STC 1000 "Ebay" Temperature Controller Build

[big_len]

Nice probe! LOL. Love the shrink wrap. I may have to give that try. Definitely cheaper to roll your own.

I'd give it a go, with the costs involved there really is nothing to lose.


The shrink wrap is the adhesive lined stuff - excellent strain relief and somewhat water-proof. I bought a kit of different sizes a long time ago and, since I only use it in special cases, it has lasted for ages

 

[IslandLizard]

There was some agreement that the best method is to tape the probe to the side of your fermenter. This was a compromise between air temps (quick to change) and wort temps (slow to change).

I put my standard factory probe against the outside of the carboy glass, about in the middle, under a 3" square piece of 1/4"-3/8" thick dense packing foam, which has an additional double layer of aluminium foil plus a layer of 1/8" firm cardboard over it. A bungee cord or better yet, a string tied around keeps it all firmly in place.

The trick is to find the optimal placement, where the temperature of the beer will remain at the same temperature as set in the controller, plus or minus a known offset if there is one, while keeping fluctuations and lag to a minimum.

Putting a thermowell in the beer, in the middle of the fermentor may not provide optimum temp control. There will be a significant lag, as cooling and heating is applied to the fermentor's walls.

I really like the small 10k eBay NTCs as shown in a previous post. Beats the factory probe. Time to experiment! maybe a bridge or a matrix gives better results.

 

[big_len]

Putting a thermowell in the beer, in the middle of the fermentor may not provide optimum temp control. There will be a significant lag, as cooling and heating is applied to the fermentor's walls.

This is indeed true. The ideal place to put the temperature sensor, if it's going into the beer, is at the 70% radius/diameter in my opinion. Then, the volume of beer inside and outside the sensor is the same.

I really like the small 10k eBay NTCs as shown in a previous post. Beats the factory probe. Time to experiment! maybe a bridge or a matrix gives better results.

Using the STC unit pretty much means there isn't much room for experimentation. You have to be sure to get a thermistor with those exact specs (10k, 3435) but you have total flexibility with how you package it.

I am currently working on a PIC-based system because of this and a few other reasons. It's up and running great on a breadboard, I'm just working on finishing touches like noise filtering and stability. I'll probably do a build thread when it becomes a more finished project.

 

[NinjaMedic]

Thanks for this super simple wiring diagram...



Made it easy...

Where did you get this box? I couldn't find anything that fit this well.


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[ReddHead]

Where did you get this box? I couldn't find anything that fit this well.


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I got one at Lowes.

 

[jimjohson]

fwiw I bought a project box from radio shack.

 

[ReddHead]

Here you go

http://www.lowes.com/pd_10029-223-E...=1&currentURL=?Ntt=4%22+electr+box&facetInfo=

 

[NinjaMedic]

Here you go

http://www.lowes.com/pd_10029-223-E...=1&currentURL=?Ntt=4%22+electr+box&facetInfo=

Perfect. Thanks!


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[Lumpyyyyy]

Anyone have any thoughts on daisy chaining multiple of these together? I want to do 3 different vessels with (edit)three controller.

 

[day_trippr]

Anyone have any thoughts on daisy chaining multiple of these together? I want to do 3 different vessels with one controller.

Simultaneously?
Can't do that with this controller...

Cheers!

 

[Lumpyyyyy]

Simultaneously?
Can't do that with this controller...

Cheers!

With 3 controllers. I'm no electrical engineer (mechanical actually), so I could use someone to explain why this wouldn't work. Just drew this up in Vizio quickly to demonstrate what I was looking for.

 

[raouliii]

You're simply powering up three individual units from the same supply. No problem, as long as the power source can handle the combined loads.

Is that what you meant by daisy chaining? What would be the intent? Three separate fermentation chambers or three carboys in one chamber?

 

[day_trippr]

With 3 controllers.

Yeah, I noticed you changed your original post from one to three, after I responded. Quoting my response anyway seems lame.

I'm no electrical engineer (mechanical actually), so I could use someone to explain why this wouldn't work. Just drew this up in Vizio quickly to demonstrate what I was looking for.

Did you find it?

Cheers!

 

[Lumpyyyyy]

You're simply powering up three individual units from the same supply. No problem, as long as the power source can handle the combined loads.



Is that what you meant by daisy chaining? What would be the intent? Three separate fermentation chambers or three carboys in one chamber?

I saw someone's as inspiration. Can't remember who but I'm gonna use a chest freezer to control the coldest temp fermentation and have ferm wraps on all the others. Dual stage for all of them is overkill but the controllers are so cheap so who cares.


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[Lumpyyyyy]

Yeah, I noticed you changed your original post from one to three, after I responded. Quoting my response anyway seems lame

I made it clear that I edited it. It wasn't to make you seem dumb. I didn't want others to reply to my comment.


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[day_trippr]

I made it clear that I edited it. It wasn't to make you seem dumb. I didn't want others to reply to my comment.

And quoted anyway. Whatever.

Be careful not to overload whatever you're plugging that into. You're not likely going to find a 30A outlet...

 

[Lumpyyyyy]

Unlikely to use 30 amps as the cooling is the same device for all 3 and the only 2 will use heat. More than likely will stay near 10A anyways.


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[BeerGrylls]

If you want better answers you should be more clear about what you're asking. The original question was to vague!

 

[raouliii]

.... I'm gonna use a chest freezer to control the coldest temp fermentation and have ferm wraps on all the others. Dual stage for all of them is overkill but the controllers are so cheap so who cares.
...

Unlikely to use 30 amps as the cooling is the same device for all 3 and the only 2 will use heat. More than likely will stay near 10A anyways. ....

Just keep in mind that it will be fairly inefficient in operation from an electricity usage stand point. The internal heat source will likely cycle the compressor almost constantly. Cold crashing one batch while maintaining fermentation temperatures in the others may not even be possible.

 

[Lumpyyyyy]

Just keep in mind that it will be fairly inefficient in operation from an electricity usage stand point. The internal heat source will likely cycle the compressor almost constantly. Cold crashing one batch while maintaining fermentation temperatures in the others may not even be possible.

Someone on the forums has already accomplished it. I'd give them credit if I could remember who.


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[Lumpyyyyy]

If you want better answers you should be more clear about what you're asking. The original question was to vague!

Question really is: How can I build a system that can control 3 (or more?) fermentation vessels in one chamber?

I don't think it's necessary to build a dedicated vessel for each one I want to control so I'm trying to figure out a good solution.


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[thern001]

I just wired up a 220v stc1000 I bought two years ago and it is turning my light on and off even though I live in the USA. Can somebody help me and explain why this could be happening and is it safe to use on my fridge

 

[tom_hampton]

Someone on the forum has already accomplished it. I'd give them credit if I could remember who.


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I'm probably not who you are referring to, but I run 4 fermentations in my ferm chamber. I keep the room at 48f. I keep one layer of reflectix insulation around the outside and can maintain approximately 70f fermentation temps. A second layer will get me another 20f delta, when necessary.

I use 40watt heaters taped to the outside of the vessels.

If you are using a chest freezer they have a Cooling capacity around 900 btu/hr. This varies with size, but still, it's only about 250 watts of continuous cooling. So, 3 fermentations will definitely be fighting the compressor to some degree.

 

[Huaco]

Someone on the forums has already accomplished it. I'd give them credit if I could remember who.


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That would be me.
See link in my sig line.

 

[raouliii]

I just wired up a 220v stc1000 I bought two years ago and it is turning my light on and off even though I live in the USA. Can somebody help me and explain why this could be happening and is it safe to use on my fridge

If you're saying that you wired up a 220v version to 110v then I may be able to shed some light.

The internal transformer of the 110v version outputs a nominal 9v.
The internal transformer of the 220v version outputs a nominal 10v.
The relays for both versions are 12VDC with a pickup (must operate) voltage of 9v and a dropout (must release) voltage of 1.2v.

Relay operation between the pickup and dropout voltage can be inconsistent and should be avoided in design and operation.

If 110v is applied to the 220v transformer, approximately 5v will result. 5v is likely enough to power the integrated circuits and led's in the controller but may not be enough to confidently switch and hold the relays in position.

Bottom line? It might work. But, if the relays do not work consistently, and chatter, it may harm the compressor of the fridge.

 

[alien]

Lowest price EVER for the STC-1000 on Amazon: $17.15 !!

Plus, how to reprogram it with upgraded software: http://hackaday.com/2014/03/15/temperature-controller-gets-open-source-firmware-upgrade/

 

[thern001]

If you're saying that you wired up a 220v version to 110v then I may be able to shed some light.

The internal transformer of the 110v version outputs a nominal 9v.
The internal transformer of the 220v version outputs a nominal 10v.
The relays for both versions are 12VDC with a pickup (must operate) voltage of 9v and a dropout (must release) voltage of 1.2v.

Relay operation between the pickup and dropout voltage can be inconsistent and should be avoided in design and operation.

If 110v is applied to the 220v transformer, approximately 5v will result. 5v is likely enough to power the integrated circuits and led's in the controller but may not be enough to confidently switch and hold the relays in position.

Bottom line? It might work. But, if the relays do not work consistently, and chatter, it may harm the compressor of the fridge.

thank you very much for the explanation. I did wire it up to try it out while I wait for my new 110v controller. It seems to be working fine the fridge does turn on and off at the correct set points and it doesn't seem to stop in between. I will keep this in mind though and use the 220v controller for something else maybe for heating up my Florida Weisse sour mash.

 

[glugglug]

I have my temp probe between some foam insulation and my fermenter. My stc1000 reads 17.1, but the thermometer on the carboy reads 66F. How do I change the stc to read 18.8?


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[Surly]

I just completed my build and am about to set it up and run some test cycles. Thanks for the thread.

I do have a question that may have been answered but a search did not spot it out for me.

How long should I set the compressor delay between cycles? Do I just pick a number of minutes and call it good to go?

I am using a refrigerator and have a 15 gallon conical within it.

Thanks

 

[JuanMoore]

I have my temp probe between some foam insulation and my fermenter. My stc1000 reads 17.1, but the thermometer on the carboy reads 66F. How do I change the stc to read 18.8?


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It's the F4 setting, and IIRC you'd set it to +1.7 to get it to read 1.7° higher. Before you do that though, your controller might not be as far off as you think. Those stick on thermometers are notoriously inaccurate, and the STC-1000 are usually calibrated really well right out of the box. If I were you I'd calibrate it against ice water rather than against a thermometer of unknown accuracy. Make a slurry of mostly crushed ice with a little water, stick the STC-1000 probe in it, and wait for it to reach a steady temperature reading. If it doesn't read 0.0°, adjust the F4 setting accordingly.

I just completed my build and am about to set it up and run some test cycles. Thanks for the thread.

I do have a question that may have been answered but a search did not spot it out for me.

How long should I set the compressor delay between cycles? Do I just pick a number of minutes and call it good to go?

I am using a refrigerator and have a 15 gallon conical within it.

Thanks

IMHO it should be maxed it out at 10 min. An occasional 10 min delay in the fridge coming on won't hurt anything, but no delay or a short delay could kill your compressor. For just testing it out you might want to set it to 0 or 1 so you don't have to wait so long to see if it's working, but max it out once you're ready to start using it.

 

[alien]

STC-1000 has gone down again to $17.04, which is a record low as far as I am concerned. Free shipping with Amazon Prime or $35 order.

 

[ja09]

STC-1000 has gone down again to $17.04, which is a record low as far as I am concerned. Free shipping with Amazon Prime or $35 order.

Wow. $16.65 on my screen. Just ordered another one. Amazon Prime is amazing and worth every penny IMO. Thanks for the heads up

 

[pricelessbrewing]

so i'm looking to hook one of these up to an old chest freezer I picked up from my gf parents garage for free.

Please correct any errors in this.
Equipment:
1 stc-1000 controller
2 or three duplex wall outlets
Project box or wall box or some sort of enclosure.

Now questions.
some builds list fuses, are they necessary or just the usual paranoia with anything involving wiring?
Do these all use terminal screws for the connections?
Build project box following one of the various diagrams
Just plug the freezer into the "cooling" outlet, and a small lamp in a box/coffeetin/w.e into the "heating" Outlet and set the temps in the stc? Is that really it?

Below are the pics of the back of the freezer. Just to make sure it's suitable. 5A at 115V. sorry it's upside down

 

[BeerGrylls]

Now questions.
some builds list fuses, are they necessary or just the usual paranoia with anything involving wiring?
Do these all use terminal screws for the connections?
Build project box following one of the various diagrams
Just plug the freezer into the "cooling" outlet, and a small lamp in a box/coffeetin/w.e into the "heating" Outlet and set the temps in the stc? Is that really it?

Below are the pics of the back of the freezer. Just to make sure it's suitable. 5A at 115V. sorry it's upside down

1. Fuses aren't for 'paranoia', and they also aren't for when things are working perfectly. However, it's certainly useful for when your freezer or heat source malfunctions and draws more current than the STC can handle but less than will trip your mains breaker. Your choice, but I'm not a fan of electrical fires, personally.
2. Yes many of us just use wire nuts for all junctions.
3. Yes it's that simple.

Also, 5A on the fridge is fine, the STC is rated to 10A. Pardon my snark about the fuse thing, but think of what you're risking for literally a couple dollars in parts.

 

[sdgenxr]

If you guys are looking for a heat/cool temp controller in degrees Fahrenheit, they found one over here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/eb...roller-build-163849/index405.html#post6024764

 

[Misplaced_Canuck]

[Never mind, replied to old post unknowingly.]

MC

 

[Smellyglove]

Here are my two builds. The two first pics shows a fermentation fridge. I've added a powercon outlet for my heating belt, so I can remove the belt when not needed, like cold crashing.

The last pic is the lagering fridge, I don't need heat in there so it's just the stc controlling the compressor.

I just need to find a way to insulate the back of the stc which is in the ferm fridge so it doesn't corrode in the long run.

 

[sdgenxr]

For those who are considering the heat and cool Fahrenheit controller, here is a simplified wiring diagram to follow:

 

[RichardMNixon]

Here is my wiring diagram:

For the wire nuts splicing three lines into one, does the one line need to be a higher gauge than the ones leading into it or is it fine to be the same?

 

[sdgenxr]

For the wire nuts splicing three lines into one, does the one line need to be a higher gauge than the ones leading into it or is it fine to be the same?

Not really. Since the controller will only turn on the heat or cool individually, then you only need wire large enough to handle the greatest load. The amount of power that the controller is pulling will have little affect.