Stc-1000+

[snowman_fs]

So now that we have effective temperature profile control how should we use it? I have been searching for days and the best theory I can come up with I will describe below but I can't seem to find much info from reputable sources; feedback is welcome.

My general theory is start in the mid to upper range of the yeasts happy range, (see yeasts directions and adjust accordingly) to ensure a strong start and minimize the lag phase. Holding from 3-15hrs in the range of 20-25C depending on the pitching rate and starter activity. Then drop the temp rather quickly to the lower end of the ideal range or even a degree or two below to prevent self heating and thermal runaway during the exponential growth phase. Holding the low end of the range, 15C for one to four days until exponential growth has past. Then start ramping the temperature slowly up to the top end of the ideal range to protect against stalling and achieve targeted attenuation. During the later part of the stationary phase hold the top end of the ideal range for diacetyl conversion and fermentation completion. Something like a rise from 15C to 20C over 7 days then holding 20C for 3 days. Once FG is confirmed begin cold conditioning to below 5C over two days and transfer away from the yeast.

At this point I personally would transfer to a keg, seal it up and leave it at serving temps for 3-4 days before I sample and start carbonation.

 

[wilconrad]

Want to validate I understand this. If I set SP0 to say 38 degrees with a dh0 of 0 and don't set any other profiles or setpoints it will keep the temp within the +/— of the hy setting forever is that correct? I have two stc1000 I want to flash the other one that is currently in use on my keezer. I see there is a th mode seemed like I would have some additional control with the cooling delay with the above described scenario.

If all you want to do is hold a constant temp, don't use a profile at all. Select 'th' in the run menu (for thermostat mode) and set the setpoint to where you want it (38, in this case). The controller will function as a standard STC-1000.

Cooling delay is the same in 'th' mode or while running a profile.


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[Snicklefritz]

barrooze took your advice and heated the bottom and pushed in the pins from the front. Had a good scare when I hooked it backup and the alarm was going ( I had forgotten to hook back up the temperature probe). After adding some more solder I was in business. Thanks again for the advice. Alpha thanks for helping troubleshoot as well I did actually pickup another arduino just in case but didn't need it after all.

I see that you ended up solving your problem but I wanted to post this here in case others are having the same issue. Using the no solder method, as soon as you make your connection to the STC, the USB connection on the PC is lost every single time. My solution for this was to attach the header to the STC first, then plug in USB and start the arduino serial monitor. After that, things would work just fine.

 

[krazydave]

Just cracked another one of these open... Check out this amazing soldering job from the factory!

 

[alphaomega]

The soldering does not look all that bad, but there is a lot of spatter. Probably not all that hard to clean up.
Not great, but I guess QC is not top prio at the chinese manufacturer.

 

[krazydave]

Yeah, mostly spatter, but if you look closely, two of the programming pins are bridged with spatter also.
Not a big deal, it still seems to work fine.

 

[atoughram]

VDD and VPP/MCLR/RA3 are bridged... He didnt specify if anything was connected to RA3 so it might work just fine. That bridge will have to be cleaned off before programming it though.

 

[StittsvilleJames]

Got mine flashed yesterday, yay! Everything was super easy to do, although I haven't had much practice soldering, but it all worked out in the end.

Thank you sincerely for your efforts, alphaomega. It's people like you ho make this forum as amazing as it is.

Now, I just need to find some more uses for this arduino now that I own it. It's much smaller than I was expecting. My dad dropped off a whole bunch of different value resistors, and LED's and all kinds of other little doodads and whoozits to play with and a little peg board to stick everything to as well. Any good ideas for an electronics noob?

 

[krazydave]

VDD and VPP/MCLR/RA3 are bridged... He didnt specify if anything was connected to RA3 so it might work just fine. That bridge will have to be cleaned off before programming it though.

It was cleaned and programmed yesterday, so it's all good. Just wanted to show those weary of soldering that even the company that makes these things can suck at soldering.

I've been soldering stuff for years though, so these things are easy for me. It's the surface mount stuff that's a pain in my ar$e.

 

[Djxtc]

Well my other stc1000 was the version 1.1 so now I'm going to go the DIY brewpi route. Was already looking for another use for the arduino. Wanted to say thanks again to everyone for their help.

 

[atoughram]

Ramped from 85 to 55f and the straight to 35f....

TIME TO COLD CRASH!

 

[wilconrad]

Not that it's at all ground-breaking at this point, but the v1.00 STC-1000+ just successfully completed a 2 week ramp down from 50 to 35 on my Munich dunkel lager. No issues to report. Will now flash with the v1.03. Thanks again, Alpha!

 

[atoughram]

I'm kegging in the next few day and will upgrade to 1.03 myself - but 1.01 was working well for the Saison I just did.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

Is there any reason to think this sketch won't work for an Arduino Nano? I've got a few sitting around that I've only played with a few times, and since I'll be ordering an STC-1000 in the next couple of days, I've got a great chance to put them to use.

I'm not sure how these connections match up to the Nano, though:

EDIT: Yeah, the pinouts are different... is this table correct?

Pin.....Uno.....Nano
PD0.......3.......D0
5V.......5V......Vcc
GND.....GND......GND
PB4.......8.......B4
PB5.......9.......B5

 

[Spellman]

A little update on the places to order: I have gotten 1 about a month ago from ebay (mixtea) that was 1.0, got another one about a week ago from them 1.0. Decided I wanted to do up to 4 independent ferms at 1 time so I ordered 2 more, 1.1. :smack: Just tried the AGPtek $21.68, fingers are crossed!

A few things I did notice in the differences was they used a screw in the back piece that looked like it had a washer behind it, but it was just an odd screw. The 1.1's also did not come with a screen peel on the front. Now if only these companies used accurate pictures...

 

[granitapan]

I updated the temp profile spreadsheet with 64 step ramping (old copy had 8 step ramping). Link is here

First. Thanks for creating and uploading the spreadsheet, it really helps with the programming of the STC-1000+

I downloaded the first version and was just about to tweak it to handle the 64-step ramping when I noticed you had already done it . Perhaps I'm doing something wrong but the chart does not seem to be correct in the new version.

When I put in a simple ramping from say 10 to 40 degrees during 8 hours I get one vector from 10 to 40, not 8 temp increases. Since the STC+ can only change the temp once every full hour is should be 8 steps in 8 hours, 24 in 24 hours etc. The full 64 steps will only be used if the duration is set to 160 hours (2,6 days). If I set it 8 days I see the steps so I guess you split the ramping in 64 parts regardless of the duration of the step?

It's really a minor. The first version was good enough to match the temp profile I get from BeerSmith and know how to program the STC+ but I guess you want the spreadsheet to be correct.

/Granitapan

 

[wilconrad]

Good catch Granitapan, will fix that next time I get a chance


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[KindofBlues71]

Is there a way to verify the version without cutting the sticker/voiding the warranty?

EDIT: Never mind, I was able to carefully peel back the foil sticker and both are v1.0.

For those who want to know/care, both units were from Lerway Tech via Amazon, had protective plastic on the display and the small screw without the attached washer.

 

[Snicklefritz]

Is there a way to verify the version without cutting the sticker/voiding the warranty?

I think someone in this thread mentioned that the 1.1 version they received didn't have the protective plastic film on the LCD. I guess that could have just been a coincidence though.

 

[KindofBlues71]

See my edited post above. I don't think we'll ever figure out what the version is, based on little differences like that. My heart sank a little when I saw the word "NEW" printed below the SKU on each box but both were 1.0.

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[DeltaNu1142]

I received a v1.0 from Amazon today, $16.99 from Amazon Prime here... now if I can only figure out how to do this with my Arduino Nano.

 

[alphaomega]

I don't think it should be a problem to use the nano for the upload. The only thing that *may* be a problem is if the voltage regulator doesn't have the oomph, but I don't think that will be a problem. A bit of googling should give you the correct pins to use.
Please post back how things turn out.
Good luck!

 

[KindofBlues71]

So what is everyone's setup for data logging with BrewPi software? Details please!

 

[DeltaNu1142]

I don't think it should be a problem to use the nano for the upload. The only thing that *may* be a problem is if the voltage regulator doesn't have the oomph, but I don't think that will be a problem. A bit of googling should give you the correct pins to use.
Please post back how things turn out.
Good luck!

I posted what I supposed were the pins here (previous page). I'll probably give it a try tonight.

 

[atoughram]

So what is everyone's setup for data logging with BrewPi software? Details please!

Not I - but I am working on it...

I'm datalogging with an arduino and xively.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/real-time-online-fermentation-temperature-monitor-60-a-370966/

 

[DeltaNu1142]

Please post back how things turn out. Good luck!

EDIT: I'm now at the point that in serial monitor, I see the correct prompt:

STC-1000+ firmware sketch.
Copyright 2014 Mats Staffansson
Send 'd' to check for STC-1000

...however, if I enter d, nothing happens. No acknowledgement.

The STC-1000 powers up from the Nano, probe is in, reads in C... but I get nothing back from Serial Monitor.

EDIT 2: I'm sending this device back, if they'll take it. I can't even get it to work with the factory flash... compressor delay expires, solid LED on the "cool" indicator, and no voltage at the cool relay. This is my luck. Ordered another one.

 

[Spellman]

Just to double check, you do have a hot side going into the relay right? Then the switched coming out to your outlet? With my first one I had to have the stc plugged in to 120v to be able to flash it, which I think was said to be a no no, but alas I am here to tell the tale. If I were you I would carefully try plugging it in and reflashing, and double check your relay wiring to make sure it is correct. Just remember that the relay only controls 1 pole to turn things off and on, not both your hot and neutral.

 

[alphaomega]

With my first one I had to have the stc plugged in to 120v to be able to flash it, which I think was said to be a no no, but alas I am here to tell the tale.

It is not really a no no, you just need to know what you are doing as live mains are involved. It is perfectly acceptable to power the STC as well as the Arduino from STC instead. In fact I have included some rudimentary code in the sketch to flash headless (without serial monitor), though I have not tested that code for a while, so it might not be functional atm. This could be useful though, if your STC is mounted, but you have a programming header. You could then upload the new version to the Arduino, disconnect it from your computer and bring it down to the basement (or where ever you ferment) and connect it to the STC and have it provide the power during the update.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

Yeah, I have a new STC and it's working correctly with the factory flash. When I attempted to flash it over the weekend as above, no, I didn't have 120VAC connected to it, only the probe.

I may or may not give it another try sometime soon. I'm less likely to use steps or the ramping features, but it'd be nice to see degrees in F on the STC.

 

[DrunkleJon]

I have a quick request. I have been following this thread since it started. I believe I have missed the whole 'how to' portion and would appreciate a dummies guide to materials and directions for making the STC-1000 a STC-1000+. I know that an Andruino Uno or equivalent is necessary, and there is a necessary pin diagram for reprogramming it, but an easy to find dumbed down 'manual' would be nice. I have read mention of a manual for programming, understanding it exists, but I do not know where. Possibly a good idea is to make the original post contain the "for dummies" how to manual etc.