Spunding valve help

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cmac62

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So I bought a (adjustable) spunding valve off of Amazon (see picture). Everything is super tight and there is no obvious place where I'm supposed to adjust the pressure. And my obvious question is where is the adjustment? Thanks :mug: Spunding Valve.jpg
 
That's the one I bought. I tried spinning the pull ring (since that is the only thing that moves) but no change in spring pressure. I think I wasn't turning it far enough because I thought it was just spinning, but when I continue to turn it I notice there are threads. I'll try it on a pressurized corny to see if this is correct. Thanks 🍻
 
Thanks Apache that did it, but setting the pressure is a bit finicky. I guess I'll set it to what I want on a fully pressurized keg then put it onto the fermenter. :yes:
 
The end piece that the pull ring shaft goes through should have a flat slot on either side of the shaft. You back that piece out to put less pressure on the spring. That's a big of a janky build but it should work OK.
 
I think I have that same unit. Answered above.

I also tried to make my own and failed.

After that, I've also kinda figured out you don't need a spunding valve. Well, you need a good spunding valve and dial in the temperature and pressure to be repeatable. If you want to hack it, just ferment dry and experiment with how much fermentables you put back in the keg. Can just go to the original joy of homebrewing, and put in half a cup of sugar into a keg. If it's overcarbonated, then release the blow off and/or pour more foamy beer until it hits the sweet spot for a few pints. Then when it's trending toward undercarbonated start with the CO2. No need to buy a spunding valve to at least play with keg conditioning.
 
I first started spunding with a valve very similar to those discussed. I quickly got frustrated with the inaccurate regulation and general leakiness, with pressure dropping after fermentation slowed. I used the same approach and many of the same parts, but used a Norgren relieve regulator (e.g. V07 miniature pressure relief valve, 1/4" PTF ports - V07-200-NNKA - Norgren). Defintely more expensive. I think much better result.
 
Amazon has the Blowtie plus the keg valve and the frequently bought together Push-In Fitting. This means you don't have to be frustrated figuring out how to connect the blowtie to your keg as here: Amazon.com: Duotight BlowTie 2 Diaphragm Spunding Valve w/Integrated Pressure Gauge (0-23 PSI) for Pressure Fermentation - KL15042: Kitchen & Dining

twd000 - thanks for recomending that Blowtie has a new version out with the gauge built in. I guess I'll actually dial in how much sugar needed to carbonate the keg to my preferred level for repeatability (vs just dumping in sugar and best guesstimate for how carbonated it will be ;) )
 
0 to 100 PSI is a bit too much IMHO, you run the risk of the adjustment being too sensitive and too coarse in the range that is useful for our purpose.
 
I had no idea what a spunding valve was when I got back into brewing last year. A guy on eBay (Trong) sent me his spunding valve to try out. Wow, the SPUNDit is THEE best spunding valve out there. Very precise. Trong designed and manufacturers them himself. Excellent customer service, he will actually call you with any questions you might have. If you're familiar with DrHans, he also highly recommends the SPUNDit.
 
I had a lot of woes with the all brass spunder, safe cracker job to adjust it and then seemed variable. Lost all the pressure once ferment over.

So I Put it on the shelf and bought the Duotight ( red one ) and that's been good.
Recently needed two brews spunding at the same time so got the brass one back in action. This time fermenter was on bench and I noticed a small bubbling in one of the brass joints. Realised there was a tiny hole in the adapter collar so I tightened it and it then split and really leaked.
I've now replaced the broken part with a push in connector and tubing and it does hold pressure when ferment is finished, still requires the touch of a safe cracker though to tune it. It's my second choice spunder for sure.

IMG_20210318_101554.jpg
 
I had a lot of woes with the all brass spunder, safe cracker job to adjust it and then seemed variable. Lost all the pressure once ferment over.

So I Put it on the shelf and bought the Duotight ( red one ) and that's been good.
Recently needed two brews spunding at the same time so got the brass one back in action. This time fermenter was on bench and I noticed a small bubbling in one of the brass joints. Realised there was a tiny hole in the adapter collar so I tightened it and it then split and really leaked.
I've now replaced the broken part with a push in connector and tubing and it does hold pressure when ferment is finished, still requires the touch of a safe cracker though to tune it. It's my second choice spunder for sure.

View attachment 722614


If both brews can be set to the same pressure, you can share the Blowtie valve by using a tee fitting. That's what's I do on all my double batches.
 
If both brews can be set to the same pressure, you can share the Blowtie valve by using a tee fitting. That's what's I do on all my double batches.

Tricky as one brew for me in ferment fridge at 18 celsius and the other a kveik stout at 35 celsius about 5 yards away, so they weren't at same pressure as the cooler one needed less psi to be carbed at the end of pressure ferment.
 
I had no idea what a spunding valve was when I got back into brewing last year. A guy on eBay (Trong) sent me his spunding valve to try out. Wow, the SPUNDit is THEE best spunding valve out there. Very precise.

I don't know that I would call it very precise. I have many spunding valves, most of which I built. But I bought a Spundit recently out of curiosity. I use spunding valves in place of an airlock, and maintain 1-2 gauge PSI during fermentation. The gauge on my Spundit doesn't register anything at all at 1-2 PSI (as confirmed by a very accurate low pressure gauge). It's probably fine for higher pressures, and I can still use it, because the apparatus on my conical that feeds the spunding valve has its own gauge. But I'd hazard a guess that most setups don't.
 
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