Stc-1000 wiring

[JuanMoore]

Ah, I didn't know that. How long is the delay?

See my edit above. IIRC factory setting is 3 min.

 

[Hang Glider]

I don't have the STC (using the love TSS2) but with any controller -

use a couple of lamps - and have some warm water and ice water - then move the probe from one to the other and see if the lamps come on appropriately - that way you're not hard-cycling your compressor during the test/troubleshoot phase.

 

[weirdboy]

I don't have the STC (using the love TSS2) but with any controller -

use a couple of lamps - and have some warm water and ice water - then move the probe from one to the other and see if the lamps come on appropriately - that way you're not hard-cycling your compressor during the test/troubleshoot phase.

Was this advice directed at me? Of course I was using a lamp to test it.

 

[catmandu1999]

Ah, I didn't know that. How long is the delay?

As Bugs Bunny would say, "What a Maroon!"

I, too, was a ******* today. Finally figured out the bloken engrish of the instructions, and waited the required 3 mins, heard a click, saw a light, got power to the plug! All is well, hope that is your only problem as well.

 

[weirdboy]

As Bugs Bunny would say, "What a Maroon!"

I, too, was a ******* today. Finally figured out the bloken engrish of the instructions, and waited the required 3 mins, heard a click, saw a light, got power to the plug! All is well, hope that is your only problem as well.

Yeah, that was the issue. I tested it again after finding that out and it worked like a charm. Now I feel stupid for wasting all that time trying to fix a problem that didn't exist.

 

[Spinrathen]

subbed.

 

[jman]

Mine is wired up to have one set of sockets always on, so I'm not tying up my wall socket all the time. I can run the vacuum if I want. Then one 2-sided outlet for heater and one 2-sided outlet for cooling.

this diagram is excellent and extremely helpful, as i plan on giving both the hot side and cold side their own set of sockets, as well as an 'aways on' set of sockets. one question though:
how could i add a switch to ONE of the 'always on' sockets? i'd like to have some rope lighting in my fermentation chamber that i can turn on with an external switch.

at the very least, i know i need to break the plate between hots on the 'always on' set of sockets, i'm just not positive whatelse needs to be done to add the switch.

anyone have a diagram for this addition? is this possible?

 

[Hang Glider]

You would break it on the rope light, not on this schematic. Break ONE leg of the rope light with a switch.

 

[jrodder]

Stupid question, but in an install like this, you are plugging in the chest freezer to the cooling outlet, and the lamp/heating to the hot right? I was thinking about trying to mount it all internally and have the compressor just run right from the STC, and then heat from an outlet, or maybe even wire in a wall mounted light socket directly from the inside.

 

[LowNotes]

Stupid question time: Does this automatically cycle back-and-forth between heating/cooling depending on the temp the probe is exposed to, or does it requier a manual switch to change it back and forth? Seems like it would be stupid and not worth it if it ISN'T automatic...and I am 99% sure that is exaclty what was being discussed with the 3 minute delay...but I didn't see it explicitly stated (admittedly I only read piecs of the thread) and the descriptions online are terribly written. I am hoping this is "set-it and forget-it", as I might actually start making plans to make one...but if it doesn't work automatically it is definitely not going to work for me.

 

[jerryk]

Stupid question time: Does this automatically cycle back-and-forth between heating/cooling depending on the temp the probe is exposed to, or does it requier a manual switch to change it back and forth? Seems like it would be stupid and not worth it if it ISN'T automatic...and I am 99% sure that is exaclty what was being discussed with the 3 minute delay...but I didn't see it explicitly stated (admittedly I only read piecs of the thread) and the descriptions online are terribly written. I am hoping this is "set-it and forget-it", as I might actually start making plans to make one...but if it doesn't work automatically it is definitely not going to work for me.

It is automatic. But I would suggest a longer delay just to save your compressor. I insulate and strap the temp probe to the side of what I am fermenting. In my keezer I have the probe in a 8oz water bottle filed with vodka just in case it did go below freezing for to long. I also don't have heat in my keezer. I hope this helps.

 

[JuanMoore]

Stupid question time: Does this automatically cycle back-and-forth between heating/cooling depending on the temp the probe is exposed to, or does it requier a manual switch to change it back and forth? Seems like it would be stupid and not worth it if it ISN'T automatic...and I am 99% sure that is exaclty what was being discussed with the 3 minute delay...but I didn't see it explicitly stated (admittedly I only read piecs of the thread) and the descriptions online are terribly written. I am hoping this is "set-it and forget-it", as I might actually start making plans to make one...but if it doesn't work automatically it is definitely not going to work for me.

It controls heating and cooling simultaneously, so there's no need to switch between heating mode and cooling mode or anything like that. This has nothing to do with the delay feature though, which AFAIK is only related to the cooling side. The delay simply prevents the refrigerator compressor from short cycling by making sure there's a minimum time between when it was last running and when it's able to turn on again. As mentioned, it's usually best to max the delay setting out at 10 min.

 

[LowNotes]

Thanks for the response everyone, sounds like this should be just what I need...and I have until enxt winter to get it put together!

 

[fizgig]

Thanks for the parts list and diagrams folks, worked like a charm.

 

[yeastside]

Using Revvy's diagram, would it be possible (and safe) to omit the heating outlet from the wiring? I am going to use my temp controller in my keezer, so I only need the cooling and always-on fan outlets. Does anyone have a diagram that would fit my needs?

Thanks!

Edit: Ok guys, this is a diagram that I just put together based on Revvy's with the heating outlet removed. Does this look correct?

 

[fizgig]

Yes, that will work.

 

[JUST_BREW_IT]

I don't have the STC (using the love TSS2) but with any controller -

use a couple of lamps - and have some warm water and ice water - then move the probe from one to the other and see if the lamps come on appropriately - that way you're not hard-cycling your compressor during the test/troubleshoot phase.

Good piece of advice here

 

[toestothesun]

Using Revvy's diagram should I wire directly to the screws of the outlets or use the holes underneath? Also, wherever same color wires cross and there is not a "squiggle" should I use wire connectors there? Is it ok to have two sets of wires going to the same outlet terminal?

Thanks in advance

 

[JuanMoore]

Using Revvy's diagram should I wire directly to the screws of the outlets or use the holes underneath? Also, wherever same color wires cross and there is not a "squiggle" should I use wire connectors there? Is it ok to have two sets of wires going to the same outlet terminal?

Thanks in advance

In order:
I was taught to side wire all outlets (wrap around the screws) because it's a more secure connection. After seeing many many loose backwired outlets doing remodeling, and very few loose side wired, I suggest side wiring. Back wired aluminum wires actually started a fire that burned a condo I was living in to e ground. That had more to do with the aluminum wiring than how they were connected though.

Yes.

If you backwire the outlet (use the holes instead of wrapping around the screw), and the wires are the same size, then you can connect two of them to the same outlet terminal. Otherwise you'll need to connect them together with a pigtail, and then connect the pigtail wire to the terminal.

 

[toestothesun]

Thanks Juan, appreciate it.

 

[toestothesun]

In order:
I was taught to side wire all outlets (wrap around the screws) because it's a more secure connection. After seeing many many loose backwired outlets doing remodeling, and very few loose side wired, I suggest side wiring. Back wired aluminum wires actually started a fire that burned a condo I was living in to e ground. That had more to do with the aluminum wiring than how they were connected though.

Yes.

If you backwire the outlet (use the holes instead of wrapping around the screw), and the wires are the same size, then you can connect two of them to the same outlet terminal. Otherwise you'll need to connect them together with a pigtail, and then connect the pigtail wire to the terminal.

Juan, please excuse my ignorance but what exactly do you mean by pig tailing before connecting to the terminal? Is this simply wrapping the two ends of wires together? If this is what you're referring to, I did this and the wire becomes too thick to tighten down with the screw. I'm using 14 gauge power cord wire. Thanks bud

 

[E_Marquez]

Juan, please excuse my ignorance but what exactly do you mean by pig tailing before connecting to the terminal? Is this simply wrapping the two ends of wires together? If this is what you're referring to, I did this and the wire becomes too thick to tighten down with the screw. I'm using 14 gauge power cord wire. Thanks bud

The pig tail is using a short section of wire to connect a group of wires together at one end of the short section, then use the other end for the terminal.

 

[JuanMoore]

Juan, please excuse my ignorance but what exactly do you mean by pig tailing before connecting to the terminal? Is this simply wrapping the two ends of wires together? If this is what you're referring to, I did this and the wire becomes too thick to tighten down with the screw. I'm using 14 gauge power cord wire. Thanks bud

Pigtailing is taking two or more wires, and connecting them together along with a short piece of wire (the pigtail) using a wire nut. You can then connect the pigtail to whatever terminal or connection you wanted the multiple wires to connect to.

Edit: Hah! I'm a bit too slow this morning.

 

[toestothesun]

So will my red wire (14 gauge - believe) wire nuts work or will I have to get a different size?

 

[JuanMoore]

So will my red wire (14 gauge - believe) wire nuts work or will I have to get a different size?

As long as your wire is at least 14 ga, then red wire nuts will work fine.

 

[schmidtwit]

Great thread here guys, the diagrams are super helpful. I needed to temp control a mini fridge that I use for fermenting. Would love to see some picks of what you all do with the boxes once wired up. Mount them to the fridge/freezer, mount to a wall, leave em loose?

 

[E_Marquez]

Great thread here guys, the diagrams are super helpful. I needed to temp control a mini fridge that I use for fermenting. Would love to see some picks of what you all do with the boxes once wired up. Mount them to the fridge/freezer, mount to a wall, leave em loose?

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/another-fermentation-chamber-build-419917/

I mounted the STC-1000 and the receptacle in the lid collar

 

[toestothesun]

Got mine successfully wired up - I think

Thanks JuanMoore, Marquez and others.

 

[PhilUK]

Hey guys,

I'm thinking of using an STC1000 (240v/12V) in the UK to control the temperature of an insulated area of my shed for fermentation.

Can the relays be used to switch a 12V supply? I am thinking of using a 12V PC fan and a 12V heater blanket to control the temperature of the area. The aim eventually would be to have these run from a small scale solar panel feeding into a car battery.

I know this may not be the cheapest or easiest solution but what do you all think? I'm in it for the learning experience and challenge as well! Would it be better to simply run a solution from the mains?

Cheers,
Phil

 

[JuanMoore]

Hey guys,

I'm thinking of using an STC1000 (240v/12V) in the UK to control the temperature of an insulated area of my shed for fermentation.

Can the relays be used to switch a 12V supply? I am thinking of using a 12V PC fan and a 12V heater blanket to control the temperature of the area. The aim eventually would be to have these run from a small scale solar panel feeding into a car battery.

I know this may not be the cheapest or easiest solution but what do you all think? I'm in it for the learning experience and challenge as well! Would it be better to simply run a solution from the mains?

Cheers,
Phil

Should work fine. You'll still need to supply the controller with 240v, but the relays can switch any voltage as long as the draw isn't excessive, which shouldn't be an issue with a pc fan and small heating blanket.