STC 1000 "Ebay" Temperature Controller Build

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I'm no expert but this one would probably work. It is AC input and AC output. The in and out voltages seem to line up with what you need. The Amp rating is CRAZY high, but you can use it anyway. You just don't want one that is UNDER rated. Poke around Amazon a little and see if there are any AC-AC SSR's with a rating of like 20 amps or so... Make sure to use thermal paste made for heat sinks when installing the SSR to it's heat sink.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LTIPGS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Thanks Huaco.. will probably be wiring in something like that when i get around to rebuilding it..

Another question.. for the guys who are using light bulbs as a heat source.. aren't you concerned about too much light getting through the bucket/blanket? Seem like a pretty direct light source to contend with..
 
Nope... I have used the bulb-in-a-can method before. It works. Incandescent light is harmless to yeast. You need to keep UV light away from them.
 
Huaco - I loved you in Sons of Anarchy. :D

Haha... thanks! Never seen the show actually, but judging by the Google image search, it looks like it could be a rough one! I dig the beards though...


Anyway, back to topic:

These things DO have audible alarms! I found that out last night. I had my new multi-temp control box powered up for the first time, but without temp sensors... The power was on about 3 seconds and then all hell broke loose! Scared the crap out of me actually... (well, not literally) it sounded like a hundred finger nails on chalk boards! I guess the alarm is for failures, not high-low temps...
 
Another noob question.. I'm using one of these with a bucket heater.. if I use a GFCI outlet in my project box, will that help me not electrocute myself?

EDIT: I don't want to always have to use this on a GFCI protected circuit
 
Another noob question.. I'm using one of these with a bucket heater.. if I use a GFCI outlet in my project box, will that help me not electrocute myself?
GFCI outlets can be problematic at times and I wouldn't suggest one unless you are going to be using it around water. This application really doesn't call for that.
 
GFCI outlets can be problematic at times and I wouldn't suggest one unless you are going to be using it around water. This application really doesn't call for that.

Yeah, I'm using it on a bucket heater so I want to reduce my chances of getting shocked (or worse). I'll probably follow Revvys schematic in the first post but swap out the "heat" outlet with a GFCI. I'm pretty sure that's the right move but was hoping for some additional views on it.
 
Yeah, I'm using it on a bucket heater so I want to reduce my chances of getting shocked (or worse). I'll probably follow Revvys schematic in the first post but swap out the "heat" outlet with a GFCI. I'm pretty sure that's the right move but was hoping for some additional views on it.
Well, if you are using it around water then it is an appropriate use.
 
ilikeguns said:
Yeah, I'm using it on a bucket heater so I want to reduce my chances of getting shocked (or worse). I'll probably follow Revvys schematic in the first post but swap out the "heat" outlet with a GFCI. I'm pretty sure that's the right move but was hoping for some additional views on it.

You can buy power cords at big box stores like lowes, with GFCI built in. Then you can use a normal outlet (smaller) in the box. I know they have extension coords that way, but I believe power cords too. This would be a safer alternative because your entire project is protected, not just the items plugged into the outlet on your controller.
 
So this controller turns power off to heater or fridge? But isn't it bad to plug/unplug/plug a fridge in to short of time. Bad for compressor I thought? Anyone cooked a compressor using this?
 
Just a heads up i went to good will the other day and found a bunch of old computer cords for a $1 each cut the end off and its alot cheaper than buying them at HD or Lowes.
 
Wow thanks for the quick response. This'll be in the mail ASAP. Other quick question is what is the difference that the USA seller is selling his for 200$ more then the china one? Comes with a free old fashioned or something?
 
You can buy power cords at big box stores like lowes, with GFCI built in. Then you can use a normal outlet (smaller) in the box. I know they have extension coords that way, but I believe power cords too. This would be a safer alternative because your entire project is protected, not just the items plugged into the outlet on your controller.

Thanks for the heads up, for $13 I got a GFCI outlet that plugs into a standard outlet. Now i'm not married to where i can use it.
 
Built this yesterday. Wanted to go cheap so I used a cooler that has been gathering dust in my garage as a project box. Used an old microwave power cord for my power supply. Scavenged another power cord from something I don't remember anymore and cut it up for my wiring. Some leftover liquid nail to help seal the deal. And also used leftover bottle caps to mark my heating and cooling outlets. Spent under $4. Awesome day.

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I just happened to be working on this yesterday also. I had ordered the STC-1000 a couple months ago in preparation for my keezer build, but also had a lot of spare stuff sitting around the house.

Since I was using what I had on hand, I went with the GFCI outlet and a project box. I used a PC power cable and wiring from a ceiling fan kit.

display_powered_on_sized.jpg


gcfi_outlet_sized.jpg


inside_wiring_sized.jpg
 
So I ordered the STC-1000. I got an email from the seller saying that they were out of stock. They offered me the following options as a replacement. I have a couple of Auber PIDS, and these look pretty similar. Any suggestions on which one to go with? Which one would replicate the STC-1000 the best?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Digita...ol-Controller-SSR-2-Alarms-NEW-/130835123154?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Univers...ler-SSR-Control-output-1-alarm-/110862594914?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-D...troller-SSR-Output-Manual-Auto-/130657138225?

Thanks,
 
No personal exp. with those, but they look cool. No temp. probe, but more info and Fahrenheit readout is nice. Have 2 STC 1000s- ferm chamber and keezer- both have worked well for several years.
 
Why is it that most of the builds I see are putting this temperature controller in a separate "project box" outside of the fridge? Wouldn't it make sense to cut a hole in the door, wire the unit to the existing thermostat wires and have everything internal? That way you just plug the original power cord for the fridge in to the wall and you've got power for the whole system.

Here's why I ask....this is the picture of the schematic for my fridge that's posted on the back panel.
IMG_3732.jpg


If I am understanding this correctly, the black wire is always hot when the fridge is plugged in. Only when the temperature triggers the thermostat, which closes the switch, is the red wire energized, thus turning on the compressor and cooling the system.

This picture is the inside, with the thermostat removed:
IMG_3688.jpg


If I just cut a hole in the door, mounted the STC-1000, I could run the black wire to the STC-1000 power input, and one line on each of the cooling/heating outputs. Then I could run a (-) line into the fridge for the other side of the power input. The red wire is already tied to the compressor on one end, so I could just tie it to the second connection for the cooling section.

The only problem I see is making sure to insulate the hole I cut, but If I use some caulking or foam insulation it shouldn't be a problem. Am I missing something? Why don't more people do this? Why are so many people (like everyone) building these systems with additional plugs and exterior boxes?
 
Why is it that most of the builds I see are putting this temperature controller in a separate "project box" outside of the fridge? Wouldn't it make sense to cut a hole in the door, wire the unit to the existing thermostat wires and have everything internal? That way you just plug the original power cord for the fridge in to the wall and you've got power for the whole system.

Here's why I ask....this is the picture of the schematic for my fridge that's posted on the back panel.
IMG_3732.jpg


If I am understanding this correctly, the black wire is always hot when the fridge is plugged in. Only when the temperature triggers the thermostat, which closes the switch, is the red wire energized, thus turning on the compressor and cooling the system.

This picture is the inside, with the thermostat removed:
IMG_3688.jpg


If I just cut a hole in the door, mounted the STC-1000, I could run the black wire to the STC-1000 power input, and one line on each of the cooling/heating outputs. Then I could run a (-) line into the fridge for the other side of the power input. The red wire is already tied to the compressor on one end, so I could just tie it to the second connection for the cooling section.

The only problem I see is making sure to insulate the hole I cut, but If I use some caulking or foam insulation it shouldn't be a problem. Am I missing something? Why don't more people do this? Why are so many people (like everyone) building these systems with additional plugs and exterior boxes?

I have a glass door on my ferm chamber so I though about keeping it internal but I didn't want to subject it to the temperatures inside especially if I decided to lager and there were going to be big changes in temperatures.
 
Why is it that most of the builds I see are putting this temperature controller in a separate "project box" outside of the fridge? Wouldn't it make sense to cut a hole in the door, wire the unit to the existing thermostat wires and have everything internal?

Some people do just that. I'm not sure why the separate box is more popular. I have the controller for my keezer mounted in the collar instead of in a project box, and I was going to integrate the wiring like you're describing, but wanted to be able to easily convert the freezer back to it's original configuration if I ever needed to, so I added an outlet instead of splicing into the wiring. I made a box for the one controlling my ferm chamber for two reasons. One, the $10 fridge I started out with looked like it might not last very long, which it didn't, and it was much easier to simply plug a new fridge in to an external box. Two, I like to be able to pull the controller out and use it for other things, like a ghetto sous vide cooker.
 
The glass door option is an obvious reason. I wouldn't want to cut the glass either. My fridge is my old dorm fridge from (purchased in 2003) and is still going strong. If it breaks, so be it, I've gotten 10 years out of it. I don't think a little silicon caulking would make it a permanent solution, and even if it breaks I can just cut the door to remove it. I have no intention of returning the fridge to it's normal operation after this. So I think I'll just cut the door, wire it in there and cross my fingers!
 
Wouldn't it make sense to cut a hole in the door, wire the unit to the existing thermostat wires and have everything internal? That way you just plug the original power cord for the fridge in to the wall and you've got power for the whole system.

snip


If I just cut a hole in the door, mounted the STC-1000, I could run the black wire to the STC-1000 power input, and one line on each of the cooling/heating outputs. Then I could run a (-) line into the fridge for the other side of the power input. The red wire is already tied to the compressor on one end, so I could just tie it to the second connection for the cooling section.


What you described will work. There are two reasons you don't see it very often:
1. You have to get the white wire run safely through from the outside to the controller. All the wires needed are already accessible on the outside.
2. Mounting the controller inside can allow condensation to form on the circuit boards.
 
What you described will work. There are two reasons you don't see it very often:
1. You have to get the white wire run safely through from the outside to the controller. All the wires needed are already accessible on the outside.
2. Mounting the controller inside can allow condensation to form on the circuit boards.

When I get around to building out my keezer I will most like integrate the controller into the woodwork, but I'll keep it external for simplicity.

Since my controller has a thermistor cable, and there's no need to deal with condensation if it's left outside.
 
I had one of these working for a few weeks and went to plug in a lamp running a 60 watt bulb to heat my ferm chamber. Fried it.. wired up my back up STC.. plugged in the lamp.. fried that one too.. blew $45 in 10 minutes! Can't figure out what went wrong... it had been working fine...
 
One problem you may have is that your diagram shows that your fridge uses a PTC thermistor. The STC-1000 uses a NTC. My understanding is they aren't interchangeable.
 
I had one of these working for a few weeks and went to plug in a lamp running a 60 watt bulb to heat my ferm chamber. Fried it.. wired up my back up STC.. plugged in the lamp.. fried that one too.. blew $45 in 10 minutes! Can't figure out what went wrong... it had been working fine...
Sounds like a short.
 
Yeah, I just can't figure out where.. everything was working fine for weeks! wires are clean inside the project box. Lamp works fine in the wall outlet.


OK, "lamp works fine in the wall outlet" tells us that it isn't the lamp shorted and overloading a trace on the board.

Does the controller power up at all? Did it smoke?

Could you have one of the high voltage wires crossed to a sensor terminal?
 
Are you running the SSR like you had posted about earlier? This is quite uncommon for most STC-1000 builds. Did you happen to mix your connections up on the SSR? You sure the SSR is rated properly?
 
neither controller powers up at all now. It did not smoke but there was a distinctive smell when i opened up the project box.

I never got around to installing the SSR on this unit and I didn't even have the fridge plugged in when things went bad.

I've got two more on the way now, hopefully i can figure out where things went wrong before hooking the next one up.

I'm going to review the diagram tonight again and see if there is any chance of a mistake, but it's so strange that it was working great for a while. The only thing I changed was plugging it into a GFCI outlet adapter I picked up at Depot.

I just thought of something, last week I used this unit on a 1000 watt bucket heater and it worked fine. Could I possibly have done some damage to the heating circuit? Should only be drawing 8-9 amps or so and didn't exhibit any odd behavior.
 
Even if you damaged it with the bucket heater last week, that wouldn't explain the second unit failing now.

Did you do any rewiring between working and failure?

Can you provide pictures and a wiring diagram of your set up?
 
I didn't change anything in the box. Didn't even open it up.

I'll post the wiring diagram tonight. I might be able to find the one I used before that.

Thanks for the help.
 
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