Star san and chlorinated tap water
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vampirebeer
Active Member
I never really thought about it. I just use tap water.
I have only used tap water for 6 years.... I also use only tap water, charcoal filtered for my brewing. I have never even used Campden tablets. That said it seems my municipal water is exceptionally good.
I remove the chlorine in all the water that touches my beer, including Starsan, with a good pinch of Potassium Metabisulfite (or Campden).
But I think you're OK just using your chlorinated tap water for a Starsan solution. Although our tap water is fairy soft, my Starsan water gets cloudy within a day. But I'll keep using it for weeks, until it gets dirty, grimey, or grayish. Never had a problem with it. pH remains under 3.5.
But I think you're OK just using your chlorinated tap water for a Starsan solution. Although our tap water is fairy soft, my Starsan water gets cloudy within a day. But I'll keep using it for weeks, until it gets dirty, grimey, or grayish. Never had a problem with it. pH remains under 3.5.
flars
Well-Known Member
Did you get that pH of 3.5 for Star San solution to be effective from one of my posts. I think I did type 3.5 once. The solution should remain at or below 3.0 according to Five Star Chemicals.
The pinch of Campden (potassium or sodium metabisulfite, 300 mg/5 gal) will get rid of the chlorine/chloramine in your tap water. Treat the water first, then add StarSan. No, problems.
Brew on
Brew on
LarMoeCur
Well-Known Member
I now only use RO or distilled. I've read or heard that as soon as the StarSan mix turns cloudy it's not as effective. Only true way to tell is to check it's pH. I start my brew day by mixing up a 5 gallon batch with RO or DW it last for months in a sealed vessel. When I used to use tap water it would only take about 20 minutes before it turned cloudy. At .10 a gallon not worth risk of losing an entire batch over.
flars
Well-Known Member
I would not take the risk that the chlorophenol taste might be noticeable in some styles of beer.
markstache
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I frequently use tap water to make up star san to sanitize carboys or other cold side equipment. Have never had a bandaid/plastic flavor in my beer. I've also topped off batches with straight tap water if no ill effects.
Perhaps I am lucky, but as I understand it, chlorophenols are produced in the mash. Once the wort is removed from the grain husk, the risk of producing these types of compounds is greatly reduced.
Perhaps I am lucky, but as I understand it, chlorophenols are produced in the mash. Once the wort is removed from the grain husk, the risk of producing these types of compounds is greatly reduced.
I actually got the pH <3.5 from Palmer's How to Brew. That number got etched into my brain somehow.
But after your observation, looking around, the concensus seems to be to keep the pH below 3.0. That doesn't seem to be a problem either.
I found an article in morebeer.com that was originally published by A.J. deLange in Brewing Techniques. It includes this:
It is also possible to remove chloramines by lowering the pH of the water. At low pH monochloramine converts to dichloramine, which, as we saw above, clears quickly (that is, overnight) from even standing water. Reducing the pH of the water to near pH 4 with hydrochloric acid will allow the dichloramine to escape; you could then restore the pH to a higher value suitable for dough-in with some kind of base. Anyone interested in the details can get in touch with me.
It seems that using star san at pH of 3 or less would accomplish what this article suggests. It requires an overnight stand. But it discusses only chloramine - not chlorine.
It is also possible to remove chloramines by lowering the pH of the water. At low pH monochloramine converts to dichloramine, which, as we saw above, clears quickly (that is, overnight) from even standing water. Reducing the pH of the water to near pH 4 with hydrochloric acid will allow the dichloramine to escape; you could then restore the pH to a higher value suitable for dough-in with some kind of base. Anyone interested in the details can get in touch with me.
It seems that using star san at pH of 3 or less would accomplish what this article suggests. It requires an overnight stand. But it discusses only chloramine - not chlorine.
Chlorine will dissipate overnight from an uncovered pot or bucket.
Brew on
Brew on
Turkeyshot
Well-Known Member
Chlorine will dissipate overnight from an uncovered pot or bucket.
Brew on
But chloramines will not. This article will explain, https://www.morebeer.com/articles/removing_chloramines_from_water
Right, but the post immediately prior to my last post was about a method to convert the normal chloramines to a form that would dissipate, but ended with a question about chlorine - which I answered.
In any case, campden on day of brew gets rid of both. Why mess around with any more complicated methods?
Brew on
Right, but the post immediately prior to my last post was about a method to convert the normal chloramines to a form that would dissipate, but ended with a question about chlorine - which I answered.
In any case, campden on day of brew gets rid of both. Why mess around with any more complicated methods?
Brew on
I haven't been treating my Star San water, and nobody has noticed any chlorine-related off flavors, but there could be a small amount that detracts from the quality. I plan to start treating the Star San water, starting with the next batch. Good call.
hlmbrwng
Well-Known Member
Hmmmm. Now I wonder how effective my Star San has been. The water out of my tap has a pH of 9.4. I've never checked the pH of diluted Star San.
I treat my mash water to lower the pH, but never thought to do with my sanitizing solution.
I treat my mash water to lower the pH, but never thought to do with my sanitizing solution.
pH of your water means very little. It's the alkalinity content that's important, it buffers away acidity (protons). From what I gather, it turns your Starsan cloudy too.
If your water's alkalinity is high you should probably use RO or distilled water instead.
hlmbrwng
Well-Known Member
The alkalinity according to the city water report is about 40 ppm for treated (tap) water.
