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Stainless Steel Heating Element

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anyone have any first hand experience with this element?

(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LI2W88G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20)

Is the fact that is stainless warrant the extra $$$

If the screw base is stainless it's worth the extra. Most stainless (incoloy) elements have a zinc plated steel screw base that can rust in homebrew applications.

I think the 2500W is kind of low for 240V application, so you may want to take a look consider brewhardware - I think Bobby is going to be getting all stainless 5500W ULWD ripple elements as well.
https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1832.htm
 
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I love the design of the thing... the threads on the electrical side would make a waterproof enclosure a breeze for about two bucks of hardware store shelf items. Anybody have something similar at about twice the wattage? I'm entertaining just getting two for each kettle.
 
If the screw base is stainless it's worth the extra. Most stainless (incoloy) elements have a zinc plated steel screw base that can rust in homebrew applications.

I think the 2500W is kind of low for 240V application, so you may want to take a look consider brewhardware - I think Bobby is going to be getting all stainless 5500W ULWD ripple elements as well.
https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1832.htm

I believe this is actually stainless. They were advertising it as 5500w (or maybe 4500w) and someone on HBT received one and found it wasnt as advertised. They eventually revised the description after apologizing, because they were led to believe they were 5500w.

Has Bobby said anything about ULWD ripple elements recently? I know several of us initially asked, and he said he was starting with the straight elements because they could also be used in his RIMs tube, and that was the last I heard of him mentioning it. I really, really hope he is getting some ULWD. I could swap out my BK element, and continue using the straight ones in my RIMs and HLT, plus have a backup element if I ever encountered problems!
 
Since the still boys has a cover on the backside does that mean you don't need a enclosure? Can I wire it up and put in a cord grip? Save a bit of cash not having to do up an enclosure.
 
Since the still boys has a cover on the backside does that mean you don't need a enclosure? Can I wire it up and put in a cord grip? Save a bit of cash not having to do up an enclosure.

You could, but you would need a way to ground the kettle separately. There's also the issue of only being 2500 watts which isn't much.
 
You could, but you would need a way to ground the kettle separately. There's also the issue of only being 2500 watts which isn't much.

Ah forgot about grounding good point... Be perfect for a rims tube though.
 

Awesome, thanks for responding. I love your level of service, and really appreciate you filling in some of the gaps with better elements, better priced cam locks, etc. It's a good part of why I have spent over $1k on your site in the past 3 months and will gladly buy the new ripple element!
 
Bobby, will these be ULWD ripple heating elements? Also, what voltage and wattage will you have available?
 
Yes, the ripples are all ULWD at 5500w. Keep in mind, I'm yet to hear about any scorching issues with the current LWD 5500's we have so the ripples are for those who want to be ultra conservative.

The full suite of elements we'll have after the new lot arrives:

5500 ULWD Ripple foldback (240v)
5500 LWD Straight foldback (240v)
2000 ULWD Straight foldback (120v)
1500 LWD 8" long hairpin (120v)
1500 ULWD 11" long hairpin (120v)
 
Bobby. Any chance you will carry 4500w elements? I'm building a 50 amp back to back unit. The 5500 s will draw to much juice running simultaneously.
 
I don't think I'll have 4500 any time soon. Why can't you run two 5500 watt elements? Worst case you have a full 240 volts then it will draw 45.83amps. That's enough room for a pair of pumps too. Most likely you'll have 230v so they'll actually only pull 43.9amps.
 
Are they ready yet? :)

spaming-refresh-button.jpg
 
I don't think I'll have 4500 any time soon. Why can't you run two 5500 watt elements? Worst case you have a full 240 volts then it will draw 45.83amps. That's enough room for a pair of pumps too. Most likely you'll have 230v so they'll actually only pull 43.9amps.

Quoting another sight. "The electrical code in most locations requires that you do not use more than 80% of a circuit's capacity. On a 50A/240V circuit 11000W uses 92% (45.8A) while 9000W uses only 75% (37.5A)."

I'm not sure what the code is in Texas. Just seemed easier to use 4500 (better safe than sorry). I'll have to look at this more closely when it time to assemble my HLT and BK. I'll be running a 50 amp breaker I didn't think it would be an issue but I'm new to the electric game.
 
Quoting another sight. "The electrical code in most locations requires that you do not use more than 80% of a circuit's capacity. On a 50A/240V circuit 11000W uses 92% (45.8A) while 9000W uses only 75% (37.5A)."

I'm not sure what the code is in Texas. Just seemed easier to use 4500 (better safe than sorry). I'll have to look at this more closely when it time to assemble my HLT and BK. I'll be running a 50 amp breaker I didn't think it would be an issue but I'm new to the electric game.

My understanding is that this de-rating applies only to continuous loads of 3 hours or more. I pulsing SSR does not qualify as continuous.
 
Out of curiosity, so what if the electrical code in one place says you can't run 11000W on a 50A/240V circuit? If the code in your location says it's okay then it's okay but if it says it's not okay then suddenly it isn't safe? I mean, either there is a legitimate safety concern or there isn't, right?

People are running two 5500W elements on a 50A/240V circuit without issues, are they not?
 
Out of curiosity, so what if the electrical code in one place says you can't run 11000W on a 50A/240V circuit? If the code in your location says it's okay then it's okay but if it says it's not okay then suddenly it isn't safe? I mean, either there is a legitimate safety concern or there isn't, right?

People are running two 5500W elements on a 50A/240V circuit without issues, are they not?

You are operating on the faulty assumptions that regulations have to make sense. :)
 
Out of curiosity, so what if the electrical code in one place says you can't run 11000W on a 50A/240V circuit? If the code in your location says it's okay then it's okay but if it says it's not okay then suddenly it isn't safe? I mean, either there is a legitimate safety concern or there isn't, right?

People are running two 5500W elements on a 50A/240V circuit without issues, are they not?

I was thinking the same thing. Who writes these dumb codes anyway. Use a 50 amp breaker but you can only pull 80% because heaven forbid you pull 50 amps.
 
I have two 5500 SS elements in HLT from bobby. i have tested my system with 20gallon HLT and both elements on with my 50amp control panel. So far with my testing i have not had issues. you should be good with running two. I went with two elements in my HTL and one in my boil kettle. The reason i only use one in my BK is that it will be getting wort at 150+ so the time to get to boil will not justify having two elements. here is write up of my control panel..

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27904

at the bottom of my post you can see that with both of bobby's elements they are pulling 44amps.

if you are building your panel go with DIN RAIL !!! it makes your life much easier i think.
 
I have two 5500 SS elements in HLT from bobby. i have tested my system with 20gallon HLT and both elements on with my 50amp control panel. So far with my testing i have not had issues. you should be good with running two. I went with two elements in my HTL and one in my boil kettle. The reason i only use one in my BK is that it will be getting wort at 150+ so the time to get to boil will not justify having two elements. here is write up of my control panel..

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27904

at the bottom of my post you can see that with both of bobby's elements they are pulling 44amps.

if you are building your panel go with DIN RAIL !!! it makes your life much easier i think.


What does one do to go with din rail? Does that mean the contactors and such clip into a din rail?
 
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