Stc-1000+

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alphaomega said:
Even if programming failed due to connection being broken, you should not have bricked it. Try flashing it again.
Click to expand...

You were right. This one was salvaged!

I still have one that the arduino doesn't recognize though. I managed to remove the header and solder the jumper wires to it but it still doesn't recognize it. Other than not being able to re-flash it, it seems to work fine. Any ideas why it wouldn't recognize this one?

Soldering the dupont jumper wires directly to the board has worked out so much easier for me. I have a small vice with rubber jaw covers I gently clamp it in and while holding the pin against the hole with some small needle nosed pliers, I melt it from the other side. Once I have all the pins in, I just flow a little more solder at the base and cut off the excess. It would probably be much easier even if you had someone else to help.
 
Does the hardware on the STC restrict time increments to 1 hr?

I'm thinking that we could also use an STC-1000+ to control a mash profile if we could put it in "mash mode" and change the units to minutes rather than hours. We could then leverage the Profile & Ramping capabilities to manage a HERMS or RIMS mash. Possible?

"Mash Mode" could be another on/off option similar to ramping.
 
I am working on a PID control version that will have a one minute timebase. I may have to scale it down a bit as the PID control eats some resources. I dont think thermostat control will be good enough to control a RIMS setup for example.
Besides I want to see if I can make PID work on this tiny MCU ;)
 
alphaomega said:
I am working on a PID control version that will have a one minute timebase. I may have to scale it down a bit as the PID control eats some resources. I dont think thermostat control will be good enough to control a RIMS setup for example.
Besides I want to see if I can make PID work on this tiny MCU ;)
Click to expand...

Very cool, you are really squeezing every last bit out of this little guy, amazing!
 
RocketBrewer said:
OK I just set up my second STC to flash and when I send 'd' I get a message saying

Enter low voltage programming mode
Leaving programming mode
Device ID is: 0x0
STC-1000 NOT detected. Check wiring.
Click to expand...

Can't figure it out. I was able to solder a header in fairly easy on this one and got this message. Flowed more solder thinking it wasn't getting a good connection somewhere, no help. Removed the header and soldered the jumper wires directly and still get the same message. Checked the wiring many times and still get same results. It lights up and seems to function just fine otherwise (just can't flash it). ???
 
RocketBrewer said:
Can't figure it out. I was able to solder a header in fairly easy on this one and got this message. Flowed more solder thinking it wasn't getting a good connection somewhere, no help. Removed the header and soldered the jumper wires directly and still get the same message. Checked the wiring many times and still get same results. It lights up and seems to function just fine otherwise (just can't flash it). ???
Click to expand...

Just checking, you sure you have v1.0 and not v1.1?
 
Are you building the PDF with LaTeX? It would be cool if you could add that LaTeX documentation to github so that people can help the user manual stay up to date. For example, the manual still states that the ramp works by taking 8 steps, but it looks like that has since been increased to 64 steps.
 
barrooze took your advice and heated the bottom and pushed in the pins from the front. Had a good scare when I hooked it backup and the alarm was going ( I had forgotten to hook back up the temperature probe). After adding some more solder I was in business. Thanks again for the advice. Alpha thanks for helping troubleshoot as well I did actually pickup another arduino just in case but didn't need it after all.
 
MrMista said:
Are you building the PDF with LaTeX? It would be cool if you could add that LaTeX documentation to github so that people can help the user manual stay up to date. For example, the manual still states that the ramp works by taking 8 steps, but it looks like that has since been increased to 64 steps.
Click to expand...

I've been taking the easy route, and have just written it in google docs. LaTeX would be a good idea in theory, but it's been 10 years since I last used it (damn, it's been 10 years since I got my masters...) and I'm not sure there are a lot of people who are familiar with it, so I think I'd be pretty much the only one editing anyway. It might be better to use HTML or open document or something more people could use. Maybe I could include the .odt instead? I remember I really liked LaTeX though :)
Yeah, I gotta get around to update the documentation. Been kind of busy lately though.
 
Yea I used LaTeX in my senior thesis for college as well. Its been a while for me too haha. Yea I was just thinking of a way for others to help you out a bit on the documentation!
 
Here's the latest measurements - it has climbed to it's max temp - 85f.

Untitled.jpg
 
atoughram said:
Here's the latest measurements - it has climbed to it's max temp - 85f.
Click to expand...

I'm trying to understand how the ramping programming works. Would this be a pretty accurate profile for your latest measurement?

SP0 = 69F [hold at 69F for 48h approximately]
dh0 = 48
SP1 = 76F [ramp from 69 to 76 over 48h]
dh1 = 48
SP2 = 76F [hold at 76 for 48h]
dh2 = 48
SP3 = 85F [ramp from 76 to 85 over 24h]
dh3 = 24
SP4 = 85F [hold at 85 indefinitely]
dh4 = 0

Is that about right or am I way off on my understanding of how the profiles work?

Thanks!
 
barrooze said:
I'm trying to understand how the ramping programming works. Would this be a pretty accurate profile for your latest measurement?

SP0 = 69F [hold at 69F for 48h approximately]
dh0 = 48
SP1 = 76F [ramp from 69 to 76 over 48h]
dh1 = 48
SP2 = 76F [hold at 76 for 48h]
dh2 = 48
SP3 = 85F [ramp from 76 to 85 over 24h]
dh3 = 24
SP4 = 85F [hold at 85 indefinitely]
dh4 = 0

Is that about right or am I way off on my understanding of how the profiles work?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Here is how it's programmed:

Temp Setpoint Step Duration Select Units:
SP0 68 dh0 84 84 Hours
SP1 68 dh1 48 48 Hours
SP2 75 dh2 48 2 Days
SP3 75 dh3 36 36 Hours
SP4 85 dh4 48 2 Days
SP5 85 dh5 36 36 Hours


Checkout wilconrad's excellent excel spreadsheet - makes programming a snap!

The trick is to separate the ramps and the steady temperature areas. If I want the temp to stay steady for 48 hours, SPx and SPx+1 have to be the same and DHx is 48hrs. If I want it to ramp from 68 to 75 over 24 hours, SPx will be 68, SPx+1 will be 75, and DHx will be 24 hours.
 
atoughram said:
Here is how it's programmed:

Temp Setpoint Step Duration Select Units:
SP0 68 dh0 84 84 Hours
SP1 68 dh1 48 48 Hours
SP2 75 dh2 48 2 Days
SP3 75 dh3 36 36 Hours
SP4 85 dh4 48 2 Days
SP5 85 dh5 36 36 Hours


Checkout wilconrad's excellent excel spreadsheet - makes programming a snap!

The trick is to separate the ramps and the steady temperature areas. If I want the temp to stay steady for 48 hours, SPx and SPx+1 have to be the same and DHx is 48hrs. If I want it to ramp from 68 to 75 over 24 hours, SPx will be 68, SPx+1 will be 75, and DHx will be 24 hours.
Click to expand...

Great! Thank you for the help!
 
atoughram said:
Checkout wilconrad's excellent excel spreadsheet - makes programming a snap!
Click to expand...

Not sure how I missed this before, but that is amazing and would be a great addition to the files included with the new stc firmware. Thanks to everyone!
 
For anyone curious, I've now placed two separate orders on Amazon for the STC-1000 from AGPTek ($21.68 with Prime account). Both orders consisted of two STC's and all received were v1.0 (flashable) hardware.

Not saying that you're guaranteed by any means to get the right hardware from them, but I've had good luck so far!
 
Want to validate I understand this. If I set SP0 to say 38 degrees with a dh0 of 0 and don't set any other profiles or setpoints it will keep the temp within the +/— of the hy setting forever is that correct? I have two stc1000 I want to flash the other one that is currently in use on my keezer. I see there is a th mode seemed like I would have some additional control with the cooling delay with the above described scenario.
 
So now that we have effective temperature profile control how should we use it? I have been searching for days and the best theory I can come up with I will describe below but I can't seem to find much info from reputable sources; feedback is welcome.

My general theory is start in the mid to upper range of the yeasts happy range, (see yeasts directions and adjust accordingly) to ensure a strong start and minimize the lag phase. Holding from 3-15hrs in the range of 20-25C depending on the pitching rate and starter activity. Then drop the temp rather quickly to the lower end of the ideal range or even a degree or two below to prevent self heating and thermal runaway during the exponential growth phase. Holding the low end of the range, 15C for one to four days until exponential growth has past. Then start ramping the temperature slowly up to the top end of the ideal range to protect against stalling and achieve targeted attenuation. During the later part of the stationary phase hold the top end of the ideal range for diacetyl conversion and fermentation completion. Something like a rise from 15C to 20C over 7 days then holding 20C for 3 days. Once FG is confirmed begin cold conditioning to below 5C over two days and transfer away from the yeast.

At this point I personally would transfer to a keg, seal it up and leave it at serving temps for 3-4 days before I sample and start carbonation.
 
Djxtc said:
Want to validate I understand this. If I set SP0 to say 38 degrees with a dh0 of 0 and don't set any other profiles or setpoints it will keep the temp within the +/— of the hy setting forever is that correct? I have two stc1000 I want to flash the other one that is currently in use on my keezer. I see there is a th mode seemed like I would have some additional control with the cooling delay with the above described scenario.
Click to expand...


If all you want to do is hold a constant temp, don't use a profile at all. Select 'th' in the run menu (for thermostat mode) and set the setpoint to where you want it (38, in this case). The controller will function as a standard STC-1000.

Cooling delay is the same in 'th' mode or while running a profile.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Djxtc said:
barrooze took your advice and heated the bottom and pushed in the pins from the front. Had a good scare when I hooked it backup and the alarm was going ( I had forgotten to hook back up the temperature probe). After adding some more solder I was in business. Thanks again for the advice. Alpha thanks for helping troubleshoot as well I did actually pickup another arduino just in case but didn't need it after all.
Click to expand...

I see that you ended up solving your problem but I wanted to post this here in case others are having the same issue. Using the no solder method, as soon as you make your connection to the STC, the USB connection on the PC is lost every single time. My solution for this was to attach the header to the STC first, then plug in USB and start the arduino serial monitor. After that, things would work just fine.
 
The soldering does not look all that bad, but there is a lot of spatter. Probably not all that hard to clean up.
Not great, but I guess QC is not top prio at the chinese manufacturer.
 
Yeah, mostly spatter, but if you look closely, two of the programming pins are bridged with spatter also.
Not a big deal, it still seems to work fine.
 
VDD and VPP/MCLR/RA3 are bridged... He didnt specify if anything was connected to RA3 so it might work just fine. That bridge will have to be cleaned off before programming it though.
 
Got mine flashed yesterday, yay! Everything was super easy to do, although I haven't had much practice soldering, but it all worked out in the end.

Thank you sincerely for your efforts, alphaomega. It's people like you ho make this forum as amazing as it is. :mug:

Now, I just need to find some more uses for this arduino now that I own it. It's much smaller than I was expecting. My dad dropped off a whole bunch of different value resistors, and LED's and all kinds of other little doodads and whoozits to play with and a little peg board to stick everything to as well. :ban: Any good ideas for an electronics noob?
 
atoughram said:
VDD and VPP/MCLR/RA3 are bridged... He didnt specify if anything was connected to RA3 so it might work just fine. That bridge will have to be cleaned off before programming it though.
Click to expand...


It was cleaned and programmed yesterday, so it's all good. Just wanted to show those weary of soldering that even the company that makes these things can suck at soldering.

I've been soldering stuff for years though, so these things are easy for me. It's the surface mount stuff that's a pain in my ar$e.
 
Well my other stc1000 was the version 1.1 so now I'm going to go the DIY brewpi route. Was already looking for another use for the arduino. Wanted to say thanks again to everyone for their help.
 
Not that it's at all ground-breaking at this point, but the v1.00 STC-1000+ just successfully completed a 2 week ramp down from 50 to 35 on my Munich dunkel lager. No issues to report. Will now flash with the v1.03. Thanks again, Alpha!
 
I'm kegging in the next few day and will upgrade to 1.03 myself - but 1.01 was working well for the Saison I just did.
 
Is there any reason to think this sketch won't work for an Arduino Nano? I've got a few sitting around that I've only played with a few times, and since I'll be ordering an STC-1000 in the next couple of days, I've got a great chance to put them to use.

I'm not sure how these connections match up to the Nano, though:

k970o7.jpg


EDIT: Yeah, the pinouts are different... is this table correct?

Pin.....Uno.....Nano
PD0.......3.......D0
5V.......5V......Vcc
GND.....GND......GND
PB4.......8.......B4
PB5.......9.......B5
 
A little update on the places to order: I have gotten 1 about a month ago from ebay (mixtea) that was 1.0, got another one about a week ago from them 1.0. Decided I wanted to do up to 4 independent ferms at 1 time so I ordered 2 more, 1.1. :smack: Just tried the AGPtek $21.68, fingers are crossed!

A few things I did notice in the differences was they used a screw in the back piece that looked like it had a washer behind it, but it was just an odd screw. The 1.1's also did not come with a screen peel on the front. Now if only these companies used accurate pictures...
 
wilconrad said:
I updated the temp profile spreadsheet with 64 step ramping (old copy had 8 step ramping). Link is here
Click to expand...

First. Thanks for creating and uploading the spreadsheet, it really helps with the programming of the STC-1000+

I downloaded the first version and was just about to tweak it to handle the 64-step ramping when I noticed you had already done it :). Perhaps I'm doing something wrong but the chart does not seem to be correct in the new version.

When I put in a simple ramping from say 10 to 40 degrees during 8 hours I get one vector from 10 to 40, not 8 temp increases. Since the STC+ can only change the temp once every full hour is should be 8 steps in 8 hours, 24 in 24 hours etc. The full 64 steps will only be used if the duration is set to 160 hours (2,6 days). If I set it 8 days I see the steps so I guess you split the ramping in 64 parts regardless of the duration of the step?

It's really a minor. The first version was good enough to match the temp profile I get from BeerSmith and know how to program the STC+ but I guess you want the spreadsheet to be correct.

/Granitapan
 
Is there a way to verify the version without cutting the sticker/voiding the warranty?

EDIT: Never mind, I was able to carefully peel back the foil sticker and both are v1.0.

For those who want to know/care, both units were from Lerway Tech via Amazon, had protective plastic on the display and the small screw without the attached washer.
 
KindofBlues71 said:
Is there a way to verify the version without cutting the sticker/voiding the warranty?
Click to expand...

I think someone in this thread mentioned that the 1.1 version they received didn't have the protective plastic film on the LCD. I guess that could have just been a coincidence though.
 
See my edited post above. I don't think we'll ever figure out what the version is, based on little differences like that. My heart sank a little when I saw the word "NEW" printed below the SKU on each box but both were 1.0.

Sent from my KFSOWI using Home Brew mobile app
 

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