Stainless fermenter... yes or no?

[ILMSTMF]

I think the SS brew bucket (and alikes) are fine, but the aspect ratio (steepness) of the "cone" is not enough for dropping trub. IMO, it's a pretty much useless "feature."

I might be getting tripped up. I'm going off-topic (again, sort of). Cone collects trub, great. Beer sits on top of it, fine. I do that with my flat bottom bucket. I don't see the harm. So, point of the cone is to drop trub out mid-fermentation? If that's what the point of it is... 1) Why? 2) Suppose the vessel has a racking arm with pickup tube that sits above the cone. Clear beer could get transferred regardless if the trub below was dropped out or still sitting there. WTF am I missing here?

You want to make sure there's a port in the lid to add stuff (dry hops) while flushing CO2 in through another port. That CO2 "nipple" should also allow you to do closed transfers.

Hell yes! Like what we've been trying to figure out with our plastic buckets. ;-)

The issue with metal buckets is you can't see inside without removing the lid, that could make racking a bit more unpredictable.

That's where my lid-off transfer method has worked well, in the plastic bucket. But, to my point above, suppose the pickup tube is going to sit above the trub. Wouldn't only clear beer transfer out?

Spending $150-200 on a PET fermenter is a bit crazy, IMO. Looks are immaterial, you need to cover them up anyway, or better yet, stick in an FC.

AMEN. I'm not trying to impress friends with how my gear looks. Sure, it'd be nice to have something fancy looking but she's going in the FC anyway.

that can minimize oxygen and control temps. Both of those were my most important considerations

I saw those Fermonsters as well. Quite affordable. My damn mini fridge has both the compressor hump on bottom and the freezer chamber on top. Your mini fridge looks much more roomy than what I've got! So, there's another option. Again, I have about 3' more in height that I could occupy should I replace my mini fridge with an upright freezer.

 

[Yesfan]

........Spending $150-200 on a PET fermenter is a bit crazy, IMO. Looks are immaterial, you need to cover them up anyway, or better yet, stick in an FC.

Just to clarify, I didn't recommend the Fermzilla based on looks. Compared to the Flex and Brew Bucket, the Fermzilla gives you a bit more with the ability to dump trub harvest yeast with the dump valve and do pressurized fermentations. You can't do that with the brew bucket and for the Spike you have to step up to the Flex+ which is $400 and still doesn't have a way to dump the trub and harvest yeast like a conical.

I'm a stainless guy, but after a couple of batches in my Spike conical (and my Flex+), I can see where the Fermzilla can give you similar performance for a lost less money.

 

[LittleRiver]

...Cone collects trub, great. Beer sits on top of it, fine... I don't see the harm. So, point of the cone is to drop trub out mid-fermentation? If that's what the point of it is... 1) Why?

At one time it was thought that getting the beer off the trub was necessary, because of the belief that sitting on the trub was harmful to the beer. The conical shape minimized the contact the beer had with the trub. "Secondary fermetation" was done by racking to a secondary vessel (leaving the trub behind), or dumping the trub out the bottom of a conical. It was easier to dump the trub from the conical, so back then the conical was seen as having an advantage.

Fast forward to today, and there is general understanding that the trub is not harmful as was once thought. In addition, nowadays it's standard practice to avoid transferring to secondary fermenters, because of the damage done to the beer by oxygen exposure in the racking process.

For most styles of beer, contact time with the trub is not a problem. The shape of the bottom of the fermenter just doesn't matter.

As for harvesting yeast, it doesn't matter whether it's collected out the bottom of a conical or poured out of the top of the fermenter after the beer has been drained. The shape of the fermenter bottom just doesn't matter.

Some styles do benefit from an extended aging period, so in those cases it does make sense to separate the beer from the trub. A conical makes that process easier, because you can dump the trub without transferring to a secondary vessel. But there's a catch. The conical is going to be tied up for the entire extended aging period, which may be months. That's not practical for a lot of folks. In those cases a transfer to a secondary vessel makes sense -- completely negating the "advantage" of having a conical.

Some tout the pressure capabilities of conicals for doing closed transfers, but the same can be done with simple flat bottomed PET fermenters. Pressure is not even a requirement, gravity powered closed transfers work great.

2) Suppose the vessel has a racking arm with pickup tube that sits above the cone. Clear beer could get transferred regardless if the trub below was dropped out or still sitting there. WTF am I missing here?...

You're not missing anything.

 

[ILMSTMF]

At one time it was thought that getting the beer off the trub was necessary, because of the belief that sitting on the trub was harmful to the beer. The conical shape minimized the contact the beer had with the trub. "Secondary fermetation" was done

Man... it's been years since I've read Palmer, 3rd edition I believe. All coming back now that you said that!
Yeah, I used to rack from bucket to carboy after two weeks. Then another two weeks before moving to bottling bucket / bottles. What a pain in the ass. Key note - these were usually unnecessary secondaries. I can remember two where it made sense. A barleywine that sat in secondary, in a dark closet, for six months. And a chocolate stout with PB2 (peanut butter powder). I used the carboy to swirl the PB2 around at least once a day to get it incorporated into the beer. But even those weren't true secondary fermentations. I digress.

In addition, nowadays it's standard practice to avoid transferring to secondary fermenters, because of the damage done to the beer by oxygen exposure in the racking process.

See above! LOL

Some styles do benefit from an extended aging period, so in those cases it does make sense to separate the beer from the trub.

As in my barleywine.

The conical is going to be tied up for the entire extended aging period, which may be months. That's not practical for a lot of folks. In those cases a transfer to a secondary vessel makes sense -- completely negating the "advantage" of having a conical.

YUP! Which is why I've got that spare carboy. And your point holds true re: negating advantage of conical.

Some tout the pressure capabilities of conicals for doing closed transfers, but the same can be done with simple flat bottomed PET fermenters. Pressure is not even a requirement, gravity powered closed transfers work great.

Opening a can of worms here... I have been trying to figure out a way to do a closed transfer with my bucket. Two ports in lid. One for airlock, one for thermowell. Airlock port is tighter. Cannot remove thermowell without removing lid.
I really should start a new thread for this...
Anyway, the best I came up with is drilling a third hole in lid. Use port for a SS racking cane I have. Attach CO2 supply to airlock stem. Hope for the best.
1) Haven't drilled that hole yet so can't say if it'll work. 2) The SS cane doesn't have a... deflector / guard whatever it's called on it. My plastic auto siphon does. Works well to minimize trub pick up.

You're not missing anything.

AMEN.

 

[IslandLizard]

But there's a catch. The conical is going to be tied up for the entire extended aging period, which may be months. That's not practical for a lot of folks. In those cases a transfer to a secondary vessel makes sense -- completely negating the "advantage" of having a conical.

That doesn't have to be the case when you use kegs for aging. Do a normal closed, oxygen-free transfer in 100% liquid pre-purged kegs as if they are serving kegs. Then age them for however long you want. Also easy to push out small samples along the way or infuse with tinctures. Even adding wood cubes or chips can be done under CO2 with minimal or no O2 invasion.

 

[LittleRiver]

... I have been trying to figure out a way to do a closed transfer with my bucket....

Put a $4 spigot on your bucket. That will enable you to do gravity powered closed transfers.

See the photos in the post I referenced in post #30 above.

 

[IslandLizard]

Put a $4 spigot on your bucket. That will enable you to do gravity powered closed transfers.

See the photos in the post I referenced in post #30 above.

I like that Occam's Razor approach!
Have done a lot of them like that? How did it turn out?

 

[ILMSTMF]

Put a $4 spigot on your bucket. That will enable you to do gravity powered closed transfers.

I could make that old bottling bucket my primary ...
I’ve not given it best care, handling it roughly. So a solid chance there are more micro scratches than my real primary. Hmmm.

 

[ILMSTMF]

Writing this down now before I forget.

I F'd up my FC measurements.

Current measurement is 11" deep from door open to hump. Only 24" high. If I remove the freezer chamber U-shaped enclosure, I can go to 29" high.

That 11" floor space sucks. If I put in a shelf of some sort in line with the hump, I would have 16" back wall to door opening and 20" height (if I remove the freezer chamber). Sucks worse; that height probably won't cut it for any vessel (including my current setup).
Of all things to consider, the SS Brew Bucket might fit. Doubt it, the specs may not account for airlock height. Actually, the Fermonster seems like most likely thing to fit.

For the love of God, can someone just sell me an upright freezer for cheap?! LOL

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Writing this down now before I forget.

I F'd up my FC measurements.

Current measurement is 11" deep from door open to hump. Only 24" high. If I remove the freezer chamber U-shaped enclosure, I can go to 29" high.

That 11" floor space sucks. If I put in a shelf of some sort in line with the hump, I would have 16" back wall to door opening and 20" height (if I remove the freezer chamber). Sucks worse; that height probably won't cut it for any vessel (including my current setup).
Of all things to consider, the SS Brew Bucket might fit. Doubt it, the specs may not account for airlock height. Actually, the Fermonster seems like most likely thing to fit.

For the love of God, can someone just sell me an upright freezer for cheap?! LOL

On the 4.4cf mini fridge I'm using it is 11.5" from the hump to the edge of the refrigerator. Since the door protrudes in a little bit, I needed to cut the door slightly so make the fermonster fit. The fermonster I think is actually 11.3" in diameter but the inside of the door gives that space.

 

[LittleRiver]

...Current measurement is 11" deep from door open to hump....

You can build a collar on the front of your mini fridge to give you more depth.

I got lucky and found a used Haier mini fridge (for wine) that has a clear curved front door. The curve in the door gives just enough space for a big mouth bubbler to fit. With the clear door and a clear fermenter I can see when the krausen has fallen, or when the beer gets clear during a cold crash, without even opening the door. I rigged a window shade that pulls up to block light when I'm not snooping on the yeast.

 

[Stand]

I extended my mini fridge to hold 4 kegs. Really worked out well, and it only took me a few hours. I still say torpedo kegs fermenters are wave of the future.

 

[LittleRiver]

I like that Occam's Razor approach!
Have done a lot of them like that? How did it turn out?

I started out purging liquid filled kegs with bottled CO2, but after the first time I purged with fermentation gas it worked so well that I haven't done it any other way since.

I tried transferring with bottled CO2 once, but there's no real advantage to it when compared to a gravity powered transfer. So I standardized on gravity powered transfers. I've done a lot of them, and not had any problems.



I purge my drain hose with bottled CO2 before I attach it. I have a plan to install some quick disconnects so the drain hose will also get purged by fermentation gas, but I haven't done that yet. It would just be inserted in the blow off line going to the keg during fermentation. For transfer I'll disconnect that section and move it to the spigot.

 

[Cato1507]

Yeah, I'd say the jury is still out. When you commit you definitely want to be happy with it. That includes a provision for an FC that will fit the fermenter.

I think the SS brew bucket (and alikes) are fine, but the aspect ratio (steepness) of the "cone" is not enough for dropping trub. IMO, it's a pretty much useless "feature."
You want to make sure there's a port in the lid to add stuff (dry hops) while flushing CO2 in through another port. That CO2 "nipple" should also allow you to do closed transfers.
With good care a stainless bucket should last forever.

The issue with metal buckets is you can't see inside without removing the lid, that could make racking a bit more unpredictable. I guess you could peek through a wide enough port in the lid and a flashlight perhaps.

The issue with plastic fermenters is being more scratch prone, having mould seams, or other protrusions. Spending $150-200 on a PET fermenter is a bit crazy, IMO. Looks are immaterial, you need to cover them up anyway, or better yet, stick in an FC.

Certainly each to his own but in regard to the brew bucket, I position my racking arm even with the top of the cone, which allows me to draw clear beer just above the trub.
The 7 gal chronical lid fits the brew bucket which has a port for dry hopping blow off, etc.

I've never had the need for the option of the chronical lid but those and many other options are available if one wants it.
I guess thats part of the fun in brewing, is that you can buy as much or as little gear and still produce competition quality beer.

 

[Andrew7447]

For ipas, pressure fermenting has been by far the best and biggest change ive ever made ever. So to me if it cant hold pressure its not worth a dime to me anymore.

 

[ILMSTMF]

For ipas, pressure fermenting has been by far the best and biggest change ive ever made ever. So to me if it cant hold pressure its not worth a dime to me anymore.

Much of what I produce. Pressure fermenting... I've heard of it, read a little, but didn't care to go further because I don't have the gear to do it.
Before, the goal was primarily to do a closed transfer. (Oh, and O2-free dry hop additions). Hence, the desire to change gear. But your point about pressure fermenting has me intrigued. I will read up to learn the benefits, thanks.

 

[ILMSTMF]

For ipas, pressure fermenting has been by far the best and biggest change ive ever made ever.

OK, one quick point I found was that pressure fermenting could aid in preserving aroma since less blowing off would occur. If that's true, I'm sold. I always yearn for the aroma to jump out of the glass. I did a Pliny clone recently and she was lovely but still... I've had commercial beer from bottles that had more prominent aromatics. Very frustrating.

 

[Andrew7447]

OK, one quick point I found was that pressure fermenting could aid in preserving aroma since less blowing off would occur. If that's true, I'm sold. I always yearn for the aroma to jump out of the glass. I did a Pliny clone recently and she was lovely but still... I've had commercial beer from bottles that had more prominent aromatics. Very frustrating.

In my experience it is true. I've done atleast the same dam ipa recipe 50 times with pressure transfers. Then I did it ONCE under pressure ferment and it was by far the best ipa I ever made period.

 

[ILMSTMF]

In my experience it is true. I've done atleast the same dam ipa recipe 50 times with pressure transfers. Then I did it ONCE under pressure ferment and it was by far the best ipa I ever made period.

Dear God Almighty help us...

Anyone else care to weigh in? This would narrow down my options to eliminate, as far as I can tell...

• SS Brew Bucket
• Anvil
• Speidel
• Delta Fermtank
• Maybe the Fermonster but it looks like our friend @Noob_Brewer has figured out a way to ferment under pressure so...?

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Dear God Almighty help us...

Anyone else care to weigh in? This would narrow down my options to eliminate, as far as I can tell...

• SS Brew Bucket
• Anvil
• Speidel
• Delta Fermtank
• Maybe the Fermonster but it looks like our friend @Noob_Brewer has figured out a way to ferment under pressure so...?

Appreciate the shout out, but I do not ferment under pressure at all lol. During fermentation I will hook up the gas post from the fermonster and allow the CO2 generated from the fermentation to purge a keg full of star san though. The system I am using does allow for closed transfers and Im still gravity transferring from the FV to the serving keg but I know others will transfer under about ~8PSI pushing the liquid to keg from the CO2 tank. In my processes, I never get above 5PSI and thats only when Im gravity transferring to keg. The fermonster is not rated to undergo pressure and with the modified lid Im using you CAN load it to about 10PSI but Ive never had the guts to push it. I think @flintoid HAS used this same system Im using to ferment under pressure though at around 10-15PSI.

 

[RePete]

Following. I have been going through much the same thinking. I have been fermenting in glass carboys for the most part. I was about ready to go ahead and get a Fermzilla. Haven’t been convinced that the SS Brew bucket is worth spending the extra money? Part of the attraction of the Fermzilla is that it can be used to serve from if I’m short on kegs, part is harvesting yeast, part is pressurized fermentation, and part is closed transfers. It’s a lot of features for the price. I’m not so worried about scratching it, as I know to be careful. I
also do 5-6 gallon batches. Yeast harvesting is the least critical feature, because as someone said, it can be poured out at the end. Currently I am leaning towards the 7.6 gallon Kegmenter. Now $180 through Williams.

 

[ILMSTMF]

I was about ready to go ahead and get a Fermzilla. Haven’t been convinced that the SS Brew bucket is worth spending the extra money? Part of the attraction of the Fermzilla is that it can be used to serve from if I’m short on kegs, part is harvesting yeast, part is pressurized fermentation, and part is closed transfers. It’s a lot of features for the price. I’m not so worried about scratching it, as I know to be careful.

I suppose the "scratch factor" will always be a factor with plastic. I also suppose that's one key advantage of SS over plastic.

You'd probably do well with that Fermzilla! At the moment, I'm literally between that and the Spike Flex+.

Forgive me if I'm spreading misinformation - I think the Fermzilla was marketing the ability to add dry hops from the bottom, in the collection trap, without O2 exposure...and can upgrade to purge with CO2. O2-free dry hop addition is important to me. If that can be done in FZ but no Flex+... narrows the competition, for me.

 

[RePete]

Forgive me if I'm spreading misinformation - I think the Fermzilla was marketing the ability to add dry hops from the bottom, in the collection trap, without O2 exposure...and can upgrade to purge with CO2. O2-free dry hop addition is important to me. If that can be done in FZ but no Flex+... narrows the competition, for me.

I think you are correct. Good point. I don’t know about the Flex+

 

[RePete]

I’m trying to keep it under $200. The FZ is $130, plus $20-30 for floating ball kit. So $160? The Kegmenter is $180, and includes the floating ball. So, maybe a $20 difference. And it’s stainless. And I need another keg. Lol.

The hesitation for me about the FZ is that the whole valve and collection trap deal at the bottom seems like both an attractive feature and a possible source of trouble. Mostly worried about how it will hold up long term, since it’s plastic . Will it leak? Can probably just replace that part if so I guess.

 

[Andrew7447]

I’m trying to keep it under $200. The FZ is $130, plus $20-30 for floating ball kit. So $160? The Kegmenter is $180, and includes the floating ball. So, maybe a $20 difference. And it’s stainless. And I need another keg. Lol.

The hesitation for me about the FZ is that the whole valve and collection trap deal at the bottom seems like both an attractive feature and a possible source of trouble. Mostly worried about how it will hold up long term, since it’s plastic . Will it leak? Can probably just replace that part if so I guess.

I cant get a Kegmenter in canada I dont think. But I do have a custom keg 50L keg I brew with. Works well, probably will last forever. The fermzilla does have zero 02 dry hops tho and seeing the beer itself ferment is cool and watching the beer flow is convenient too. Mine doesnt leak, but I do need to use keg lube and have things tight with the addeed tool.

 

[RePete]

Thanks for the report. Good to hear that the FZ is serving you well.

 

[Yesfan]

Appreciate the shout out, but I do not ferment under pressure at all lol. During fermentation I will hook up the gas post from the fermonster and allow the CO2 generated from the fermentation to purge a keg full of star san though. The system I am using does allow for closed transfers and Im still gravity transferring from the FV to the serving keg but I know others will transfer under about ~8PSI pushing the liquid to keg from the CO2 tank. In my processes, I never get above 5PSI and thats only when Im gravity transferring to keg. The fermonster is not rated to undergo pressure and with the modified lid Im using you CAN load it to about 10PSI but Ive never had the guts to push it. I think @flintoid HAS used this same system Im using to ferment under pressure though at around 10-15PSI.

10psi on the Fermonsters?? That's scary as hell thinking about that. I can't even imagine doing a pressurized fermentation in one either. I would love to see some video of that.

I've since sold my Fermonsters (kinda wished I kept at least one of them), but when I was transferring to kegs, I never went higher than about 2 psi. Basically, I turned the regulator up just enough for the beer to be pushed up into the racking cane.

 

[Bassman2003]

Late the party, but here is my fermenter - a 30L Fusti. I have a wine fridge with the same dimensions. I had a small cabinet made to elevate the fridge so any kind of transfer is easy gravity. For closed keg transfers I just hook up a hose with a QD on one end and run the gas out of the keg back up into the airlock hole. No pressure needed, no O2 either.

The longer I brew the less time I spend in the fermenter. So while it is important for some things, with great yeast health and solid brewing practice, ales should only need the thing for 3-5 days and lagers around a week.

This fusti has been great. I upgraded the spigot to fit 3/8" I.D. tubing and drilled a hole for the air lock on the top. It is light, easy to clean and seals well. (Don't mind the spots, I let it air dry and do not polish the outside). Here is the link - Fusti Tank 30 Liter - The Vintner Vault

 

[ChiknNutz]

The more I read, the more overwhelming it seems as there are so many options to consider. I still just use a plastic bucket with a spigot as a primary (the William's Brewing kit). I'd like to move up to the next stage for another primary fermenter just so I can do a couple batches at once. But honestly have the analysis paralysis going on now.

 

[ILMSTMF]

The more I read, the more overwhelming it seems

Ditto that.

Currently, my decision is between Spike Flex+ and Fermzilla. The single greatest obstacle here is not cost but, rather, footprint.
I like to control temperature using both sources for cooling and heating. I've seen FC builds using only one type - not enough, to me. 1) I want to cold crash, in place. I don't want to move vessel to a different chamber for cooling. 2) I want to ferment warm, near the end of fermentation.

Thus, figuring out a way to do that and not occupy more garage space (I have very little space left) has become an issue. I have height available. So I'm now trying to figure out a way to stack something in the space the current FC is. I.E. cooler on floor to supply a cooling coil with cold water, stack fermenter on top of cooler. I have no idea if that's even possible as that may put too much pressure on the cooler lid thus squeezing the supply line.

Which is why I'm here, in the great HBT community, trying to make a sensible plan. Cheers!

 

[Bassman2003]

In reading your original post, it seems you have the identical setup I have - mini fridge with bucket style fermenter with a spigot. Your goal was to upgrade the bucket to a better fermenter as well as do closed transfers right? Or has this morphed through the discussion?

I do closed transfers with gravity only out of the spigot. No need to change your setup just to do closed transfers.

 

[ILMSTMF]

In reading your original post

Your goal was to upgrade the bucket to a better fermenter as well as do closed transfers right? Or has this morphed through the discussion?

Morphed, perhaps drastically. Please excuse any confusion.

I do closed transfers with gravity only out of the spigot. No need to change your setup just to do closed transfers.

There's the difference - my primary bucket is without spigot. I have one like that, used to use for bottling, and have not treated it with care for a while. I fear it may have many micro-scratches which is part of why I don't want to trade out the current primary for it.
However, the new goal is to get a vessel that allows for pressure fermentation.

 

[IslandLizard]

The more I read, the more overwhelming it seems

Ditto that.

1985, AD. Before "Automation" was known as IT.
My department head asked me to look into developing a new way to store, access, (and archive) a current system of mostly paper and card-based data records used in another (internal), support department.

After doing some grassroots research, mainly to wet the appetite and generating interest in using newer, developing technology options (e.g., CD-R, PCs, small networks), I wrote a preliminary report on a few possible avenues to be researched in more depth.

The top manager of the department the card system ultimately fell under, not so coincidentally also in charge of the general budget, said: "All well and interesting, but you forgot to mention something.... The null-option!"

Although that was harsh, there was some truth to be learned.

When being a bit more open minded, it doesn't always have to mean: "Doing absolutely nothing!"
There are many ways to adapt existing systems and processes with surprisingly little effort.

Not judging the bling aspect of the alternatives presented here, there's no competition there.
But does any of those alternatives offer significant improvement over a modified plastic bucket system?
IOW, can a bucket system be modified and improved upon to include most or all the important advantages.
For example, my bucket lid with 3 holes for airlock, access, and inspection.

There are impediments everywhere, whatever you choose. You just need to learn to negotiate and work with them.
For example, in Marshall's (Brülosophy) review of the Flex+, he mentions the handles, which should not be used to lift the full fermenter.

But regardless of that warning, it ends up in his deep freezer chest, and he has to dive in there halfway to attach a hose to the valve of the racking assembly.

 

[ILMSTMF]

Here's my dude with the philosophy!

When being a bit more open minded, it doesn't always have to mean: "Doing absolutely nothing!"
There are many ways to adapt existing systems and processes with surprisingly little effort.

Indeed!

But does any of those alternatives offer significant improvement over a modified plastic bucket system?

We may be in the realm of subjectivity. The plastic bucket gets the job done, OK!

What improvement would I expect from changing systems?
• At a minimum, a better seal. One dumb example - the airlock sits tight in the grommet. The grommet I have for the thermowell is larger, to accommodate the wider thermowell (duh). The thermowell fits nicely but it requires less force to get it through the grommet whereas the airlock feels snug in its grommet. OK. So, possible leak. And possible point of entry for O2??
• A no-bullsh!t pressurized closed transfer. It's been a while since I did a gravity transfer... but I don't have good memories of it. I can picture the bucket on a stool (!) on a counter (!!!) to get enough height for the drop to waiting vessel. Don't ask, have vague memory of the details.
Anyway, the constant mental battle of "how do I do a closed transfer with this bucket?" has become exhausting. Yes, we developed a plan to drill a third hole in the lid which would allow for a SS racking cane to go in, stream CO2 into the airlock stem... but I never drilled that hole / got a grommet for it. The flaw with this method is getting the cane into the beer, above the trub line. It would require some effort. Plus, the auto siphon I normally use has a trub shield / deflector on the pickup. The SS cane does not so... could easily cause a clog during transfer. A clog that I'm not sure how I'd fix.
• no O2 exposure at any point. That might be a dream. How to 1) successfully / properly dry hop 2) without spending a small fortune on an accessory to do that with? But, sealing the vessel up after pitch and doing a closed transfer to keg is realistic, certainly.
• bonus would be to ferment under pressure.

Those are the gains I'd expect. If the vessel is relatively easy to move around, offers temp control at a reasonable price / footprint for new gear, and is easy to clean, I would have something that is worth changing systems for.

For example, in Marshall's (Brülosophy) review of the Flex+, he mentions the handles, which should not be used to lift the full fermenter.

Saw that, lol
FWIW, Spike's official position on the Flex+ is that it is not to be used for fermenting under pressure. That was a statement from one of their CSRs, via email. I believe, like the handle warning, that those positions are in place to release Spike from liability should the brewer ignore them. I understand that and respect them for their safety warnings. But that didn't stop Marshall from using those handles to move the full fermenter nor does it stop other brewers for fermenting under pressure.

There are impediments everywhere, whatever you choose.

Amen.

 

[Dr_Jeff]

Just got a sale on a kegmenter for $175. Floating dip tube I plan to modify to blend off the porous weld or solder (whatever it is), but should work great for pressure transfers and no more complicated than cleaning a keg.

Where did you find them on sale?

I've been looking at getting a couple of those.

 

[ChiknNutz]

Where did you find them on sale?

I've been looking at getting a couple of those.

FYI, I am on the fence about one of these myself. Best price I've found is William's Brewing for $180 with free shipping.
https://www.williamsbrewing.com/76-Gallon-Kegland-Kegmenter-P4853.aspx

 

[RePete]

I’m still deciding between the FZ and the Kegmenter. Haven’t bought anything yet. Partly because I’m waiting to see how work plays out with the COVID-19 shutdown.

 

[ChiknNutz]

I pulled the trigger on the Kegmenter a few days ago, also ordered a couple corny kegs and supplies. Found new kegs for $70 each, hard not to go new at that price. Deeper and deeper into the rabbit hole I go!

 

[ILMSTMF]

I’m still deciding between the FZ and the Kegmenter

OP here. Might sound funny but I've changed course a bit. My plastic bucket is showing its age so I need a near-term solution if I plan to brew soon. So, looking at the Fermonster as a replacement.
Maybe down the road I will get a stainless fermenter. Need a bigger FC for that. For now, a smaller investment on something that should fit in my FC.

 

[RePete]

The good news is that just about any of these options work. Nothing wrong with getting something more economical for now.