Stc-1000 wiring

[PhilUK]

Should work fine. You'll still need to supply the controller with 240v, but the relays can switch any voltage as long as the draw isn't excessive, which shouldn't be an issue with a pc fan and small heating blanket.

Had a change of plan, going to use a simple 60w lightbulb to heat the small insulated compartment of the shed. Cheap, easy to install and available everywhere (until new EU regulations come into play anyway...).

Had some great success quickly testing the plan with the ambient temperature in the compartment rising from 14oC (57oF) to 23oC (73oF) in about 10 minutes.

Will up some photos once the STC arrives and it's wired up.

Cheers,
Phil

 

[jeetaman]

A lot of us just use a "replacement power tool cord" or even cut apart an extension cord. I usually buy larger that I need, so I can cut a few feet off to use to actually wire it.

Here's a basic parts list....

R62-16252-0WS Leviton 15-Amp White Decora Plus Duplex Outlet (as many as needed)
R52-PJ264-00W Leviton White Midway Nylon Wallplate (As many "gangs" (Slots as needed)
AW62632 Husky 9 Ft. 14-3 Power Tool Replacement Cord
B468R CARLON Electrical Wall Box (As many "gangs" as needed)
20511 Halex No. 20511, 3/8 In. Pack of 5 Twin Screw Clamp Connector
STC 1000 Dual stage temperature Controller w/probe

I based mine on Tom's design...His thread is good, I have only the slightest knowledge of doing this stuff. I can switch out a bad wall socket but that's about it. And I really didn't have trouble doing this.

In fact I just wired one up with only 3 gangs (Not an always on) and did it without a diagram.

Hey Revvy, what are the screw clamp connectors used for? Is that what's coming out of the side of the box?

 

[Hang Glider]

answering for Revvy...

strain relief is always a good idea in an electrical situation where a tug on a cord could result in an internal short.

 

[Uppsala9496]

Is it possible to attach a 120mm computer fan so that the fan only runs when the controller tells the freezer to run?

 

[opqdan]

Is it possible to attach a 120mm computer fan so that the fan only runs when the controller tells the freezer to run?

Sure, but a computer fan won't run off of 110V AV, so you'll need an adapter. If you wire up an outlet for "cooling" mode, just wire a second (or don't break the tab and forgo heating) and plug a 12V DC wall wart in.

This is what I do for my fan, but I leave it on all the time, I run a 12V line into the fridge through the same hole as the temp probe. This powers the fan that blows cold air into the draft tower as well as an Arduino I use to keep track of gas pressure and keg capacity (still working on that).

The outlet in the first pic is wired as always on, rather than the cooling/heating split that most people have. I wired the compressor directly to the STC-1000 cooling, and left the heating disconnected.

 

[martyjmc]

Has anyone used this controller for any length of time? I bought a different model and three times as much and it lasted for a year.

 

[opqdan]

Has anyone used this controller for any length of time? I bought a different model and three times as much and it lasted for a year.

They should last longer than that. Without knowing the model, it might be lower quality, or your compressor may be overloading the relay when it kicks on causing it to fail after a while (the compressor probably only uses a few amps when running, but could pull 15 or more when it starts). Try running the compressor through a separate relay rated for a higher current and maybe that will fix the problem.

 

[martyjmc]

Thanks, that is a great idea. I should have known better with the other one because the reviews said they would quit after about a year. I'll try this one. At this price it is worth replacing every year. I just thought maybe someone had used one for an extended time.

 

[JuanMoore]

Thanks, that is a great idea. I should have known better with the other one because the reviews said they would quit after about a year. I'll try this one. At this price it is worth replacing every year. I just thought maybe someone had used one for an extended time.

I have several, and the oldest has been going strong for just shy of 4 years now. The other ones have all been working for over 2 years.

 

[martyjmc]

I have several, and the oldest has been going strong for just shy of 4 years now. The other ones have all been working for over 2 years.

Thanks! That's the info I needed to make me feel better about my purchase. I am thinking of getting a second one for keg temp control before the price goes up. This one is for fermentation freezer kit.

 

[Larzean]

Question for you guys... I have looked thru this thread and the schematics as well as the write up in the jan 2012 BYO. In the BYO write up there is a 10amp fuse. Rather than a fuse would it be possible to use a breaker? Either way, is this NEEDED?

Regardless as I don't know a ton about electrical before I close mine up and power it on I'm going to have my neighbor who is a handy man check my work against the schematic(s) to make sure it's all good!

 

[hellbent3]

[bytor2012
Make sure you purchased the correct STC-1000, marked 110VAC. If it is marked 220VAC or 12V, its not the right one.[/QUOTE]

what is the difference?? I purchased a 220v and live in aussie, can it be used at all??

 

[opqdan]

what is the difference?? I purchased a 220v can it be used at all??

It can't be used from a 110V supply (normal household voltage in the US and Canada). You probably have 220v somewhere in your home (ovens and clothes dryers commonly use them), or you could run another, but you'd be way better off buying the correct STC-1000. Check your country though, some do use 220V mains.

Also, read up a bit on what it is you'll be doing, the difference between 110VAC, 220VAC, and 12VDC is something you should definitely know before you touch a wire of any voltage. Electricity at these levels is very dangerous, and wiring something incorrectly will lead to equipment failure at best, and death at worst.

This is a simple project, but that doesn't mean it can be done without a consideration for safety. fortunately, this stuff is easy to learn and once you know it, it will open up a whole world of DIY projects.

 

[JuanMoore]

Pretty sure Australia runs 220/240V for standard wall outlets, so it should work just fine for you.

 

[opqdan]

Pretty sure Australia runs 220/240V for standard wall outlets, so it should work just fine for you.

Doh! I missed where he said he was an Aussie.

 

[Rebeld27]

So, I wired up my STC -1000, plugged it in to test it and the unit worked, but the plug to run the fridge and heater didnt. I double checked the wiring with the schematics and video on Youtube...wired correctly. Any ideas? Bad STC board?

 

[day_trippr]

Have to say by observation over the last couple of years, most ST-1K issues are user induced.

Post a good picture of your wiring. Operative word: good.

Cheers!

 

[Rebeld27]

I figured it out. It was the delay. What are the optimal settings for a ferm. Chamber besided the temp (F1)

 

[JuanMoore]

I figured it out. It was the delay. What are the optimal settings for a ferm. Chamber besided the temp (F1)

F2 depends on where your probe placement is, and how tight you want the control to be. I have mine set to 0.4° IIRC. F3, the compressor delay, should be set to the max IMO, which is 10 min. F4 is to adjust the temperature reading if it's not calibrated correctly. From what I gather, most of them seem to be very accurate out of the box, and don't require any change to F4 unless you're extending the probe wires greatly.

 

[hellbent3]

It can't be used from a 110V supply (normal household voltage in the US and Canada). You probably have 220v somewhere in your home (ovens and clothes dryers commonly use them), or you could run another, but you'd be way better off buying the correct STC-1000. Check your country though, some do use 220V mains.

Also, read up a bit on what it is you'll be doing, the difference between 110VAC, 220VAC, and 12VDC is something you should definitely know before you touch a wire of any voltage. Electricity at these levels is very dangerous, and wiring something incorrectly will lead to equipment failure at best, and death at worst.

This is a simple project, but that doesn't mean it can be done without a consideration for safety. fortunately, this stuff is easy to learn and once you know it, it will open up a whole world of DIY projects.

thanks for your reply mate, I have wired up 2 STC1000's before but both were for cooling only and had no problem with them, but they were the 110 VAC variety. I wanted one for heating/cooling and I bought this one off EB without checking VAC. Thanks again

 

[hellbent3]

Pretty sure Australia runs 220/240V for standard wall outlets, so it should work just fine for you.

Thanks for your help mate. appreciated.

 

[Rebeld27]

F2 depends on where your probe placement is, and how tight you want the control to be. I have mine set to 0.4° IIRC. F3, the compressor delay, should be set to the max IMO, which is 10 min. F4 is to adjust the temperature reading if it's not calibrated correctly. From what I gather, most of them seem to be very accurate out of the box, and don't require any change to F4 unless you're extending the probe wires greatly.

Thanks for the input/help.

 

[scottycope]

Question for you guys... I have looked thru this thread and the schematics as well as the write up in the jan 2012 BYO. In the BYO write up there is a 10amp fuse. Rather than a fuse would it be possible to use a breaker? Either way, is this NEEDED?

Regardless as I don't know a ton about electrical before I close mine up and power it on I'm going to have my neighbor who is a handy man check my work against the schematic(s) to make sure it's all good!

As Larzean asked, I, too, read this entire thread and the Jan 2012 BYO article. The only place I see any mention of fuses is in the article but I did not see anything indicating why it is used. There is no mention of a fuse in this thread. What, exactly, is the purpose of the fuse? Is it needed? Will I run into issues with using a fuse if i'm using my control to power my keezer, a reptile heating pad and a fan that is always on?

I think I understand the wiring part but am looking for clarification on the why of the fuse.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

Thanks!

 

[thehopbandit]

As Larzean asked, I, too, read this entire thread and the Jan 2012 BYO article. The only place I see any mention of fuses is in the article but I did not see anything indicating why it is used. There is no mention of a fuse in this thread. What, exactly, is the purpose of the fuse? Is it needed? Will I run into issues with using a fuse if i'm using my control to power my keezer, a reptile heating pad and a fan that is always on?



I think I understand the wiring part but am looking for clarification on the why of the fuse.



Can anyone shed some light on this?



Thanks!

The inline fuse is added as an extra protection for the STC unit. If there is too much current being drawn from the outlets, the inline fuse will blow, cutting power to the STC. If that fuse wasn't there, there is a potential for the temp controller to overheat and melt. I have heard the STC may have its own fuse, but hey, why not be extra careful. It's an extra dollar or two.

 

[Kmcogar]

Would this temp controller work just the same? It uses Fahrenheit instead of Celsius, which is convenient



Docooler 10A 110V Digital Temperature Controller Thermocouple -58~194 Fahrenheit with Sensor http://amzn.com/B00F05UI8O

 

[coolharry]

Would this temp controller work just the same? It uses Fahrenheit instead of Celsius, which is convenient



Docooler 10A 110V Digital Temperature Controller Thermocouple -58~194 Fahrenheit with Sensor http://amzn.com/B00F05UI8O

Its similar, but won't be the same as it only has one control. Heat OR cool, not heat AND cool.

 

[Kmcogar]

Its similar, but won't be the same as it only has one control. Heat OR cool, not heat AND cool.

Ahhh I see. Thank you

 

[Kmcogar]

I was looking at this product again. It definitely says heat AND cool...

 

[thehopbandit]

I was looking at this product again. It definitely says heat AND cool...

Honestly, just go with the STC-1000. It's tried and true and used by many people. Celsius shouldn't be a problem. I just made a small conversion chart that I keep right by it.

 

[Kmcogar]

True