this point I can't even get the Arduino Software to recognize the nano...
 

Brumateur

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So nothing seems obviously wrong. I have an Arduino Nano with the correct picprog loaded to it, I plugged that into my STC, the Nano blinked green then the STC made the slight buzzy “I'm flashing” noise when I plugged in my Arduino. The green light on the nano board blinked fast for 2 min, then quit (standard as I recall) but when I unplugged the nano and put the STC on mains power, the LED still didn't turn on. I don’t know enough about Arduino to get them all hooked up together and “ping” the STC. Heck at this point I can't even get the Arduino Software to recognize the nano...
I can take a look to your STC and Arduino if you manage to pass it some how to Seattle area.
 

stoneBriar

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Much obliged Brumateur. Got a bit more info! I managed to power the PIC directly via an external 5v power supply and it lit up just fine. I bet the power supply is dead. I confirmed it's receiving 120v in, but as best I can tell (chemist, not electrician) it's only putting out 5v instead of 10. Anyone got a line on a replacement for that little orange box? Or a diagram of what to poke with a voltmeter to confirm my hypothesis?
 

Brumateur

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Much obliged Brumateur. Got a bit more info! I managed to power the PIC directly via an external 5v power supply and it lit up just fine. I bet the power supply is dead. I confirmed it's receiving 120v in, but as best I can tell (chemist, not electrician) it's only putting out 5v instead of 10. Anyone got a line on a replacement for that little orange box? Or a diagram of what to poke with a voltmeter to confirm my hypothesis?
The "Orange box" is a transformer and , most likely, it's OK. Semiconductors failing much ahead usually. Could you make a picture of area near transformer?
 

stoneBriar

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The "Orange box" is a transformer and , most likely, it's OK. Semiconductors failing much ahead usually. Could you make a picture of area near transformer?
The yellow arrows when grounded at the yellow circle are 5v DC. I'm pretty sure those are the other side of the transformer. The AC side of the transformer reads line voltage. ignore the red and blue wires, they run to nothing right now (was for an old project).
 

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Brumateur

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The yellow arrows when grounded at the yellow circle are 5v DC. I'm pretty sure those are the other side of the transformer. The AC side of the transformer reads line voltage. ignore the red and blue wires, they run to nothing right now (was for an old project).
As a work around you can take 5V wall charger and solder it to 5v and GND
Use at least 2Amp 5V charger

image_5.jpg
 

Lalo_uy

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The yellow arrows when grounded at the yellow circle are 5v DC. I'm pretty sure those are the other side of the transformer. The AC side of the transformer reads line voltage. ignore the red and blue wires, they run to nothing right now (was for an old project).
Between the arrow you must have AC voltage 6 o 7 volts at least.
there is a 4 legged round rectifier bridge next, that will produce 12V DC, since the relays are 12v.
Right where the red wire is soldered there is a transistor shaped voltage regulator, 78L05 I guest.
That one is the main suspect to be blow off.
 

stoneBriar

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Great info, thank you Lalo_uy! I ordered 2 replacements and they are on their way. I'll post here confirming if they are the flashable 110v versions.
 

Nrose07

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V1.05 of Matt's software.
Been using it in SP mode just for a kegerator. Went to go tap my new brews today and it was not cold. Unit was on but not the fridge, then I saw a indicator light that I don't remember. It's the decimal point for F or C. Can't find anything on it in the manual. Is this light a indicator of my problem? Thanks!
 

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Konadog

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Not sure why the light is on, but you can check the outputs by plugging in something (like a fan) and try to cycle the cooling/heating outputs on/off. If it doesn't turn on, check the wire to the socket (unplug unit first!) to see if it has a good connection.

Is this a unit you built, or purchased?
 

Nrose07

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Built. I hard wired it into the fridge. It's old, from the 50's. I think it died but just wanted to make sure it wasn't a error with the controller.
 
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