Starting AG soon - do I need anything else than this?

[Rev2010]

I have a 10 gallon Boilermaker kettle, also an economy 5 gallon pot. I'm looking to get one of those Rubbermaid mash tuns and just wanted to check if there's anything else I needed other than the mash tun.

I was thinking I would use the economy kettle to heat my mash water and also my sparge water and use the kettle to collect the wort. I would be doing this portion indoors with the boil outside on my Blichmann burner. Outside of the mash tun and some PH checking method (paper strips or an electronic pH meter) is there anything else I need. I figure I need to get a mash paddle too - no biggie. I'm primarily concerned with the bigger equipment but any advice as to any truly necessary small equipment would help greatly as well of course. In a Youtube vid I saw this one guy rigged a digital temp reader with a temp strip that sat in the mash to monitor the temps in real time. That sounds cool, is this something I should do or is it fine to check the temps with a lab thermometer once or twice during the mash? Lastly, I see Midwest has this other mash tun with some other type of insulation, albeit at a higher cost:

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/thermo-mash-tun.html

Any point in getting this over the Rubbermaid even being I will mash indoors? Thanks for any advice you guys can give. I've been thoroughly enjoying extract brewing but when I consider each of my brews use steeping grains I can't see all-grain taking much more time or being any more a hassle. I've been getting quite tired whisking in DME, it can get to be a PITA.


Rev.

 

[AdamWiz]

You don't really need anything extra other than the cooler. I use a rubbermaid with a stainless braid & ball valve - works perfectly. It holds temp well. I put a couple towels over it and don't ever lose more than a degree or two during a one hour mash. Welcome to all grain! The best part is no more stirring in sticky extract and working out all the clumps. Very little stirring needed. One thing, always remember to take a gravity reading before boiling so you can track your efficiency. And before running your wort off into your kettle, run off a few pints into a pitcher and recirculate it to clear out any debris that might come out at first.

 

[944play]

Like AdamWiz, I'm using a 10 gallon Rubbermaid with a braid and ball valve to great effect.

I like a cheapie floating thermometer in the mash.

Skip the pH strips. Get a meter eventually.

 

[AdamWiz]

Skip the pH strips. Get a meter eventually.

I have never bothered checking PH either. I do use "5.2 stabilzer" in the mash though. And I don't use any sort of special thermometer either - I just check the temp. once at the beginning of the mash with my regular lab thermometer, and check it again at the end to see how well it held the temp.

 

[bullinachinashop]

I didn't see any mention of a wort chiller

 

[Rev2010]

Have a wort chiller already And yep, I know to recirculate as well. Thanks so much for the info guys!!


Rev.

 

[phenry]

I just check the mash temp 5-10 minutes into mashing and adjust as necessary. I don't check the pH either, I just use bru'n water to estimate what it will be (apparently it's a little off, but I haven't had any problems with it in terms of beer quality).

 

[phoenixs4r]

160 bucks for the mash tun? Damn. Do it yourself. No offense to the vendor, I'm sure it's great, but damn.

I think all together with a false bottom mine wasn't even 100.

 

[bernerbrau]

50' wort chiller, 1/4" OD copper tubing. I remember my cheapo skinny 25' chiller, barely worked better than just airing it out to cool.

 

[smalliewader]

I've been thoroughly enjoying extract brewing but when I consider each of my brews use steeping grains I can't see all-grain taking much more time or being any more a hassle. I've been getting quite tired whisking in DME, it can get to be a PITA.


Rev.

It is considerably more time consuming, figure at minimum, double the time to make an extract batch. That said, lately I've found myself brewing only AG. I'm kind of hooked being able to control everything, truly making something from scratch....and honestly, my AG beers are just better than my PM and extract brews. They have a "cleaner" taste to them.

 

[Rev2010]

@bernerbrau - I have a 25' one but it's working great for me. This past weekend I chilled my amber ale down to pitching temps in about 30 minutes. With the colder weather coming the water will also be colder so it should go even faster.

@smalliewader - yeah, I figure it will definitely take quite a bit more time especially considering Vorlaufing and sparging but I'm ok with that. For me currently the single most annoying thing is whisking in extract, be it DME or LME, though I prefer to use DME and find it even more of a hassle to whisk in. Plus sometimes the powder puffs out and lays a sticky film on your hands and other things.

One other question guys... does it make any difference if I get a 10 gallon Rubbermaid mash tun as opposed to a 5 gallon? I'm only doing 5 gallon batches but like having the option for other volumes. Plus I've read higher gravity beers, of course with more grain and water in the mash, would need a 10 gallon tun. But is there any issue with holding the temps using a larger mash tun?


Rev.

 

[Sarge]

I don’t think it would be an issue. I have mashed 11 lbs up to 22 lbs of grains in my 13.5 gallon rectangular cooler and I seldom lose more than 1 degree. But I do pre-heat it with a few gallons of near boiling water and during mash I wrap it in an old sleeping bag.

Good luck to ya.

 

[phoenixs4r]

Get a 10 gallon. The price difference can't be significant, and you'll not kick yourself later when u want to do a high og brew or 10 gallon batch.

 

[Yooper]

One other question guys... does it make any difference if I get a 10 gallon Rubbermaid mash tun as opposed to a 5 gallon? I'm only doing 5 gallon batches but like having the option for other volumes. Plus I've read higher gravity beers, of course with more grain and water in the mash, would need a 10 gallon tun. But is there any issue with holding the temps using a larger mash tun?


Rev.

You can use a 5 gallon cooler. BUT then you can't do a beer bigger than about 1.060, unless you do it as a partial mash and add DME to the boil to make up for the small amount of grain. I have both- a 5 gallon and a 10 gallon, and I think the 5 gallon maxes out at about 11.5 pounds of grain at 1.25 quarts/pound with a false bottom.

 

[muthafuggle]

Get a 10 gallon. The price difference can't be significant, and you'll not kick yourself later when u want to do a high og brew or 10 gallon batch.

Unfortunately, the price difference is more than double for a 10 Gallon vs 5 gallon. -but it's worth every penny. I only do 5 gallon batches, but my 10 gallon tun can handle about #25 of grain. The 5 gallon version will only really handle enough grain to take you to about 1.050 beers. I personally don't worry about sleeping bags or other insulation. I pre-heat with water that's around 190 degrees and just lid 'er up... I never loose more than one or two degrees AT MOST over even a 90 minute mash. Go with the 10 gallon... the extra cash up front will make you a happy camper in the long run.

-and skip the hideously expensive pre-made tun. I did my whole conversion with a SS braid for about $80 including the cooler.

 

[muthafuggle]

You can use a 5 gallon cooler. BUT then you can't do a beer bigger than about 1.060, unless you do it as a partial mash and add DME to the boil to make up for the small amount of grain. I have both- a 5 gallon and a 10 gallon, and I think the 5 gallon maxes out at about 11.5 pounds of grain at 1.25 quarts/pound with a false bottom.

Yeah, I totally meant 1.060....

 

[Rev2010]

Awesome, thanks so much everyone!! 10 gallon MLT it is then. And nah, I was mostly just curious if there was any extra benefit of that other tun with the extra insulation. I'll just go with the Rubbermaid one's everyone uses. The money isn't really an issue, but of course I will buy it where I can get it the cheapest. I think NorthernBrewer's 10g price was like $170 (way high) and Midwest's was like $120 and getting the cooler and conversion separately makes it even cheaper but then I have to pay shipping from more than one place.


Rev.

 

[944play]

Do you have an Ace Hardware in your town? You can order the cooler online and pick it up in your local store, no shipping.

 

[speedwater]

Awesome, thanks so much everyone!! 10 gallon MLT it is then. And nah, I was mostly just curious if there was any extra benefit of that other tun with the extra insulation. I'll just go with the Rubbermaid one's everyone uses. The money isn't really an issue, but of course I will buy it where I can get it the cheapest. I think NorthernBrewer's 10g price was like $170 (way high) and Midwest's was like $120 and getting the cooler and conversion separately makes it even cheaper but then I have to pay shipping from more than one place.


Rev.

Home Depot has 10 gal Rubbermaid coolers w/ the HD logo on them for $42. I just bought one yesterday. Bargainfittings is a good source for ball valves at good prices. I just put together one w/ a stainless valve and braid for about $90 total. I drilled holes in the lid and shot in some expandable foam just to add insulation to the lid. Probably not necessary but I figured it couldn't hurt.

 

[Rev2010]

I have an Ace Hardware and a Home Depot near my house. The Ace is within walking distance but the Home Depot would require driving to get to and I don't drive. Honestly, it's not too big a deal for me to just spend the money on a tun kit. I just won't be getting it from Northern at $170, no way.


Rev.

 

[TopherM]

I have an Ace Hardware and a Home Depot near my house. The Ace is within walking distance but the Home Depot would require driving to get to and I don't drive.

Take a cab to Home Depot and you'll probably still come out ahead.

 

[speedwater]

Agreed...$170 is completely ridiculous.

 

[AdamWiz]

It amazes me how much people charge for pre-made cooler MLTs.
my rubbermaid 5 gallon cooler was 20 bucks at Menard's. I ordered my stainless steel ball valve and barbs from bargainfittings for 25 bucks or so, including delivery. I spent 3 bucks on a short plumbing supply line and cut the stainless braid off of it to use. So, total cost about 48-50 bucks. And I do wish I had got a 10 gallon cooler, even though the cooler would have been a lot more expensive. If I am making anything high gravity,I have to either use a bit of extract or make only a 3 gallon batch. I am actually about to buy a 10 gallon cooler to switch to, or maybe even this:
http://irpinconline.com/HomeBrew_Solutions/Mash-Hawk_Options.html

a bit expensive I know, but it is huge and I dig the casters on the bottom and the hieght of the valve.

 

[smalliewader]

Definitely go 10 G on the mash tun. I use a 5 gallon now and am limited to 3 G batches, which is fine since that's all I can boil at this time. I scored a free keg this week that I'm converting to a keggle, so a bigger tun is in my future for 5 G batches.

 

[Rev2010]

Had to ask one more question. I just ordered the mash tun as well as the ingredients for my first AG batch (NB Pumpkin Ale) and I forgot to get PH strips and any water treatments to adjust PH. I can probably contact them and have them add it, just wonder if that will delay ship out and I'm looking to do this this weekend. How screwed would I be if I ignored PH for my first batch? I'm in Bayonne NJ, our water report is here:

http://www.bayonnenj.org/pdf/water.pdf

but I'm still new to water chemistry so I'm not sure how to read it.


Rev.

 

[944play]

No mention of alkalinity, but 142 ppm TDS can't be too bad when a third of those are chloride ions. Just remove the chlorine and it should be fine.

 

[Rev2010]

Cool, thanks. I called them and the order was already processed and getting ready to be shipped out today so no biggie, wasn't able to add any PH strips or treatments to the order. I'll wing it with this first batch and will get that stuff for the next one.


Rev.

 

[jfr1111]

Unless you get the 30$ ones, pH strips are trash anyway.

Ask me how I know this.

I would brew a few beers without caring too much about water make-up, just to get your process down, unless you get horrible results. The first 4-5 batches are usually hectic and everything that can go wrong goes wrong (not hitting temps, doughballs, etc.). Then visit the Brew Science part of the forum and read everything you can.

PS: Allow yourself 6 hours from start to finish, you'll need them especially if you are crushing your grain. You can get efficient very fast after you start dialing in your system though. I brewed two beers on sunday and the cream ale had a 90 minutes mash. I was done in a little over 3 hours.